coastline taxis

Should be on the ecu itself

Sounds like youve had the gasket replaced on the fuel pressure regulator on the back of the pump replaced 20 mins maximum plus the price of the gasket. But like iannez says at least the jobs done

When you change the oil its not a full oil change it gets as the oil in the torque converter dosnt drain out. So in a ideal world you need to drain the oil again. If there was improvement after the first oil change then i would change it again. to check for the correct level the oil needs to be at a certain temperature. If the box has been changed then im fairly certain the the pedal need to be timed up with the box (theres a proper term for it but i cant remember what its called pedal instalation or something like that) Anyway without it youl get faults with the box changing gear.If it was done by the dealer then they will have done this if not fitted by the dealer then i douubt it would of been done. Hydraulic locks i think there about 10 of them on the box so youl need a specalist to sort out which one it is. The next bit is just whats going through me head and im not saying its the answer to your problem. when you first start car up the oil in the box is cold and thick then you drive the car and the fault comes on then you clear the fault and the car runs fine (now the oil has warmed up a bit and thinned out. When you use the kickdown your relying on the oil again to change the gears for you. So if the correct level isnt acheived then the box wont work properly either Do you know why the original box was replaced. Also pretty sure theres a filter that needs cleaning on the box. Im back to work on tuesday so il dig out what weve got on auto boxes and let you know but mind it will be very limited as auto boxes is something we avoid like the plague as there just to much of a specilist job

Hello again just a couple of questions i forgot to ask you on the phone when the oil came out was it black and smelling also has the box been taken out at all or had a replacement if so was it fitted by a dealer or not and finally is there any judder on the drive All the best to All

It will be the routing of the belt. most of them now are unbeliveable they way they go on sometimes easier to go on the krypton factor than put a belt on ha ha

Got to raise this question now. Does it still need a new alternator.?. With the ribs in the belt gone it would still turn the alternator but not fast enough for to charge it

Did that inlude a new timing belt and water pump in with the price as the beltl hast to come of to do the job if so then that is a cracking price. The torx bolts leaking from wouldnt hapen to be the two that hold the regulator onto the back of the pump

Did you ever get this problem sorted out

Yep 1 new blower motor ( well second hand new).

Spot on ian job done Cheers and have a good xmas

What fuel ststem is on the car. Just had something similar to this and it turnrd out to be injectors. Was a 55 plate c5 45k 2 litre hdi. But as random has pointed get a few things checked first as some of what hes listed wont throw up a fault code. If you trust your dealer let one of the mechanics use the car for a few days with the scanner plugged in that way when it happens theyl have some data to work with

Ok nice and simple the fuse for the heater fan keeps melting by that i mean the fuse continues to but the plastic that encases it melts any body got any ideas

Think that the pollution fault will be due to running out of diesel also very suprised it didnt throw up a low rail pressure fault. Running out of fuel dosnt help the high pressure pump either as that is also lubricated by diesel aswell and that one is expensive

When youve disconected the battery you have done a reset of the bsi unit ( buisness systems interface) and certain procedures need to be followed to do it properly then the car needs to go for a drive drive so the adaptive driving can do its thing. Do a search for bsi reset and follow what it says and you should be ok. Also by letting your tank get that low your not doing yourself any favours as the intank pump is lubricated by the diesel so no diesel means no lubrication and youl do your pump in. never go under a quarter tank

one nill to the dealer i would think. Maybe a trip to the indie to discuss a refund

Been told this one before but sorry i just cant remember how to. How do you upload a photo onto the site. Got something that came in for repair last week and youve just got to see it

Without standing over the engine it Could be anything loose so would start by checking everything under engine bay is secure also heat shield on exhaust and the ***oops*** tray underneath. just a daft one but does it go off when you press the clutch

So just a quick recap The dealer first told you that it needed a pump. You took it to a indy and replaced a different part now the dealer is still saying you need a pump or have i got it wrong Is yours a estate model by any chance

So just a quick recap The dealer first told you that it needed a pump. You took it to a indy and replaced a different part now the dealer is still saying you need a pump or have i got it wrong Is yours a estate model by any chance

passenger side mirror on the bottom of the casing youl see it . Not realy worth the effort of fixing it. easier to put the window down then youl soon no wether its hot or cold outside

When the car came back from getn the hieght adjuster done was it all workin ok

Dont dislike them they are briliant for the taxi trade bags of power and very economical. The down side that puts me off is the cost of the particle filter when they have to be replaced as i just cant see the point of having it on the car yes it catches harmfull particles in the filter. Then it does a regeneration and burns it all off and pumps the fumes out of the exhaust into the enviroment its trying to save or when the filter has to be replaced the old one is probaly buried in a landfill site. But im going to have to accept them soon as there creeping into most cars now. other than that there great. And yep the bearings are dealer parts only. What milage is on yours as weve only done 1 in 5 years as they just dont seem to go Now ive no doubt that im wrong somewhere over the filter and await the wrath of the planet savers

Would think it would be around a thoushand plus fitting. have a word and see if they would fit a second hand one that you could supply from scrappy obviosly you wouldnt get a waranty of the dealers for the scrappy part. But dont be offended if they say no

Jack up the rear of the car, remove rear wheels, and place axle stands under the rear suspension beam. Place suspension in the LOW position to remove suspension pressure. Ensure all pressure is gone from rear suspension before further dismantling. Undo rear caliper (2 x 17mm bolts) and unclip brake pipe from arm. Tie caliper out of the way in order that brake pipe is not damaged. (Do not remove or loosen the long 8mm nut and bolt that holds that pads in, leaving this in place will prevent caliper from leaking fluid) Remove U-clip that secures rear suspension arm pin to arm using pliers. Pull the long metal rod from the suspension cylinder back, keeping it inside the rubber gaiter. Undo the 2 x 13mm bolts securing anti roll bar to the arm. Using long bar/rachet, undo the 24mm nut and bolt securing the arm. Remove the arm from car. Mount arm in vice. Using suitable socket (I used a long 14mm socket) and hammer, knock through the metal spacer tube.. The remains of the arm seals, bearing cage and spacers usually fall out, if not prise them out with a pry bar or large screwdriver.. Remove the pivot protector (plastic inner tube) . (sometime they come out easily, othertimes you have to resort to bashing them out) Knock off the bearing outer-ring using something like a hard metal pipe or drift. If it does not shift I suggest Mig welding round the remains of the bearing collar inside the arm. If you do not have a welder, clean carefully inside the arm with WD40, sandpaper, then attempt to hit them out once you can see where they are. Clean inside arm with oil and a cloth, ensuring all dirt and rust is removed. Lightly grease inside the arm. Insert new arm bearing shells at both ends, greasing them thinly and tap into place using 24mm socket and hammer. Fit and grease new bearings. Assemble the metal spacer tube and roller-bearing, plus the oil seal thrust bush at one side. Don't forget to insert the shim (See diagram, 514327) between bearing and thrust bush. Fit this part to the outer side of rear arm. Then fully grease the new bearings. Fill plastic spacer tube with oil/grease. Insert half assembled spacer and bearing into arm, and build up the bearing, seal etc on the other side. Refitting the rebuilt rear arm in reverse procedure to dismantling. 13kgf/m is the suggested torque for the 24mm bolt. Don't forget to bleed the rear brakes if you have split the rear caliper If your not sure put it into garage and go on the drink for the day safe in the knowledge that the car will be done once the hangover has gone

Easy one to fix this one . Get the new pump like the dealer said and put it on job done