paul.h

Welcome to the forum. It is about a year since anyone with a 2CV was last on this forum, so I suspect you are unlikely to get any help through this forum.

Our C4 1.6 hdi does this and I think it is the egr valve being moved to help keep it clean.

Welcome to the forum. I guess you have done this by now, but possibly the cover was not undone far enough or you did not pull it up hard enough to remove the cover.

Code readers do not cost much and are a lot cheaper than paying somebody to read a fault code. If you do buy one get one that does engine live data since it will be more useful. Or you can spend a bit more and get a Chinese Lexia copy to put on a lap top. As an example https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT200.html

Welcome to the forum. If by rear washer you mean the rear wiper moves without you using the wiper switch, then it is possibly the wiper motor has a fault so it can not park the wiper. Our 2003 C3 rear wiper would do this or when being used would not always stop. It was fixed when the wiper motor was replaced with one from a scrap yard. You could also check the wiring where it goes between the body and tailgate, just in case it is damaged. If it is the wash water that is coming on but only from the rear and not the front, then it could be a switch or wiring fault.

You should be able to keep your existing keys by swapping the insides over, then saves changing the locks since you are only wanting the immobiliser chip to be recognised by the bsi. As well as the bsi you may need to get the radio or at least have your existing one programmed in to the replacement bsi so it will work. Whoever does the work will need the correct Citroen diagnostic Lexia tool to programme your car to the bsi. You could always replace the ecu/bsi yourself and if the car then runs, take it to somebody who will just do any programming needed.

If the keys have the remote unlocking buttons, inside is a small black bit of plastic which is the immobiliser chip as well as the circuit board for the remote locking. You need this in a key so the car will start when the key is in the ignition switch. The chip in the key is specific to your car. To get another chip to start your car will need a key ordering from a Citroen dealer. You could also check with a Citroen dealer and they may be able to provide a new door lock to match your existing keys - I think this would be the overall best solution so you only need to carry 1 key. To programme a key so it works the remote locking after changing the battery, it needs to be put in the ignition switch, turned so the dash lights up and then the lock button on the key held down until the doors lock. This is in the handbook somewhere so you should check the procedure before trying it. Since the new key wil not go in the ignition and will not have the chip, it probably will not programme this way. You could try though with the original key in the ignition and try holding down the lock button on the new key to see if this works. Whatever though, you are going to have to use the old and new keys all the time due to the lack of a chip and the ignition and door locks using different key blades.

Welcome to the forum. You would need to trace the new wiring, it probably comes direct from the battery through the switch, a fuse and to the fan. Then at the fan you would need to connect back the original wiring, if you can find it and hope it has not been modified. You may find the switch wiring has simply been connected up to the existing at the fan end as a back up in case the fan does not come on when needed. If possible I would contact the previous owner to find out why the switch has been put in since to guess may come up with the wrong reason. Possible reasons could be - the fan relay in the fuse box may have failed so the fan would not run. - a wiring problem so the fan would not run. - an aftermarket fan has been put on which would not work with the existing system. - the high temperature which normally puts the fan on was not working - does the temp gauge show normal which is 3 bars once the engie has warmed up ? If it is a 1.4 petrol then there are 2 temperature sensors on the cylinder head end. One does the gauge and switches the fan on when 96°C and if it goes a bit higher increases the fan speed. A second sensor gives a high temperature warning, puts the temp gauge to all 6 bars and starts the fan. - the engine thermostat is faulty so the engine overheats. A new themostat is not expensive so to fit a switch because of this is a bodge. If you have air con check if this works since it needs the engine fan to run and if the existing fan controls have been by passed it may prevent the air con working.

I think you would be better fitting a second hand pump (hydraulic unit, integrated bhi - different names for the same thing) rather than going for a new one at the price you have been quoted. I think it will need a diagnostic after fitting to configure it. How confident are you they are correct in the diagnosis of a faulty pump ?

Have you tried a replacement blower since the one in the pictures has markings on it that a scrap car dealer might put on ? The air conditioning compressor will not run if the cabin blower is not already running. So this does not mean any of the pressure sensors checking the refrigerant are faulty. What pressure did you measure for the refrigerant, should be about 4 bar on the low pressure side if there is enough refrigerant to start the compressor, but if there is not enough refrigerant the compressor will not continue to run as the high pressure after the compressor will be too low. The high pressure sensor may be on the condensor where the pipe from the compressor joins. I do not know where the low pressure sensor is, possibly it is on the compressor. In the Haynes manual there is a typical wiring diagram for the heater blower but the wire colours do not correspond to yours, I do not know if you have looked at this diagram in the Haynes manual to see if it helps. It gives wires going to the blower - from the heater control panel blue which splits to brown to the blower motor and black to the resistor. - from the blower motor white which goes to green/yellow and then earth. - from the heater control panel grey which goes to the resistor. - from the heater control panel blue which goes to the resistor. - from the heater control panel green which goes to the resistor. The controller takes feeds from the engine fuse box, the bsi and the instrument cluster. it also connects to the diagnostic socket which would allow a Lexia to check the heating system.

Welcome to the forum. I would buy them from a Citroen dealer using your car VIN, that way you know they are the correct specification and are new and have not been abused. Better than forever worrying if a wheel is going to come off every time you use the car. A look in the parts diagrams for the C5 (X7) lists 2 different bolts 540567, 540572. The first seem to be the most common and the second where steel wheels or light alloys are used - both have the same thread size so you may not be able to visually tell the difference. They are the same part numbers as used on the C4 (B7) model. They seem to be about £3 each on ebay so will be similar at a dealer and at least from a dealer you know they will not be chinese copies. If the existing locking bolts are in good condition, you could note the bolt key number in your handbook and order a spare from your dealer if you are concerned you are going to lose it. Then always use a torque wrench when doing the bolts up or checking them if done up by somebody else. According to the Citroen service box procedures, the wheel bolts should be done up to 100 Nm for steel or alloy wheels. Since your car has the hydractive suspension, you should raise it to max height and then switch the engine off before jacking up to avoid possible suspension problems later. Also do not go under the car without using axle stands since if a height sensor is caught the suspension can quickly drop to a very low level, quicker than you can get out of the way. Have a look on the c5 Technical Section at the pinned Common Problems topic for things to check on your car, leaking steering racks being one of the most common.

Have you got the temperature control set up via the radio menu so that both sides are adjusted together, just in case one side has a problem that is preventing the other side working. If you had access to a Lexia you could probably do a diagnostic to find out what is wrong. On one of the C5 sections there is a pinned topic of members able to help others with diagnostics.

Welcome to the forum. What car is it ?

Please add any replies here where the topic is continued http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/24559-blower-resistor-where-is-it/

Please add any replies here where the topic is continued http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/24559-blower-resistor-where-is-it/

Please add any replies here where the topic is continued http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/24559-blower-resistor-where-is-it/

Please add any replies here where the topic is continued http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/24559-blower-resistor-where-is-it/

Do you have climate control where both sides are temperature controlled separately ? Are the other flaps that direct the air still working ?

Maybe to help other people thinking of replying, you have already established the blower resistor is not separate from your blower and is built in to the blower itself. Links to your other topics on the same problem. If I get time/can be bothered since it will need maybe half an hour, I will lock all these and put links to this topic, otherwise people could end up replying to many topics which are all the same and not see the end result once the problem is fixed. It would have been preferable to have continued on one of your existing topics rather than starting a new one. It seems as if after at least 1½ years you have still not managed to sort the problem and got the blower working. I think if it was me after all this time I would use a dealer. Since you will not have been able to use the air con with the blower not working, the air con seals will probably have dried out and the refrigerant leaked out so without spending many £100s it will not work again. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/24122-electrical-problems/ http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23995-help-needed-f702-f734/ http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23946-citroen-c5-dash/ http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23328-heater-fan/

If the car is not yet 3 years old it will still have a Citroen warranty and you should take it back to the dealer. It could be the oil level probe that goes in to the sump is faulty or its wiring. Depending on which engine and model your car is, the level probe may be at the back of the engine or at the front. Before starting the engine and the dash is lit up, does the oil can symbol light up and then go out once the engine is running - just to check the oil pressure is ok. Also have a read of this from the Commom Problems topic in case it is a faulty fuel pump relay needing a new fuse box: 33. New C5 (mark 3/X7) very low engine oil pressure warning and cuts out. Also warning messages for depollution fault and eps fault and possibly dpf full. This may be a common problem and appears to be a fault with the fuel pump relay needing the engine compartment fuse box to be replaced, or possibly cleaned. See these posts http://www.citroen-o...e-oil-pressure/ and http://www.citroen-o...ure/#entry81090

Is the engine warming up as normal on the temperature gauge ? Are the hoses to/from the heater matrix at the bulkhead both getting hot ? If yes to both then it is likely the warm air flap in the heater box is not moving to the hot position. This could be a problem with the flap motor, the flap shaft (it is common for these to break), the controller. This is from the pinned Common Problems topic: 10. The air conditioning only gives cold air at one side or does not cool much. The evaporator matrix cooling the air on the C5 is long and if the amount of refrigerant is low then there will not be enough to cool all the matrix for both sides of the cabin. First step should be a regass then if that does not work and there are no leaks then look at replacing the air flap control motors. A regass may be about £50, a flap new motor about £60. It could also be damage to the air flap shaft motor fitting - see this post http://www.citroen-o...c5-2002-aircon/ . I had to have both C5s regassed when about 7 years old, on the second one there was a printout that showed there was only 93 g of refrigerant left and that 525 g were put back in yet the air con was working and gas could be heard going through the pressure control valve but the air was not cooling much. Also have a look at this topic for a possible fix to a broken heater flap connection http://www.citroen-o...or-air-bag-ecu/ Have a look at this topic for alternative ways to fix the broken flap connection by extending the motor spindle using one from another motor or buying a motor already with an extended spindle http://www.citroen-o...ulation-aircon/ Have a look at this topic for a case where a new comms 2000 unit fixed the manual air con not working http://www.citroen-o...-manual-aircon/ In the May 2015 Car Mechanics magazine there is an excellent article by Rob Marshall where he dismantles a 2004 to 2008 C5 heating system with climate control to replace broken heater flaps (the shaft on one had broken completely and the other was breaking). This involves removing the dash and then the heater unit from the car and then fitting new flaps from a dealer (6480E3 for dual zone and 6480E4 for mono system, both £58.53). There are 63 photos showing all the steps. This topic has some tips on replacing these flaps http://www.citroen-o...-problem/page-0

The temperature gauge jumping from 0 to 2 bars on and off quickly and the expansion tank being empty could be a sign of a head gasket problem. If the temperature sensor is going between liquid and air, when air goes passed the temp may drop until liquid goes passed again. So as well as a thermostat you may also have a head gasket fault. When the old spark plugs are removed this may reveal the problem - on our C3 the plugs would be a light beige colour which is normal. If yours have any that are black it could mean that cylinder is not right such as the head gasket leaking and if the piston is clean it could mean coolant leaking in to it is cleaning it. The garage should check for a leaking head gasket with a pressure test whilst the plugs are out but can also do a sniffer test in the expansion tank for combustion products. The water dripping out of the exhaust could be the normal condensation as the engine/exhaust warms up. If though you can see steam coming out all the time once warmed up, it can be a sign of a leaking head gasket.

We are still waiting for the site admin (owner) to come back on the site, last time was September 2016.

I think they will be aerials, they are on our C5 estate and you can see breaks in the elements which a heater would not have.

Better quality ones should be the ones dealers sell. They may be a bit dearer than elsewhere but if the originals lasted more than 3 months they are worth it. Unless you are doing a very high mileage, only 3 months might suggest a problem causing them to fail - did you try taking any back for a refund.