paul.h

Before doing anything I would check the fault code again, just in case it is a different problem. Then if it is the dpf, in your position, I would remove it myself and clean it, so the cost would just be an afternoon and possibly a gasket. On one of the C5 sections there is a pinned topic of members able to help with diagnostic checks, so I would have look and see if any are near you. You might also double check the PAT fluid used was compatible with your car.

Welcome to the forum. Any help with problems is always appreciated.

If you are not getting 12 volts at the bulb holder then it must be a wiring problem since the high level light works. Since the high level and left light share the same wiring until it splits, then you know the problem for the left light must occur after the split. The right light has a separate wire from the fusebox (bsi) so any breaks in its wire can occur after the fuse box. The wiring probably runs along the passenger side sill from the fusebox to the back and then possibly under the rear edge of the roof or along the back of the boot to reach the right light. To do any checks needs a volt meter which I guess you do not have but they are only about £10 such as this from Maplins http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-domestic-multimeter-including-battery-bulb-and-fuse-tester-n20ax . Using a meter you would check for 12 volts at the fuse, at the bulb holder and then work back to the fuse to find where the wire has broken - or you could simply run a new wire from the fuse (or the battery) to the bulb holder to make sure the problem is the wire before spending too much time removing the sill covers and carpet to access the wires. If you need to pay somebody to do the work then a couple of hours labour is probably reasonable.

Seems as if all Citroen sat navs do not use post codes and some people prefer to use a Garmin despite having a Citroen sat nav.

The wiring diagram in the Haynes manual shows the high level light and the left light have the same supply from fuse 21 15 amp and the right light is supplied from fuse 20 10 amp, both in the glove box fuses. The brake light switch supplies all the lights through the fuses. All 3 lights have different earth points but these are also used by the other rear lights so are probably ok. If you put the side lights on and also the hazard lights, if the tail lights also dim a bit as the indicators flash then this suggests a bad earth connection. Is it possible one light stopped working and was not noticed until the other also stopped working ? When we had a 2003 C3 I replaced both rear lights due to damage but found that the old bulb holders were corroded (rusty) and that the foam seal was not that good at keeping water out. The new ones were from a dealer having tried used ones that were also not in good condition and new ones from eurocarparts did not fit the car well enough and on these the top slot for the nut was too narrow to be able to fit it. Also the dealer ones included the bulb holders and were not much different in price to the eurocarparts copy ones.

Do the other rear lights all work ? If the high level light is working and you have checked the bulbs are ok and even tried a new one, then check the electrical connector at each light is not corroded, the bulb holders are not corroded, the bulbs are not corroded, there is 12 volts reaching the bulb holder when the brake pedal is pressed with the ignition on and that the earth is good from the bulb holder back to the body.

Sometimes bad earth connections can lead to odd electrical faults, so maybe something to check later.

Were the new bulbs identical ones/same make ? Hopefully once the brake switch has been replaced the problem will be sorted.

I have yet to have a car that automatically does the GMT/BST hour change and have always needed to do it manually. From memory of our previous 2003 C3, it is done using the buttons at each end of the clock display, try holding one in to see if it then lets the other adjust the time. If your car has a trip computer (ours did not), a single button on the end of the wiper stalk can be pushed to change the display from average mpg since last reset to current mpg, miles to empty at current mpg, miles since it was last reset (done by holding in the button). I seem to remember on a low tank, at about 7 litres left and 1 bar on the level gauge, a warning light comes on near the gauge next to the petrol pump symbol and maybe a warning bleep is given. The fuel tank is about 45 litres (from the Haynes manual) so 1 bar is from just over 0 to up to 7 litres so if you get 30 mpg approx 7 miles a litre (automatic), then 1 bar will be up to about 50 miles.

On the C8 Technical section there is a pinned diagnostic topic on the Lexia with a lot of info from Simple. Edit 24/1/2016 I have started a new Lexia topic on the Petrol Diesel LPG section with links to all the posts from Simple.

When using axle stands at the rear, I leave the jack in place and put the axle stand under the metal tube that points down and is about 50mm diameter since there is no other suitable place if the suspension needs to hang down. At the front I put the axle stand approximately at a rear corner of the subframe, again leaving the jack in place.

From your test it appears the message is due to the bulbs. I do not know what the green light is. If fitting the old bulb back has given the message again then maybe the bulb needs replacing with a new one and it may help if the one at the other side is also replaced. The brake pad wear wire effectively earths the wire when the pads are worn down, so if there is a bad connection I suspect it would not give any warnings.

Welcome to the forum. A diesel without an exhaust particle file (dpf) would be ok as well as a petrol one but to get one without a dpf it may need to be around 7 or more years old. You may find a petrol one would be cheaper to buy and that a diesel one may never recover the extra cost in reduced fuel bills if only doing about 2000 miles a year. If you are going to use the car for towing then a diesel one will be heavier. Diesel cars can also have higher maintenance costs since they need more frequent oil changes and the fuel filter changes are more expensive. If going for a 1.6 hdi diesel they are prone to early turbo failure if the oil changes are not done frequently using the correct oil.

The temperature sensor will be the coolant one somewhere on the cylinder head/thermostat housing. The engine stalling when slowing down and using the clutch sounds like a problem of the throttle plate closing fully or needing cleaning to remove carbon build up. Was it a new throttle body that you recently put on the car ? For air leaks, with the engine running, you could try using a pipe against an ear and the other end move it around the air inlet ducting/manifold to see if you can hear anything.

An internet search suggests it could be both rear brake light bulbs may need replacing or possibly the brake light switch. You have not said the abs light is on so unlikely to be a problem with this. If the brake pads at the front are worn I think you get the Service light on. You can also check the brake fluid level and the handbrake switch.

It is probably then a problem of not having the right fuel mixture when on petrol so this leaves the temperature sensor, possibly the throttle plate/body but you have replaced this and air leaks as well as checking the fault code from the engine management light. You might also check at a Citroen dealer if the ecu has any updates that have been issued in case it is a software problem but since the problem has only been for the last 2 years this may not be relevant.

If you have to pay somebody to do the work for you then £100 does not seem too bad since it will take 1 hour or so to remove it, clean it and then fit it back. Only way to do it cheaper will be to do the work yourself.

If the engine management light is coming on have you had the fault code read since this may give a good indication of the fault ? May be you could do a compression test to see if the engine is worn or the valves are not seating and are leaking. Then check the valve clearances since these can be adjusted plus look at the cam shafts to see if they are worn.

Anti roll bar drop links when worn can be noisy over bumps. On our previous C3 they made a knocking noise. To test yours you could undo one end. If you put wd40 or similar into a ball joint that has grease in it, then the grease will be washed out and the joint will wear quickly unless you put some grease back in later.

If you register you need to tick the box for Other professionals except Emergency services etc. and then as a member of the Citroen Owners Club. If you read the terms and conditions you will see that members of a car club can register and this is the way it is done. This link takes you to the page to start the registration but you may need to select your language first http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres

Have you checked if it is coming from one of the auxiliary or timing belt pulleys ? Is it road speed or engine speed related ? Can you get the noise if you bounce the corner of the car up and down without the engine running ? If so then it could be one of the suspension arm pivot bushes or the swivel ball joints. If not then possibly brake related and the brakes may need cleaning.

The glove box handle seems to be a common problem and replacement metal ones are on such as ebay. The heated seats will be good to sort now the weather is starting to turn cold.

If you do not wish to register, the handbook can also be read/copied/printed in sections from here but you may need to select your language before your car http://service.citroen.com/ddb/ If you do register though you will also have free access to the parts diagrams (use your VIN(VIS) top left to select your car) and if you look at the left column under characteristics it will give you more info on your car such as the options fitted. If it has been serviced at a Citroen dealer they will have the service history on their computer system and may be able to print it out for you. If you register on My Citroen you will get limited info on the next service http://www.mycitroen.co.uk/MyCitroen/

Welcome to the forum. A list of what checks have already been done on the car would help but things that can affect running include: - wrong fuel/air mixture - an injector fault, air filter blocked, air leak, air flow meter/MAP sensor fault, fuel filter needs replacing, possibly a stretched accelerator pedal cable, throttle plate and body needs cleaning, worn cam shafts, wrong valve clearances. - spark plug or ignition coil fault. - worn engine so compression is low. - valve seats not giving a good seal. - temperature sensor faulty. - blocked exhaust. - engine timing is wrong - check the timing belt is installed correctly.

I can not comment on the 2010 C5 but all the Citroens we have owned have handled ok and I have not thought there was anything odd or bad about them. The C5 hydractive suspension at first will feel a bit different since it absorbs the bumps and feels as if it is floating along whereas a steel sprung car tends to pass on the bumps more. Our Citroens have been/are 2004 C5 hatchback, 2007 C5 estate, Xsara Picasso (this rolled a bit on bends), 2008/2011/2015 C4s, 2003/2010 C3s. One thing to listen for on the latest C5 is tyre noise if low profile tyres with 18 or 19 inch wheels are on the car. This is in Citroen's prcedures for changing the ATF fluid: CAUTION : The gearbox must be drained when the oil is hot (60 °C minimum), to eliminate the impurities suspended in the oil.N.B. : The oil change is partial, since the converter cannot be totally drained.