paul.h

Welcome to the forum. Can you hear the noise with the car parked and the bonnet up whilst somebody revs the engine ? If you use the air con does the noise change as the compressor clutch pulls in/out ? Does the noise change if you turn the steering wheel ? Somebody recently described a noise as a chirp which was a leaking injector to cylinder head seal so you could remove the engine cover and have a look/listen at the injectors.

It has not been mentioned on here before as far as I can remember. Possibly the top mounting has failed. I had to replace one on our 2003 1.4 petrol C3 after the coil spring was replaced, during this the bearing in it was damaged and was then noisy. If there is a hole in the bodywork it may need to be welded up to pass the MOT.

One advantage of raising the suspension before using the jack is the car does not need to be raised much more since the suspension does not extend as it would on cars with springs and shock absorbers.

Brilliant, it was one of those jobs where the saving in labour costs was not that great to warrant all the agro of doing the job yourself. Feel free to recommend the garage since there will be others who will need this work doing in the future.

Interesting question but if the height sensors are not in the right position for the button setting, you may find the suspension will continue to try and adjust itself. The wheel you want to change would not raise itself off the ground as the suspension lowered since it relies on the weight of the car pushing through the wheel on the ground to force the lds fluid out of the struts. There have been reports some time ago of people who jacked up the car without raising the suspension to max and then on lowering the car off the jack were left with suspension problems.

If changing the steering wheel controls did provide the trip computer, you would also need to fit the type B screen which has a larger display area and then do a diagnostic check to tell the car it has a trip computer. There are a few different part numbers for the type B screens depending on the car RPO number and what features the car has. However, unless anyone says that fitting these will work or a dealer does, then it may be best to assume it would not work.

Welcome to the forum. I think that under the rear left wing is the alarm and I vaguely remember (but I could be wrong) that if its battery is no good then it may cause the main battery to go flat as it tries to charge it - the parts diagrams though do not show a separate battery for it. A dealer could do a diagnostic check on it to see if it has a fault. The handbook for our 2007 C5 does not list the alarm fuses but in the RTA French manual it lists the dash fuse box fuses F4 20 amp includes the alarm, F5 15 amp does the alarm siren and tyre pressures, F7 15 amp does an after production alarm - however these could be wrong. You could try removing these to see if it makes a difference or remove each fuse and connect an ammeter in place to see what current is being drawn. As a guide, our C5 uses about 15 mA with nothing awake, plus the same again if the tow bar electrics fuses are in place - combined these are enough to flatten the battery in about 3 weeks if the car is not used. If not done already, it may help to find the fault if the boot inner wing plastic trim is removed and then have a good look around and also check any earth points are tight and there are no loose/damaged wires that may be touching the metal body and shorting out. If you have a tow bar you can also try removing its fuses in case that has a fault. The electrics for our tow bar are located in the left side of the boot behind the plastic panel and include smart relays. If you have a mobile phone or sat nav connected these can also help to flatten the battery. When you park the car leave the front wheels pointing ahead since if to one side it could cause the suspension to go up and down and run the pump.

Was anything done to fix the low fuel pressure ? For the humming noise - have a look at the air inlet and the pollen filter in case they are blocked/have leaves in them.

Our 2007 C5 has a dash mounted radio/satnav that has a rotating button but I have not seen one with controls near the handbrake. Just some guesses but probably already tried: On the controller near the handbrake, have you tried holding down the menu button for a few seconds to see if it brings up anything. Also using the rotating knob, once on a screen, if you push down on it to select that screen, does it then bring up further options that you could rotate through and select by pushing down again ? In the end you could try a Citroen dealer to do a diagnostic on the radio system but perhaps you should go back to the dealer you bought the car from first as a not working or warranty item. It is also possible the replacement controller switch if not new could have the same fault as the old one. If it is Citroen part no. 656390 then a new one is about £66 from a Citroen dealer and just the knob if part no. 656361 is about £6.

Welcome to the forum. We had a 2003 1.4 petrol SX C3 and that did not have a trip computer but I did not try to add one so I do not know if it is possible. The door mirrors were adjusted electrically but had to be folded by hand and were not heated.

The LDS suspension fluid is pumped from a tank on the right wing to the front and rear struts to maintain the car's height. To check its level in the tank the car should be lowered to minimum height, the engine switched off, the tank cap carefully removed since there will be some air pressure to release and then the fluid level should be just covering the bottom of the filler neck. If the level is low it should only be topped up using fresh LDS fluid, a Citroen dealer will sell it for around £11 a litre. You can do a quick check for leaks by looking at the front struts through the wheel arches and at the rear ones by looking under the car.

Welcome to the forum. On most Citroen's the menu button on the radio is used to change the language and settings.

Our C5 has a manual gearbox and when letting the clutch pedal up the front/back height may move a bit as the biting point is reached.

The rack must be supplied with it turned to the right. If not happy with this, you could turn it from lock to lock and count the number of turns of the shaft and then set it half way so it is straight ahead - otherwise you could end up with the steering wheel in the wrong position when going straight ahead. I would also check the number of turns on the existing one before starting. I would suspect though it is easier if it is done with the wheels straight ahead so you can keep the steering wheel in the straight ahead position, which I think is the usual way when replacing a rack. A look in the Haynes manual for the 2001 to 2008 C5 gives a very similar procedure for removing the rack involving removing the subframe and this starts with the wheels straight ahead.

Welcome to the forum. From your description it is not clear what has been damaged plus you have not given enough details of your car - year/model/engine size and power output. The front coil springs often snap. This picture shows what it looks like https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=citroen+C3+front+suspension+strut+picture&hl=en-GB&rlz=1T4DKUK_enGB242GB242&tbm=isch&imgil=NUuKOnS3T3OFtM%253A%253BGFRaobFozo48EM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.mk3oc.com%25252Fforum%25252Fshowthread.php%25253F48385-Suspension-still-knocking&source=iu&pf=m&fir=NUuKOnS3T3OFtM%253A%252CGFRaobFozo48EM%252C_&usg=__OhPZZPzGSUSeNo-lcOqlLlVSn1A%3D&biw=1208&bih=814&ved=0CDgQyjc&ei=qreQVL7VMoLY7Ab1t4DYDA#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=NUuKOnS3T3OFtM%253A%3BGFRaobFozo48EM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fi794.photobucket.com%252Falbums%252Fyy224%252Fjayc20xe%252Fsuspension.png%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.mk3oc.com%252Fforum%252Fshowthread.php%253F48385-Suspension-still-knocking%3B880%3B910 If you look at this and if you need any help then get back to us.

Used parts for the 2008 on C5 seem to be in short supply leaving only Citroen dealers and new parts. Internet searches do not seem to show anything available. A bare tailgate (8701Y1) in primer is about £500 from Citroencarparts.net and there is one on ebay for £380 but it would need all the parts and glass and painting.

I hope Parkesie will say the rack can be removed with the subframe in place. I have just found the procedure for it and it adds a lot of possibly unnecessary work. Depending on the engine, the exhaust may need removing, it needs disconnecting from the front extension part of the subframe 65 Nm, from the steering pipes, possibly a couple of electrical connectors near the left steering rack gaiter, from the suspension hub swivels 75 Nm, possibly the front anti roll bar bearings 45 Nm, removing bolts at the sides 140 Nm and the rear 140 Nm (but yoke parts to body are 100 Nm) and then it may be heavy to lower down.

It is possible the carpets are still wet underneath so until they dry out the windscreen freezing inside may continue. If this is the cause, then it will help if the carpets can be lifted to remove the underlay so it can be dried. Also check if the driver's side footwell gets wet when it rains since this is a problem on the mark 1 C5 where rain can get inside. I would also check the anti freeze level is not dropping due to a leak - if the cabin heater matrix is leaking this will wet the carpets. If you use the air con make sure its drain is not blocked by looking underneath the car for a wet patch below the driver's seat. I would also check in the boot wheel well in case it is raining in. If you find the car is dry inside, it may be the car was a bit steamed up or it was a damp day when last used so as the car cooled down it condensed on the windscreen and then froze.

From your other posts I believe you have a 2004 auto diesel, so I guess this will be a facelift C5 (2004 to 2008) with the 2.2 hdi 136 bhp engine. The Mityvac test I suspect may have been a vacuum test for leaks on the sensor hoses or possibly to get the sensors to work and maybe check the turbo waste gate/variable vanes work. However, from things I have read, it may be possible the problems are caused by a split in the vacuum hoses to any of the sensors so you could check each hose and the hose ends on the sensors for any splits - just in case this was missed by the specialist. The first faults noted can be caused on the 2.2 hdi 136 bhp engine by a plastic joint that fails near the gearbox end of the cylinder head on the swirl flap actuator or possibly its diaphragm failing - these are a common problem so your specialist should have noticed this. The actuator with the plastic joint is only about £20 but you can see if it works when the engine is switched on since the arm will move. The wiring referred to is likely to be between the engine and the ecu/fusebox area so you could have a good look at all this for any damage. Check that your fuel cap has 2 magnets in it which tell the car fuel is added when it is replaced after filling up so it knows to add the eolys fluid to the fuel tank.

I think I would go for the replacement rack if it is a reconditioned one (do not bother with one from a scrap yard) since replacing the seals may not give a guarantee of a repair if there is any damage to the sealing surfaces. This topic http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20872-power-steering-leaking-fluid/?do=findComment&comment=75684 shows what the input shaft may be like if it has rusted so once cleaned up it may not give a good seal and there may also be a wear groove where the seal contacts it. On top of the parts cost for a replacement rack will be the cost of tracking at a garage and the fluid. Parkesie diy replaced his rack so may give a few details or, if you can get a dealer/garage to do it for not much more than the tracking cost it may be worth considering this option. The following is an edited Citroen's procedure: Disconnect the battery.Pinch the power-steering pump supply pipe, using tool [4153-T].Remove the ignition key.Lock the steering wheel.Lift and support the vehicle with the wheels free.Remove the front wheels. Remove : The trim under the fascia.On the steering universal joint - Separate the tongue and remove the nut and its pin.Detach the steering universal joint by moving aside the safety clip. Remove the track rod end nuts on each side.Uncouple : The steering track rod end swivel joints using the ball joint extractor [1892-T] (on each side). CAUTION : Plug the inlets and outlets of the hydraulic circuit to prevent any penetration of contaminants.Remove pipe retaining bolt on the rack.Uncouple the pipes from the steering valve.Remove the front subframe with the steering rack. Remove :The nuts holding the rack to the subframeThe shims from the steering rack and then remove the steering rack.3. RefittingCAUTION : Always fit new Nylstop nuts.CAUTION : Adhere to the tightening torques.CAUTION : Replace the "o" ring seals on the pipes (if you can get them !).Position the steering rack on the front subframe and fit the nuts 140 Nm. CAUTION : For vehicles fitted with a steel subframe, check visually that the steering mechanism is in contact with the subframe.Refit the front subframe.Recouple the pipes (according to assembly).Refit the pipe retaining screw 8 Nm. CAUTION : For vehicles not fitted with a washer between the track rod boot and the steering arm, fit a washer (Component with a Part No., to be ordered separately from the parts catalogue).Couple up : The steering track rod swivel joints.Refit :The track rod nuts 48 NmThe steering shaft universal joint, the nut 20 Nm and its pinThe trim under the fasciaRemove the tool [4153-T].Fit the wheels.Tighten the wheel bolts.CAUTION : Perform the operations to be carried out following reconnection of the battery.Reconnect the battery.Fill and bleed the power steering hydraulic circuit.Check the front wheel tracking and adjust it if necessary.

Which engine do you have - petrol or diesel and bhp power since so far it is not in any of your posts ? If it has an electric pump in the fuel tank these can fail without warning when the car is next needed to start - I had it on a petrol Saab and the RAC checked it by starting the car on easy start and then checking for a 12 volt supply at the pump.

Rear brake squeal is usually a result of corrosion between the brake caliper and the suspension arm, hence the topic on removing the rear brake calipers so it can be cleaned off. When it gets really bad the caliper has been pushed out so that it can catch the wheels.

Resetting the service indicator is easy and is covered in the handbook so you can do it yourself. The button on the speedo is held in and then the key in the ignition is turned so the dash lights up. The numbers will then count down to =0 and then you let go of the button. Make sure your garage uses the correct oil, your maintenance handbook will give the correct one but is likely to be Total Ineo ECS 5w/30 due to the dpf needing a low ash oil. Citroen dealers sell it for around £35 for 5 litres. There are pinned notes on the Problems and Fixes section on replacing the front brake pads and removing the rear brake calipers if you are having the brakes cleaned.

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum. You could check to see if the wiring between the door and door pillar is damaged in the rubber sleeve. Do the locks all work using the dash lock button or when above about 6 mph if set to auto lock (usually achieved by pressing the dash button for a few seconds, possibly needing the engine on) ? If nothing is found then a trip to a dealer may be needed for a diagnostic check.