Randombloke

Check that the brakes are not binding. This is a problem with some C5s. I got my checked immediately after purchase. You can check this easily by raising the car to maximum height then it's just 2 turns on the jack at each wheel.

There are a large number of pictures, which some other members of this forum have found very helpful despite speaking or reading no French. Or wait for the Haynes manual. Don't hold your breath. :)

Click on this link for the results of the search that gives the answers to this often asked question.

According to the French manual the C5 has the ability to either intercool or warm the intake air. This what the extra pipework is for. The French manual IMV is worth getting.

When I turn the compressor off for the air con, the auto green light goes out but the fan speed still changes by itself, usually if I change the temperature demanded. I'll double check this when I next drive it. Check for turbo leaks and also check the the air mass flow sensor and manifold absolute pressure sensor wires are properly connected and secured. Failing that, simply check all wires to sensors are properly on. Might also be worth checking that the clip that takes up the slack in the throttle is not loose......

I do exactly this and mine works very well. Having turned the air con off the heat, auto vent selector and auto fan control still do the biz. I have also, as mentioned here by Dan, seen the auto be on but the compressor/air con turned off below about 4C. I suspect that there is a humidity detector. I do like the rapid demist and the fact that the C5 doesn't mist up in auto mode.

Some 2.2 MK1s are 75k miles. Mine is, and it's 2002. Checked via RPN.

I read that the H3+ drops the suspension 11mm at the rear, and 16 mm at the front above 110km/h to aid stability, which it does by creating more down force. It's the difference in drop between front and rear that makes the car act like a flat plate at an angle to the air stream, creating negative lift or down force. That extra down force will cause extra drag. If you now put a 20 ft HG on top of the car, you can see the drop in fuel economy by using the cruise control and setting 104/106/108/110/112/114 km/h in steps on a long run down to the Alps on the flatter sections of the French countryside. It's surprising how little over 110 you need to go to see the economy plummeting from about 7.5-7.7l/100km to well over 8 with an increase of some 5 to 10 km/h. I found that there is a "sweet spot" at about 67 mph, which I wondered about until I worked out that 67 mph=110km/h, roughly! If you have an H3+ car, try running it close to either side of this changeover mark. You'll see a jump in fuel consumption. It's not as bad as it gets with 2 hang gliders on the roof, but I think you'll see it.

Best I've ever had with a 5 speed 2.2 is about 46 mpg. This is cruising with no roof racks at about 67 (just below the 110 kph where the H3+ changes the car setting angle for extra down force=extra drag). Otherwise at 70 to 80 mph with no roof racks 42 to 44 mpg. 2 hang gliders on roof rack at 80 mph=29 mpg! I'm told the six speed 2.0 pre DPF is the most economical Diesel C5. I set the distance to travel to 1,000 km in the trip computer, this is about 620 miles and is a reasonable target, being about 44 mpg. If I have no Sat Nav destination set I can see how close I am to that 44-ish mpg goal.

Hi Dan, The C5 does not like a battery that is poor on either voltage or current capability. I would suggest you get a cheap voltage meter to plug into the permanent 12V outlet in the cabin. Leave it plugged in then leave the car for 1 hour, say. Come back and get in, see the voltage drop as the hydraulic pump kicks in, then see how low it goes. If drops much below 11V check the battery in under the bonnet with a proper meter. Check with your garage and let them test it if need be. I would love some more input on this matter from kfk or iannez. Mine had a slightly low battery which recovered after a charge at the garage.

Mine's a 2002, but if you look at the oval cover for the spindle end for the wiper arm you should see a very thin line in it, the cover pulls off and the nut is underneath. I've done some pics and will post them when I get Gallery2 working. PM me and I'll mail them to you.

Bizarrely said rep may now have a Peugeot with more or less the same floor pan design as the previous Citroën, e.g 406 and Xantia, 407 and C5. I had 2 sh*te old BXs and the throttle was lower than brake and clutch. I have know 2 C5 owners who have had issues with stretched throttle cables. However, the travel on the C5 is rather on the short side. If pick up is slower it would be worth just have a look at the intake side of the manifold(s) for leaks, as this would reduce turbo pressure. It may also be that the MAP sensor is tired or disconnected, although I think you would get an error message for this. I've had the MAP sensor left disconnected after a service on a 406 2.1TD, and it did affect take up mostly between 1,500 and 2,000 rpm.

Big 100k bill on the horizon for the C5 auto, with cam belt and stuff to be done, and unless you are a very big Citroën fan the Mondeo is the one to keep, purely for the extra gears, power and economy.

You need to check for any sort of current drain, as iannez says. With some cars it can be caused by the back up battery in the alarm getting old and taking too much current in its trickle charge mode from the battery. Check no lights in boot left on, etc. If you get desperate you will have to pull the fuses to various accessories one by one. Don't disconnect anything important.

Search the forum or Google. Here are some examples: Psa Fault Codes? Useful?, Various PSA fault codes listed PSA fault codes from BBA-reman

It looks like the speed warning has been activated, you need to step through the menu using the button on the end of either the left or right hand column stalk, can't remember which but I think it's the right hand one. You then need to either reset the speed to a higher one (70 mph isn't bad) or turn it off altogether. It would help if you post which version of C5 you have (SX, Exclusive, SE) or if you have the small black and white or large colour display. Do you have an owners manual? If not someone might be able to help you via off line via e-mail. :)

There is a manual. Details of C5 manual

I might be wrong but - Fill up coolant level to the right amount. Start engine from cold and look for bubbles coming up in the expansion tank with the cap off. Bubbles = head is Donald Ducked. YMMV.

If you trigger the washers with the car stationary and the window open can you hear the pump? If so, 50% likely it's blocked jets. You will need a pin, or to remove the hose to the jets then blow them out against the direction of flow. If you can't hear the pump it gets more involved, with needing to measure if there is any voltage at the connector to the pump. If voltage on connector -> pump knackered. If no voltage, problem elsewhere.

Hi E_G_R, Maybe you can post a picture? If you look at the box you type the reply in, just above that there are some symbols. Mouse over them, one of them allows you to insert a picture like this: http://www.steveu.org/Ann4.jpg Unfortunately, the picture already needs to be on the web, but you can solve that by using Google's Picasa or something like that.

There is at least one thread on the Yahoo C5 forum about connecting iPods into the ICE on the C5 with some basic soldering. Wozza made a recommendation for speakers else where.

C5 Suspension, creaky! Radius Arms Rear, replacement of bearings

Suffered this with the old unmatched tyres and with new Dunlop SP2000s. On returning it to the repairer I bought the tyres from, they re-balanced the wheels and the problem was fixed. They used the right adaptor the first time but it seems that the C5 is far more fussy than other cars about balance. Very happy now.

I did over 250,000 miles in two s/h BXes. I've already done over 20,000 miles in a C5. The indy who fixed the BXes over the last 13 years advised on what to buy and avoid in C5s. I had an Alfa Romeo 164 3.0 V6 for 3 weeks. What a car! Belonged to a friend whom I sold it for. 6 years old, fetched only £3k. As a driving experience, it was awesome. If I could have afforded it, I would have bought it, along with a tame lawyer to deal with the speeding hassles. I wouldn't buy a Mondeo, as they fall short of what I need for long distance travel with a hang glider. I use the adjustable suspension all the time, and the self levelling when heavily loaded. A Mondeo simply grounds the sump when driving up rough tracks. You can get a C5 in limp home mode up to about 60-ish mph. Mine has only done that once, when the swirl chamber control valve diaphragm failed. However, the part was replaced, all good as new and the valve has been recycled as another forum member is using the ball joint end of it in Eire.

MAP=Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor. One branch of Bollingmores is very good and knowledgeable, I know this as I bought my last BX from them and have dealt with them over one or little guarantee issues with it, all very swiftly sorted. All cars have stock faults. It pays to do the research about such faults before buying. I don't like automatics, I have only to look at the figures for the C5 autos to see they guzzle fuel and have other problems from reading this forum. Likewise, older C5 2.2 s with the 50k DPF replacement. That is what a lot of places charge for any marque. Older C5 diesels pre date EOBD so you can't use the £30 pod off eBay. Bollingmores are pretty good. Don't know of any independents near there. The reason Citroën cars second hand are so cheap is because there is a fear of hydraulic suspension, complicated systems, and cost of repairs. This has not changed since the DS came out in the late 1950s. Look back at DS, SM, CX, XM or even BX and GS. A big Citroën is like a dog, not just for Xmas, but for life. The story starts here. Why not sell it and buy a top of the range Mondeo TCDi estate?