techbod

it all depends on how you drive? running in doesn't like car to idle too long/ high speeds /short runs but 1k should be enough to start feeling the results but driving experience is more the question because until you control the car "the car will control you" only experience will prevail and that's down to you now, advanced courses are good like suggested

yes it was from another site and its referring to the heated o2 sensor and probably a bogus fault due to engine not running right so oil could be the problem or it due for the throttle body to be cleaned out ( o2 sensor reports fuel/air faults ) and if engine has anything wrong in this area it gives that fault code so don't just change the o2 sensor, clean things first

true and so did bill gates ;) course I don't use it much because it costs too much to maintain so ill be thinking of letting it go next year if prices don't drop more than they are now as their not worth much for starters

its only live when the ignition is on use a multi meter to check it

well im embarrassed my Lexus does 20mpg round town and 35 motorway but then its a 4.0 32v and that's very cool ;)

not a live permettant feed you want but an ignition on feed

we could go over the top on this but its a learning curve , the alternator doesn't turn at a single speed its alternated! that's why the call it an alternator Ie:- when you turn the air con on the revs go higher and that's called load and the system has to deal with it and that's a fuel issue ( there's a little more to the alternator/serpentine belt than what it is and the alternator has more to say than its rotation

the remote is separate from the key/chip, put the key into the ignition and turn it to position II then press and hold the remote lock/unlock till the system bleeps which means its reprogrammed then remove the key from the ignition and try the remote, if the remote was from another car it wont work

This varible timing issue has plagued my truck since I bought it used with 30,000 miles on the engine. it now has 55,000 miles. Under extended warrenty they replaced both solnoids and I have replaced one sensor. On my truck coded P1110 and P1135 were solnoids and code P1140 was a sensor. I understand that the computer doesnt necessarly send these codes in that order for this failure but the even number coded p1140 and P1110 are for Left hand Bank 1 which is Passengers side. P1135 and P1145 are for right hand bank 2 which is driverside. LH and RH are standing at the front of the truck looking at the engine not from the drivers seat. I am almost convinced this is an oil issue not a sensor or solonoid issue. I now run 5w-30 Mobil 1 synthetic oil and this issue seems to be gone for now. Hopefully forever Dont let your oil get dirty. What I dont understand is why this is a problem with 2001 and not anything made in 2002 and later. What did nissan change or did they do a software fix? most systems suffer the same fault the above is a copy from another site and different car make but the code means the same regardless

^ very good point to add to the others if its not that but its good info indeed

you only get better with experiance and I feel sorry for you with the bad drivers on the road today all full of anger and not enjoying driving like when I passed my test cough not many cars on the road then lol but it was more a pleasure driving then, I dont drive too much these days :rolleyes:

hmmm interesting jack the front wheels of the ground and see if it still does it with engine running and if it does then it could be a worn washer in the steering column the main shaft runs inside a pipe down to the bulkhead area and that's where the plastic washer sits and its there to keep the shaft central and lubed other things to check are the steering rake/height adjuster for loose bolts, checking with the wheels of the ground eliminates some areas so if it only does it with the wheels down then it will be the rack/track rod ends or even tyres touching the inner arches due to suspension being low,

think of the alternator as a power station the more things you have on the more it needs to produce so puts a load on the engine especially big audio systems :lol: as for the lights yes its minor but when your talking low mpg costs everything counts and probably those who drive with fogs on during the day to make the car look aggressive or stand out and power up that amp with the windows open will realise there is a cost for every thing :rolleyes:

I doubt its an ECU fault more like a poor connection or bad earth

at least you now know what effects fuel consumption because many dont think of these things

I don't have any images of it but to help find a thin pipe coming from the exhaust manifold and follow it back to the EGR valve. edit* this is what it looks like http://www.midlandpeugeot.com/EGR_valve_WJY.jpg small image but it should give you an idea

yes it takes time for the engine to loosen up on a new car that's why you have to take it in for its first service at 500 miles and they put new oil/filter in, what you get in mpg depends on lots of things ie:- if you drive with the window open your creating drag, under-inflated tyres, full car loading, driving with the headlights on, heavy foot so you have to take lots into account :rolleyes: anything that causes loading on the engine has a price and yes headlights/spot lights cause the alternator to work harder which costs fuel

hopefully the steering lock doesn't engage at 70mph or your going straight to hospital lol and I personally would want to know what the problem was so it doesn't happen again even if you feel confident with it because it sorted its self out

let me explain a little better, eloy is an additive same as red X but not the same stuff so don't use it in place of eloy ( I didn't mean use it instead ) I was just pointing out what it is :lol: hopefully that clears that little bit up. what my thoughts are is filling the eloys tank with normal petrol/diesel "depending on what the engine runs on of course" because its a programmed system that injects the additive into the fuel to help keep the fuel system cleaner hence the FAP filter so looking at the system it doesn't know what its injecting so it might as well be normal fuel, Ive been on a few sites where they put normal fuel in without any problems including some who ave done a decat or should I say deFAPCAT and used higher octane fuel for more power ( remember fuel has a cleaner mixed n as standard ) and the FAP/CAT/EGR are just extras to keep the o2 cleaner and they cost lots and they can all be bypassed ( im not saying you should do this by any means ) but its worth considering if your into performance, you can still use an additive in the tank like other do to increase performance and keep the fuel system clean so your looking after the environment which is the main thing cough :rolleyes: edit* found this very ineresting http://www.dieselnet.com/papers/9909rhodia/ also found this and now wonder if the system even works well.. http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=39191

been off for a few weeks :) fell down the stairs !ouch missed a step but hit all the others lol ill be back to normal soon ( what ever normal is :lol: ) having a wee tipple now and watching movies and will be back tomorrow ;)

^ thats modern cars for you :)

^^ totally agree it does sound like a wire issue or failure to fit a good earth to the chassis

http://images.google.co.uk/images?um=1&amp...G=Search+Images it probably just needs cleaning out

^^ I would agree there the fuel filter hasn't got any sensors to tell you when to change it :)

now tell me why you think that? all it is - is a computer programmed to pump fluid at certain times by mileage count ( do I put red X in when it says so on the bottle ). im not saying don't do it but open to discussion as that's what it seems to be doing and probably a cash rip off as we are all aware off ( my book doesn't say use red X but its recommended only ) so don't discount it that quick :)