paul.h

Thankyou for getting back, you made it not sound too bad in the end. I did think the Citroen method requiring the engine to be turned over would not be easy, a petrol engine is hard enough, never mind a 3 litre diesel.

The air bag light staying on will give a fault code that needs a lexia or a code reader that does air bag faults so it can be read and reset. So if not fixed by checking the plugs under the seats, and maybe the switch to turn off the passenger air bag, then the fault code will need reading to find what is wrong. Note that whilst there is a fault the air bags are likely to not work in the event of an accident, so be careful driving and beware it could affect an insurance claim. To see if the fault light has an effect on the MOT you can look in the MOT test guide which is available free on line http://www.transportoffice.gov.uk/crt/doitonline/bl/mottestingmanualsandguides/mottestingmanualsandguides.htm but section 5.4 SRS - supplementary restraint systems, indicates an air bag fault shown by the light will result in a fail.

Due to future MOT changes it can not be recommended to remove the dpf any more since if it has been removed then the car would fail. The details of the MOT checks are not yet known though. There is a pinned post on this on the C5 subforum. Others seem to have cleaned the dpf by using a jet washer to flush out the ash.

When you alter the temperature setting can you hear the flaps in the heater air con unit moving - if not could be the motors that move them or the flaps may be broken, or the software may need a reset, or the temp sensor (wherever that is) is faulty. You could look in the passenger footwell and see if the coolant pipes to the heater are hot - as far as I know the only temp control is by moving the flaps so no heater valves to look for.

Could also be the front brake pads, we had a recent post on this. If the rubber backing is missing this can lead to a rattle. On our C3 a knocking was a front tie rod, given as an advisory at the MOT but when removed the joints on it were well worn. Edit 3/2/2014 - meant drop link, not tie rod.

I need to check this but I think it is about 2½ to 3 litres for about 80k miles, so about 30k miles per litre. There was a post that the low message can be ignored (although annoying) and the fluid will continue to be injected as long as there is some. I can not remember who it was but was on a mark 1 2.2 hdi. This will save resetting the fluid counter on the ecu with a Lexia.

Your good ideas are not being ignored, any changes need to come from the site owner but the problem initially would be having some more volunteers with the time and contacts to implement the extras and if money starts to change hands then accounts would need to be kept.

There have been a couple of reports of steering fluid leaks where the pipes join the rack so worth a look. Otherwise I guess it should be a straight forward usual check. The MOT manual is on line if you want to look at it http://www.transportoffice.gov.uk/crt/doitonline/bl/mottestingmanualsandguides/mottestingmanualsandguides.htm

This is all the procedures give for the 2008 C5 on - CAUTION : In the event of complete refilling of the additive tank, reset the diesel fuel additive ECU counter. So you may find yourself paying for maybe 15 to 30 minutes of diagnostic work.

A tensioner is not shown on the air con drive belt, probably it relies on being elastic to keep it under tension. Looking at those crank pulley clamps again, it looks as if the first is to lever off the belt as the crank pulley is rotated and the other is to stop the belt slipping off the pulley as it is rotated to wind the belt on. The first is a bit like a wedge that goes under the belt with the thick part on the engine block side. So I now do not think the clamps squeeze the pulley inner and outer together to squash the rubber insert. Maybe a screwdriver held between the belt and pulley as it is turned could achieve the same effects.

If I have got the right engine, it looks as if the crankshaft pulley inner and outer have to be squeezed together using a special clamp to allow the elastic belt to be fitted and then the pulley rotated to wind the belt on. The inner/outer should be parallel or the belt may not be fitted correctly and then only last a few kilometers. here is the procedure without any diagrams since these do not copy:- 2. RemovingRemove :The front right headlampThe sound insulation under the engineThe front right wheel2.1. Vehicle without air conditioningCAUTION : Note the direction of fitting of the alternator and coolant pump belt if being re-used.Compress the dynamic roller tensioner (1) (at "a") (anti clockwise) ; Using the tools [0188-Z] wrench, [0191-2T] socket.Peg (at "b") - this looks to be behind the top engine mounting; Using tool [0188-Q1] 4mm diameter pin.Remove : The alternator and coolant pump belt.CAUTION : Check that the dynamic roller tensioner (1) turns freely (no clearance or points of resistance). 2.2. Vehicle with air conditioning2.2.1 - Flexible ancillary drive belt .CAUTION : Before removing, and for any re-use of the elastic auxiliary drive belt once removed, it is compulsory for the engine to be at ambient temperature (Below 30 °C) ; In all other cases, replace the elastic auxiliary drive belt with a new elastic belt.N.B. : Removal while the engine is warm results in irreversible and invisible damage to the elastic auxiliary drive belt.CAUTION : Note the direction of rotation of the elastic auxiliary drive belt if being re-used (Before removal).CAUTION : If it is to be replaced, cut the elastic auxiliary drive belt and remove it. Place the engine in a sling ; Using a workshop crane.Remove :The top engine mounting nuts and boltsLower the engine.Position tool [0191-AA] Elastic auxiliary drive belt removal tool (clamp) on the accessories drive pulley (5).Turn the accessories drive pulley (5) (In the normal direction of rotation).Remove the flexible ancillary drive belt (7).CAUTION : Check that the roller (6) turns freely (no play or tight spot). 2.2.2 - Water pump and alternator belt. CAUTION : Note the direction of fitting of the alternator and coolant pump belt if being re-used.Compress the dynamic roller tensioner (8) (at "c") (anti clockwise) ; Using the tools [0188-Z], [0191-2T]. Peg (at "d") ; Using tool [0188-Q1]. Again looks to be behind the top engine mounting.Remove : The alternator and coolant pump belt.CAUTION : Check that the dynamic roller tensioner (8) turns freely (no clearance or points of resistance). 3. Refitting3.1. Vehicle without air conditioning Refit : The alternator and coolant pump belt.CAUTION : Check that the alternator and coolant pump belt is correctly positioned in the grooves of the various pulleys.Compress the dynamic roller tensioner (1) (at "a") (anti clockwise) ; Using the tools [0188-Z], [0191-2T].Remove the tool [0188-Q1]. 3.2. Vehicle with air conditioning3.2.1 - Water pump and alternator belt. Refit : The alternator and coolant pump belt.CAUTION : Check that the alternator and coolant pump belt is correctly positioned in the grooves of the various pulleys.Compress the dynamic roller tensioner (8) (at "c") (anti clockwise) ; Using the tools [0188-Z], [0191-2T].Remove the tool [0188-Q1].3.2.2 - Flexible ancillary drive belt (7).Position the tool [0191-AB] Elastic auxiliary drive belt fitting tool (special clamp) on the auxiliary drive pulley (5). "A" : Correct fitting - parallel inner/outer of pulley."B" : Incorrect fitting - not parallel.Tighten the tool wing nut ("e") observing the parallelism between the faces of the 2 components of the tool [0191-AB].Tighten the tool bolt "f" to cancel out the twisting effect of the tool [0191-AB] when fitting the flexible ancillary drive belt (7).N.B. : Failure to have the faces parallel will result in an incorrect positioning of the elastic auxiliary drive belt (7) in the "Vs" of the auxiliary drive pulley (5) for crankshaft, alternator pulley or air conditioning compressor pulley. Damage to the elastic auxiliary drive belt (7) results in its inevitable destruction after only a few kilometres. Refit the flexible ancillary drive belt (7).Turn the accessories drive pulley (5) anticlockwise until the accessories drive belt (7) is fully fitted onto the pulley (5) of the crankshaft and until tool [0191-AB.] has been released.3.3. Refitting (continued)Refit the engine mounting and tighten its boltsRefit :The front right headlampThe sound insulation under the engineThe front right wheel

I believe the level is not measured but is calculated based on the number of fuel tank fills, hence the car does not know the actual fluid level. So when the fluid is topped up the ecu needs to be told.

qman3428, where do you get your fuel from ?

Was the broken wire on the tailgate or in the gap between the body and tailgate ?

Thankyou for coming back with the fix - a late reply is always appreciated.

Does the engine shake a bit when switching off - just thinking it may be causing a damaged wire to earth. If the ignition is on but the engine not started, does the fuse blow if it is switched off ? Are there any things not quite right about the dash which may be causing it to draw current through the fuse ? Now you know when the fuse blows you could measure the amps at the fuse with it removed - will give you an idea of the wattage of the culprit. Next thing may be a problem with the bsi. May be a battery disconnection could reset a fault, if any. Try the procedure in the C5 Technical section Common Problems post. It may still be worth checking the earthing of the lights (and maybe some others - dash, bsi) since bad earths can cause unusual problems.

There was a post last year with the same problem. The poster has come back to let us know how it was fixed. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20845-3rd-brake-light-not-working-2009-c5-tourer/ I replaced one on our 2007 C5 estate since water was getting in and whilst trying to remove the lens to dry it out and seal it the lens broke. Whilst leds may last a long time, the printed circuit may not if it gets water in. It is not a quick job to replace on the tourer, this is based on the Citroen procedures so should help ( I have not done the job so maybe you can report back with tips after you have done it): - put a sheet or similar on the rear of the roof to avoid paint scratches - open the tailgate and remove the top tailgate plastic trim (8 clips) - undo 4 torx bolts now seen holding the spoiler on (4 Nm) - rotate the back edge of the spoiler up to unclip 2 hinge pins - unclip 2 clips nearer the middle of the spoiler - uncouple the wash water pipe (it may need an insert pushing in to release it as on fuel filter pipes) - lift off the spoiler and undo the light electrical connector - unclip the stop lamp and remove 2 bolts to release it from the spoiler Check the new light works before fitting everything. The procedure says to disconnect the battery first but I did not bother on our C5. If you do not want to buy a new light to start with, then you could check for 12 volts at the connector when the brakes are applied.

Thanks for the reminder, I have now added the front end rattle to the Common Problems post. I have found the rubber backing wears through at the piston contact points and when cleaning the brakes I use copper grease on the metal back of the pads so this may also help prevent the rattle.

As a reminder, what was the annoying rattle (please do not say it was a passenger) ? On the more recent version of the Citroen service box, the fault finding section has been removed.

In this pinned post on speedometer repairs http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/15043-speedometer-repairs/ there is a company http://www.akspeedo.com/peugeot-citroen-speedo-motors.php that does the parts at a low price if they have them in stock.

Free fixes are always good, especially when first thoughts are of an expensive bill. I have linked to this post in the Common Problems post since this problem has come up a few times.

The front fog lights can be removed without removing the bumper so I would think it would not need removing to do a sensor next to a fog light, despite what it says in Haynes.

On our last C5 the air con was not cooling down as much at one side and it turned out to be short of refrigerant.

Is your car a diesel and does it have an exhaust particulate filter ? If yes, the filler cap will have 2 magnets in it (if it is like a C5) that tell the car when it has been filled with diesel and then inject some eolys fuild in the fuel tank. If this is not working then the exhaust filter could be blocking up. I do not know what effect a faulty brake pedal switch could have but it is not likely to be expensive. However, maybe if the car thinks the brakes are being applied then it may affect the engine. Could you post your indicator problem again since for some reason they do not open, or just add it to this topic. I do not know if it is something to do with the squares that appear below the title but perhaps you could try without these. Edited 26/1/2014. I have deleted the indicator posts since nobody can open them.

2 amps = 24 watts = five 5 watt bulbs - front and rear side lights and 2 no plate lights + dash which seems correct. Have you got a towbar fitted or any other accessories that may have been taken off this circuit ? is there any water in any of the lights ? You may have to look for damaged wiring catching on something. Maybe you could try disconnecting each light connector in turn and see if this points to anything.