Randombloke

Can you see a leak? Has the slave cylinder failed? Are the seals on the master cylinder badly damaged? If the level has dropped it sounds like a leak. I would try pumping the clutch seriously and seeing if I could get it to disengage. I would make 100% sure that the hydraulic side was working before suspecting the clutch itself.

All Citroen cars with hydraulic suspension self level AFAIK, unless they are broken. The only C5s without hydraulic are some of the base to middle models on the latest shape. If you car has H3+ then the lights will need to readjust when the suspension goes into sport mode. Has your car got a sport mode button? If not, it's H3. If it has, then it's H3+. I'd go for the WD40 squirts on the height sensors. Then let it soak and put the car through the full range of heights whilst stationary, but if the height correctors are sticky be warned that the car could then stick in a high or low suspension position. I would also consider disconnecting the auto adjusters for the headlights if it's H3+, but I would be very wary of fiddling around near the back of a Xenon headlight. HTH.

What about Citroen/Peugeot Diesel before 2004? 2001 is the mandatory date for EOBD for petrol, and 2004 for diesel.

There is probably one connector that is still off but you haven't spotted it. All I can suggest is that you get a can of contact cleaner and another of compressed air and work round all the connectors you removed one by one. Check they are clean and properly fastened. Check also that the link rod to the swirl control valve has not come loose.

Wastegate surely? Or does the C5 have a Richard Nixon based problem with illegal bugging?

Swirl chamber control valve gives and error message. Has MAP sensor been disconnected or is there cr*p all over the MAF (mass airflow) sensor in the air ducting. MAF sensor is easy to check on 2.2 - 2 screws and you can have a look. Don't touch it though, use compressed air or spray solvent to clean it. MAF sensor easy to spot - near battery in big air hose with some wires on a connector.

I have found that SANEF (alone in all the motorway companies) will sort you out a Telepéage badge which they will accept a UK based credit card to pay for. In July the queues for the péage can it make it worth it - surcharge for my tariff is €2 for every month in which I use it. Bought from the SANEF office at the beginning of the A16 just South of Boulogne.

Having had a few friends who have moved RHD cars out to the continent and registered them in France, I'm almost sure that you will not get a Controle Technic with lights fitted with stickers. So in order to register it in France and pass the CT, you'll need to swap out if they are standard lights, IMV. Of course, if you intend to stay on Brit plates, not a problem. The issue of tax and MOT will be a pain, and in France there is CT every 2 years and no tax. Also, a UK spec car will be cheaper but have almost no resale value. Continental prices are partly higher because cars do not do the enormous mileages they do in this country on company duty or mega commutes. RHD in Europe is a pain in the a**e when you drive alone at every car park and toll booth. Hate it with a vengeance, which is why I use a LHD French registered 1989 Corsa in France most of the time.

Have look at this thread: C5 annoyances specific to second hand cars Also, you might be able to get the more powerful (138bhp) 16 valve engine or a six speed box, but unlikely. Check also that all the central locking works, common fault that one or more doors stick locked or do not open. There is a rear screen fix available here for free or on eBay for £14.99. It's worth making sure that the car has a battery in top condition, either before buying or after by swapping it out. If fuel economy is poor initially, make sure that the car is not suffering from brake drag.

Seen 3 busted belts on 2.2s between 90 and 100k. 2.0 not so sure. Depends on whether yours is 8/16 valve, but given the track record of the engines, unless you intend to have the car at 180k I'd do it sooner rather than later. As old'uns said, if in doubt..... If you car does not get written off by the broken belt, the same garages that gave you advice will be handing you a big bill, whilst rubbing their hands together. Have a look on this forum for the thread about the C8 with the broken belt, written by user Pam C8.

Does your car have sport mode? If so it has H3+ and it might be something to do with the car dropping the ride height at the front and rear different amounts when going over 68mph. The light levellers are supposed to correct for this but maybe they are not.....

Rough idea of where you are could give a good recommendation as the where to go for a look and a quote....

IIRC they only warn you when the pressure drops below 1.7 bar (ish). Usually the spare does not have a reporting valve. iannez is right, if the sensor was damaged and giving warnings a dealer/indy could have quoted £125 for a new valve sensor, or £25-40 to connect up the laptop and deactivate the reporting valves..... Also, the car needs to run for a small amount of time with a low tyre pressure?

Sounds like the there is a small air leak and fuel is draining back into the tank. Does the problem go away if you hand prime the pump before starting in the morning, if indeed there is a hand primer on the C5? (Haven't looked) I seem to remember both Coastline and iannez made suggestions about this sort of problem before. One problem was that the pump was leaking from some seals. iannez has posted that the preheat will only work well below freezing (-5C IIRC). Unlikely to be a preheat problem. You'll need to use the search function.

Thanks for this info, it is what I need to complete the repair to my car. Will remove the wiper arm with your tip and replace it in the near future. Cheers.

BBA Reman were listing the pump, you have to call for a price. BBA Reman C5 pump

Please search the forum, the answer was posted/linked to only the day before yesterday: Estate - Glass Part Of Tailgate Opens At Random, Intermittent fault - always a pain You will need to be logged in to see the pictures.

I was able to get the wires off the microswitch by removing the plastic cover on the inside of the rear screen then disconnecting them - there is a connector there. No need to remove the tailgate inner panel. This does not work if the boot is already full to the level of the sliding cover. With harnesses and stuff in the boot, the rear screen opening is invaluable, so I can put a small item in the boot without everything sliding out.

Hi there, Just to save our man Coastline from more typing he played a blinder here, please have a quick read: Suspension Raising - Different Problem, C5 Suspension problem

Hi Steve, Have you checked this site? PSA Fault codes It says P1135 Pedal position sensor circuit A Intermittent I'm not sure how accurate it is.

Here is the information: Estate - Glass Part Of Tailgate Opens At Random, Intermittent fault - always a pain

The thread with the info you require is here: Sat Nav Rt2 - Early C5 <-2004, Need a link The maps can be bought second hand on eBay very cheaply. What you pay for the upgrade is up to you but it is nothing more than a CD and 10 minutes with the engine running watching it upgrade the software. £250? Check that thread.

What model is your C5? Facelift? Looks to me like Mk 2 is 2004 at the earliest. Is it the later and more powerful 2.0, DW10BTED? 6 speed box? Or is it a 2.2? How do you turn off the sensors?

I think the length of this belt on the later XU engines makes it problematic, I've had to replace the belt twice in 50,000 miles. Both times the tensioner and the pulleys have had to be replaced. Mine is the 2.1TD in a 406 but the long belt run for this and the 1.9TD are similar, in the Xantia there is no power steering or vacuum pump as that comes off the main hydraulic pump. If the belt frays and breaks it can get under the cam belt at the crank pulley end with disastrous consequences. I would suspect that the tensioner (and possible the pulleys too) is tired. I'd replace the tensioner and the belt........ and the pulleys too if need be. If the fraying gets any worse you'll hear it when the engine is running as the loose end whips about. This was how I noticed mine was on the way out last time......

There is a sequence for disconnecting the battery that needs to be followed if everything is to work on reconnection. Have a look here: Battery Swap And Reset Have you started the car up, run it and then turned everything off just in case the car has gone into eco mode and that's what's killed the radio?