techbod

crimp it with pliers but the proper tool is a flash spot welder which does not distribute heat along the wire and maplin also sell them, as I said ( do not solder it ) :lol:, to crimp the ends bend them round the wires at the end the compress them together with the pliers

the relay plate is above the main fuses and there are places for 13 depending on what the car has this is how they are laid out and relay 5 is the blower, 12-13-------------1-2-3-4 --------------------5-6-7-8 -------9-10. the resistor from maplin is the right one but doesn't belong in the part above its on a plate on the blower housing held in by one screw ( snip the resistor out and don't solder the new resistor in because it will blow it instantly because of the heat ) you need to crimp the ends to get a good connection. rough idea where it is http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tim.jenner/im...r_Position2.jpg this one shows where the resistor is atached http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/9229/re...01mediumgn5.jpg

it needs to be reset do you have a remote plip? do you know the code for the keypad? the default is 1111 and the code has to be entered to turn the immobiliser off or resetting the plip ( spare key in the ignition turn to position II then hold the flip withing 10cm to the receiver next to the rear view mirror the press the lock/unlock button then remove key from ignition and try the flip/remote to lock the doors

isn't that how haynes manuals look like :lol: j/k but seriously that link was just an idea on where to look for a free copy ;)

the P1336 is your problem. P1336 Crank/Cam sensor range/performance S2000PM1/2 - High misfire on several cylinders For TU5jp4 with ME7.4.5., check for Compression faults. I have witnessed, on more than one occasion, burnt exhaust valves very informative site here http://www.pikit.co.uk/peugeotmt/psa%20eob...odes.html#P13XX

excellent link there ill add that to my saves and order some to replace mine <_< I looked all over for that stuff and only place was USA

only safe thing I can think of is to unbolt the seat from the floor and once its out you have more room to find the problem without damaging the seat

when you join that site look for parts number 0290 03 3944 15 and see if thats the one

http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q...1W1GPTB_enGB296

I would and also check all the engine vents/breathers to make sure the system is breathing a blocked pipe causes lots of issues as the oil gets stuck in places so cant get round, I would do an engine oil flush then new oil and filter

the strip clips into the mold you can remove the chrome strip and clean it up I cleaned mine and put some aluminium tape over them better than £63 from the dealers as you have to buy the complete moulding <_< greedy dealers

im sure the handle just pulls of but check between the handle and the door card to see if it has a clip, the door strap is just a bolt off but thin hands might be helpful

try ebay I dont think you can buy parts for it just a full unit

just had a quick google and its the cam sprocket/cog and expensive £113 on ebay and that would effect the cam timing

very interesting but still the EGR sounds like you problem ill check out what the dephaser does, ok before the service? doesn't sound healthy for the garage that did it I would be onto them for that

its the first o2 sensor from the exhaust manifold and could be wiring short to earth or the sensor has had it

this might help with some problems http://www.myturbodiesel.com/images/misc/n...eliftsensor.JPG http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...v%3D2%26hl%3Den

no pictures im afraid cant even find a decent picy of the engine :) but its on the rear of the engine so you have to remove the plastic cover and look down the back near the manifolds, other issue could be it needs a new air filter or there is a blockage in the inlet from the filter side but the egr could cause it as well because you have let air into the system and as soon as you put the filter back on it clogs up again so an investigation is in order

sounds like the idle stepper motor on the throttle body common problem and cleaning the throttle boy out might help

yes it does have an EGR valve and cleaning it out is a good idea you should find it close to the exhaust manifold

without a fault code its very difficult to give an answer but its obviously electrical and fuel/rpm related so a guess would be the accelerator pedal position sensor or injector lift sensor

nice to know what it is and seen it on the VW diesel and always wondered what that was, I've never come across any problems with it though as long as it doesn't put any warning lights on :)

very possibly the last they made and escaped through the net which is not unusual because they had to use up the older engines but they were dropped in favour of the 2.0td which really doesn't mean a lot apart from the 2.0TD supposedly being a better engine if you believe that :)

72k, the 2.1td was ended in 1998

I don't know the part number but this might help its for the CX but the principle is the same http://tedperkins.com/suspension_leak_lines.htm