Randombloke

It could also be the dreaded BX stylie swing arm bearing issue. Either way, best to sort ASAP.

Yes! I drive an Activa once, and it was AWESOME!!! Something else in Xantia clothing. The C5 has some slight body roll to appear natural, but the Activa from memory had none. I found a country lane with no cars in sight and did some mad swerving. No body roll. What a car.

Looks like the dreaded COM 2000 problem to me. Might be solved by cleaning the tracks, might not. Techs, your comments please. (Don't clean the tracks without comments from real Citroen techs). COM 2000 unit pricey.

I have an H3+ estate and body roll, especially on roundabouts is very small. H3 won't have the same amount, of correction, IMV, but the first place I would look is the anti roll bar links. With your mileage they may be worn. In line with another thread here it might also be worth seeing if you can see the part number on the spheres and make sure that no one has retrofitted "comfort spheres" or spheres of a different volume/pressure. The only other thing I would check would be the suspension bushes all round, plus top mounts on the front struts. Suspension requires infrequent fluid changes, and filters sometimes need to be replaced as well. Spheres lose pressure and go hard, having the same effect on the suspension. If you can't find any record of the last time the fluid in the system was changed, it may be time to get it done. Check also that it is orange LDS fluid.

I have Trafficmaster in the C5 and it is very useful to me. I also have a similar portable unit (Freeway) which I have just renewed, £55 for 2 years. Very happy with it but would only recommend it if you know how it works and accept its limitations.

This topic needs to be moved to the Xantia section of the forum. Check Air Mass flow Sensor and Manifold absolute pressure sensors. Make sure wires are secure.

I'm not sure if H3 has 6 spheres, but I think it might. If it does then the middle sphere(s) could have gone hard but the car might still be ok to bounce. Taking the car down a few clicks (using diagnostic/laptop) might improve suspension softness. On the older cars the higher it went the harder it got. My first BX had harder than standard on the rear, and it was also better for me. Don't know. Between 1982 (passed test) and round about 1985 I drove 504s a lot. A brilliant compromise, good handling yet suspension that was absorbent enough for roads in Nigeria. With something like H3+ we can have DS/GS ride in straight lines and 205 cornering. With coil springs on the latest C5s we might have hard jouncy, Passat style ride. At that point we may as well buy a Passat, or a Skoda equivalent. Some other postings here have mentioned "comfort spheres" for C5, but I suspect it's simply a case, as you say of using a sphere with a higher initial pressure and therefore larger volume of gas to compress. This will give a softer ride. It would be interesting to find some information on this, as simply swapping either the centre spheres (bigger/smaller difference between sport and normal mode on H3+) or the four corners (harder/softer ride generally) might help improve things with higher tyre pressures for better fuel economy.

Be worth you guys telling us if the suspension on your C5 is H3 (no sport button) or H3+ (sport button). If it's H3+ and rides poorly, it might be stuck in sport mode. Used to happen with some XMs. I don't think slightly hard spheres show up on the diagnostic, but kfk, iannez and BarbsC1 are your ports of call for confirmation. If the nitrogen has leaked out of the spheres the ride will be hard. Search for test methods elsewhere posted by names above. The spheres can be removed and tested. Worth finding a decent repairer in your area. May also be worth running the car up and down on the suspension a couple of times and see if it settles in the same place.

There is a plastic cover for the whole wiper and glass release on the inside. It removes easily by hand. Have a look for loose wires underneath it. The boot release wires are soldered there and if either one has come unsoldered and is touching something else then there is your problem. Do a search on the forum for the easy (20 minutes) fix for the rear glass. That might solve your problem also. Lastly, there is a lock mechanism in the lower part of the tailgate. It can be accessed by removing the tailgate trim. Have a look under there to for loose wires or unlubricated mechanisms. Before removing the tailgate trim go to a local Citroen dealer and get some spare clips as you will break one or two removing the tailgate trim. Check the fuses, if they have blown then there is almost definitely a wiring problem. Don't replace them without checking the above, in my opinion.

Reduce the pressure in one of the tyres to less than 1.5 bar and it should tell you the tyre is under inflated - that's what mine does, think the threshold is 1.8 bar for the warning. You may need to drive some distance. I always keep my tyres properly inflated for fuel economy reasons - last saw this when spare (non reporting) was on car and leaky tyre in boot - car kept hassling me about low tyre pressure.

Running the turbo with more boost pressure means more power from the engine, and the higher pressures on the inlet side mean the turbo will run hotter. The engine will generate more heat as a by product of the extra power. This means more ear on all engine parts, not just the turbo. Hotter running temperatures mean the oil loses viscous qualities quicker, and then cannot lubricate or cool the turbo as efficiently. If the rise in boost goes with uprated cooling (both for oil and water), and better oil, and the turbo is run down properly, then the turbo will probably out last the overstressed engine it is force feeding. In practice, I think not. The higher pressures and temperatures, combined with a lack of the facilities to cope with these means either the engine or its turbo will croak prematurely. Turbo Technics probably used the best oil available.

Be sure the fuse you pulled with the 0.19 load is actually the one connected to the diesel additive pump. In the diagram I showed you, the pump is not connected to F10. It's the ADDITIVE INJECTOR that's connected to F10. The additive pump is run from the additive ECU which runs off F16. You need to find the additive injector, disconnect the wires from it and connect a voltmeter across them. On turning on the ignition one of the wires will measure +12V if the other voltmeter lead is connected to earth. If you pull F10 and this measurement drops to zero then the injector is your problem. If the voltage stays there when F10 is pulled then you can leave it out secure in the knowledge that it's not running the injector. Note: ECU=1282 Pump=1283 Injector=1284 HTH.

In this post in this topic about alignment, Ronin raises the issue of the tyre pressures posted on the drivers side door frame being inaccurate, because they may be out of date or not for the tyres now on the car. I'm interested to see how much experience we have of other tyre pressures. I usually use 2,5/3.0 bar front/rear, on an 02 2.2 HDi Estate, H3+. I will edit this post later to put the psi values in brackets. The tyres on the car are Dunlop SP2000. The values are taken from the door frame, and are for fully loaded. I have noticed that compared to 2.3/2.5 or 2.5/2.5 this gives better fuel economy, and slightly sharper handling but at the expense of ride quality. Can any other members comment? Has anyone else tried the maximum value - 10% values suggested in the link above?

Please can you tell us where we can get the injectors reconditioned cheaply and for how much? Any idea of how good the recon injectors are compared to new? Recon injectors in my first old shite BX at 125,000 miles made a hell of a difference. About to do same on shite old 406 with 2.1 XUD engine, at 143,000 miles. Will need to do same on C5 sometime in next 3 years.

Yes. Check every jubilee club and scabby piece of hose on the inlet side. Any leak neuters turbo. See the post where someone sorted out a blocked EGR valve or blanked it off.

Hi Kay, It looks like you might be needing a special tool. Please check this link: Locking valve caps and scroll down past the first two or three items to the Citroen locking valve caps. It looks like these things are held in place by a grub screw tightened on the side of the cap, see the strange tool needed to remove it? You may be able to solve the problem if you have a small enough Allen key, or perhaps a visit to Halfords to see if you can find the tool. See if you can see a tiny grub screw on any of the six faces for the nut. Also, check in the tiny compartment to the right of the steering wheel under the dash, some people keep locking wheel nut adaptors here, or also in the little receptacle in the glove box that covers the fuses.

I think he has confused the BM34 and BSI1 boxes as my diagrams show the DPF injector fed from F10 in the glove box whereas the +ve for the caravan battery comes from the F10 in the engine bay. To complicate things further, circuit diagrams are different depending on whether the car is up to OPR 8941 or post that number, and auto/manual is another factor. Citroen techs opinions please. I'm just an 'Erbert with a French manual and limited but usable French.

My friend Manuel who lives in the glovebox of my 2.2 HDi says that the light on the dash of mine will only come on for dipped headlights. PM me if you need a scan of the manual to show this. I thought it might be the difference between manual and auto headlight control but I've tried switching that off and on and it makes no difference. The manual says categorically that the light is green and is for dipped beam.

Two solutions: 1. Park car with valve on tyre uppermost. Squirt small amount of WD 40 onto thread above or behind valve cap. Leave overnight. Unscrew. If they are reporting valves the previous owner may not have ever bothered checking the tyre pressures thinking the car would to it for him. 2. Try unscrewing valve then shout: "Moi, je m'en fou!" loudly. The valve with then unscrew easily. :(

I have looked into new injectors and apparently they are awesomely expensive. I've been quoted £600-£1000 a set, but I have not looked around. If you do get any quotes for replacements please post here. I would check the trip computer by doing some tank to tank refills. I would also ask you about the spoiler, Citroen OE or aftermarket? If aftermarket, I would be suspicious. I know how crap the fuel economy is on my C5 with any kind of roof rack or load on the rack.

Lock the car when you get out as this will usually disable the self levelling and the hydraulic pump. If the height correctors are a little sticky maybe running the car through the full range of height settings will help.

We need to know roughly where you are as me suggesting Mid Kent Vehicles on 01622 794499 may be of no use to you at all........ The ECU will need to be reset by the tech after the work has been done. Check with iannez, kfk or BarbsC1. Have you checked for binding brakes, tyre pressures and maybe just considered a basic reset? That's doing the procedure to disconnect the battery then leaving it off for about an hour?

0.19 Amps seems rather high to me. Please can you tell us exactly which model you have. I'm looking at the RTA manual for 2.0/2.2 HDi up to 04. In the glove box, F10 is the +ve feed for the caravan battery. F11 is the feed for number of engine and gearbox ECUs. In the engine bay F10 is for the right dipped beam, and F11 for left hand indicators. F24 in the glove box does screen/display. If F10 really is for a feed to a caravan battery, then it begs the question that you should leave F10 out and reconnect the battery and see if the car will start.

The EGR reduces emissions, and new vehicles are equipped with them to ensure they comply with legislation and type approval that they must adhere to. The emissions tests in the MOT are usually not as stringent as the regulations for new vehicles, so it may be that the car will still pass the MOT with the EGR valve bypassed. It will also produce slightly more power.

Eco mode is shutting down the car because there is a device draining current when the engine is off. I would love to know from the Citroen Techs why this would not work: Disconnect the battery negative terminal and then re-connect it via an ammeter. (Do not switch ignition or or try to start car under any circumstances) You should see the current being drawn by the rogue device. Now remove and refit all the fuses one by one until the current drawn drops to zero, at that point you then have the fuse that is feeding the problem piece of kit in your hand. If it is not essential to the running of the car, leave it out and refit the battery without the ammeter in series. If it is essential, a replacement will be needed. As well as mobile phone interfaces, one of my favourite bad guys for this fault is the back battery in the alarm unit, which is normally trickle charged off the battery. When the back battery dies it then simply consumes too much current. Another maybe the radio. Also interior lights as mentioned in boot or glove box. If it is a faulty battery then there will be no slight spark when you reconnect the battery with the ignition off. If there is a current drain and the battery is ok then you might hear or see a small spark on battery reconnection. The battery needs a full charge before restoring it to the car. If iannez, kfk or BarbsC1 are about can they show me the problem with this logic? Thanks.