techbod

1k for a fuel pump you must be joking or am I missing something? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FUEL-PUMP-NEW--CITRO...121210003r25849

a good rant is good for the soul and the dealers hate these sites especially the one near me because I send them the links to the problems people are having regularly :blink: I bet they hate me if they knew who I was :o

I know what you mean on prices being over the top and its a dealer thing an profit based ( excessive profits that is ) as can be seen when a so called back street garage undertakes the job and does it for half what the dealer charges :blink:

sounds like you need a new switch you could also check if power is getting to the rear demister with a multimeter

digital dash I presume? check all the fuses with a multi meter, also check you have set the dimmer switch too low and the dimmer switch could also be the problem no power there and the dash lights wont work

ahhh yes once you feel the difference of the 6 cylinder you wont go back to 4 :blink:

you fill the tank from the red light and see what you get mpg wise then you alter your driving style to see whats the best

my 2000 1.8 16v xantia was costing me £200 full comp so when I put the Lexus back on the road I thought I was going to get hammered ;) because its 4ltr 260 bhp but I was quoted £198 by swift full comp, im with 1st quote at the moment so I transferred the insurance to the Lexus at a cost of £37 and its still got 6 months to go ( I know its an age thing lol ) but a 1.8 to a 4.0 and the later is the cheapest :blink:

I hear what your saying but not all the HDi /HPi engines have this problem ( this sort of site draws those who have problems ) and believe me its only a minority and that's what these types of sites deal with so lets not blow this out of preposition and condemn, I know of many that have had no problem with these cars but obviously regardless of badge there are some that get through the net as can be seen on many sites including RR :blink:

hehe no problem sleeping just not later than 4am, mind you I did sleep in once to 5am :blink:

no wing to take off and its the rear of the car so take the suspension to full height then jack it up and use Axel stands as its very dangerous when working on anything suspension wise with these cars. i'm usually up at 4am just cant sleep later than that :blink:

http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr53/techbod/xantiahcupd.jpg

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TAILGATE-STRUTS-CITR...%3A1|240%3A1318 no idea personally but hope this link can help. just bought a set for my Lexus bonnet struts from ebay at £45 a pair dealer price £100 + that magic VAT

yep the splines would make the difference but they only needed the cars age and vin number to find that out but since that sorted its something to remember for future reference, back windows? as in door windows? or in the rear cabin like the boot area if they have opening windows then there should be a toggle either on that window or they are electronic and the basic problem with them as its an estate are the contacts on the door so you need to see if power is getting to them

that's the problem with this all electric stuff and the weather is 90% to blame and of late its been causing many problems with cars on many sites ive been on and as soon as things warm up its like magic all the problem instantly disappear so making it harder to diagnose, im glad yours has seen the light :blink: and hope it stays that way ;)

^ now that bit I totally agree with as the 2.0 has more torque and that would mean a stronger drive shaft and cv joint to cope ( you cant fit a cv joint from a 1.6 to a 2.0 ), all the aftermarket places ive been to never asked for the tranny number they just need the age/ engine size/ and if petrol-diesel, dealer asked for the VIN number or number plate reg

this guy seems to know a lot about this engine and this is his answer and im leaning toward his answer ( copied from the picasso forum ) and injectors could be the problem. how to make your own injector test kit. http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...l%3Den%26sa%3DN canyondust Oct 28 2008, 01:18 AM Post #6 1.8 HDI Exclusive Group: Members Posts: 1,134 Joined: 9-December 07 Member No.: 9,443 Tank pump should produce 7-8Bar into the filter housing. Preheat system I dont see has any great bearing on the current issue. The high pressure fuel regulator wont cause the engine to 'run on' as in theory your injectors at key off should all be closed. Monitoring the rail sensor (or from live data) during key on engine off, crank, idle, and say 2k may be worth doing out of interest to get some indication of the pump performance and possibly monitor the output pressure regulator. The issue sounds like an injector problem rather than anything else. Ideally looking at what is known as injector adaptations (this is the amount of delivered fuel (in mm3/stroke) each injector has to be adjusted from the map data to produce the correct crank acceleration - or in other words correct combustion) and can be taken from the diagnostic port. This could give a quick a and clear indication of a faulty injector(s). The leak back test is also very worth while and I would imagine most garages have the equipment - its essentilly 4 small bottle with tubes on that are connected to the leak back port on the injectors (so the normal black pipes are removed) - and the amount of fuel leaking back in a given time is measured and the balance observed. Also measuing the capacitance of each individual injector solenoid is another very worth while, yet quick and easy measurement. This will give a very good confidence check of the condition of the Piezo Electric solenoids. I would be amazed if it will fire at only 100Bar, I would like to see from a good pump around 200Bar after 1.5 to 2 revolutions and for it to sit nicely at 297Bar at idle. So to sum up - ensure adequate rail pressures, pressure regulator performance (open close ratio OCR), Injector Adaptiations, Leak Back, solenoid capactiance. I would hope from that the fault would be quickly diagnosed. Regards James.

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/items/__citroen-cv-...idZm270Q2el1313 I don't know why the transmission would have anything to do with it they all use the same cv joint whether its manual/auto/estate/saloon apart from the ones that dont have ABS :blink:

the timing belt is made of many very tough materials like carbon fiber and in most cases its not the timing belt that does the trouble most things iv seen are water pump/ tensioners/ loose bolts dropping on the belt track/ oil leaks in that area/ dust build up due to low maintenance the list is long but for it to go at 40k this would suggest a failed component rather than the belt, chains are the best but saying that vauxhall have been getting issues on its newer cars which are chain drive and its more expensive a repair than a timing belt because it causes much more damage, gates who make the belts and tensioners have done a lot with this problem and upgraded the materials because of vauxhall ( auto data says to change their belt at 75k vauxhall changed that to 35k ) now that puts fear into people when they do things like that and it didn't address the problem but they changed the belt twice as much and that's a cash earner when inferior parts are being fitted to the engines to save a few bucks

probably just needs new oil and filter and see if that sorts it failing that check the wiring to the oil sensor or change the sensor if it persists, it might be worth having the oil pressure tested because that would mean the oil pump is failing or the sump filter is obstructed and very common on Audi ( poor sods ) j/k

I still have a Citroen as well as a few oldies im working on restoration projects :rolleyes: but you can send me the images to techbod@live.com and ill keep them for reference when someone needs to know :o

check if its a call back issue ill check anyway.. hopefully it went ok on your journey but if it didn't then they have to fit another engine at their cost as for the engine warning light coming on because of the previous issue is total crap as they would have to reset the ECU to the new engine and if they didn't do that then they didn't do the job right in the first place. I think they should run a full diagnostic on your car and get a printout of the results to confirm if its ok to satisfy the customer ( talk is cheap ) and you cant use that against them if you need to go further

roof bars arnt diagnostic, 2cv do you still drive them :rolleyes:

40mpg at 90mph? ticket in process :rolleyes:

there is one fuse that over heats and its metal not like the other fuses when it cools it resets because its an over voltage problem ( the fuse doesn't need replacing as it will reset ) wow what a problem these cars are having over minor issues