paul.h

The BBC news site have said the only cars affected are UK ones with manual air conditioning and that Vauxhall are writing to owners but are not doing a recall. They report the fires may be caused by fitting a none Vauxhall blower speed control resistor pack. Looking at your last topic you were thinking of getting a C5 tourer 2 years ago, did you do this or decide on a different car ?

If doing a diagnostic check for the gearbox, you may as well have other things checked such as the temperature sensors and air flow meter to ensure these are ok.

This Lexia topic from the C8 section may be of interest http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23088-anybody-found-a-diagnostic-scanner-that-works-on-citroen-c8-22-hdi/

What that company is doing is not allowed and would invalidate your insurance as well as causing pollution which the dpf is supposed to reduce. They are removing the insides of the dpf but leaving the shell behind to fool the MOT tester into thinking the dpf is still there. Also at about £480 it is a lot dearer than the new dpf at about £160 or cleaning your existing dpf by jet washing/soaking in an alkaline solution. With the dpf insides removed you would find the exhaust tail pipe would get covered inside with soot whereas now it should be clean metal and is a clue if the insides are not there. Their pictures also show they cut a big hole in the dpf shell and then weld it back, this would be a good clue that the filter no longer has its insides present. Others have reported that the insides are drilled through so that the shell is not affected in any way. If you do decide to have the dpf filter removed, you will need to tell your insurance company of the modification but it may be worthwhile asking them before having it done to see what effect it would have on your insurance since they may no longer want to insure the car. Supermarket fuels should be ok, I usually use Sainsburys since it is the local place. There are no longer BP or Shell refineries in this country so they buy their fuel like the supermarkets but possibly add a few additives.

Motorway driving style should be normal at 70 mph, no need to have higher engine revs at this speed. Also check the cabin fan works at all settings and not just at a high speed and the rear window and mirror heaters work. I read on another forum that during a dpf forced regeneration these are used to increase the load on the engine, so if not working they may give a fault code or possibly prevent the regeneration. During a forced regeneration at a dealer the engine will be run at around 4000 rpm but I would not think this is needed when driving. If you are going to remove the old dpf to fit a new one, why not just clean the old one and refit it to see if this works ? The dpf seems to be Citroen part no. 1731JT but you should check this using the car VIN. A new one is about £160 from this supplier but this is not a recommendation since I have not used them http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DPF-Diesel-Particulate-Soot-Filter-Exhaust-OEM-BRAND-NEW-1731JT-/371317820026 The correct oil is listed in the car Warranty and Maintenance service record book but is likely to be Total INEO ECS 5w30. This can be bought on-line and also a Citroen dealer will sell it. It is a full synthetic low saps oil and is around £26 for 5 litres but will be more from the dealer.

See if somebody comes up with a few ideas but if not changing gear until about 4000 rpm I would think that is about the limit for a diesel and for normal use changing up about 2000 rpm would be about right. There is little point in driving it like a petrol car since the torque on a diesel peaks around 2000 rpm so it will pull well around that. It might be possible that the boost is being backed off since the engine is at its rev limit. On the C5 if the speedo stops working it may be possible to repair it and this may also apply to the C8: 19. Speedometer stops working. The motor at the back of the speedo can be replaced to fix this - see http://www.citroen-o...ometer-repairs/

I guess you have seen this in the Common Problems topic and the topic linked in it 43. New C5 (X7) front wipers not working properly. Before replacing one of the 2 wiper motors, it may be possible to do a fix to the motor wiring pins - see this topic from c5vtr http://www.citroen-o...x7-wiper-motor/

Your last post does not read too well. The pump connection on the tank is where it is likely to block with mould so when you replaced the pump was this clear ?

That may help, but you will be using a lot of fuel to do it if it is not a motorway trip that you need to do. We've had dpfs on a few cars now and not had any bother with them but the cars have been low mileage, up to about 50000 miles and they were used each month for long motorway trips of about 120 miles each way. Once the dpf is cleaned, I would be considering long term to replace the car with a petrol or if you still want a diesel then get one without a dpf which should be possible up to about 2009 year. Our 2008 C4 did not have a dpf and was a 1.6 hdi 110 bhp, I also think the C4 2.0 hdi did not have a dpf. Only problem with the 1.6 hdi is they are prone to turbo failure but frequent oil/filter changes using the correct oil will help to prevent this.

You should also let it idle before stopping the engine so the turbo has slowed down before its oil supply is stopped.

Welcome to the fourm. Possibly the water tank connection is blocked, can you hear the pump running ?

Welcome to the forum. What trouble are you having getting it going ? Also please provide some info on the car - year, engine size, power output, diesel or petrol and has there been any work done on the car before the problems and any to sort the problems.

It may be worthwhile trying removing the fob battery and refitting it again and then doing the initialisation. A member with a C5 was having similar problems but then swapped the fob insides with the spare one and then they both worked. If this does not work you may be best going to a Citroen dealer since it could be a problem with the remote receiver on the car (or maybe a wiring problem such as between a door and the body) which could be built in to the steering wheel switch block but I am not sure. I would not bother with an auto electrician since they may not have the correct diagnostic tools and knowledge and there have been cases on here where this was a first choice for some members and then they were replacing ecu/bsi units and all sorts but still without fixing the problem.

Welcome to the forum. When replacing the fob battery the remote then needs to be initialised. It has the procedure in the handbook and will be something like put the key in the ignition, turn it so the dash lights up and then immediately push and hold down the lock button on the remote until the locks work which may be about 10 seconds. When replacement remote cases are bought, the old key blade can be used by opening the key half way and pushing out the roll pin that holds it in place. Then do the opposite to fit it to the new case.

The 2.0 hdi C5 (X7) vtr+ nav has standard shock absorbers and coil springs, the 2.2 hdi and the exclusives have the hydractive suspension. Make sure the coil spring has not broken and lost a coil. Check the shock absorber for leaks and do a bounce test, push down on that corner of the car and let go and it should bounce back up and settle once, any more (or less) and the shock absorber needs replacing. Compare it with the other side. To check it properly it may need disconnecting at the lower end. If it needs replacing the other side should also be done.

Welcome to the forum, which engine does it have ? If the 1.6 hdi you need to keep on top of the oil/filter changes.

Before the MOT changes happened February 2014 requiring a check for the presence of the dpf where one was fitted when the car was built, it was common practice to have the dpf insides drilled through or removed and the casing put back on and there are old posts on this forum on this. Then the ecu would be changed so the car does not see the dpf or the eolys system. Since then this is not allowed for cars used on the roads but you may find some people offer to do it for off road cars and charge a few hundred pounds. In your case if you are able, I would remove the dpf and clean it. If you do not have a jet wash then I am sure I read somewhere somebody took it to a garage car wash to do this.

You may find there are earth points at the door sides of the footwells, they are here on our C5.

Welcome to the forum. I suspect you do not have the car handbook. Ones from about 2007 can be seen/copied/printed (in sections) here and some of the things should still apply to your car http://service.citroen.com/ddb/ 1. I suspect this is to turn off the passenger seat air bag in case you have a child seat in the passenger seat. It is used with the car key and there should be a red sticker near it with Airbag Pass. on it. 2. I do not think that button did anything on our 2003 C3 either but on other models it can be used to set the auto lights. 3. S may be sport mode which may get it to change up a gear at higher revs than normal. The other button may be a snow/ice button which may get it to change up a gear at lower than normal revs. 4. This may be to prevent the rear doors and windows working from the back seats as a child security measure. 5. I am not sure about this one but this may be a speed warning button, try at a set speed pushing the button and then it may give a warning if that speed is then exceeded. The heater is simple enough. A dial to set the blower speed, a button to switch on the air con, a button to switch on the rear window heater, a dial to set the air temperature, a slide or button to set the air in to the car from the outside or to circulate the air internally, a dial to set the air flow out of different vents (windscreen/floor/dash vents).

Citroen mirrors already use convex mirrors so the field of view could not be increased, unless somebody has fit a replacement using a flat mirror. It should be normal practice to look over your shoulder and out the side windows for something in the blind spot but there are attachments to give a better view in the car blind spot http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/161333787366?adgroupid=13585920426&hlpht=true&hlpv=2&rlsatarget=kwd-123671535426&adtype=pla&ff3=1&lpid=122&poi=&ul_noapp=true&limghlpsr=true&device=c&chn=ps&campaignid=207297426&crdt=0&ff12=67&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff14=122&viphx=1&ops=true&ff13=80

If buying a code reader one that gives some live data will be more useful but it will not read data from other than engine sensors so would not read the dpf pressures - for that you would need a Lexia (have a look on the C8 section for info on the Lexia). This reader from Gendan seems good value at £38 https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT200.html

The Haynes manual just says to remove the cover to access the fuses but the RTA manual for left hand drive shows a white lever at the bottom right which is turned from the 12 o clock position to the 9 o clock position and then move the fuse board to the left and then the fuse board pivots down at the front.

If you are going to replace the gaiter then you may as well do the seals at the same time since you have the parts, Haynes says this can be done with the strut still on the car and that the piston is pulled out, but I do not know how easy that would be. A few extra things I noted when replacing the gaiter, - fit the clip to it before putting it on the strut, - mark the old gaiter and strut with tippex before removing to help with correct positioning of the new one, - a bit of grease on the piston rod helps the gaiter fit over the end of it, - after jacking up the relevant wheel hub and opening the bleed screw to let out lds fluid, it was then closed and the wheel hub lowered back down and the strut rod could then be moved by hand out of the socket without needing any tools.

If the gaiter is leaking then most likely the strut needs replacing since it is filling with oil leaking passed the strut seals. I had this a few years ago, replaced the gaiter following the Haynes manual but it did not stop the leak so I had wasted the cost of the gaiter/clip/lds fluid and an afternoon. You can buy the seals from Citroen but it does not guarantee a fix so a dealer would not offer this solution. Labour cost at a dealer is at most 1 hour to replace the strut and the parts costs are the same whether diy or dealer. If you diy replacing the strut you will need to buy a sphere removal tool at about £15, so knocking this off the labour cost it does not cost that much for a dealer to replace the strut. If you insist on replacing the gaiter the procedure is something like this: a few days before check if the R pin is loose - if not soak it in oil hoping it will free or it may need drilling out, you need to raise the car to max height, disconnect the battery (follow the procedure in the Common Problems pinned topic) so the pump does not run, slacken the lds tank cap to release the pressure, put the body (not axle) back end on axle stands (if you do not use axle stands when the bleed screw is undone both sides of the car rear will drop onto the bump stops squirting out fluid and waste a lot of lds fluid), put a cup under the rear bleed screw, note on the new gaiter the vent hole positions and I seem to remember a square bit where the clip goes and note these on the existing gaiter so it is positioned correctly, remove the R pin, crack open the rear bleed screw and then jack up the wheel of the leaking strut - lds fluid will then drain out, once the wheel is high enough it should be possible to remove the strut end out of the axle socket, close the bleed screw, remove the old gaiter and strut end, change the gaiter, grease the socket, fit the R pin, lower the wheel, remove the axle stands, fit the tank cap, connect the battery, run the engine, raise/lower the suspension, check/top up the lds level.

You would have got the warning on the motorway due to the higher engine speed and the filter is probably blocked. To understand this, the filter inlet and outlet pressures are measured and when the inlet pressure reaches a high value the warning is given. As the filter blocks up the inlet pressure will rise but at higher engine speeds the exhaust gases increase in volume giving a higher pressure, so the warning is more likely at higher speeds than at lower ones. If you clean the filter you probably will not get the warnings for quite some time until the ash levels build up again. It is also possible the sensor that measures the pressures could be faulty but to check this would need a diagnostic check.