Randombloke

Yes it should, but make sure you lock the car or the electric motor that is the hydraulic pump will flatten the battery. Get it fully charged ASAP - C5s are known to misbehave on low battery.

Other points not mentioned here would include Ronin's tip for checking tyre pressures, and using different pressures to stock. Advice from Ronin re tyre pressures and results

The only thing that I can think of is that the rocker box will be under some slight pressure owing to very slight leakage from valve stems, etc, plus some slight blow past the pistons into the crank case. You need to fix the hole, I think! This should then reduce oil leakage......

Thanks very much!

I bought mine on eBay as the car came with the wrong one.

Merde! There was no fault code! Ghost ESP/ASR fault! Shows the value of a reboot before worrying about faults.

Sorry, guys, I mean a P6000.

I have a virtually unused P6, which I would like to pair with another, to use on the front when the Dunlop SP2000s wear out. I'm looking for a supplier in the Kent (ME postcode) area who can quote me a good price. Any suggestions? I've already been given Boxley Tyres.

I'm looking for a dead RT2 Navidrive CD player, the one that lives in the compartment to the right of the steering wheel on older (<03) Exclusive C5s. I simply want to take it apart to have look at components. Anyone got a dead one they can post?

Had a result with fuel consumption on the French motorways - best ever economy with 2 hang gliders ever. However, now I'm driving around generally in the UK (mixed driving) the pressure had to go back or the ride is way too harsh. I have also invested in a gauge as the place I usually top up is not proved to be unreliable. Thanks for the advice. Top up to -10% of max for long motorway journeys, stick to recommended for mixed driving.

I had this fault a couple of days ago. I believe it can be traced in my case to defective TA (Traffic Announcement). Seems like there was a problem which was cured by turning TA off. Please check that TA is off then see if you still have the fault. If it's not the radio it might be a COM 2000 fault. I hope not.

I had an ESP/ASR warning which arose during a drive into the Long Mynd area but disappeared after the car was stopped. I have checked and squirted the height sensors/correctors. The rear one is easy to get to with the suspension at the highest setting, it's next to the middle sphere and easy to squirt. The front is harder to find as the front anti roll bar is behind the drive shafts, the best clue again is that it is next to the middle sphere. I'll be getting the fault code tomorrow.

New Haynes Manual For C5 End Of August, click link for post with details.

Play in the turbo bearings or a tired oil seal? Have look and see if you can see any oil being fed into the system from the breather. Also, that hose may have perished. It shouldn't be leaking there anyway, as that is part of the pressurised inlet system. I would look at the hose and the end of that exchanger to see if there is a problem or damage. Be worth getting the RTA manual if you are going to go into depth.

Manuel says to unhook the two lower fixings then pull carefully backwards.

Can you get at either end of the air pipe going into the valve? You might need to connect a bike hand pump up to gently see if the diaphragm is ruptured. Yes, you can hear it, but is it it intact? The lower pipe feeds both the intercooler and a water/air heat exchanger that can be used to warm the inlet air. It comes from the turbocharger so any large amounts of oil must be from that or the breather valves/system.

This was the fault on my C5 the only time it ever went AP faulty. With the swirl chamber control valve, one of 2 things happens: The control rod joint breaks - easy to see by inspection. You cannot buy the small plastic ball joint or the rod on its own. The diaphragm splits and leaks, difficult to spot but could be tested by connected a small length of clean tube and blowing gently to see if there is a leak. The diaphragm on mine went, so I posted it to another forum member with a broken ball joint. I bought a new valve and he made a good one from 2 duff ones. HTH. Ronin is more likely to be right, though.

It worked. Try it yourself but with extreme care, noting remarks about accurate air pumps. Details in that thread.

To be honest I was not convinced about this theory. So it made sense to prove or disprove it. However it comes from someone who can be seen to practically knowledgeable so it would be silly not to try. After all how long does it take to let the air out of the tyres if not? Set front and rear to 2.7/2.8, roughly 39/41. Travelled with hang glider today, best is usually 38-40.5 mpg. Reset for this trip, got 41.6mpg. So, it worked. Definite vibe of less rolling resistance.Slightly more connected feel on the road compared to 2.5 bar Downsides: Harsher ride, but not much worse than with 2.5 bar. More road noise, move than with 2.5 bar and noticeably so. I will be going with the -10% tyre wall max style suggested above, i.e. 44psi or 3 bar -10% for motorway trips and hang glider travel of any sort. I will resort back to 2.5 for general use round town. Thanks for suggestion.

I have a 2.2 HDi. The manual says the headlights are governed by the fuses F9-F12 (9/10 = L/R dip, 11/12 L/R main) in the main fuse box in the engine compartment. Do not confuse these fuses with the Maxi Fuses, very high current, also in the engine bay. You will also find 2 fuse boxes in the glove box behind the flap. It may be a relay problem in your car as the right and left headlights have separate fuses. HTH.

Get someone else to sit in the car and take the suspension up and down on the centre console while you watch and listen from outside. Be ready for the unexpected.

I'd leave it. I've had a small period of poor economy. Didn't check pressures as I had done it not long before. Checked them and all 4 were low by about 0.4 bar. Pumped up and economy much better. If you have Dunlop SP 2000s I would suggest a minimum of 2.5 bar all round and more like 2.5 front, 2.8 rear even with no load.

3rd piston de-activator in French. It reduces the high pressure pump from 3 to 2 piston running, reducing the pressure in the common rail side of the injector system. Pump pressure relay in English? Is it the washer leaking? Be sure to get it back on properly, as it is on the HP side of a common rail system as far as I can tell. Cleanliness will be paramount when changing it, if in doubt, don't, common rail is *very* high pressure.

My gut feeling from having seen this happen to GPz1100s is that IF the car wash has actually affected the BSI then the connections at the front of the car to this unit should be checked for tightness and water ingress. Was the car simply washed or steam cleaned? I'd be inclined to disconnect the battery (correct procedure!!) then go through all the connectors with a hair dryer, clean them and then re-connect them all with a very small amount of switch cleaner used. I would also look for evidence of loose wires under the lower tailgate trim and see if there is any evidence of a bodged or hastily removed tow bar. My car has had the Car Giant treatment - seems they just take the tow ball off and cut the 8 way cable with a pair of tin snips. @ Pete - the "wires" for the rear demist are embedded in the "paint" on the rear screen along with the conductors that carry the short to open the rear screen. Might be worth doing some measurements from either of the two switch contacts to the screen heating element to see if there is a short. If you look at the file on Yahoo C5 for rear screen fix then you will seen the yellow wire that is used to open the rear screen. It *may* be worth your while cutting this when you run the new wires. As usual input requested from kfk, iannez and Barbs C1.

And they are the same chassis AFAIK, so the difference was in the suspension!!