wozza

Mine had this but the i scrubbed it off with a toothbrush.

It'll work just wont have the steering controls without an adaptor which I think is £90 or there abouts. They work fine in the car though and there good units sound nice then again most alpines do.

not actually a space saver with a 205 profile as thats the same profile as the 17's on there now width ways. space savers are usually tiny its just a slightly smaller rim. So if a 305 profile tyre goes in there fine then a 17" alloy would probably fit in perfectly if you wanted one as a spare.

Happens in nice areas too was a load of cars going missing all performance vehicles so were probably filling an order out. Best way to nick it is with the keys so they just break into the house and take it that way. Happens in nice areas as well. They just dont care now.

Was someone held at gunpoint in his house for his civic type R keys. Be a pleasant wake up call.

Yeah but tints means the need to test it. Seeing a dodgy plate is just an on the spot fine.

If they want something they will get it. We have some massive metal gates on our drive we lock up. But if they decide they want the cars they would likely just come in the house and take the keys.

You already have locking nuts on your wheels. Should come as standard with them.

the law states that you can have anything rear of the B pillar. But the driver and passenger window and windscreen are allowed a 30% max tint which is what most of them come with out of the factory. Any darker and you can be asked to take it and get it tested and show its road worthy. Think its to around 50% lightness they do that if its too dark think 70% or so they give you the option of taking them off there and then or you dont continue to drive the car. But this is only on cars with near enough black tints. Basically front 3 windows should not be tinted the rears can be.

Id say no as they will likely pull you for the plates then notice the windows and do a check on them.

Depends on the model of Clio. Most do though.

Boot lid is still there by looks of it as the spoiler is still attached. You would think that would be one of the items to go really.

To do it properly expensive. More than a few hundred anyway. To do it good enough for most people...around £80 upwards id say to do the doors fully and run a lining in the boot. Will need to cover the boot floor in the stuff and anywhere else you can easily get to The kits which are like £15 for the doors for a couple small bits arent worth it. Better off getting a massive roll and covering the doors properly meaning inner section and outer section of the door and if possible more than 1 layer.

Well if you have been driving a while and your brakes have heated up. When you stick the brakes on holding them there theres enough pressure there to keep the wheel still. Now holding that pad there is insulating that section of the disc the pads are in contact with keeping it warm while the rest is cooling down. That can cause warping.

Well if you want another sub it means your gonna need a box and an amp or you can get an active sub still take up some boot room though. Depends how often you need the boot. I can still get the weekly shopping for 3 of us and a wheelchair in my car at the same time with someone on the back seat with my system in. So not that bad. And the size of the sub makes a difference as well it depends what kind of music you listen to as to what would suit you best. Smaller subs are good for a nice punchy style of bass. Use an 8" one in my home stereo but actually prefer the sound of the 12" in my car for the music I listen to which tends to be mainly rock / Metal where theres lots of bass guitar the 12" gives it a nicer warmer sound I find. Can fit them so they dont take up much room though just depends if you want to put some effort into creating a box or not. Could fit a 12 in the side of the boot and because it goes back a fair way you could get away with a rather slim box which would take up very little room. There also small subs you can get you can fit under your seats up front. Theres so many different things to look at id recommend going and having a listen to what you like as just buying something for the sake of it isn't a great thing to do if you find out you dislike the sound it produces. Head unit will more than likely mean your current system will need to be changed a bit. Again best off going and asking someone to have a look at it for you i have not seen how the standard system is integrated to be able to advise you of what you would or wouldn't lose. Sometimes fitting a new head unit means the stock sub etc stops working.

The thing is the majority of people wont say a thing to anyone. As well its nothing to do with them why should they care is the mentality but if it happened to them they would all be moaning about why no one saw them and did anything.

Course it is. But what parts are you wanting to upgrade?

Doesnt it bugger up the injectors if you put petrol in a diesel?

Next time your in a dealer have a look on the walls they will have similar notices so will most kwikfits etc. A few places wont even let you put new tyres on the front. Friend of mine had some new tyres fitted the other day they rotated them round and put them on the rear as well. http://www.michelin.co.uk/uk/auto/auto_cons_bib_pqr_neuf.jsp Think about it if your on a wet road and you aquaplane you will lose grip at the rear first if the tyres are half worn there. Where as the fronts will still be gripping resulting in you spinning. Where as if it was the other way round the front would of let go first resulting in understeer which is a little safer mid bend than spinning. It makes perfect sense if you actually think about what the cars doing and not what the front tyres are doing but the car as a whole. Yes the fronts have to steer and provide movement but the rear is what keeps you in place around a bend.

Well if you go into a hard bend if the front tyres are grippy it means the back end will brake traction first resulting in oversteer. If the front tyres brake traction it results in understeer which is safer to the average driver? Its the same for front and rear wheel drive. And a lot of places now should only let the car out with new tyres on the rear there supposed to only fit new tyres on the rear now.

Mike has the 2.0 petrol 138 engine. Think he commented earlier in the thread not sure.

New tyres should always go on the back anyway. Should never put new tyres on the front. Although you would think you should in a fwd car its the wrong thing to do. And can lead to the front end having grip and the rear not having grip.

Everyone I spoke to with Toyos said the same thing great in the dry but in the wet theres a good chance after a bend you could be pointing the wrong way.

Same mine always check the car over as well.

Stuey since you had the energy tyres on before on the 16's how much extra grip you noticed on the Exaltos and the 17's? I know mine tends to grip well but just curious how much of a difference it made since you have had both wheels and tyres etc and what kind of effects you have noticed changing to the bigger wheels.