paul.h

welcome to the forum. The engine could be from a 1.4 petrol Saxo, these had a metal oil filter up to RPO 08575 and the intake manifold in the parts diagrams looks similar to yours. As an example for Citroen part 0342G3 http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-Peugeot-Inlet-Manifold-Petrol-106-206-0342G3-/272377018201?hash=item3f6aef7759:g:UNoAAOSwLnBX2jeM&vxp=mtr It looks as if the manifold has been bodged though to fit the existing throttle body. You can see the Citroen parts diagrams if you register on the Citroen service site as an other professional non emergency services and as a member of the Citroen Owners Club http://service.citroen.com/pages/index.jsp If it is a Saxo engine it may be worth getting a Haynes manual that covers the Saxo as well as the one that covers the C3.

You can see the Citroen parts diagrams as a free service if you register on the service.citroen site as an other professional non emergency services and then as a member of the Citroen Owners Club http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres You may need to select your language first. Once on the site use your VIN (VIS) top left to find your car. The Citroen part number can then be used in an ebay search for used parts. There is a list of error codes on here in the Petrol diesel LPG section. It is not complete though and I usually do a google search with the code and Citroen. It could be you have a wiring problem, particularly if the abs pump is in the front left wing and you have the front left abs sensor showing a fault. This came up on a C4 with U1209 fault code http://c4owners.org/plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?171576 I think the brakes are bled using the usual method of pumping the pedal (or using a vacuum or pressure bleeder) until all the air is removed at each brake but then the Lexia is used to run the abs pump (using the abs or esp menu) if it is thought air has got in to the complete system rather than at one brake - this could be the case when the master cylinder has been replaced.

In October in London there is an environment pollution charge going to be put on cars that do not have euro 4 or later engines. A DS3 should be ok but it may later need the later euro engines so if you are thinking of buying a diesel and you will be going in to London, then you should consider going for a newer one with a blue hdi engine that uses adblue additive to reduce NOx emissions. Edit, 8/5/2017 - the environment charge for cars is a couple of years away yet, the one in October is for larger vehicles.

You can check the battery voltage, should be about 12.5 volts before starting the car and about 14.4 once the engine is running. You could also check the connector on the abs pump is clean and not loose. To correctly bleed the brakes I think the abs pump has to be run using your Lexia, did you do this to help remove any air ? Is the weather the same each day when the fault shows or not, just in case rain is affecting the abs sensor/its wiring/connector. At the end of the day, you may end up needing to use a dealer to sort the problems. A new abs pump could cost more than the value of the car so a used one may be better if it does need replacing.

Welcome to the forum. The DS3 is a good looking car but is expensive, only has 2 doors (plus the tailgate) and you could also look at the C3 which is similar but cheaper if you want a small car. Even if you are not going to buy from a dealer, go to one and have a look at cars there to familiarise yourself with one. You can also read/copy/print the handbooks in sections from here http://service.citroen.com/ddb/ you may need to select your language first. If you buy from a Citroen dealer you will get a 12 month warranty and their cars tend to be of better quality than other sources, but they can be a bit dearer. Go for as low a mileage and newest car you can afford since this usually means the car will cost less in repairs in the future. If you are buying privately you need to be careful, make sure everything works, the car drives ok (you may not be able to drive the car since you will not be insured), there is no obvious damage or accident repairs, no oil or other leaks, look underneath for any problems, the car is not stolen, the servicing is up to date (check the Warranty and Maintenance book for dealer stamps and any receipts), there are no outstanding loans against the car (car loan or other loans using the car as security) since the car is owned by the finance company and not the registered keeper, check the car details on the V5C registration document are correct. You are better taking somebody with you who knows about cars and you could pay the RAC to check the car.

The very brief info here may be enough to get you started http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23714-sliding-door-realignment/

Welcome to the forum. The reply to your topic in the Relay section should help.

Welcome to the forum. The following is from the Citroen service box procedures for the Relay 3 but it looks as if the handbrake shoes are adjusted through a hole in the wheel hub: Untighten the wheel bolts (rear).Raise and support the vehicle, with the rear wheels hanging free.Remove the rear wheels.Depress the brake pedal several times.Pull the handbrake lever firmly 4 to 5 times.Slacken the parking brake . Slacken the nut (1) under the van where the middle handbrake cable joins the 2 rear ones, in order to release the tension of the handbrake cable. Position the hole "a" in the hub opposite the toothed wheel (2) of the adjustment mechanism of the brake shoes.Turn the toothed wheel (2) to the left, to lock the rotation of the brake disc.Unlock the disc by turning the toothed wheel (2) 5 ± 1 teeth in the other direction.N.B. : The variation in the diameter of the shoes for 1 tooth is 0,035 mm. The clearance between the jaws and the brake drum should be 0,2 ± 0,04 mm. Slacken the locknut (3b) - this is on the front cable just before it is hooked on to the equaliser lever under the van.Screw the nut (3a) released by undoing the lock nut, until the lever (4) lifts slightly off its stop (5).Tighten the locknut (3b).ESSENTIAL : Respect the tightening torque for the nut (1).Tighten :The handbrake to the 6th notchThe nut (1) to 25 NmPull the handbrake lever firmly 4 to 5 times.Position the handbrake to the 6th notch.Tighten the nut (1) to 25 Nm.Check that the rear brakes are applied.With the handbrake released, check that the wheels can be turned freely by hand.Refit the rear wheels.Return the vehicle to its wheels and tighten the wheel bolts.

There is a change in the part number for the tank depending on the car rpo. RPO 12030 to 12151 the part is 4009S4. This is also the same part used on the 2001 to 2008 C5 so should be plenty of choice for a used one if a new one is too expensive. RPO before and after these it is 4009V8.

Thanks for letting us know how it was fixed. Where was the broken wire ?

You probably need a new one or at least one from another car to keep the cost down.

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum

Welcome to the forum

You seem to have a fault with the LH front abs sensor which could be its wiring/connector or the sensor. This may be causing some of the other faults since the road speed from the sensor will not be correct. Probably worth while to fix this and then see what faults are left. A possible check on the abs sensors is to see what resistance they give on a meter by disconnecting the wiring connector - a faulty one would likely give a different value to the other 3. I am not sure but you may also have a problem with the abs pump, its wiring or ecu.

Welcome to the forum. I can not help but let us know how you get on. On one of the C5 sections there is a pinned topic of people able to help with diagnostics. Any mechanical problems with your C5 and there will be a much better response from the forum.

Welcome to the forum. It could be a wiring fault or maybe the lock is faulty. You could check any wiring between the door and body to see if it has broken - this is common on a few Citroens so could apply to the Nemo.

Not really, I just replaced the rear strut on our car to save having to clean the drive but then left it over a year.

Not quite sure what you mean by noise - is it a normal fan noise or screeching as if a bearing has failed or is it just vibrating due to being loose ?

The vent pipe is a black plastic one from the top of the gaiter and the end is just poked in to the axle which has quite a large volume. If you pull the pipe out of the axle you would see if it is leaking oil by any mess/drips on the end of it. When one of the struts on our C5 was leaking from the end of the gaiter, there was no sign of any oil from the vent pipe but it is just something you could check.

I could not find any info on the differences between a 13 and 24 gear box but your problem may be related to the fault code you have found. This could be the initialisation procedure: N.B. : For all these operations, follow the procedure in the diagnostic tool. 1. Replacing the automatic gearbox without replacing the ECUPerform the following operations :Initialisation of the neutral position of the gear selection lever position sensorAdaptation programming procedure of the oil pressure solenoid valves and regulatorsInitialising the autoadaptivesReset to zero of the oil usage counter2. Replacement of the automatic gearbox ECUPerform the following operations :Read the value of the gearbox oil usage counter from the old ECUWrite the oil usage counter value into the new ECUInitialisation of the neutral position of the gear selection lever position sensorAdaptation programming procedure of the oil pressure solenoid valves and regulatorsInitialising the autoadaptives3. Replacing the automatic gearbox and the automatic gearbox ECUPerform the following operations :Initialising the autoadaptivesReset to zero of the oil usage counterAdaptation programming procedure of the oil pressure solenoid valves and regulators4. Draining the automatic gearbox oilPerform the following operations :Adaptation programming procedure of the oil pressure solenoid valves and regulatorsReset to zero of the oil usage counterN.B. : For downloading of the automatic gearbox ECU, there is no specific operation ; Follow the diagnostic equipment procedure.CAUTION : For a certain period, a quality of gear change can be obtained which is more or less satisfactory (adaptation of ECU parameters to the gearbox). To obtain satisfactory gear changing quality, it is necessary to carry out a road test involving frequent gear changes (Auto-adaptive laws).-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- P1741 Torque Converter Clutch Control Error A search came up with a few things to check from here http://www.myairbags.com/obd-dtc-code/p1741-torque-converter-clutch-control-error/ CodeP1741 Possible causesLow level or dirty transmission fluidFaulty Torque Converter Clutch SolenoidTorque Converter Clutch Solenoid harness is open or shortedTorque Converter Clutch Solenoid circuit poor electrical connectio Possible symptomsEngine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light) DescriptionWith the engine running in gear at cruise speed and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) detects an error due to excessive Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) operation

The car going up/down when left with the steering partly turned is due to the anti roll bar twisting and the height sensor being on the anti roll bar. Maybe the sensor is sticking, or the drop links or anti roll bar bushes are the problem. The obvious fix is to leave the steering in the ahead position. The level drop could be an internal leak in one of the rear struts.

Good to see you have sorted this. I usually check the lds level about once a year on our C5. On your rear struts there is a vent pipe from the gaiter that has an open end in the rear axle, have a look at these just in case the leaking strut is losing more fluid than you thought.

If the battery is more than about 5 years old it is due for replacement. I found on our C5 and the previous one if not used for more than 3 weeks the battery would go flat since the alarm takes a lot of power and when opening doors the bsi starts up and the suspension pump can run. If you have a towbar these also can help drain the battery unless its fuses are removed. I replaced the battery on both at about 7 years old since they no longer had enough capacity even when appearing to be fully charged at 12.7 volts - a quick indication of this is when using a charger the battery would quickly seem to be fully charged rather than taking many hours. Once the battery is sorted, if the engine management light does not go off, you will need to use a code reader to get the fault code and find out what the car thinks is wrong. If you disconnect/reconnect the battery too quickly this can lead to odd electrical problems since it prevents the bsi shutting down and saving settings. This is copied from the technical section common problems topic: 16. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3).

Welcome to the forum. It could be the front height sensor on the anti roll bar is sticking/faulty (the arms can break and these are available on their own) or maybe something else such as a pump fault. I would take the car to a Citroen dealer rather than an all makes garage since the dealer should have the knowledge/diagnostic equipment to fix the car. Work on the suspension does not take long so any labour charges will not be excessive. If you go under the car always use axle stands since if a height sensor is caught the suspension can drop to a very low level, quicker than you can get out of the way. With the car on ramps it should not be left with the front wheels hanging unless the lds fluid cap has been slackened first, otherwise the lds tank can split. If needed, the front bleed screw could be opened to let out some lds fluid to lower the suspension a bit so it can be driven to the dealer - but still use axle stands or ramps.