coastline taxis

Sounds like your clutch is slipping

Youve got a single line display screen you need a multiline screen for all the other stuff

take the ashtray out and on the side of it youl see a spring you need to line that up with the ashtray holder built into the dash. Very fiddly and a proper pain to get right

Ok from memory as its a long time since i worked on a petrol. Im sure theres no in line filter its actually in the tank. lift up the back seat and pull of the black curcular peace of plastic.underneath it Youl see the pump kept in place by a circular plastic ring just unscrew and lift the pump owt and on the bottom of it youl see a gauze filter. like i say only from memory

Good luck with your new car then. but youl still have advice and experience to give othere so dont be a stranger to the site

What size engine is it 1.8 2 or 3 litre

Must have missed your original post so what parts you waiting for

If the traffic master is getting on your tits. Remove the glove box and look straght a head and youl see a black box just unplug it and thats the traff/master off. If you want it back on just plug it back in and its sbout £5o ish a year for the trafic master licence

Youve probally got the single line display unit. And will need to swap it to multi line to get them functions workings very easy upgrade to do

Hi is it petrol diesel. what size engine. year/model/milage. The emisions warning light is it saying anti pollution fault

The thread although slow is still ongoing with a couple of solutions so to speak. We had this problem a few years and it turned out to be a diode thing on the radio when it warmed up the display went down so maybe in your case the diode might be gone altogether. Im asuming youve checked the wiring to make sure youve got pover to the screen also all your fuses etc etc. Did it just go off over night or was it intermitant. Is there any other electrical faults the more info you post then the more likley you are to get it resolved

Have you checked the maxi fuses on the side of the fuse box in the engine bay in fact get a multi meter and do a continuity test on all the fuses in the enginge bay. Also was the key in the ignition when your put the battery on if so try resyncronising the key ( put key in ignition barrel put ignition on and keep button 2 on key fob pressed for 10 seconds). If the indy your usiing has the right diagnostic tool he should be able to tell you wether the imobiliser is active or not.

If you look at your caliber youl see at the top and bottom of the caliper there is what looks like rubber bellows (slide mounts). theres a 17mm nut at the end of the bellows secure this whith a spanner (open ended) right next to it youl see a 13mm bolt remove this bolt both top and bottom ones and your caliper will lift away ( if not lever it off with prybar)leaving your pads in place. Easy job enjoy it

If you do a search youl find a ongoing thread for this fault

Hi could you explain a bit better year/model/year is it a rear wiper or the fronts that way youl get all the help you need on hear

What do you mean by Rear load lights

No code numbers present at all just says micro dot power drop out. Have been told that its a possible injector ecu software update needed. Any thoughts. Its not a problem as such because the cars come in once a week to get checked over so we just plug it in. its more curiosity and the need to no

c5 2litre hdi 240k Car runs perfect and just what ive come to expect from a c5. Any way got a daft niggle with this one once a week the car puts the light on and goes into limp mode so plug it in and get the following " Micro dot power drop out" Go to clear it and it says its permanent and cant be cleared so unplug the scanner and hey presto the light is of and full power back. so plug it straight back in and it now says no codes present and car runs fine for another week Being doing diagnostics for a couple of years now so ive got a good grasp espically with c5s but struggling with this one Any ideas

Just had a quick check and its the anti roll bar thats colour coded not the axle. Give it a go its a fairly straight forward job

Go for it if you split a suspension pipe then just repair it fill up the fluid and the car will sort itself out. Its a bit more thasn 4 bolts mind. just from memory Exhaust off anti roll bar disconected all pipes off/moved out of way battery disconected. Also something about the axle colour sure its blue for a saloon car and green for a estate will check monday for you

In the abcense of water in the diesel (i assune hes checked) and with the fault only coming on after squirting water in the engine bay. Take the key out remove each multiplug to each and every sensor one at a time and squirt the lot with loads of wd40 (water displacement) reconect and try the car

Where they easy to change Anychance you could give a right up on hear sthat we could print it off and keep for future reference. Also well done Steve

Hi sorry for the delay. pm me your adress and ill pop it in the post for you cheers

Or you can use a 3/8th extension bar as it fits perfecy into the slot then use a ratchet to decide which way to turn the piston

never come across any faults with driveshaft other than when people replace the outer cv joint (Which is available seperate £50ish) they find the circlip a bit tricky and leave it off causing complications later on when removinng a hub. The shaft sits into the inner cv joint which has a recess of some 2 or 3 inches which allows the shaft to slide in and out when cornering