paul.h

Welcome to the forum. Have you tried a Citroen dealer ?

Could be a problem with the accelerator pedal since these are electric but it could be something else. I would take it to a Citroen dealer and let them find out what is wrong.

This is nothing to do with cars. I have been noticing a lot that food companies are putting less in the packaging and not reducing the prices and quality may not be as good. Sometimes the changes are not initially obvious as the packaging is not changed. This may be the downward slope for some of them as it puts customers off their products, it definitely annoys me. Some of it could be the result of takeovers and having to pay back loans/cut costs or making the products elsewhere as part of rationalisation/globalisation. Some of the things I eat have changed but not the prices. I would prefer the prices to go up and the products not to be changed. It is usually easier to keep existing customers than try to get new ones but if the products are not the same or are not as good they can be lost for good. - Cadburys (Mondelez) started a couple of years ago by reducing the size of dairy milk chocolate bars and also putting less biscuits in their chocolate finger biscuits packs (there are more pictured on the boxes than inside). - Kelloggs have reduced the size of cornflakes packs apart from the 750g which increased to 790g. - Birds Eye now put 2 less fish fingers in all their pack sizes and the fish fingers themselves are not as big. - Today I have opened some Kipling bakewells and found there is less filling in them so you can see more of the pastry inside wall, plus they did not seem as nice. - Packaged cooked meats from supermarkets have large labels on them that hide the fat and the top piece seen is better quality than the ones below. There will be more examples, anyone care to add any ?

Welcome to the forum. Which engine does your car have, petrol, diesel and which size/power output ? If a diesel check the oil level, if high or if the turbo is worn the engine could be running on the engine oil. Is the exhaust smoking ? I doubt it is the clutch that is slipping since it would not cause the engine speed to increase without touching the accelerator pedal. Is the temperature indication normal, assuming you have indication since later C3 cars do not have it.

There is some info here on getting to the maxi fuses by jaysams80 http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/24368-c5-exclusive-wont-raise-past-normal-ride-height/page-1?do=findComment&comment=93072

If you have replaced brake pads before these are not much different to most cars.

The fuse box behind the glove box is the bsi (built in systems interface) one. Is the engine running ? If not the eco mode will not clear until it runs and eco mode is not usually a sign of a problem. Before going to the trouble of replacing the bsi, etc. I would use a Citroen dealer for a diagnostic check since I have read on here a few times where people have tried replacing the bsi/ecu/keys to match the ecu and bsi so the immobiliser works (or just the immobiliser chip in the key swapped but you need the keys from the donor car)/plus door locks and ignition lock (or just the key chip swapped)/radio or getting their existing one programmed in to the bsi - and at the end of the day the car has still not worked. So getting a correct diagnosis of the fault is important. I have moved the topic in to a subforum since ones outside only show for a couple of days and are then hard to find.

Welcome to the forum. You could try swapping the console and see if they have the same connectors. You will find that the car will adopt the higher mileage (km) of your existing ecu or the new console if it is higher. Even if you swap them back it will still keep the higher mileage. Check that the needles on the speedometer and rev counter are not loose since they can break/split on the motor shaft - I had this on our C5 and was able to glue the speedo needle back, set at 0 mph with the ignition lit up but the engine not running. I do not find the oil temperature gauge of any use on our C5. The temp goes up a little bit over time, not as much as the coolant temp, and I have never taken any notice of it, even when towing a caravan. The voltmeter with the engine running is about the middle, a bit lower before starting - since it does not give a value a proper voltmeter is needed to check the battery.

It is always difficult to try diagnosing faults remotely without seeing a car. We still do not know if it is a slave or master cylinder fault, so best not to ask for a new clutch yet since if you book it in for one, then a garage may just fit one. It might be when the clutch pedal was pulled up the connecting rod on the pedal has come out so that it can not be pushed back down.

I still think the thermostat needs changing, see if the top hose to the radiator warms up as the engine warms - it should not do this until the 3 bars are lit up if the thermostat is ok but even then if 3 bars is from 78°C it could still be faulty. However, a faulty thermostat would not put the engine management light on and a code reader will be needed to see what this is. A code reader with live data as an example that is not too expensive https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT200.html

Welcome to the forum. If it is the engine fuse box that needs replacing then you will not need to change the ecu or need any diagnostic programming. Make sure the replacement is from a car with the same options as yours so everything will work, presuming you are going the used part route. What makes you think the fuse box is faulty, what year is the car and which petrol engine is it - 1.4 75 hp TU3JP or 95 hp vti ? If it is the dash fuse box (bsi) then that is a different matter. Going the used route here would need the ignition remote keys, ecu, radio since they are all programmed together.

I had a C5 2004 with the 2.2 hdi 136 hp engine and now the 2007 with the 2.2 173 hp engine and on both the slave cylinder is on the outside, so hopefully it will be the same here, always assuming it is a cylinder - if not it might be a clutch out job to replace the release bearing or clutch.

If one of the cylinders has failed you might have brake fluid leaking out of it but not always. The master cylinder might be at the side of the clutch pedal on some models and the slave cylinder is on the clutch bellhousing. Both take about 1 hour to replace but reading the procedures it could be a lot less.

P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Definitely sounds like a cam sensor. These are only about £20 to £30 so worth replacing. We had one go on our C3 and that came up with fault codes P0341, P0342, P0343 (sensor A circuit bank 1 which would be the inlet one) and the engine light on, but after the initial non start would then run but in limp mode. I replaced both cam sensors on the basis if one had failed the other was probably also likely to fail. Note the sensors from Citroen come with seals so no need to buy new ones separately. However, I think there may only be 1 sensor on your car, part no 1920QN but you should use your VIN at the dealer to get the correct part. I posted this in the C3 Common Problems topic: 25. Camshaft position sensor failure - 2010 C3, 1.4 VTI petrol. This happened on our C3, 15k miles. The engine management light came on, anti pollution message, went in to limp mode so the performance was poor. Fault codes were read as P0341, 0342, 0343 camshaft position sensor A bank 1 or single sensor range, low, high. Both the inlet and exhaust sensors were replaced as I thought if one has failed the other may not be too far behind. On checking, the inlet one gave a resistance measurement between all of the 3 pins and the new and exhaust only did on 2 pins. £47 for 2 sensors, they come with new O-ring seals.

If you look at the Citroen parts diagrams for the C5 (X7) 2.2 hdi, they show the fuel rail coming complete with the pressure sensor at one end and the high pressure fuel regulator at the other end, the sensor/regulator not being listed separately. Citroen's procedures say the pressure sensor can not be separated from the fuel rail so the complete part has to be replaced. There are no mentions of needing diagnostic checks after fitting new parts. The Citroen part number for all this is 1570L3. Since an ebay search does not come up with this part then it may be available only from a dealer. If you want to try for a used part the same one is also on the earlier C5 2.2 hdi 173 hp engine as well as the c5 (X7) 2.2 hdi engine. Have you tried replacing the fuel filter since this could cause a low fuel pressure if blocked ?

Adding methanol is adding more of a liquid fuel so would supplement the usual aviation fuel making it richer, so it is easy to understand this giving a boost. I did a search on de verde hydrogen generator and the ASA have told them not to advertise claims about the benefits since their evidence could not be sunstantiated. I wonder if the OP is just trying to use our site to advertise the product, the car details are not given and the OP has not been back since making the post. I am tempted to mark BobMuk as a spammer but will leave it for a bit, once marked as a spammer any posts will go. ASA ruling can be found here https://www.asa.org.uk/rulings/de-verde-ltd-a13-228861.html

Welcome to the forum. Maybe one of the parking sensors is faulty. To see which one (if any) may need a diagnostic check but sometimes they may be heard to buzz. I have read on here that blue tooth problems could be due to the phone being more up to date than the car and a software update on the car may help. This might help http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/24512-bluetooth-easy/

When bleeding the clutch master/slave cylinder I find using a Mityvac vacuum pump on the slave cylinder bleed nipple works well to suck the air out and fresh fluid in. Need to be careful that the fluid level in the reservoir does not go too low though since its take off is usually part way down the side and not at the bottom as for the brakes. Just using the clutch pedal does not work as well as for brakes since the spring in the clutch cover is trying to push the slave cylinder back. The apparent electrical faults may be due to the flat battery and hopefully will clear after it is charged up and put back on the car. This is from the C3 Common Problems topic: 20. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3).

Another thing to do is clean the throttle plate and body since if there is a build up of carbon it stops the air getting through the small gap at idle and can cause stalling at idle, often when slowing down at a roundabout. Use a carb cleaner spray or a cloth damp with white spirit /turps to wipe it clean. I usually do this each service if I have a petrol car. Also check if the air filter needs replacing. I also agree it is unlikely to be a fuel filter problem, if blocked it would restrict the flow more at higher engine speeds when more petrol is needed. To check an oxygen (lambda) sensor you are better using a code reader with live data to see if it is switching - the inlet one should be constantly switching about 1.0 and the cat outlet one should be stable. Is the temperature gauge showing normal once warm - if not it may be giving the wrong fuel/air mixture. Could also be the egr valve needs cleaning in case it is not sealing fully. Ones on diesel cars are known for needing cleaning but also the ones on petrol cars suffer from carbon build up.

Welcome to the forum. Has the dealer test driven the car with you so they can see/accept there is a problem ? We are on our third C4 and never had any stability problems, always used Michelin tyres, what make do you have on now and before ? I always use the tyre pressures at the max value at the front and mid value for the rears. Is your presure gauge correct, maybe try a new one. Are the tyres wearing evenly - run your hand over the tread to check for feathering which would indicate the tracking was out. The suspension should be the same height at both sides but anyone can pull the car down so it seems right but strapping the car down to get the height right is done when checking the castor/camber/king pin angles. Have you checked for broken coil springs such as a bit missing off the end coil ? You could measure the wheel arch gaps on new cars at the dealer to check if they differ across the sides with them. I once had a Saab where it was unstable, especially going over manholes but I had just replaced the steering rack and had not got the tracking set up, once this was done it was ok again. It is possible the car has been in a crash and maybe not repaired properly. Are there any signs of newish paint anywhere or under the car or slightly different shades ? With a Citroen select approved used you should have a 1 year warranty (unless possibly from a car group like Evans Halshaw) which can be used at any Citroen dealer so you do not have to keep going back to the same one. I do not know if it is too late to reject the car but under current legislation if there is a problem dealers get 1 chance to fix it and then you can get your money back. Have a look at this topic http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21408-new-c4-front-brake-pad-clean-or-replacement/ You could also see if the dealer will part ex it against another car - that would let you know if they know something is wrong with it.

The brakes on your car should be the same as the front ones on the 2010 on C4 and there is a write up I did here http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21408-new-c4-front-brake-pad-clean-or-replacement/ Also the following is from the Citroen service box workshop procedures for your car with some comments: 2. Removing Untighten the wheel screws. Lift and support the vehicle with front wheels suspended. Remove the front wheels. Remove the spring (1) which holds the caliper against the bracket (use a screwdriver to lever out the ends where they go in the holes). Remove : The blanks covering the ends of the plastic parts containing the caliper guide bolts (2). The bolts (2) - a hex bit may be needed for this, could be 7mm. CAUTION : Take care not to twist the brake hose . N.B. : The brake caliper must not remain suspended by the brake hose. Move aside the brake caliper (3) and secure it to the bodywork - you could hang it up using a welding rod or something similar. Push the pistons back ; Using tool [1] (insert a shim between tool [1] and the pad to push the pistons fully back in their housings). This tool is like a big set of pliers but I would think a large g clamp or similar will do. Check the brake fluid level. Remove the brake pads . 3. Cleaning CAUTION : Do not use compressed air to clean the brakes. 3.1. 1st possibility Clean the brake disc and the brake caliper, using an approved brake cleaning product. Allow to dry and to drain. Wipe with a paper towel. 3.2. 2nd possibility Use an approved dedusting instrument (refer to the Material and Equipment Catalogue). 4. Refitting Visually check : The seal around the piston That the protective gaiters are in good condition and correctly adjusted Wear of the brake discs - the new thickness may be 26 mm and the minimum 24 mm but if the pads are worn enough to need replacing than chances are the discs will be worn to the minimum and need replacing. Replace any defective parts. CAUTION : No trace of grease, oil or lubricant can be tolerated on the brake pads. Refit : The new brake pads The brake caliper (3) N.B. : At each removal, systematically replace the screws (2). Refit : The screws pre-coated (2) (New bolts) ; Tighten to 27 Nm (but it is better to fit the bolts after the springs) The blanks ( as "a") The spring (1) - these springs may be difficult to fit back, make sure the pistons are fully pushed in- fit one end of the spring to the caliper, wearing gloves hold the other end of the spring in its hole with a thumb and then with difficulty, use the other hand to fit it over the carrier. Check the spring is pushed fully in place. Trying to fit the spring without first pushing the piston back and with the caliper bolts in place does not work. Check the brake fluid level and top up if necessary. Refit : The front wheels The wheel bolts Return the vehicle to its wheels and tighten the wheel bolts (100 Nm). ESSENTIAL : Apply the brakes, with the engine running, several times before driving the vehicle.

Which engine does your car have and how many miles ? Is the fuel filter change up to date or due again if it is a diesel - if due it is not a waste of money to replace it, even if it does not fix the fault since it needs doing anyway.

Welcome to the forum. We've had a few Citroens and not really noticed any bad creaking, or at least bad enough to want to do anything about it. May be you could remove a door panel to see if anything is loose or any retaining clips are broken. If you go to a dealer see how the panels on a new car compare with yours.

There is a topic here on fixing a leaking diesel pump by replacing the seals http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/9041-c5-22-hdi-h-p-diesel-pump-leak-fix/

Depending on which engine and if it is a hatchback or estate, from the official figures you should be getting about 48 to 50 mpg, unless you are driving round towns, lots of short trips, driving fast, all of which will reduce it. I have found on the C5 on motorways if you keep to about 65 mph and not above, the fuel economy will be about 5 mpg higher than at 70 mph. From a full tank if you use 12 gallons (54 litres) before refilling, at 50 mpg will give about 600 miles.