paul.h

You can usually get a good idea if your lights are pointing too high by stopping on a level road with a brick wall several metres in front. See what height the beam is on the wall and check that it is a bit lower than the centre of the headlights. If you move the car back a bit more the height on the wall should lower.

Some of the C5s use an electric pump for the power steering so if the battery proves to be ok and the lds fluid level is ok, then you could check its electrical connector and wiring.

If you wanted to test compatability of different materials, you could try one of each in some lds fluid for a few days and see if they change size or go soft.

The Haynes manual shows 2 adjusters on the headlights. One on the top and one on the back. Often these need an allen key to turn them. It does not say which does the vertical or sideways adjustments.

Looking to the future, if most of your trips are going to be round London then you will be better with a petrol engine since these do not have a dpf that can block up. The diesel may be giving better fuel economy, but you are likely to be losing it having to drive in a low gear to try to clean the dpf plus you are spending money trying to clean it.

What power output is the engine ? The radiator fan will always come on if the air con is being used so something to check. If the air con is not being used then you should use a code reader that gives live data to see what temperature the sensor is giving and helping to decide if it is giving expected values (eg about 10°C before starting the car first time of the day, about 90°C when the thermostat opens). Typically the fan will cut in at 96°C and then cut out when 2°C lower. The fan may be a 2 speed one with the higher speed if the temp continues to rise. On the 1.4 petrol engine there are 2 temp sensors, one for the gauge on top of the cylinder head and one to give warning of a high temp on the side of the cylinder head. You can also make sure the radiator is not blocked and that the thermostat is opening before the fan starts (keep hands, etc out of the way) without using a code reader. Having to top up the coolant at your frequency is not normal, you need to look for any leaks and check the coolant tank cap is on good condition (an O ring on it seals against the inside of the tank neck).

I am unable to recommend anyone but if it is a cylinder (strut) that is leaking then likely it will need a new one. The labour time to replace these is not long (probably under an hour) so whether using an independant or a Citroen dealer the cost difference is unlikely to be much since the parts/LDS fluid prices will be the same.

Yes, we need to know what year is your C3 and which engine does it have, petrol or diesel and size and power output. If it is the 1.4 petrol 75 bhp engine, there is a bleed point on the heater hose on the engine side of the bulk head and also there is one on the gearbox end of the cylinder head which might need an allen key to undo it. These are shown on 1A.15 in the Haynes manual 2005 version for the C3.

If you are doing mainly slow trips round London that could be causing the dpf to block up. Some people remove them and water jet them to remove the ash that builds up and then fit them back.

Looks as if there is a case here for anyone with a 2008 on C5 to seal the wiper motor as part of preventive maintenance. I will pin this topic.

There are a few things to try here but ignore disconnecting the car battery since if it is disconnected/reconnected too quickly it does not give the bsi time to shut down and can lead to odd electrical problems. http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-a-Stuck-CD-from-a-Car-CD-Player

Welcome to the forum. If the marks are on the surface of the glass it might be possible to polish them out with a glass polishing compound. If it is between the layers of glass and the glass is delaminating then a new windscreen may be needed. You could try a windscreen repairer to see what they recommend.

Check with a resistance meter connected between the bulb holder outside and the car body and see if there is continuity - ie no resistance (0 ohms) to show the earth connection from the bulb holder is good. If it gives a high resistance than you need to check the wiring from the bulb holder to the car body earth point to see where it is broken and that the earth point is not rusty and the electrical connectors pins are good/clean.

It may pay you to remove the dpf and clean it. Some people have used a jet wash to remove the ash that builds up and there are companies who will clean it chemically or with a high temperature oven but they may charge as much as a new dpf.

You could have a look at the pipe and see if it has softened. Also get somebody to rev the engine and see if it does collapse whilst you watch it.

A quick indication would be to see what size fuse supplies the interior lights. You are going to add an extra 21 watts and at 12 volts that is nearly 2 amps extra.

Your posts 5 and 7 seem to contradict each other. Post 5 says there is power at the bulb holders but post 7 says power is off at the bulb holders.

It could be any of the sensors that can affect the exhaust emissions such as the MAF, a cam sensor, fuelling fault, lambda sensor fault, dpf fault or its pressure sensors, blocked fuel filter, speed sensor. Only way to see which is by the diagnostic check on the fault code, any other way could involve replacing lots of bits until you get to the actual one.

So if you have 12 volts at the brake light board which I assume you mean the bulb holder in the rear light, then you need to check if the bulb holder is corroded giving a poor bulb connection and then if there is an earth for the bulb holder. Also check you are looking at the correct bulbs in the light - on one of our Citroens, the stop lights were not the combined 5/21 watt bulbs but were separate 21 watt bulbs with the 5/21 being tail light and fog light.

Did the service include air and fuel filter changes ? Possibly the coolant temperature sensor is giving a wrong value so the fuel ratio is not correct but to check it would need live data using a code reader. Being a pre 2004 diesel you may find low cost code readers may not work on your car so if you have one or plan to buy one you need to check if it will work. Other things that work when the engine is warmed are the egr valve and lambda sensors.

This latest 5 litres have given you 56 miles, so 51 mpg this time. Are you still driving round London ? What mpg is the trip computer showing ? What mpg did your last car give you for similar trips and was that a diesel or petrol ?

Seems odd, maybe the switch is being earthed through one of the bulbs and there is an earthing problem. Earth points are often located at the side of the footwells.

If your calcs were accurate to the number of litres used, then 4 bars are 20 litres and 4.546 litres are 1 gallon. So 146 miles using 20 litres (4.40 gallons) gives 33 mpg. So doing the calcs again has gained you 4 mpg. However, I would still do the calcs again once you fill the tank back up and use the amount of fuel put in.

If your calculations are based on the bars on the level gauge, I would wait until you fill up again and see how much you can get in the tank to get it full up again as when you started the calcs. I do not know how many bars there are but if say there are 10 bars for 60 litres, then 1 bar could be about 6 litres but it could be 0 to 6 litres for the bar to be lit or go out. eg 4 bars have gone out could be just over 12 litres up to 24 litres.

Welcome to the forum. The parts diagrams show 3 bolts holding the starter to the bellhousing, 2 at the top and 1 at the bottom with possibly 1 of the top ones being removed from the gearbox side of the bellhousing depending on which version of the 1.6 hdi you have. The following is slightly modified from Citroen's procedures and this might suggest more than 3 bolts. Remove :The engine coverThe battery style coverDisconnect the battery.Remove :The batteryThe air inlet ducts at the side of the engineThe battery supportRemove the 2 fixings of the engine harness over the starter motor area and move aside the engine harness Remove the upper fixing of the starter motor.Raise the vehicle. Remove :The nuts holding the cables to the starter motorMove aside the starter motor supply harness.Remove :The 2 screws of the lower fixing of the starter motor holding it to the bellhousingThe starter motor