coastline taxis

Hi anyone know if the rev counter on a relay comes of the alternator its a 2.5 diesel 02 reg. as the one on my minibus has went of. there are no other faults with the bus.

If you stand in front of the engine youve got the alternator on your left now look to the right of the coil pack and youl see two rubber hoses comming from the thermostat going toward the bulk head on the left hand hose at the elbow where it goes into heater matrix youl see the bleed nipple. and the rad hose bleed nipple the one youve described. Might i suggest you let car stand overnight then open these screws when engine is cold so your a bit familiar with them as when hot its a high pressure system that could scald you badly. Then once your confident with them do it when hot

Think youl find that you need to plug car in to switch the service light off. has it just come on or has it been on since you serviced it or did the service interval bring it on

try the bosal website

hi if you look at the back of the engine where it mates with the gearbox you will see 2 black rubber pipes going toward the bulkhead of the car(towards the dashboard) where they disapear into the bulkhead the left hand side one has what appears to be a dust cap on it. unscrew this till its just water comming out then retighten. making sure that the header tank is kept full all the time Next one is on the top hose that comes from the radiator and goes to the thermostate this one just looks like a black plastic screw in the pipe again slacken till just water then tighten' now check water level is up to max and replace the cap fire engine up and allow to idle till the cooling fan has cut in and out 3 times. then slacken the bleed screw on radiator hose and any air left in system will come out. never never never open the back bleeder on a hot engine system is now bled

yes cat is on the main pipe got one last month. Its a bosal exhaust ordered through local discount store and 170 complete exhaust with new clamps.

hi there did you by any chance buy this car of ebay and what code reader are you using

hi did you buy this car of ebay by any chance

you really dont want to be placing 12v wires onto c5 components as a lot of them are lower than 12v and youl blow them. the diesel system on a c5 is very high pressure system so if your not a 100% certain of what your doing then put the car in for a diagnostic (it will work out cheaper in the long run). There could be any number of reason why the fuel pump isnt working and without the right tools itl just be pure luck if you find it

hi is it a circular type with a 4 pronged key to get it off

Just notice that youve changed thermostat how did you bleed the system as they have to be done properly top system up with water Then go to where the heater hose goes through through the bulkhead to the matrix youl see a bleed screw open it till all water comes out. then go to the top hose that comes from the radiator in that order then open that the bleed screw till water comes out. Now start engine up and let it run wait until the cooling fan has done 3 cycles (switched on and off ) then open the bleed screw on the top radiator hose a little bit to let any air out once its all water coming out close it. NEVER NEVER OPEN THE MATRIX ONE AS ITL BLOW ALL OVER WHEN HOT

Hi have you had anything done to the cooling system recently or drained it to put any antifreeze or summer coolant in as c5 have to be bled properly. is it using any oil and whats the milage on it

What we have found very effective on the wind back piston rather than buy the tool is to get a piece of metal 1 inch by 1inch by 9 inches. we then drilled holes into it. then screw self tapping screws into the bar so they match up to the groves into the piston you need to wind back and there you go it save you 20 quid

Your right there. anyway has anybody got any experience with the ELM327 as the missus has just got me one of ebay. Ive already got a snapon ethos and it does the job fine. Elm 1 what does it do (dont say it reads codes ) 2 Are they any good 3 how reliable are they 4 How do i get the bloody thing on my pc

1 x 13mm spanner 1 x 17mm spanner 1 tin brake cleaner little bit of vaseline 1 wind back tool or pair of grip or improvise 1 set of pads Its fairly straight forward remove wheel youl see 2 wires going to your brake pads unplug these.Youl now see 2 x 13mm bolts on the side of the caliper that faces engine/box The straight behind them youl see a 17mm nut put a spanner on that then unscrew 13 mm bolts. pull caliper away from wheel and remove brake pads. Now get tin of brake cleaner and spray inside of caliper also wire brush caliper but take it easy on the rubber dust sleeve then another squirt of brake cleaner now get a bit vaseline and rub it into dust cover. now get your wind back tool and wind the piston back into the caliper put your new pads in and replace caliper dont forget to replace the wear inicator wires then squirt it all down with brake cleaner. (If youve went for the cheaper pads youl have to put some cooper slip on the back of them or theyl squeal) Should take about 20 mins a side

Anybody want to see my 200 yard swimming certificate

Hi its a real easy fix. the surround just pulls out although it seems tight it does come of u then have 2 torx bits either side od the display undo these then the unit just pulls out undo multi plug on the bag and thats it all done.like i say the plastic surround is a pain but does come of the clips that hold it are level with the buttons on both sides of the display

Sounds like youve got a air leak. always start with the cheapest solution first

Hi i take it that youve got no fault codes showing up.Id probally start by changing the fuel filter then checking all the pipes to the turbo and all the clips securing them even taken them off one by one and checking for blockages by blowing thru them. think if it was your egr valve the car would through up a anti pollution fault. Does the same happen when reving the engine or just under load

Ive no doubt that the people on here could suggest a few places where the leak is comming from.but it would probally be wrong as they havnt got a clue what kind of engine you have . Coz you havnt put it in the question

Problem solved had just had the scanner updated of snapon (from 7.2 to 8.2 ) and it turns out that it was a software issue with the scanner. reloaded the software again today and now no problem showing with the sensors at all. The tick over has now sorted itself out can only assume that the valve needed a bit more time to seal themselves up. Anyway its running perfect now so all is well with the world.

Have had this problem a few times and an easy fix is as follows 1 cut the return pipe in half 2 The piece of pipe that you have in your hand you now shove onto the metal pipe the that comes out of the strut 3 take 3 to 4 inches of brake piping and conect it to the 2 rubber ends. 4 use 3 zip fastners and put 1 on the end of each piece of rubber piping its a common enogh problem but replacing the pipe does not stop it from happening again as everytime you raise the suspension you put strain on them as there just not long enough so by extend them the cause is cured and you dont have to worry about bleeding the system just drive car and it does it itself

we had a customer who had the same problem Wouldnt start when hot unless it was cranked over and over) and it eventualy turned out to be the crankshaft sensor unit. we were fortunate enough to have a car sitting there so that we could swap sensors over without having to buy them first so swapped crank sensor over and car now starts first time everytime

we had a customer who had the same problem Wouldnt start when hot unless it was cranked over and over) and it eventualy turned out to be the crankshaft sensor unit. we were fortunate enough to have a car sitting there so that we could swap sensors over without having to buy them first so swapped crank sensor over and car now starts first time everytime

Ive got a y,51,52,52,54 reg and they all plug in no bother .