paul.h

As a first step I would check the air filter is clean and then clean the throttle body and plate using something like carb cleaner or white spirit since this can affect low engine speed.

Welcome to the forum. We have had a few Citroens over the last 9 years and I have been impressed with them. Reliable, low cost, decent quality, do not rust and the C5 one of the more comfortable cars and good for towing. After some time you may end up using your C5 more than the other cars.

We have a caravan and it is nice once you are there and everything is set up, but up to that point it can be a bit of hassle/agro/stressfull/etc. Then it has to be repeated on the way back.

You seem to need a lot of fluid to raise the level a bit since the tank is wide/long. There is about 5 litres of fluid so to drain/refill would be £60 to £75 depending on where it was bought. Possibly new fluid improves the ride if the old stuff degrades a bit.

With all that lot you could really do with it connecting to a Lexia diagnostic machine, otherwise it will all be guesswork. On one of the C5 sections there is a pinned list of members who are able to help with diagnostics. On the C5 Technical section there is a pinned list of common problems that may be worth a look. Jump starting another car can give problems, low battery voltage can give errors and prevent starting if the engine does not spin fast enough, quick disconnection/reconnection of the battery can give errors, the pollution fault on the 136 bhp 2.2 hdi could be the swirl flap actuator at the left end of the cylinder head plastic cup connector breaking, it could also be related to the exhaust particulate filter, the apparent brake problems (abs/esp/brake) could possibly be a brake light switch or an abs sensor. Cutting out once warm could also be things like the crank position sensor. I am sure other members will come up with things to try.

Welcome to the forum and thanks for the info. There is a special procedure for the crankshaft bolt which seems to involve slackening and tightening to get it undone: The crankshaft pulley bolt has on its thread an adhesive which activates on tightening. This adhesive makes the assembly of the crankshaft belt drive pulleys safe.On slackening, particles of adhesive could possibly accumulate in significant quantities in the threads, thus rendering the operation particularly difficult and also possibly leading to the bolt breaking inside the crankshaft.It is important to keep to the slackening procedure so that the operation will succeed. 3. Slackening procedureCAUTION : Use of an impact wrench is prohibited : Risk of the bolt breaking inside the crankshaft.CAUTION : Keep to the method "Removing - refitting : Associated timing belt". 3.1. Slackening at the correct torqueCAUTION : The flywheel immobilisation tool must be in place.Slacken the bolt using a wrench (Do not exceed 1 turn).CAUTION : During the slackening, make sure that the resisting torque does not exceed 200 Nm; By using a reversible torque spanner.Slackening the bolt :Unscrew the bolt ; Monitor the resisting torqueIf the effort increases, redo up and then renew the slackening (More than once if necessary)Alternately repeat the above operations until the bolt is completely slackenedN.B. : As the slackening effort increases, it is important to retighten fully so as to spread the adhesive which has accumulated in the threads.CAUTION : Stop the operation if the slackening effort is too great (greater than 200 Nm). Go to the next section. 3.2. Slackening with heating of the boltCAUTION : The heat of the gun can damage the rubber sealing on the ancillary drive pulley. Do not exceed 4 minutes of heating.Heat the head of the bolt for 4 minutes ; Using a hot air gun fitted with a small calibre adaptor.CAUTION : Monitor the slackening torque, using the torque spanner, do not exceed 200 Nm.Undo the bolt immediately.Repeat the operation for 1 minute if the slackening effort still remains too great. 4. Checked - CleaningCAUTION : Check the state of the rubber sealing on the ancillary drive pulley. Check the state of the target of the engine speed sensor. Replace parts that are damaged.Always replace the bolt if the slackening torque reached 200 Nm.Clean (M14 x 150 tap) :The threadThe tap

I have looked at our car, a mark 2 C5 2007 estate and the fixings are different. There are mostly nuts on the outside edge fastening to studs welded to the floor but on the inner parts the buttons are a plastic type with a central bit that pushes in but to see what they go in to would need the undertray removing. From the parts diagrams and using the RPO no. they have a part no. 856553 and the picture shows a metal cage that the button pushes in to. An internet search on the part no. though just shows the plastic button, so maybe it just pushes in to a hole in the chassis and expands to stay in place http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-C2-C3-C4-C5-C6-DISPATCH-BERLINGO-DS3-WHEEL-ARCH-LINER-CLIPS-X-10-856553-/360672269281 . For an earlier RPO no but still the mark 2 C5 (up to RPO 11034) the part is 7013V8 and it still shows the cage. I think you would be better using the parts diagrams with your VIN to see which part numbers are actually used on your car, but checking the parts diagrams for a mark 1 C5 gives the ones previously mentioned, so maybe you have the rivet 7013V8 parts and not the ones you got from ebay which may be for an earlier year C5. These parts do not seem to be on such as ebay so you will need to use a Citroen dealer who will ensure the correct parts are supplied

The RPO is the car identification no. It can be found on the door sticker that has the tyre pressures and paint colour no. It will also be in the car maintenance book at the front and if you have any receipts from a Citroen garage for servicing, it will be there. To find the holes in the car I will need to have a look under mine next time I use it. I remember seeing them at the back bumper, the square bits going in to the body and then the button going through the plastic undertray to hold it in place.

On our C3 the paint layer under the laquer was not smooth and then I suspect it had been caught and damaged. Once the laquer is damaged rain can get underneath and then it just starts lifting and spreading. I had it previously on a Saab. It can also be caused by poor painting when new. Whether it is common on Citroens, we will have to see if anyone else replies.

A few notes to help anyone wanting to clean the rear brakes or replace the brake pads. The new C4 from 2010 rear brakes are similar to the previous model which is covered by a Haynes manual. TRW brakes are fitted. The caliper is held to the carrier by bolts and guide pins needing a 13 mm socket and open ended 15 mm spanner 35 Nm. The procedures say the removed bolts should be renewed each time but no reason is given - they were found to have loctite on so possibly that is the reason but they are 10.9 high tensile bolts so unlikely to be stretched and did not look damaged. However, not having new bolts I used the old ones and applied fresh loctite. New bolts are supplied with new pads. The carrier is held on the hub by bolts possibly needing a torx bit 30 Nm plus a further 35°. The wheel bolt torque is 100 Nm for alloy wheels and 90 Nm for steel wheels. The caliper brake hose is a steel braided type with a rubber protective sleeve and may not like being bent/twisted too much. Some cars have an electric handbrake which requires the battery to be disconnected at the start but after fitting all the parts, the battery to be reconnected and then using a diagnostic tool (Lexia) the handbrake has to be calibrated, fault codes read and cleared, the handbrake control activated and then checked it works. Our C4 has a manual handbrake so the following is based on that. - apply the handbrake, put the car in first gear, chock the opposite rear wheel, jack up the relevant corner of the car and support on an axle stand. - remove the wheel (use the yellow plastic tool to pull off the wheel bolt plastic chrome covers). - check the brake disc thickness - if worn below its limit then new discs are needed. Our car discs were 9 mm new, minimum 7 mm but other cars may be different. - check the brake pad friction material thickness - if less than about 4 mm new pads are needed. - release the handbrake and check the car is still well supported. - use a screwdriver to move the caliper handbrake lever so the handbrake cable end can be removed from the lever. On the cable next to the cable support bracket is a black plastic ring that needs to be pulled off, then pull the cable out of the support. Put the ring back on the cable so it is not lost. - unclip the brake pipe from the abs sensor cable and from the next clip along. - undo the caliper lower guide pin bolt 13 mm socket and use an open ended 15 m spanner to stop the guide pin turning. - lever up the caliper off the pads and then pull out of the top guide pin hole (or if preferred the top bolt can be removed but this way saves having to replace 2 bolts). Cover the guide pin and hole to keep dirt off/out. Suspend the caliper from the top of the shock absorber using string/wire/welding rod through the caliper lower bolt hole. - remove the pads and their sound deadening shims from the caliper. The pads and shims have rubber backings that suffer from use and new shims are supplied with new pads. In my case the pads and shims were ok to re-use after cleaning. - clean everything up (pads, caliper, carrier, shims, bolts), remove the glaze from the disc using such as 180 grit emery paper, scrape off any loose rust from the disc edge, wipe the disc with brake cleaner, place emery paper on a flat surface and then rub the brake pad friction side on it to remove any glaze. - if new pads are being used, turn clockwise (applies to both sides of the car) and push the caliper piston in. It may be better to release the excess brake fluid via the bleed screw rather than push it back in to the braking system. Make sure the brake fluid reservoir does not overflow. - fit the noise reduction shims to the carrier. - apply a smear of copper grease to the pad/caliper/shims/guide pin contact faces but not on the pad friction material or disc - a bit of card held between the carrier and disc should stop any going on the cleaned disc whilst doing this. The pads have a rubber type backing but a bit of copper grease will also help prevent squeal. - fit the pads to the carrier and put the caliper back in place, making sure the brake hose has not been twisted - also check its condition, and the guide pin rubber sleeves are not twisted or damaged. - fit the caliper new bolt(s) 35 Nm or consider using the old ones with fresh loctite. - clip the brake pipe back to the 2 clips. - use the brake pedal in short strokes until the pedal goes hard to push the piston out so the pads contact the disc. - refit the handbrake cable, reversing the removal and check that the caliper lever to stop clearance is 0.1 to 1.0 mm and the handbrake starts to work at one notch, with full on by 5 notches. - clean up the hub and wheel contact faces and apply a smear of copper grease to prevent corrosion/wheel sticking to the hub. - check the tyre for nails/etc and then fit the wheel 100 Nm alloy or 90 Nm steel wheels. - remove the axle stand, lower the car, remove the jack, check the wheel bolts are torqued up and then fit the bolt plastic chrome covers. - if new pads are installed then these will take a few miles to bed in. Before then the brakes will not be fully effective.

When using emery paper, it is normal to use it wet and maybe with a sanding block - so I usually keep dipping it in a bucket of water.

Citroen standard for keys for the C4, Xsara Picasso and new C3 (but not C5) seems to have become one remote key and one key without the remote but both have an internal chip for the immobiliser so the doors can be unlocked with the key, and the engine started. If you need a second key without the remote locking (as given by the dealer to have cut) it would still need the right immobiliser chip to work. Inside a remote key, is a small circuit board for the remote and a battery plus the immobiliser chip - these things and the key blade are all moved to a replacement case that is about the £5. On some remote keys the immobiliser chip may be part of the circuit board.

Welcome to the forum. On the home page is a link to the Picasso forum which is worth a look and joining and you are more likely to get help from many people with the same car. I am assuming your car is a Xsara Picasso. The parts diagrams show the central vents come as part of the surround but I would guess if your control knob has come off that it probably just pulls off - so a scrap yard may just let you remove the knob. The dash is quite large and it may be worth a look that there is not something hidden on top of it. To see if it is something sliding in a vent you could try with the blower on max and see if the noise changes. Other than these simple things, it may be best to ask on the Picasso forum since it may be a common thing.

Welcome to the forum. Our 2003 C3 had laquer peeling off the back bumper but I left it and would vacuum off the loose bits since the colour was not affected and the plastic bumper would not rust away. I did touch up some parking marks on the front bumper using spray paint (primer, colour, laquer) from a car accessory shop and got good results. If you want to do a quick fix, use a laquer spray from a car accessory shop after removing the loose bits, very gently rub the area down with something like 800 grit emery paper, being careful not to remove any of the colour layer, wipe the area with white spirit to remove any grease using a lint free rag or tissue, mask off the car areas not being sprayed to keep off over spray, to avoid a ridge of paint the masking tape should have the painted area edge folded back under itself, then give the area about 3 or 4 coats of laquer, remove the masking about 1 hour after. This will probably last a few years before it starts to peel again. If you need to spray metallic colour, the resulting shade depends on how much is applied at each coat - a thin quick drying coat will be lighter but a thicker coat will be darker but risks paint runs. To do a proper job really needs the full bumper sanding down then using primer, colour coat and then laquer but this takes time and will cost a lot more and if paying a bodyshop it could be several £100. Another option would be replacement bumpers from a scrap dealer but these could still have paint damage. There probably are video clips on the internet that show you how to spray a car.

The bit that goes in the square hole is called a hog ring, Citroen part no. 703018, the button that pushes through it (and releases with a 90° turn) is part no 703016 or possibly rivet 7013V8. They are the same as on the engine under tray so you can have a look at those. Up to RPO 09740 there are 29 of these to cover both sides (not inc engine under tray) and from RPO 09741 there are 18 plus 11 of the rivet. These part nos. are the same as the ones quoted in the ebay listing but whether they are identical to ones supplied by a Citroen dealer I do not know. There are also 12 (6 each side) nuts with built in washers, part no. 693997, holding on the side under trays. This says the parts are genuine Citroen ones http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-Peugeot-Engine-Undertray-Cover-Pin-Screw-Clip-703016-703018-Genuine-/141059413369 I could not find a picture of the rivet.

I am not quite clear - are you saying with the pump disconnected electrically, when the front washer switch is used, at the pump connector you get +12 volts on one terminal and an earth on the other and that if you try the rear washer you still get an earth and + 12 volt but on the opposite terminals. But when you connect the pump you lose the earth when trying the rear washer - this may indicate a faulty pump but you could test it direct from the battery. From the Haynes manual for the C5, the wipers wiring diagram shows 2 relays in the engine fusebox for the washer pump with a common 12 volt supply and a common earth for them. So, if I have read this correctly, depending on whether the front or rear washer is needed, the 2 relays work together so that the pump receives a +12 volts and an earth on the 2 wires to the pump with the direction reversed to give the opposite pump rotation. So possibly one of these relays (or its connections) may be faulty if you are losing the earth when trying the rear washer switch and having the pump connected does not make any difference. It is still possible it could be a switch fault unless you can hear the relays trying to work.

If you are going to pay to have it fixed, use a Citroen dealer who will confirm the fault and since the procedures say less than an hour to fit it and about £206 for the part, so at most would be around £280. If you are sure about the fix, you could buy the part and fit it yourself or keep trying to get a used part. The procedure is easy enough as well - remove the wiper arms (check there is a mark on the windscreen at the end of each wiper for correct refitting), unclip the scuttle grill below the windscreen which covers the wiper motors, undo 3 bolts holding the relevant wiper motor, undo its electrical connector and reverse to fit the new one but run the wipers before fitting the wiper arms so the motors park in the correct position. It also says to disconnect the battery but I would not think that was needed.

Oops, I had searched on C5 so I do not know how that happened, good job you checked it. Here is a new right side one but £240 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Citroen-C5-08-ON-Models-Drivers-Front-Wiper-Motor-6405LA-/181390636080?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a3bb97430 The left and right ones must be a bit different so they go in opposite directions and stop in the right place but some of that could be done by swapping the positive and negative connections. Also the parts diagram shows the wiper spindle to be at opposite sides of the motor casing. The original poster has not been back yet so maybe the problem has been sorted. This looks as if it may be a picture of one https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=C5+wiper+6405LA+picture&hl=en-GB&rlz=1T4DKUK_enGB242GB242&tbm=isch&imgil=oIIqASovGlq79M%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com%252Fimages%253Fq%253Dtbn%253AANd9GcRyzDOhVgwDLQ9tDmdggdqwGVjeoA7oBbHJEA8OMqdjKv173NPv%253B300%253B225%253B5KAUphEqPBncNM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%25252Fitm%25252FCitroen-C5-X7-right-hand-side-O-S-front-windscreen-wiper-motor-%25252F251459879455&source=iu&usg=__qZUls-XMb91Jo1ygz1WfYY5X8XY%3D&sa=X&ei=rXJ2U5-KAcmvO_mJgbAG&ved=0CEAQ9QEwCA#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=oJENoju9XY7KAM%253A%3Bv1DMcXI8j_KP7M%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.bartebben.nl%252FdailySQL%252FImages%252Fimg_ic%252Fic0qgbbs.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fbartebben.com%252Fparts%252Fcitroen%252Fc5%252Felectrical-system%252Ffront-wiper-motor.html%3B600%3B423

There is a used wiper motor on ebay for £59.99 inc postage http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-C3-Front-Wiper-Motor-Valeo-9683622580-4-Pin-Plug-2009-2013-/251513273813?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a8f5bfdd5 A look at the parts diagrams shows there are separate left and right side wiper motors, part nos. 6405 LE and 6405 LA Both are £206 each from citroencarparts.net.

From searching, it appears to be a 4 digit code and a picture showed a card with a number followed by 3 letters - but this does not mean they are all like that. Also to get the code, a dealer will provide it if you take your V5C document to show proof of ownership and you may not be charged. As well as the transponder code, you could also ask for the key code in case you want another cutting without having to use an existing one. if your radio needs a code then that can also be obtained at the same time. There are internet sites that say they can provide the code but will charge and again need proof of ownership. Some sites also say if your existing key fob works then the code can be obtained from it.

A few notes to help anyone wanting to clean the front brakes or replace the brake pads. The new C4 from 2010 front brakes are similar to the previous model which is covered by a Haynes manual. There are 2 types fitted, TRW and TEVES. The TRW caliper is held to the carrier by bolts (possibly needing a torx socket) 35 Nm. The TEVES caliper is held by bolts needing a 7 mm allen hex bit to undo 27 Nm, plus there is a large spring clipping the caliper to the carrier which can be seen through the wheel spokes. Both carriers are held on the hub by bolts needing an E16 torx socket 90 Nm plus a further 45 degrees (except where 340mm discs are fitted, the bolt looks as if a torx bit is needed and tightened to 35 Nm plus a further 35 degrees and the caliper bolts are to 35 Nm). The wheel bolt torque is 100 Nm for alloy wheels and 90 Nm for steel wheels. Our car has the TEVES brakes so these notes are based on cleaning those. The TRW ones will be similar except the spring is not used, only the lower caliper bolt need be undone so the caliper can be pivoted up, the piston side pad is not clipped to the piston, the caliper bolts have a different torque setting. The procedures say the removed caliper bolt should be renewed each time (no reason is given) but it may be just if it has loctite on it - if so, as a minimum it should be checked for re-use and fresh loctite used. - apply the handbrake, chock the rear wheels, jack up the relevant corner of the car and support on an axle stand. - remove the wheel (use the yellow plastic tool to pull off the wheel bolt plastic chrome covers). - check the brake disc thickness - if worn below its limit then new discs are needed. Our car discs were 26 mm new, minimum 24 mm but other cars may be different with new possibilities of 28/26/24/22 mm but all minimum of 2 mm less. - check the brake pad friction material thickness - if less than about 4 mm new pads are needed. - turn the steering so the brake disc points out at the front. - use a screwdriver to lever out the large spring from the caliper holes. - at the back of the caliper prise off the plastic covers hiding the caliper bolts. - use a 7 mm hex bit to undo the caliper bolts. - push the caliper piston in a bit so the pads can clear the lip on the brake disc. - remove the caliper including the brake pad at the piston side which is held to the piston by clips on the back of the pad. Suspend the caliper from the suspension coil spring using wire/string/a welding rod or similar. - remove the brake pads from the caliper piston and carrier. - clean everything up (pads, caliper, carrier, bolts, spring), remove the glaze from the disc using such as 180 grit emery paper, scrape off any loose rust from the disc edge, wipe the disc with brake cleaner, place emery paper on a flat surface and then rub the brake pad friction side on it to remove any glaze. - push the caliper piston in, even if the old pads are being used again. It may be better to release the excess brake fluid via the bleed screw rather than push it back in to the braking system. Make sure the brake fluid reservoir does not overflow. - apply a smear of copper grease to the pad/caliper/carrier contact faces but not on the pad friction material or disc - a bit of card held between the carrier and disc should stop any going on the cleaned disc whilst doing this. The pads have a rubber type backing but a bit of copper grease will also help prevent squeal. - fit the pads to the carrier and caliper piston and put the caliper back in place, making sure the brake hose has not been twisted - also check its condition. - apply a bit of copper grease to the caliper holes for the spring to prevent corrosion. - fit one end of the spring to the caliper, wearing gloves hold the other end of the spring in its hole with a thumb and then with difficulty, use the other hand to fit it over the carrier. Check the spring is pushed fully in place. Trying to fit the spring without first pushing the piston back and with the caliper bolts in place does not work. - fit the caliper bolts 27 Nm and fit the plastic covers. - use the brake pedal in short strokes until the pedal goes hard to push the piston out so the pads contact the disc. - check the spring is still fully in place - if not push it further on to the carrier. - turn the steering back to the front. - clean up the hub and wheel contact faces and apply a smear of copper grease to prevent corrosion/wheel sticking to the hub. - check the tyre for nails/etc and then fit the wheel 100 Nm alloy or 90 Nm steel wheels. - remove the axle stand, lower the car, remove the jack, check the wheel bolts are torqued up and then fit the bolt plastic chrome covers. - if new pads are installed then these will take a few miles to bed in. Before then the brakes will not be fully effective.

I find the variable ground clearance useful in the UK also - lower the car to min to help when washing it, occasional off road parking on uneven surfaces, once going over a kerb to avoid a broken down vehicle blocking the road.

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum. If this happens in only one location it may be due to radio interference. We had it on a few occasions on our C3 and our Xsara Picasso and possibly 30 minutes later would be ok again. Other times the key fob would not unlock the doors and the key would have to be used.

Welcome to the forum. 900 ml in 13000 miles is negligible oil use and the dipstick will be about 1500 ml from min to max. So if you did not top the level up between services it would probably be ok if filled to the max level each time. Years ago 1 pint (about 500 ml) in 300 miles seemed normal before worrying about replacing valve guide seals and would have to be worse before thinking of replacing piston rings.