coastline taxis

Its nothing to do with citroen but it was lovley to do. Done a timing belt on a 1980 mark 4 cortina today with a 1600 pinto engine in it. 35 minites in total and loads of room to work on it cost of timming belt was £8 yes £8 3x10 mm bolts and your at the belt. Couldnt help wondering how far weve come with cars and wether its for the better or not. as this car was as quiet as a mouse and the owner says hes getting 30 to the gallon. It got me thinking about somthing i heard somewhere it was "if everyday is the same and nothing changes how come when you look back everything has changed". Well thats the end of me rambling

Remember years ago a fault like this and it turned out to be the handbrake switch just cant remember if it was a c5 or a pug 406.

ok Pm me where you want them posting to and il get it done today cheers

can you check to see if your wires go straight into airbag or have they got a multiplug at both ends

Sensor in the tyres either not there or knackered. Easier to get the dealer to just switch the system of as youl sharp know when youve got a puncture

When the airbag fault comes on people think that the bag is likley to go off anytime it likes when driving, What it is realy saying is that in the event of a accident the the airbag saftey system might not deploy. What wires is it that have been damaged and what colour are they as we might have some lying around

behind the dashboard more or less behind the stereo area

Would you realy like to chance it, easier to just give the engine a good work out with the acelerator pedel and safer

183 ENGINE FILLING AND BLEEDING THE COOLING CIRCUIT C5 TOOLS [1] Filling cylinder : 4520-T [2] Adaptor for filling cylinder : 4222-T. ESSENTIAL : Respect the safety and cleanliness recommendations. - The draining and refilling operations can be carried out by means of a WINN’S coolant replacement apparatus or similar; it is essential to follow the instructions when using this apparatus. Filling and bleeding - Fit the cylinder adaptor [2] 4222-T and the filling cylinder [1] 4520 -T. - Use the coolant to ensure protection between - 15°C and - 37°C. - Slowly fill the system. NOTE : Keep the cylinder filled up (visible level). - Close each bleed screw as soon as the coolant flows without air bubbles. - Start the engine : Engine speed 1500 rpm. - Maintain this speed until the third cooling cycle (cooling fans have cut in and cut out). - Stop the engine and allow it to cool down. - Remove the filling cylinder [1] 4520-T and the adaptor [2] 4222-T. - Top up the system to the maximum mark, with the engine cold. - Refit the filler cap. B1GP00AC E5AP1GNC

The drain plug will be on the bottom on the rad but taking the hose of like milkey says is just as effective Will post the correct bleeding sequence on here for you

If you look at the bottom of the radiator youl seee a drain plug just put your hand down from the top and slacken it and it will drain the hole system without having to remove the undertray and the cooling fan needs to cut in 3 times

have you put the wire mechanism in correctly. disconect window wiring from main harness and run a live and earth to it to see that it works ok. If it works both ways then its sounds like a broken wire in the harness check the wire between the door and the main car frame

Anychance you could say that again 72dudes as i didnt quite get it the 7th time round ha ha

Finally got to the bottom of this The fault was actually found by pure chance and show the lengths some mechanics will go to for a few bucks. We run and rent out c5s as taxis and as a result have over the years ended up doing repairs on most of the c5s in our area anyway this one was a new customer to us and has full service history and new timing belt 6 months ago. So having to admit defeat and just about to book the car into town center citroen as theyve never let us down in finding the problem when we couldnt, Anyway asked a driver to move the car for us as we were covered in oil so when the driver got out he pointed out that the acelarator pedal didnt seem right compared to the ones he drives for us so we pulled the whole pedal off and half way down the metal rod it had been heated up and bent. Anyway to cut a long story short the lad who has been doing the owners repairs had sorted the emmisions failure out by heating the pedal up with welding gear and bent the pedal down so it would only go to 1500 rpm so as to reduce the emmisions and pass the test. After talking to owner the recent timming belt replacement was just the belt (no tensioners,guides,or water pump) and the full service he has is all done by a d.i.y stamper kit the mechanic got from Adi. Funny though it did pass its test

what readings should i be looking for on the volt meter

Have already checked the maf (swapped with a good one) and had the cable off. sorry for not making this clear in first post

Ok car is showing no fault codes at all. engine is first time starter and sounds as sweet as a nut and runs nice and smooth. its got full service history and timming belt was changed 6 months ago so the fault is not timming related. Now for the fault the car wont rev over 1500rpm so it not in limp mode and drives very responsive up to 1500 then nothing. No smoke out of exhaust or leaky pipes and all wirring intact and secure. Like ive said a few times im still learning all the time with the diagnostic so is it possible for there to be a fault and not show up on the scanner or is that just not possible if so any ideas

saab send all available bits

We use a variety of places for our part and have recently found the following parts for a c5 to be very resonable low pressure pump £147 front caliper £71 And theese are all new parts with warranty anybody need them message me and il give you the number

F I A T FIX IT AGAIN TOMORROW

Hear what your sayin 55 plate vivaro we look after heres the list 1 high pressure diesel pump 4 injectors 1 set of new fuel lines and tank clean out 1 gearbox overhaul 3 sets of gear cables 1 clutch slave cylinder 1 clutch master cylinder 1 secondhand gearbox (yes thats right its second one) 4 fuel filter housing brackets and the mileage is 97K aparentley these vans eat gearboxes and the pumps on them just destroy themselves and the injectors on a regular basis. Total bill was over 4 grand makes a fap filter change peanuts

maybe a good idea to remove the child lock

I stand corrected. Also im assuming that the difference in the caps will be on the inside and would hope that it has some kind of seal in it. You should send a email to techbod as he just loves storys of dealers and will probally go and burn them down for you ha ha

there is no valve inside of it so if you use a matal cap onto a metal casing chanches are youl get a leak as metal to metal dosnt seal so your stuck with the plastic one. also theres the corrosion issue with the cap seizing on

The steel wire your on about is actually the window mechanism once its removed youl find that your motor will work both way. ok mnow down to nitty gritty. remove door panel Window mechanisn is £60ish from dealers if memory serves. window mech and motor is riveted in place so youl need a drill to get them. its pretty straight forward as the window bolts onto the top of the mech so dosnt need to be removed (just held up) romove the mechanism and replace with new one then rivet back in place dont be tempted to use speed fastners or screws as with the shutting of the door they come loose in a few weeks and you have to do the job again and that is speaking from experience/ box the door up and job done