paul.h

As part of the governments latest cut backs, sometime next year we will not get a tax disc to display when paying the tax. This will be another step to make it easier to avoid tax/insurance/MOT/etc for those not able/wanting to pay and if they copy somebody elses number plates are probably not likely to get caught. If anyone is involved in a crash it may be wise to get the VIN of the other car, on a Citroen this can be seen at the lower left (passenger side) of the windscreen from the outside and would be easy to photograph as well as the number plate - unless a hit and run. If the car owner though has not informed DVLA they have the car he/she may still not be traceable, but would help avoid trying to claim from the wrong person.

This is copied from wikipedia and shows the diesel emission standards for particulates. I looked at the V5C for our 2007 C5 2.2 hdi and it gives 0.001 g/km for the particulate matter and on our 2011 C4 1.6 hdi it gives 0.082 g/km - both have dpfs. How these relate to the MOT smoke test I do not know and neither seem to match the standards. The C5 value may be a token gesture and not tested and the C4 is way above the standards. Maybe other members could give the values from their V5C. European emission standards for passenger cars (Category M*), g/km Tier / Date / PM Diesel Euro 1†/ July 1992 0.14 (0.18) Euro 2 / January 1996 0.08 Euro 3 / January 2000 0.05 Euro 4 / January 2005 0.025 Euro 5 / September 2009 0.005 Euro 6 (future) / September 2014 0.005

The guidance notes imply the car has to meet the emission standards in force when the car was made. A dpf is not necessary to meet the earlier standards (some cars had them as a nice to have/have not) and a dpf is not specified as the way to meet the standards. The standards have changed in recent years - 2008 and possibly 2010 may be the dates of changes and from the most recent changes a dpf (or other means) may be the only way to meet them - but there are C4 2008 and 2009 1.6 and 2.0 hdi cars that were not fitted with a dpf. For the government to say an earlier car needs a dpf, even though it meets the emission standards, might need a change in the law/rules - or to be tested in court ? So it could be an older car may not need a dpf to be refitted. A search on the MOT testers manual has a guidance note on the testing standards https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/in-service-exhaust-emission-standards-for-road-vehicles and a dpf is not yet mentioned, so it may still be in the planning stage on how/what is to be tested. The testers manual is still on the 2012 version and again dpfs are not mentioned.

Maybe ask your MOT garage about it first and see if it would pass - it may still only need to meet the standards in force when the car was made (in the guidance note). So if it had a dpf when it was not mandatory, then possibly it may not need one. If it does need one, then a scrap yard may be a low cost source - but if you fit a complete one (with the insides intact) the ecu software would need to be redone to get the eolys system working again.

Is the car diesel or petrol and which gearbox is it ? The manual gearboxes seem to use ESSO 75W80 EZL 848 or TOTAL 75W80 H6965, ref RTA French manual for the 2.0 hdi C5 (X7) mark 3 and Citroen's manual which also includes the 2.0 petrol. The refill amount will be about 2 litres for a gearbox casing with fins and about 2.6 litres for a gearbox casing without fins. For an overhaul an extra 0.3 litres is needed. Since there is not a level plug, you drain out the old oil from the drain plug (30 or 35 Nm depending on which gearbox) and then add the same amount as removed through the top air vent. So you will need to measure the amount drained out. To access the air vent plug you may need to remove some parts such as the air filter housing, battery, battery tray, gearchange cable - depends on the car. A new drain plug seal should be used.

Are you sure the clunk is from revs on the engine or when moving ? Was the tracking adjusted due to bad tyre wear which could have indicated worn suspension parts ? I had a clunking on a C3 when slowly going over bumps and that was a worn tie rod. Other suspension causes of clunking can include the ball joint at the bottom of the suspension swivel, suspension wishbone arm worn bushes, worn steering - mountings or track rod ends, a worn wheel bearing (although more likely to whine), loose/worn away brake pads or if when turning a cv joint, worn subframe bushes. If it makes the clunk when stationary when you take the revs to 1000 rpm, try it with the bonnet up and see if something is loose, such as the driver side engine mounting which would have been removed when the belt was replaced. If the clunk is more from the back of the engine it could be the rear mounting suffered when the side one was removed. Check round the battery area since that may have been disconnected. Also check the wheel bolts are tight - the wheel will have been removed. Still check the crankshaft pulley. The retaining bolt has thread lock on it that makes removal difficult and a risk of snapping the bolt. An impact wrench should not be used but a wrench to undo/do up and repeat until the bolt is removed. If the torque goes up to 200 Nm doing this then heat is supposed to be used to soften the thread lock but not too much such that the pulley rubber suffers. The revs dropping could be the belt has been fitted a tooth out or maybe a pipe has not been reconnected near the engine mounting. Was it a dealer/garage that replaced the timing belt ? There should be a guarantee of the work so you can take it back.

You could have a look at the crankshaft pulley to see if it is falling apart. It has a rubber insert that can perish. Have a look at this http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20707-c5-knocking-when-cold-crankshaft-pulley/ Otherwise if the belt/tensioner has not been fitted properly it should go back to the garage that did it, provided it is related to engine revs and not road speed when moving i.e. it does it when stationary. If only when moving it could be a suspension problem. Also see if it only does it when the air con is being used - it clunks as the compressor clutch pulls in and out and is normal.

The bit click here to obtain your key is where a dealer would log in to the Citroen site - hence you have to go through the seller to do this for you.

You could try a reset but I would not be hopeful - more likely the wiper/indicator switch unit (comms 2000) needs replacing but at a few £100 you may not want to bother. The auto lights I did not use on our last C5, they would come on when not wanted such as going in to our narrow garage - I have a mirror at the end to help make sure the car does not catch stuff at the left side and the lights coming on dazzled me. I read somewhere that the end switch could be dismantled and a search found this on our Picasso forum http://www.citroenpicasso.org.uk/picasso/index.php/topic/19705-any-idea-how-to-dismantle-wiper-stalk/ I have read different versions of the bsi reset on the web, some almost need you to do somersaults and with the battery disconnected touching the positive and negative wires together.

You need to contact the seller and provide them the installation code from your screen (the bit covered over). They will then provide you with an activation code to use which will then allow the installation to go ahead. I can not remember how long it takes to install, but do not do it just before wanting to do something else. The standard installation works fine and in use the dvds are used to provide the pictures to minimise storage space - it looks to have used about 5½ GB. It does not use Citroen's servers, only your PC (standalone installation/single terminal/back up) and does not need to be connected to the internet to use, although it uses Internet explorer.

Even 10 years may be too old unless kept inside such as a spare in a car boot. I've replaced tyres that have been perished/cracking. On the C3 at about 7 years old, only about 35k miles and still well above the legal min tread depth on all 4 tyres. Same with the C5, about 5 years old, 15k miles. Both cars were the original Michelins - maybe they are to a lower spec for the car manufacturers so they get them cheap. Caravan tyres can be a problem since they only move a few times a year and it is recommended they be replaced 5 to 7 years old and to be checked regularly. But, if buying new ones they could already be a couple of years old so this has to be guarded against - you could need to replace them again in 3 years.

How many miles has the car done ? I think the only or maybe best way to find out what is wrong will be a diagnostic check using a Citroen dealer Lexia. Then all the sensors and parts should be able to be checked. Just doing forced regenerations does not seem to be helping at all. Did you go back to the Citroen specialist since they should have the correct equipment, if not a trip to a Citroen dealer may be needed. On the C5 forum there are also a few members with a Lexia who may be able to help. None are in Lancashire though http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20345-diagnostic-help/

On the track rod end, if you turn the steering wheel so that the wheel points in at the front, you can then put a hand around the track rod end (it is the ball joint where the steering rack joins the wheel hub suspension) and then get somebody to wiggle the steering wheel. If there is any play within the joint it will be felt. Compare it with the other side. Also check if there is any bad wear on the front tyres. If you have it replaced get both sides done since the tracking will need to be adjusted and the other joint is likely to also be on its way out. You could do it yourself, a joint splitter will be needed, and you count the number of turns needed to remove it from the steering track rod - then put the new one on the same no. of turns. This will put you on until the tracking can be checked at a garage. If paying to have the work done, I have found a garage better than a tyre place at setting the tracking, it should be equally adjusted at each side so the no. of visible threads on the track rod are the same - if not then the car may tend to pull to one side and the steering wheel may not be central. From the eurocarparts website, track rod ends are between £10 and £18 each depending on the make. From a Citroen dealer they may be a bit more but I am not sure and sometimes I have found dealer prices are not much different to eurocarparts and sometimes are less. Probably about 1 hour labour cost so around £100 for a garage/dealer to do including the tracking. If the tyres are ok and the play is minimal then this is a job you can leave to the next MOT. The undertray is the plastic cover underneath the front of the car. The retaining bolts usually rust unless covered in grease. If the tray needs to be removed then it will be a bit more difficult, the bolts will probably need cutting out and replacing and then greasing. It is possible the captive nuts are simply clips on the back of the plastic tray and these will also need replacing. If the holes in the plastic have been made larger then some penny washers can be used with the new bolts. Stainless steel bolts and nuts are also an option which should not rust - somewhere like Toolstation will sell them and the washers at a low price. I suspect Halfords price was only the belt and tensioner and several hours labour - replacement of the water pump and any pulleys would be an extra. As for the source of the parts, the recommended service interval is for Citroen parts, if you get a different make then it may not last as long. Eurocarparts give £87.40 for the belt/tensioner kit and £32.40 for just the belt and £48.60 for the tensioner - it also shows a pulley in the pictures so maybe one is included as well as the tensioner. Just a comment on servicing. A lot of the checks done are visual ones and are part of an MOT, so you already pay for them but things like changing air/pollen filters are very easy and could be done by yourself. That just leaves the oil/filter change, brake/clutch fluid change that take a bit more effort. Our Citroen dealer does an Express Service for about £90 which is an oil/filter change plus the visual checks and any updates - this is something for you to consider. They get the synthetic oil in bulk which keeps the cost down. A brake fluid change is about £40. You still get the receipt and your service book stamped but save money and learn a bit about your car. So, for any servicing and repairs it is worth getting a price from a dealer.

The front part forward of the split is the catalyst. There should also be a temperature probe at the split but I do not know if this would have anything to do with the problems. If you drive normally at 1000 to 2000 rpm does the unblock diesel filter problem still occur or just when high revs are used ? Are you using the high revs to give a regeneration of the dpf or for any other reason ? Is the eolys fluid system working so any soot is burning off without having to use high revs ? It may help if you had readings of the dpf filter pressure and checking if these are normal. For the air flow problem - I have read on here that if the air flow meter is unplugged and the performance does not change then it may be faulty. But if it does change then it is probably ok. It may bring up a fault code though as it would go in to limp mode. You could also check if the air filter is clean (if not already done). There is also a pressure sensor on the inlet manifold, just before it splits into 4 and maybe that could be a problem.

The car Maintenance book has the oil spec. Ours has for the HDI 1.3, 1.4, 1.6, 2.0, 2.2 and V6 engines Total Activa/Quartz INEO ECS 5W-30 oil and ACEA C2 spec as first choice or C3 and PSA spec B71 2290. These will be low saps (low sulfated ash, phosphorus-sulfur) oils, full synthetic, suitable for the exhaust particle filter.

This is just a thought so could be wrong - the only way the car will know if the dpf is blocked is by measuring the pressure on the inlet and exit of the filter. If the exhaust gas flow through the filter is restricted the inlet pressure will go up more than expected. This will be worse as the revs are increased as the amount of exhaust gas will increase. Also if the rest of the exhaust is not in good condition this may affect the pressures. The inlet pressure is measured before the catalyst so that could also be adding to the problem. Was the new dpf from a Citroen dealer or from another source and an aftermarket one ? The thought is it may be giving a higher pressure drop than it should be. However, the fault may be the differential pressure sensor needs replacing (part no. 1618Z9) - a search on P1447 found such a case on a peugeot forum and the sensor was £55 to replace.http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/206-35/diagnostic-error-code-p1447-17212/ Available on ebay for £44 http://www.ebay.com/itm/CITROEN-BERLINGO-DISPATCH-1-6HDI-2-0HDI-DPF-PARTICLE-PRESSURE-SENSOR-1618Z9-/370966440075?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item565f52a88b I do not know the price from a Citroen dealer.

Did you have to remove the bumper in the end ?

To clean plastic trim I have used a damp cloth, or one with a bit of washing up liquid / white spirit / swarfega - depends on the type of dirt and would do a spot test first. I prefer not to use polishes or anything with perfume added and if a car has been valeted it would get a wipe down with a damp cloth to clean it off.

A reminder to anyone able to help - its a 2006 1.6 hdi C5. Was the return flow from each injector the same ?

In the Jan 2014 Car Mechanics mag, there is a short article on DPF Genie - a London company who can clean a dpf to almost as new by putting it in an oven at high temperature reaching over 700°C to burn off any deposits. Then blow through to remove any ash. From their website, prices are from £234 inc vat - I do not know how this compares with a new one.

Was the comms 2000 unit replacement a new one or a used one since this came from a search on Citroen air bag VAN fault -------------------------------------- Citroen all makes. Airbag light on. Fault code relates to drivers airbag trigger 1 and 2. This is a break in the contact ribbon behind the steering wheel. A new or stalk / comms unit is required. Citroen C2 airbag light on (internal fault on VAN network) At first glance this fault appears to be an internal problem in the airbag module. However it is often caused by the steering functions ECU. rectify by replacing steering unit.

I do not know but the following is also from the Citroen procedures for a mark 1 C5 from RPO no. 9618 - -------------------------------------------- 3. Reading/deletion of faultsThe following faults can be read using the diagnostic tool :Supply voltage faultFault on ignition device for first level of deployment on driver’s side (short circuit to the +, short circuit to earth, open circuit)Fault on ignition device for second level of deployment on driver’s side (short circuit to the +, short circuit to earth, open circuit)Fault on ignition device for pyrotechnic seat belt module on driver’s side (short circuit to the +, short circuit to earth, open circuit)Fault on ignition device for pyrotechnic seat belt module on passenger’s side (short circuit to the +, short circuit to earth, open circuit)Fault on ignition device for first level of deployment on passenger’s side (short circuit to the +, short circuit to earth, open circuit)Fault on ignition device for second level of deployment on passenger’s side (short circuit to the +, short circuit to earth, open circuit)Fault on ignition device for chest-type lateral airbag on driver’s side (short circuit to the +, short circuit to earth, open circuit)Fault on ignition device for chest-type lateral airbag on passenger’s side (short circuit to the +, short circuit to earth, open circuit)Fault on ignition device for curtain-type lateral airbag on driver’s side (short circuit to the +, short circuit to earth, open circuit)Fault on ignition device for curtain-type lateral airbag on passenger’s side (short circuit to the +, short circuit to earth, open circuit)Passenger’s airbag deactivation switch fault (open circuit, short circuit to the +, short circuit to earth, change of ignition switch status, resistance fault)Passenger’s airbag deactivation faultRH lateral sensor faultLH lateral sensor faultFault internal to the airbag ECU (energy reserve)Airbag ECU faultFault on deployment of pyrotechnic seat beltsFault on deployment of front airbags and pyrotechnic seat beltsFault on deployment of airbagRear impact detection faultFault on the VAN networkConfiguration error fault4. Reading of the parametersOnly one reading of parameters is possible : Passenger airbag deactivation switch status (not configured, ON, OFF, faulty). 5. ACTUATOR TESTSThere is no actuator test in existence for this ECU. 6. ConfigurationThe following parameters can be configured using the diagnostic toolTitle / Parameter statusPyrotechnically pre-tensioned seat belt / No/yesLevel 1 driver’s and passenger’s airbags / No/yesLevel 2 driver’s and passenger’s airbags / No/yesPassenger’s airbag deactivation switch / No/yesLateral sensors for the airbags (left and right) / No/yesChest type side airbag (left and right) / No/yesCurtain type side airbag (left and right) / No/yes---------------------------------------------------------------- The VAN is the Vehicle Area Network (from memory so may be wrong - coastline may help here) and maybe this would cover the wires and connectors.

Welcome to the forum. I would give it a couple of weeks to get used to the car to see if stalling is due to learning a new car. Maybe it needs a few more revs before letting the clutch pedal up and the biting point may be higher than you are used to. Warranty wise, in theory you can go to another vat registered garage for servicing but you need to make sure that Citroen parts are used and the oil/other fluids are approved by Citroen. For any warranty claims/repairs though you will need to go to a Citroen dealer - otherwise you will need to pay and Citroen would not refund you. I would use a Citroen dealer whilst still under warranty, any cost savings could be wiped out by any warranty claim and they will also know your car better than a non Citroen dealer and have the right diagnostic equipment for any checks or updates or recalls.

Your error message is for the igniter in the airbag, so my best guess is that the airbag needs replacing, unless you just live with the fault and drive carefully.

A good looking car, maybe you will list some of the ones you've had and the mods made, makes a good change from standard Citroens