coastline taxis

What model is it

im sure ive seen on this forum that one of the members has a alfa and was wondering if they could give me a bit of advice on a one were working on. its a 156 1.8 basicly just want to know what the story is with the spark plugs being 2 different sizes. If they could pm me so as to keep it of the forum it would be apreciated many thanks steve

Hi if you look at the bottom of the windscreen on the passenger side youl see a series of nunbers and letters. On the top line about 5 or six numbers in youl get 3 letters thats your engine code itl be something like rlz or rfn

if you look at yuor intake manifold on the right of it youl see a chromed dome object with a grey multi connector going into it thats it

ok so the sensors just report that there is a fault in the area that they monitor and if that fault isnt strong enough then it wont show a fault code. so try cleaning throttle and crank Thanks

Hi snapon ethos scanner works fine on them and does abs/suspension/auto and manual box/trouble codes etc etc. Ive had mine on a 2000 model up to a 2007 model with no probs at all Also got one of the Elm units of ebay and there shite dont waste your money

Hi got a 02 2.5 non turbo myself converted to minibus so most of the time its running round with 9 people in it. And on a good day itl do 25 to the gallon but cant fault it in anyother way mind 340k on the clock and very reliable no rattles or bangs and still got the original wheel bearings in

Hi after having to be dragged kicking and screaming into the world of car diagnostic in order to keep up with modern cars im really getting into it now and find the scanner an important tool. However im still learning so what i want to know is can a sensor malfunction and not show up as a trouble code or does that just not happen. The reason im asking is that the car mentioned above shows no codes or faults at all yet when taking out on the road it keeps giving all the symptons of an air mass fault loss of of power and fluffy tick over. vacum pipes/air intake pipes/turbo/timming/egr valve all checked and fine. So swapped over to live data and taking out onto road all injectors have equal pressure and all other data is normal as we compared it to a one that i own after doing live data on that one and comparing it. The loss of power isnt dramatic it just wont go over 70 and the tickover goes fro 700 rpm down to 600 rpm but dosent cut out.

Hi Are you able to extend the cable as you could go along the chassis or under the heat shields and up through the inspection cover for the fuel tank under the back seat. Just make sur its secure and insulated and kept away from other wires. If its live then consider putting it inside a piece of plastic tubing and silicone both ends

Hi gs We have heated them in the past and had no problem at all in doing so. Obviosly pointing the torch away from the caliper and we normally put copper slip on. However since reading the advice on this forum we have been making gasket out of heavy duty black bags and using that instead of the copper slip. Also just squrting wd into the holes will have very little effect as it wont affect the locktite squirt brake cleaner/thinners/easy start in every 20 mins for a hour then the wd. If you havent got heat the turn the bolt out half a turn squirt it with wd then tighten it and just keep working the bolt back and forth with plenty of wd and it will come out.

To be honest weve never took the bolt fully out yet we always just give them four or five turns and the caliper just comes away(after having removed the pads and take the 2 grub screws out of the disc). We then move caliper to one side and sand down with the drill. Now dont ask me why but everyone that weve put back together has went straight away by locating the bottom bolt in first we tried the top bolt first and its awkward and dosnt mary up so put bottom one in first

check the road tax as its emission related so if its zero emissions then the tax will be coppers.All diesels need a good workout as they are by nature a dirty engine and when just plodding round the doors the exhaust get filled with all the sooty deposited and give out smoke when you rev them. While a fap/particulate filter will catch most of it there will always be some that gets through

You need a Italian tune up Take the car out for a good hard drive. I normally get mine up to 70 in 3rd gear and keep it there for a couple of mins if you look in your rear view mirror you should see all the built up crap in the exhaust coming away and blowing out as black smoke. Then i normally put a bottle of forte diesel treatment in with a quarter tank of fuel and they pass emissions first time Diesels are work horses and need a good run every now and then to give it a good clear out although with the current price of diesel everybody is driving for economy

Just a daft question but your not overfilling the expansion bottle are you.

you could always sell the car pm me and well see whats what as im after another 4 c5s

No its not just when removing the disc a very comming fault on the c5 is when the back brake caliper push out over onto the road wheel and start scraping it or you start having trouble getting the rear pad in.This is caused by whitchcraft happening where the alloy caliper mates up to metal. And if left unchecked it will cost you a new caliper. And to be honest weve never put threadlock on them yet

Yes 4 or 5 torxs screw and its of 2 on the door handle (the one you use to close the door) 1 in the door handle (the one you use for opening the door 1 on the side of the door pull the speaker cover off youl find 4 there then 2 under the speaker unplug the wires and your done

Yes remove the front door panel and apply grease to the runners and the cables that operate the window especialy the corner rollers that the cable runs round. Not a heavy grease mind and plenty of it

just above the starter motor there is a hole insert a timming pin or a 8mm drill bit into it then turn engine over by hand untill you feel the bit lock into flywheel. then remove the cener bolt from the pulley and prise the pulley away from the end fo the crank then put the new pully in its place and put fan belt on and remove the drill bit and your done. check with the dealers as im sure your supposed to replace the bolt aswell if not put loctite on the old one when refiting it

when trying to remove a rear brake caliper the 2 securing bolts are absolute pigs to get out. Now if you look at the front of the caliper (where you slot the pads in) youl see a circle in each corner scrape all the crap out of it then squirt brake cleaner in then wd40 using the straw that comes with it to get right in. These holes go straight onto the bolts that hold the caliper on. Now undo the 2 torx screw that hold the disc on and by the time youve done that the wd 40 has performed its magic and the result is the caliper comes of no problem at all. Takes us 30 mins a side now

£100 for bulbs sounds a lot but im sure they come with a couple of years garantee. So it dosnt work out all that bad. Its all down to build quality with the cheaper bulbs not lasting as long

Its for the red light option that go on the bottom of the doors so that other cars no the door is open. And if you check them youl see there live so if you want a cheap upgrade just add the lights

Its all sorted now up and running turned out to be a fuse it had a hairline crack in it so when you looked at it you couldnt tell.

2.o litre hpi Wouldnt start showing nothing on plug in and no loose wires and no fuel comming from the tank. Checked the pump etc etc and all seemed fine and still wouldnt start so wee had to admit defeat and OH MY GOD go to the main dealer. so a quick call to nigel at town center citroen and the car was on its way to the dealers. Well 36 hours later and the car was up and running now the bill so its had a diagnostic and a mechanic on it for a day and a half. So by what ive read on hear about the dealers id aranged a second mortgage of the bank well i got the bill £41.20p Yes £41.20p Turns out it was a fuse that had a hairline crack at the bottom of it you needed a magnifying glass to see it it realy was that hard to see. So it was back to our garage and everyone getting stuck into the work experience lad we have working with us as he got the job of checking the fuses the first time round although he or any of us wouldnt of noticed it as the fuse still looks complete. But hey £41.20p for a diagnostic a mechanic a day and a half and a fixed car.To be honest its less than what we would of charged So the dealers arnt all that bad

Car was running fine then just stopped towed in and plugged in no faults showing up Just wont start. starting checkings things and theres no fuel comming out of tank through the fuel lines so thats why it wont start and yes theres fuel in the tank and theres power going to the 1 of the 4 wires that go into the tank Now what i need to no is 1 does this model have a pump in the tank 2 Any common faults on these pumps 3 should the pump in tank ( if fitted ) start to prime when ignition is turned on 4 Should the power going to the tank be on permenant thanks steve p.s i still love these c5