paul.h

You need the cap sensor fault fixing since this tells the car you have filled up with diesel and then some eolys fluid is injected in to the fuel tank. Just filling up the fluid without fixing this is a waste of time. The filler cap has 2 magnets in it, make sure these are present by checking with a steel screwdriver or something else. The cap needs to be removed and the magnets can be seen opposite each other if the cap is upside down. The magnets are then detected by a switch inside the rear wing at the top of the filler neck when the cap is put back - it could be this switch needs replacing or there is a problem with its wiring/connector. If you water jet the filter, if it does not get clean enough you can also try oven cleaner in it since this removes carbon, and then flush it again. You dealer will sell you the correct fluid if you are not sure about it. PVC gloves are usually good enough to protect against most chemicals but you should be able to get a material safety data sheet from the internet that will give any other specific requirements. Eye protection is usually goggles or safety glasses.

Welcome to the forum. You could check if the car battery is ok, should be about 12.5 volts before starting the engine. When you are next at the dealers you could also see if it needs a software update. Our Previous C4 kept losing the date/time and this was fixed by an update.

You could scotch lock a new wire into the one at the rh side and then do the same at the lh light wire, thereby connecting across the wire break. When you run the wire, if you follow the same route as the existing one (possibly runs under the back edge of the roof lining) you may find the broken bit. Many do not like scotch locks but if you wrap tape around them they do not come apart.

The spongy brakes could be air or the rear brakes need adjusting. Sometimes people adjust the handbrake too much which prevents the rear brake self adjusters working, resulting in a lot of pedal travel.

What year, model, engine is your car, is the handbrake manual or electric, are the rear brakes discs or drums ? There is a Haynes manual for the C4 covering up to 2010 model.

If nothing obvious can be found it will be cost effective to use a dealer, otherwise you could replace lots of parts before finding out what is wrong.

Pity the C5 has to go rather than the C4. If we had to get rid of a car we would need to keep the C5 since it is more useful, tows a caravan and can carry far more stuff. Have you had the C4 bonnet recall yet - ours was done a few weeks ago. A few grease filled stickers were put around the hook on the bonnet to help prevent corrosion and the hook coming off.

The wiring diagram in the Haynes manual for the C3 shows a common wire from the bsi (dash fuse box) going to the 2 reversing lights. So there must be a break in the wire between the lights.

I have not done this job, did you follow the procedure in the Haynes manual ? For handle removal it says to 'slide the white plastic operating lever forward so that the locking clip engages in the groove, and the rear of the exterior handle no longer engages with it'. It then says refitting is a reversal of removal.

If you have the Maintenance and Guarantee Guide with the service stamps for the car it gives the maintenance needed. In the one for our C5 it gives the Berlingo petrol engines timing belt as 100k miles or 10 years if sooner.

Welcome to the forum.

When is it making the noise, going over bumps, when turning, any particular engine speed, is the MOT due since this will check the suspension for any play ? When the strut was replaced was the strut top bearing in good condition ? Were the replacement parts new ones ?

You could see if the solenoid is putting 12 volts in to the starter. This would check the internal solenoid contacts and also the carbon brushes on the motor. You could also try 12 volts direct to the motor to bypass the solenoid to check the brushes but make sure it is not in gear. I would also first check the battery voltage is about 12.5 volts, just in case the battery has failed and the starter is ok.

The Haynes 3571 seems to be for a Seat Ibiza and not the Picasso. The 3451 is for the Citroen XM. The 3751 is for the Citroen Xsara but not the Picasso. For the Xsara Picasso 2000 to 2002 you need the Haynes 3944 as an example http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3944-Haynes-Citroen-Xsara-Picasso-Petrol-amp-Diesel-00-02-Workshop-Manual-/350888424724 . For the Xsara Picasso 2004 to 2008 you need the Haynes 4784, as an example http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Haynes-Workshop-Repair-Manual-Citroen-Xsara-Picasso-04-08-4784-/311494106717?hash=item48867ede5d:m:meaSuwPni2R8inyi1JIcJ6w You could get both of these but we had a 2005 Picasso and used the 3944 manual without any problems since at the time the 4784 had not been published.

On our petrol C3 that buzzes a bit when the engine is turned off and I think it is the spark plugs to clean them. When Citroen cars are switched off various things seem to happen as the bsi is shutting down, for this reason if the battery needs to be disconnected it should be done a few minutes after the ignition key has been removed and any doors last used to give the bsi time to shut down and save any settings.

I do not know how far you have got with this, but if you do not find any leaks you could try bleeding the clutch master/slave cylinders to change the fluid - it should be done anyway when the brake fluid is replaced every 2 years. I have found the best way to do it is by sucking the fluid through rather than pumping the pedal. I use a Mityvac pump for this but possibly a large syringe would work connected to the slave cylinder bleed nipple (valve). Make sure the brake fluid level is not low since the clutch take off is probably about half way up the brake fluid reservoir. This is the procedure from the Citroen service box without a vacuum bleeder: N.B. : For the bleed operation 2 operators are necessary.Chock and lift the vehicle on a 2 column lift. Couple a transparent pipe onto the bleed valve.Sink the end of the transparent tube in a container containing brake fluid, located lower down than the clutch slave cylinder .CAUTION : The end of the transparent pipe must be submerged into the brake fluid.Open the bleed valve.Action the clutch pedal manually through its entire travel rapidly 7 times.Leave the clutch pedal at the lower end of its travel during the last manoeuvre.Close the bleed valve.Allow the clutch pedal to rise to the upper position.Fill the brake fluid reservoir to its maximum capacity.Open the bleed valve.Action the clutch pedal manually through its entire travel rapidly 7 times.Keep the clutch pedal at the lower end of its travel during the last manoeuvre.Close the bleed valve.Uncouple the transparent pipe.Top up the brake fluid level to the MAX. level in the brake fluid reservoir.Press the clutch pedal rapidly 40 times.Lower the vehicle.Start the engine.Apply the handbrake.Engage a gear. Check that clutch mechanism friction begins at a dimension of 40 mm or more between the floor and the bottom of the pedal arm (the dimension is given as a guide).Repeat the bleed operations (if necessary).

Here cleaning the pump did not work but something was causing it to stick, post by jaysams80 http://www.citroen-o...m-fixedkind-of/

Possibly the lds fluid level is too low or maybe the height sensors are sticking. I have read this before where max height is not being reached but off hand can not remember what the fix was. I am pleased the pump was fixed, I will add links to this topic to the others.

Welcome to the forum. In the C5 sections there are pinned topics on common problems and advice on buying. Have a read of these.

Welcome to the forum.

Splits in the reservoir may be common, possibly caused when putting on a lift with the wheels hanging if the reservoir cap has not been slackened first.

Have a look at this in case it is a pump problem http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/24368-c5-exclusive-wont-raise-past-normal-ride-height/

You could check if the engine coolant temperature sensor is giving the right temperature but a code reader with live data will be needed. Also clean the throttle plate with carburettor cleaner or a cloth damp with turps/white spirit to remove any carbon build up so it will idle better. If it is the 2004 to 2008 C5 Haynes do a workshop manual that is worth getting. It says how to adjust the accelerator cable in case there is some slack in it.

Possibly the lock is a bit slow to work so the car is unlocking due to the delay. You could try more wd40 to try to clean it more or remove the door card to get to the lock and move it manually a few times to free it. If this does not help then maybe you need a new lock.

Welcome to the forum. I have seen you have posted the same question on other forums, did you buy the car in the end ?