paul.h

If the fuel filter is above it it could be the water drain tube.

Welcome to the forum. Is the new radio the same as the original or an aftermarket one ? As a first step you could try removing it and fitting the old one.

A look at a wiring diagram in the Review Technique manual for the C5 (X7) shows the fan has a supply through the relay (maroon) and maxi fuse 1, an earth and then 2 wires from/to the ecu. The relay also has another supply through fuse 21 and fuse 1 and relay 1 in the engine fuse box. So it looks as if you may also need to put a supply across the other 2 wires to get the fan to run - it looks as if the ecu puts a supply through the fan to a control of some sort (just shown as a triangle in a box) that then pulls in the maroon relay. Relay 1 in the engine fuse box needs a supply from the engine ecu to pull in the 12 volt fuse 1/21 supply to the maroon relay. It may also be worth checking the earth for the fan and there is a permanent 12 volt supply (from MF1) both to the maroon relay.

Thanks John, looks as if I got a couple of things wrong so I now checked the procedures. The oil filter is a metal canister type at the front of the engine, the sump plug - check for the hole in it for the hex bit in case it is full of dirt and needs cleaning out, the sump plug torque setting is 34 Nm. When adding the new oil, put about 3½ litres in first off and then gradually add a bit more after a brief run of the engine. The dipstick min to max is 1.5 litres but you do not want to overfill it to avoid possible engine runaway running on the engine oil. The Haynes manual gives the oil capacity as 4.9 litres but Citroen's procedures give it as 4.5 litres with the oil filter. An important thing to remember (if not already seen on this forum) is to always use axle stands to support the car before going under it - if a height sensor on the front or rear anti roll bar is knocked it is possible for the suspension to drop to a very low level of a few inches above the ground and risk of squashing. Before jacking the car up the suspension should be raised to max height - this is in the handbook somewhere - to avoid possible suspension problems, and then use the axle stands.

That is just about it but also replace the filter which is inside a plastic cover needing a large socket to undo - replace the large O-ring seal on the cover but this will come with the filter a metal canister type. A diesel engine oil will always look black so do not worry about the colour, just check when it was last done. The car handbook/maintenance book will give the service interval (probably 2 years or 20k miles, whichever sooner) 12000 miles for this engine and the oil to use. The filter should include a new drain plug washer if from a dealer but if not buy one anyway - the dealer price is often a lot less than from a car accessory shop, being less than £1. The drain plug uses a 8mm hex bit to undo it (from memory so may be wrong).

If getting one from a scrap yard make sure you get the right one since there are about 6 different part numbers.

Welcome to the forum. Have you had a diagnostic check that said the ecu needs replacing and if so what equipment was used ? The immobiliser consists of the key with its immobiliser chip, the transponder/aerial at the steering lock which detects the chip and is only a few £, the steering column switch unit, the bsi, the engine ecu. How much of this you would need from a donor car I do not know but if the bsi and ecu are replaced I suspect other engine/car parts may also need replacing or coding to the replacement parts.

It is always the same when replacing a car, there will be something that needs doing on the replacement so it is often better to keep the car you have. What happened with the water problem in the air filter you had last year, did it sort itself out or did any parts need replacing ?

I have moved this topic in to a subforum since ones outside do not show after a few days and are then difficult to find.

Welcome to the forum. Maybe it is a new security feature so somebody could not quickly use the key to pick it out by the flashing indicators. If you go in to the car radio menu and the car configuration, then at a guess it may be possible to change the settings so the indicators flash. On the Citroen's we have owned, the indicators always flash when using the remote key locking/unlocking buttons, the latest being a 2010 C3 and 2011 C4.

Have you tried the spare key in case it is a key communication problem. On Citroens the steering column lighting unit (comms 2000 unit) has the remote receiver and works the lights. However, I would have thought a diagnostic check with the right equipment should find a problem with this. Has the garage checked for petrol in the tank and the fuel pump is running and has the garage tried to start the car using easystart - assuming the petrol system is still on the car ? The dash displays may be off if the car is in eco mode and if so this will work again when the engine runs but this should not affect the hazard lights.

As well as a Lexia, you may possibly need the key code card that came with the car. A dealer can obtain this if you do not have it if you provide the VIN.

On one of the C5 sections is a pinned post with members willing to help others with diagnostics, so worth a look if one is in your area. I have read there are ways around not having XP so a Lexia can be used with more recent Windows systems - you would need to contact a seller to see what their Lexia can work with.

This is based on our 2007 estate and I would expect the tourer to be the same: The height switch works with the engine not running and the tailgate open, so key in your pocket. It lets you raise or lower only the back end to help with loading. When the tailgate is closed again the suspension returns to normal height. By boot floor John meant the back end of the car raises or lowers, not just the internal floor.

This is probably a stuck height sensor (it has appeared on here before). Try taking the car up and down on the suspension a few times since this will likely free it off. If not, raise the car to max height, use axle stands to support the car (so you do not get squashed if the suspension drops to a low level) and then from underneath, spray the sensors with something like wd40 - they are in the middle of the front and rear anti roll bars. Then try the raising/lowering again.

Before adjusting the handbrake, there should be a slight clearance between the levers and caliper that should be checked with the handbrake off. Without any clearance the brakes will not self adjust as the pads wear. The handbrake should be full on at 5 clicks on the ratchet. Noticed in your video your car is a mark 2 C5 2004 to 2008 model, so to adjust the handbrake cable the nut is accessed by removing the centre console rear ash tray and then undoing the revealed 2 torx bolts so the console can be lifted out of the way.

As well as considering a bsi reset for the window problem, have a look at the C5 Technical Section Common Problems post since it is mentioned there with one solution that has worked. If you want new parts and a local dealer can not help, then these people may post them to you http://www.citroencarparts.net/

It would need to be done by a dealer. As a reminder to others who may be able to help, your car is a 2001, 2.2 hdi auto.

Depending on your reply to John's post, it may be worth pulling the switch out to see if its wiring is still connected (and hope it has not been used to power the towbar).

The cost of a dealer to do it may not be that great, only 1 to 2 hours labour to do both sides and they will have all the right tools. Some dealers have a lower labour rate for older cars as well, so it is still worth getting a price from them. The £230 for one side was for a strut £143, a seal £3.10, R-pin £1.44 and lds fluid £13.20 plus labour £84 - to do 2 sides the lds and the labour would not be much more - total probably about £400. Only way to get it much cheaper would be to use parts from a scrap yard and do the work yourself - I had the dealer do mine since it was late in the year and bad weather (car will not fit in the garage) and was needed for the MOT and for 1 hours labour was not too expensive.

I would get a copy of the Haynes manual for your car but the procedure from it is as follows: Replacement of the tank level sender (and the fuel pump which is part of it) involves removing the exhaust, unclip the handbrake cables from the tank, draining the fuel tank (best to start the job with as little fuel in it as possible - the filler hose connects at the side of the tank with a jubillee type of clip so could possibly drain from here or maybe syphon out of the filler neck), disconnecting the hoses and wiring to the tank, place a support under the tank then undo the supporting rod and bolts and lower it to the floor, disconnecting the wiring and hoses to the sender/pump unit on the top of the tank (note where they all fit first and maybe take a photo), note the unit alignment marks and the locking ring against the tank, unscrew the ring (a tool made from metal bar may be needed or very large water pump pliers to engage the ribs on the ring), lift out the pump/sender unit, remove the seal and replace with a new one. Probably worthwhile swilling the tank out before fitting the new unit and reversing the removal procedure. As an idea of the cost, on the eurocarparts website, a new fuel pump/sender unit is £116 or £174 depending on the make. Used ones will be a lot less but you would need to make sure the pump was ok.

It would be worth checking the battery connections are tight but it is probably not that. On our previous C3, C4 and latest C4 when starting sometimes the radio would reset the date and time as if the battery was disconnected. On the latest C4 at the last service there was a software update that fixed it so it must be a common thing, maybe it is something similar.

I have given the costs in above post - costs when I replaced a gaiter and cost when the dealer replaced a rear strut.

I did not realise you meant there was a warning message on the car. If you have not yet bought the car I would have the owner sort it out before paying for it - or pay a reduced amount to allow for the fix.

Probably not but make sure it has the right size tyres - check against the label on one of the door pillars. The exclusive cars have tyre presure monitors which work from the tyre valves - you need to check if these have been fitted on the wheels and are working. I do not know the year of the car but our 2007 C5 sat nav is now a few years out of date but it is still good enough - if a new road is not on it, just select one nearby. Some use a cd or sd card or in our case it is loaded on to a hard drive.