paul.h

Obvious things for the window I can think of to check but without having experienced this problem : - check if the side guide runners/seals are clean and not providing resistance to the glass - you could try pulling the glass up as it is closing to see if it makes a difference. - check if the rubber seal at the bottom of the glass is rusty and pushing in to the glass. - check if there is damage to the wiring where it goes between the car body and door in the rubber bellows. - check there is a good earth connection - it may fasten to the body somewhere inside the footwell but I am not sure. - you may have to remove the door card to check the motor, its wiring and electrical connector and for correct voltage at the motor when a switch is used. - it may need a new motor if for example the brushes are worn down, it is seized a bit (a drop of oil may help). - if there are any odd noises as the window is moving then there may be damage to the mechanism between the motor and glass - again the door card will need removing to check this. - maybe you could try a 12 volt supply direct to the motor to see if it then works ok. The airbag light may be a bad connection under a seat but if not you will need a dealer diagnostic check to find the fault. If checking the connections, it may be better to do this with the battery disconnected and then wait maybe 15 minutes to avoid any risk of an air bag going off. Whilst the light is on the airbag system is likely to not work if the car is in a crash and this could affect any insurance claim for injuries.

Changing the suspension fluid is not a normal service item but I have read that coastline taxis do change theirs since it improves the ride if the fluid is old/high miles. Haynes gives the amount as about 5 litres so could cost about £50 depending on the source. GSF is advertising at £9.90 a litre http://www.gsfcarparts.com/980aa0720

dflflack, a quick look shows there are many different G4 LEDs on the dealextreme site, do you know which ones you used http://dx.com/s/g4%2bled?category=712&PageIndex=1#sortBar In Morrisons there are standard 20 watt 12 volt G4 bulbs with a 2000 hour life at £4 for 3 in their own brand and Osram ones at £2.49 for 2. If G4 bulbs/LEDs are a suitable replacement for the original 24 watt bulbs they are a good saving. A few recommendations would be good such as are they as bright as the originals, no dazzle, no heat effects on the light unit. Edit 13/2/2014 - I have read elsewhere that G4 halogen bulbs may be too hot so should not be used.

Thankyou for this useful post. Since you have also copied it to an existing topic on the DRL under the Problems and Fixes - C5 subforum, I have locked this topic and can anyone add any replies to the other post. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20984-daytime-running-lights-bulb-replacement-and-led-option/?do=findComment&comment=76329

Since this is likely to be a frequent topic I have edited the title slightly so the content is more obvious, pinned the post and linked to it in the Common Problems post.

Handbook gives the engine fusebox fuse F11, 40 amp for the air con blower.

These ride height sensors are also known to stick - taking the suspension up and down a few times can help as well as spraying with something such as wd40. The sensors are fastened to the front and rear anti roll bars in about the middle. If you go under the car use axle stands since playing with the sensors can cause the suspension to drop - this should be normal practice on the C5 with hydractive suspension since if the sensors are caught the same can happen and in the low position the car is only a few inches above the ground.

If you look in the handbook under fuses, there is one F9 in the glove box that is listed as Audio system (after-market), 12 V socket, portable navigation support supply. It is likely there will be wiring connectors behind the dash for these that could be used for your phone and sat nav and it will be ignition controlled so should not result in a flat battery. Where are you thinking of locating the chargers and the connections to the sat nav and phone and what type of connectors will you use ?

The washer pump tends to be fastened to the bottom of the washer bottle and in Citroens is often in a front wheel arch needing the arch liner or under shield to be removed to get to it. One pump seems common and it turns in opposite directions for front and back washers. If you need to disconnect the battery, a procedure I have used without causing odd electrical problems is in the C5 Technical section, common problems post.

This is copied from the Haynes manual, it does not mention the bearing in these paragraphs but does on the ones for the push type mechanism: Pull type release mechanism. 4. Access to the inner end of the release fork shaft is not possible, and the shaft must be pulled or levered out from the outside of the bellhousing. A slide hammer may be attached to the groove in the end of the shaft, or alternatively a lever may be used taking care not to damage the transmission casing. (a photo shows a pry bar levering the shaft out using the groove on its outside and against the casing). 5. With the shaft removed, withdraw the release fork from the bellhousing, noting which way round it is fitted. Refitting Pull type release mechanism. 11. Apply a smear of molybdenum disulphide grease to the shaft and contact surfaces of the release fork. 12. Insert the shaft through the transmission casing then locate the release fork inside the bellhousing and insert the shaft through it into the inner location hole. Make sure that the slave cylinder contact point is facing the correct direction. 13. Using a soft metal drift, drive the shaft fully into the casing, taking care not to damage the inner blind hole. Haynes mentions that some cars have an unusual self adjusting pressure plate which needs pre adjusting (if not already supplied like this). This involves using a vice, large bolt and large diameter washers to fit the prongs, pushing the plate down on them, tightening the bolt and then to turn the plate's internal adjuster disc so 3 small springs on the plate's outer surface (below the prongs) are fully compressed. If you have one of these just check the small springs are fully compressed so this procedure is not needed. If it helps, within this post there is a link to pages from the C5 Haynes manual. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20815-front-brake-pad-and-disc-replacement/

The engine type is part of the vin on Citroens. RHZ is a DW10ATED from the Haynes manual but will likely be in the handbook under a section on engines. If it had RHY it would be a DW10TD. The RHY engine is 90 bhp and the RHZ is 110 bhp.

That looks as if it may be the part no. if you have air conditioning. Without a/c it could be 6450EL and is a round shape. To check really needs your vin to be used.

If you have the handbook for your car, key battery replacement will be in there - battery type and how to replace it, possibly under keys or remote control. No need to go to a dealer for the battery, it will be a standard type. The handbook will say how to re-initialise the key - something like put the key in the ignition, switch it so the dash lights up and then press a button on the key for some time until the button action works such as locks the doors.

On our last C3 the screen washer pump fuse would blow if the jets were frozen so maybe there is a blockage in the jets or pipework, or the pump is faulty. On cold days I would try a quick touch on the washer switch and if water did not come out, would leave it until it warmed up - this prevented the fuse blowing. Is the light fuse that is blowing just for the right hand side lights ? If so, I would check that tail light for corrosion, the wiring to it for damage and similarly to the front right side light and the number plate lights if these are also going out. You could also check the old bulbs from that fuse and not yet replaced in case one is faulty and that they are of the correct wattage. If the wiring to the rear lights goes through a hatch door to body rubber sleeve, check the wiring in it in case it is damaged - some cars like the mark 1 C4 are known for problems here. You could also check for good earths in case something is trying to earth through a bulb - you could try with the side lights on and then put the hazards on to see if the side lights dim. The auto lights may just be coincidence - looking at a Haynes wiring diagram for a C5, and if I have read this properly, the light 12 volt supplies are from the battery through relays in the bsi that are switched by the bsi, with the fuses on the light side of the relays. Hence a fault that causes a fuse to blow has to be between the fuse and light bulbs

This is listed as a weatherstrip or finishing seal. Unfortunately in the dash removal , it is noted in the procedures as the last item to remove (unclip) from the dash once the complete dash has been removed from the car - if it is possible to do this with the complete dash in place the procedures do not say.

Depending on the car options, the switching block (wipers/lights/radio/cruise switches) has a different part number eg the 2010 C3 has part nos 6243 39 or 40 or 41 or 42 or 43 depending on the options. Does anyone know if a different option switching block could be used and still work but by such as removing the cruise control switch if the car did not have that option ? If the car has esp the steering wheel angle sensor will need to be calibrated using diagnostic equipment. (This is posted in response to an email I received saying I had a message on the forum, but for some reason it never appeared so I could not reply).

When I have checked battery voltage with an engine running it has been about 14.4 volts so 14.55 does not seem too high - however, does it go up if the engine is revved ? Do the fuses blow if the washer / lights are turned on but without starting the engine - this would help rule out the alternator ?

Is the vibration damper the crankshaft pulley ? If so you may be able to see if the rubber in it is perished and if it needs replacing. If you register for the Citroen parts diagrams (see your other post on aux belt noise), on the parts diargrams the aux belt and pulleys are under Electric Unit / Engine Electricity / Current Generation.

For security reasons I have deleted your car reg no. since the vin is also there. The Citroen alternator part no is 5705 AA for a new one and 5705 ER for an exchange one. Either could be Bosch or Delphi but are 150 amp. The parts do not list a separate pulley. There are also different Bosch part numbers possible. It may help you to register on the service.citroen site as another professional, member of the Citroen Owners Club and then you can see the parts diagrams as a free service. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres

The link is listed as a separate part, possibly part no. 5273 81 but best to check with your vin. Is it now a plastic bit, on the mark 2 it is metal ? Do not forget to use axle stands if going under the car.

Your car looks good.

The trim panel below and to the right of the steering wheel looks as if it just pulls off after prising out a switch panel and disconnecting the wiring. It is not detailed in the Citroen procedures but this is based on the parts diagram picture.

Using the parts diagrams and the vin, you could have either compressor. The belts are different lengths - Sanden uses LE1744 (part no. 5750 VX) and Delphi LE1750 (part no. 5750 YG) but the tensioner is the same (part no. 5751 55). If you can see the existing belt and its markings then that may help. There is a second pulley that may need checking/replacing - part no. 5751 29. One option may be to get both belts on the condition the one not used can be returned.

When I did the discs and pads on our C3 I did not replace the bolts. In the Citroen service manual it does not say to replace the bolts, this only appears in the Haynes manual. In my Haynes I have noted the new brake pads have a chamfered end and this goes at the top, but there are probably arrows on the pads to show the correct way.

How much of the dashboard do you want to remove ?