remove the keys, open the bonnet and let it stand for 5 minutes until all ecu's completely shut down. remove the live battery lead and let it stand for 5 more minutes. reconnect battery and open a door to wake every thing back up and thats it.
one of the door mechs has gone down. you will need to remove the multi plug from one door at a time until it stays locked. then you will know which one is at fault. have you tried to lock the passanger door with the key.
this was only the nearside rear pipe. the shape of the guard was diffrent because of the fuel filler neck. we had to heat them up and re-mould them so they cleared the pipe.
done loads of pollution faults lately wozza and they were all down to the coolant temp sensor cracking. if this is the case with yours it would pay to have it checked as the coolant can work its way up the inside of the wires (pulmonary effect) to the ecu and cause a fire.
you are getting the fault because you have an oxygen sensor on each side of the cat so the one on the back is sensing that the harmful emission's has not been removed from the exhaust gasses. the easiest fix would be to replace the cat. can you even notice the difference after its been removed. i know with the vag group cars a stage 2 remap puts the light out.
have you started the car after doing this. take your car to any garage and they will advise you to change pumps lines etc. most people go through there insurance to do this because it is so expensive. i personally would take a chance and drain the system and fit a new fuel filter. if your car has a pump in the tank it can be powered up and the feed pipe to the high pressure pump disconnected and emptied into an empty drum. then again i work for a dealer so it would probably be best to consult a back street garage or a diesel specialist before taking any notice of me. :blink:
battery light comes on when the battery voltage drops below 10 volts. i am 99% sure it will be an alternator fault but should be checked first. some times this fault can be intermittent so car will need to be driven while tested. use the cig lighter socket to do this.
look on the calliper housing down the side of the cylinder and you will see a raised line. now look on the end of the piston and you will see a cut out. line the cut out up with the line and they should fit over.
sounds to me like the timing has jumped a tooth and the knocking noise you can hear is a diesel knock. or the garage has forgot to put oil in the car after draining it. never heard of a bottom end going on an hdi so think this problem will be down to something the garage has done.
pull the cloth trim down in the passenger side footwell and and look up and to the right side. you should see a plastic cover held on with 2 silver torx 20 screws. remove the screws and pull off the plastic cover and the filter will slide out.
to change the dash bulbs remove the ignition cowls and you will see 2 screws. remove them and a third screw in the top just infront of the clocks then the trim around the clocks pulls forward. then there are 3 screws holding the clocks in. remove them and the clocks pull forward. put your hand around the back and disconnect the plug and there out. the bulbs just twist out. for the hand brake remove the trim around it and theres a length of threaded bar at the back of it with with a 13mm nut. tighten the nut to tighten the cable. think you will find your adjusters will have seized on the shoes tho.
eco mode is basically battery saver mode. when a ecu detects current drain it puts your car into this state to stop the battery from going flat. starting the car resets this. have you got an after market radio fitted or leaving a phone or sat nav charger plugged in as this could cause it. if not a component has gone down and is causing battery drain.