iannez

diesel filter housing

the set has the cars vin programmed into it so as long as it is removed and refitted into the same car it will never need recode. the mute is unused on the black connector so you will need to shove the nokia mute wire down the empty slot for it to make contact with the pin on the set. the easiest way to find it is to use a test light with an earth wire. earth the end and shove the other end down the empty holes in the multi plug while the radio is connected and turned on. when you push it down the right hole the radio will mute and a speaker with a cross through it will come up on the display. using a test light will prevent you from shorting anything out.

citroen states 50/50 mix with every 3rd tank full being regular diesel. had to change a full set of injectors and a hp pump on a berlingo last week due to it being run on bio so would not recomend using it. dont think its worth the hassle for what you save in the long run. false economy imo.

one is 90hp (rhy). other is 110 (rhz). difference is an intercooler. as john said the ecu alters the boost to suit the cooler air on the rhz engine giving it the same hp as the rhy at 1000 less rpm which is why you get the 20hp extra at max rpm. if its just 1 tooth its jumped you should get away with it. bottom pully wears away the outside edge of the timing belt and a piece of it ends up under the belt causing it to jump. done quite a few of these and never had one cause any damage so fingers crossed. the loss of compression will be down to the valves not closing fully at tdc.

randomblokes advice is the best way to solve this problem but dont use a bulb. this will cause a drain on the battery and will stop the bsi going to sleep causing further battery drain and giving you a false reading. start of by opening the drivers door and leave it open then open the bonnet. let the car stand without opening or closing any doors for a couple of minutes before you disconnect the battery to make sure the bsi has gone to sleep. set your multimeter to amps. remove the live terminal and bridge between the live clamp and battery terminal with your multimeter. you should always have a small amount of battery drain so dont worry about it dropping to 0. now remove one fuse at a time untill it drops somewhere near zero. dont forget about the engine bay fuse box but dont bother with the maxi fuses as they power so many different things it will take you forever to find the component at fault. when it does drop leave the fuse out. reconnect the battery, start the car and check to see whats not working. you will probably get down to 3 or 4 components. now replace the fuse, and let the bsi shut down again and disconnect the battery. put your multimeter across the terminals and start unpluging the components that didnt work one at a time untill you loose the drain and you have found your fault. you say the ctrl locking will not work from the drivers door. it should work from both front door locks no matter what country its set up for so you have a fault with the drivers door mech. i would replace this before you do anything else. i have had a door mech fault which caused battery drain. the door does not lock with the others so the bsi keeps trying over and over to lock the door untill the battery goes flat. even in eco mode you still get battery drain. it only reduces it so if you leave something on when you go shopping for example it will start when you come out. if left over night the battery will be flat the following morning.

no more than £100 for the parts (second hand) and a couple of hours labour. i changed a rack on a vtr last week and it took just under 30 min so a decent mechanic should be able to do the whole job in under 2 hours. not sure if the wiring will be there for the pump so if its not he will have to fit a relay from an ignition live as the feeds to the pump are to heavy to wire direct so this might bump the labour up another half hour.

if it is the injector it will be dripping rather than spraying so there will be no problems with fuel pressure. if you had damaged a piston you would notice a drop in power due to loss of compression.

tbh its not a bad job. all you will need is the electric pump, pipes and rack. with the pump not being belt driven makes it much easier.

a faulty injecter could be the problem. over fueling.

there is a hole on each side of the lens. use something sharp and insert it into one of the holes. gently lever away from the light and the lens will fall off.

if you can pick any sort of a fault with the ride quality on a c5 theres something wrong. if the spheres are on there way out and not totaly shot it would still pass an mot. only other thing to worry about on these is corrosion build up on the fixing plate of the rear calipers causing them to twist and make contact with the disk.

you need to remove the steel bracket to get better access. 2x13mm and 2x 10mm bolts.

the rear pads are slightley bigger than the disc so when the pads wear you end up with a small lip on the outside edge of the pad which sits over the edge of the disc causing the squeal. remove the pads and file or grind off the lip. dont understand why any dealer would turn work away unless the costomer is expecting the work to be done for free. easy way would be to ask how much a rear brake service will be and then book it in. the technician will remove the lip and re-face the pads. there should be no lip on the discs because as i said earlier the pads over hang the disc.

these engines have a cast alloy cam box and then a plastic rocker cover ontop of the head. you will need to take the timing covers and the egr pipe of to get it off so its not a straight forward job. very common fault on the dw8 engines. had to remove and re-seal the cambox on my own berlingo when i bought it. dont think the factory sealer is up to the job.

35mm but a 36mm hex will take them of if you have problems getting hold of one. dont forget about the earths on top of the box.

if it a newish facelift model check fuse f3 under bonnet.

are the cooling fans working now. is the top radiator hose getting hot. are you sure there is no air in the system. never had to change a water pump on a saxo but would'nt rule it out.

1. press menu button on radio 2. scroll down to units 3. press centre button 3. 100L = kph 4. mpg = mph

one of the switched lives from you ignition barrel has gone down mate. remove the cowls and check both wires in the brown plug with the ignition on. both should be live but you will probably find one is'nt. you can fit a new barrel or splice and solder a link between both these wires for a quick cheap fix.

check the voltage to find out.

i have had these faults when the alternators start playing up. the alternator stops charging so the car uses the battery instead and it begins to drain. once it reaches 10v the ecu's on the various components you listed stop working and the warning signs appear. smell the alternator for burning and set up a multi meter in the car so when this happens you can check the charging voltage. the battery does not need to go flat. a good battery can be pulled down to 10v and return to 12+v when the load is removed.

you cant find it mate because its not there. c2's have an electric motor on the rack. they dont use hydralics on these so your problem is probably the motor, or the ecu. is your car out of warrenty.

you will always get a small amount of oil in your intercooler. i have never removed one that has'nt but if theres oil leaking from it air will be aswell and that will reduce boost pressure resulting in lack of power and most probably economy. dont worry about the oil unless theres exess smoke from your exhaust but find the leak. the small rubber pipe that connects the turbo the the plastic pipe have a habbit of splitting on these but if its coming from your intercooler it could be a loose pipe clip. can you not hear a strange noise when you rev the car.

very nice mate but i think you will miss the vxr. driven a few s2000 and they sound fantastic at around 8000rpm. had a go of my mates vxr 220 (non turbo) on a country road and can honestley say it was the most fun i have ever had in a car. not the fastest thing in the world but the way it went round corners was unbelivable as you will already know.

always replace the ecu's mate. never heard anything about anyone being able to reset the older models. do you know what diag tool he used kev.