techbod

01 HEADLIGHT ASSY LEFT didn't notice that bit :rolleyes: but at least a try ;) mind you I cant believe you have to change the complete unit just to take a short trip to France when standard headlights only need a sticker to alter the aim? I'm sure Ive seen something about how to do it with xenons and hids so ill keep looking

don't think fuel would come out as too much compression there and the fuel would burn up quick, you need very thin cleaning tools for that like a dremel and some engine cleaner

cant really see much there but possibly the injector seal? it would be better to clean that area so you get a better picture

ahhh im glad you noticed that :rolleyes: but still they have left and right hand bulbs ;) now for the berlingo 21/08/08 0401 05 5410 01A HEADLIGHT - GLASS - LAMP 01 6204 AX 01 HEADLIGHT ASSY LEFT - LEFT HAND DRIVE 6205 AW 01 RIGHT - LEFT HAND DRIVE 6204 AY 01 LEFT - RIGHT HAND DRIVE 6205 AX 01 RIGHT - RIGHT HAND DRIVE 05 6215 47 02 BULB-HOLDER 10 6216 99 02 HEADLIGHT LAMP H4 12V-60/55W 11 6216 A0 02 BULB 12V-PY21W 12 6216 A1 02 BULB 12V-W5W 70 7427 23 08 SCREW DIAM 6X100-20 http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr53/techbod/berlingoheadlight.jpg

any antifreeze in? coolant temp sensor failed? any oil in there? if all are ok then you have a big problem and it needs checking for fault codes

its all in the comms 2000 on the steering wheel no fuses/relays for the doors looking at my data so only way would be to pull the plugs in the doors

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...v%3D2%26hl%3Den

no problem mate my photo bucket is getting some very useful information so i'm doing it for me as well

02/10/08 0601 05 5410 01A HEADLIGHT - GLASS - LAMP HALOGEN BULB 01 6208 43 01 HEADLAMP ASSY LEFT - LEFT HAND DRIVE AND HALOGEN BULB 6206 43 01 RIGHT - LEFT HAND DRIVE AND HALOGEN BULB 6208 44 01 LEFT - RIGHT HAND DRIVE AND HALOGEN BULB 6206 44 01 RIGHT - RIGHT HAND DRIVE AND HALOGEN BULB 10 6215 46 02 BULB-HOLDER PY21W 11 6215 57 02 BULB-HOLDER 20 6216 97 02 HEADLIGHT LAMP H7 12V-55W 21 6216 98 02 HEADLIGHT LAMP H1 12V-55W 22 6216 31 RP 6216 A0 02 01 BULB PY21W-12V OR - ORANGE 23 6216 94 02 BULB 12V-H6W 70 6922 54 12 SELF-TAP SCREWS DIAM 6X100-20 75 6941 93 04 CAGED NUT DIAM 6X100 apparently the do a left hand drive bulb http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr53/techbod/c5headlight.jpg

follow the break peddle up and its located half way up and it twists out

useless info :) since I found the proper answer in the next post <_<

email sent :)

this is sorta dangerous ground because if we tell you how we could be in serious breach of site rules because its telling people how to get round the immobiliser and pinch cars so it would need to be reset by the garage where you will have to take proof of ownership

it depends on what you mean by hard? the steering is progressive at speed and light at idle that's how modern cars work, if it feels like the steering is over hard then there is a problem and probably air in the system

sounds strange what thermostat are they on about? the only one thing I can think of is the coolant temp sensor if that was giving odd readings then it would cut the engine out, its just a pity they keep vital information so we could check it out like the fault codes for instance

hmm flashing normally indicates a problem with the ECU you need to have it scanned for fault codes and pinpoint the problem also a good idea is to check the wiring to the injectors for shorting out

the needle will just be stuck as its a common fault

you need to take the door cards off and see if they are coming loose

it should be covered by the warranty :)

sounds to me like a scam why didn't they get a printout of the fault code for proof that its the turbo ( which I doubt there's a problem )? no light on now suggests to me it was a bogus fault but it should still have a soft error code stored in the ECU ask them to diagnose it again and ask for a readout, its an old cash trick by garages like the EGR valve needs changing when they know it can be cleaned so it comes down to cost :lol:

the filter can be cleaned out so no need to fit a new one and yes air will make it take longer to pump up and thus the stop light will stay on longer because it has to reach the required pressure ( its the rear spheres that's the problem many people let the system down to low and don't check if the rear is all the way down when they bleed it hence still air in the system ) what I did was to sit on the lip of the boot to make it go all the way down and did that about 10 times

take width measurement and order the thinnest to stick over yours you don't want it sticking out too far

try bleeding it a few times pump it up all the way and let it down to the lowest ensuring the rear goes all the way down, it took a while for me to get all the air out which sounds like your problem

as a member of your site ive noticed you lurking :lol: good site yours is I often visit to view ;)

not a bad price :lol: im sorry the other didn't work but at least it was a try ;)