paul.h

If you are just changing the sensor and not the arm clamp on the anti roll bar, you would like to think it is just a case of unclipping the sensor arm, undoing the electrical connector and then unbolting the sensor. The suspension height ought not to change when the new sensor is put on as long as the anti roll bar clamp has not been moved, so there might be no need for diagnostics. The sensor arms can break and these are available from Citroen without needing the sensor. However, the picture of the front sensor in the service box procedures shows the sensor from above inside the engine bay but does not have a procedure for it. The time to do the job though is nearly 2 hours plus extra time to check the suspension heights, so I am not sure how much work is needed to replace the sensor. There is a procedure in the RTA manual and that has the subframe being lowered slightly so it looks as if it is a big job. Before touching the height sensor, you should raise the car to the max height and then disconnect the battery so the pump will not run. Use axle stands under the car body so the car can not drop if anything goes wrong.

I did a search and it seems to be a common thing on some hdi Peugeots without any faults being found. Maybe you might have to live with it since you have not found anything wrong. You could try a dealer as a last resort. Coastline has not been on here for over a month so may not see this topic for quite some time but you could try a message to him. The email alerts do not seem to be working though.

If the car will be on the ramp and jacked up so the wheels are hanging, then before jacking up make sure the suspension is raised to max height before switching the engine off, then slacken the LDS tank cap to release the pressure. Do not tighten the cap until the car wheels are back on the ground or there is a risk the tank can split. This is taken from Citroen's service box procedures. I suspect it is unlikely a leaking rack would leak oil so far forward. When you check the LDS fluid level the suspension should be at minimum and the fluid should be just at the bottom of the tank filling neck strainer. I have put your car info in your signature to save mentioning it in new topics.

Just seen in one of your posts from 2016 you mention an exclusive. If this is the same car then you should check the bottom of the LDS tank since if this is leaking the fluid can drip down to the area under the wing. Also the LDS fluid will be the power steering fluid and it should be an orange colour when clean/new.

Is your car an exclusive with the hydractive suspension ? You will need to follow the pipe to see where it comes from/goes to. The steering fluid pipes on the 2008 on C5 are known to fail but can be expensive. Check the level in the power steering tank to see if it is low but if it is leaking where shown, you should see drips on the pipe. The steering racks also commonly leak where the column shaft enters it, possibly due to rusting and wearing the seal. There are notes about this in the Common Problems pinned topic and if the rack is leaking, then a reconditioned one is the cheapest repair. 25. New C5 (mark 3/X7) steering rack oil leaks - at least 8 cases so far. We have 2 members jefflad and Howiec with steering rack leaks that are proving difficult to fix. Where the supply and return pipes join the rack, the seals are leaking fluid. It seems Citroen want to replace the pipes to fix this and that just replacing the O-ring seals does not work. Citroen also do not sell the seals separately. An additional 2 members, Parkesie and johnfing, have found a leak from the steering column shaft input seal on top of the steering rack, which initially was thought to be the pipe seals. This seal also is not available so replacement racks have been fitted. The column shaft has badly rusted so may be the cause of the leak - applying grease could possibly prevent this. See http://www.citroen-o...uid/#entry75684 . See also this topic for info on replacing the rack http://www.citroen-o...ent/#entry81594 There are 2 more cases here and one being caused by corrosion of the rack where the alloy oil pipes connect http://www.citroen-o...-leaking-fluid/ Have a look at this topic from C5greener for another leak point in the piping near the rack http://www.citroen-o...-steering-leak/ This topic from taximan61 for his 2011 C5 (X7) had the leaking rack and pipes repaired in Wakefield. This is the youngest C5 with a leaking rack so it is not just the early ones that leak. http://www.citroen-o...-steering-leak/ The company in Wakefield also recommend replacing the low pressure pipe since it is alloy at the end but is held by a steel clamp which causes corrosion. Another to add to the list from twoseefives http://www.citroen-o...eering-failure/

Maybe you could also check the washer fluid bottle for a leak since I think that will be in the driver's side front wing. If it is a coolant leak and you can not find anything obvious, then have a look at the water pump in case its seal is leaking. If it is the water pump it will need the timing belt removing so would be a good time to replace that and its tensioner and pulleys. Other things in that area are the power steering pump and if you have an exclusive, the LDS tank which is known to split.

You probably need a diagnostic check to see if the various sensors are working properly. When it happens you could also check if the key is being recognised by leaving it in the ignition and opening a door - if recognised then you should get an alarm, if not then it might be an immobilser issue and the key might need to be initialised as if its battery was replaced. Does it start ok when left overnight as a check if the fuel filter is draining back.

Interesting comment on the yo-yoing, I will add this to the common problems topic.

As a last resort, I find stillsons are better than mole grips and do less damage. Steve at coastline taxis is our C5 expert on here but has not been on for a few weeks. You could try a message to him but I am not sure if the email alerts are working. You could always try a phone call to coastline taxis in South Shields and ask for the workshop and I am sure he would be happy to help. There are a couple of phone numbers 0191 455 2222 and 0191 455 1133 on the internet.

This car is a petrol so no DPF but if there was a leak on the exhaust manifold it could affect the lambda sensor readings. So a leaking manifold could still be the cause of the fault and is worth checking since it does not cost anything apart from time.

If you do not have a brake pipe spanner with the cut out, ( http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/spanners-wrenches/halfords-professional-flare-spanner?cm_mmc=Google+PLA-_-Tools-_-Spanners+&+Wrenches-_-470112&istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istItemId=miaiwl&istBid=tztm&_$ja=tsid:94971|cid:865695754|agid:42483196303|tid:pla-328474287026|crid:203186066568|nw:g|rnd:16110831032166432937|dvc:c|adp:1o2|mt:|loc:1006876&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4fbhwfbQ2gIVyLTtCh24owJ5EAUYAiABEgKcyPD_BwE ) then you can cut the pipe just above the fitting and use a 6 point socket so no need to use mole grips. You could try a few days before though to see if the fitting will easily loosen with the pipe spanner or a good fitting open ended spanner. A large adjustable spanner may be better than a smaller one since it will have a larger contact area on the fitting. If you then find it will not loosen, then go for the new part. A few days before doing the job I would also apply wd40 to the pipe where it goes through the fitting to stop the pipe twisting as the fitting is undone.

It could be anything that can affect the exhaust emissions. Without using a code reader it is not possible to know what could be wrong and you could try replacing lots of parts before finding the fault. It could be one of the engine sensors or parts such as cam shaft sensor, exhaust lambda sensor, exhaust catalyst, exhaust leak affecting the lambda sensors reading, spark plug, ignition coil, air flow meter, air temperature, fuel injector, air leak between the air flow meter and manifold, air leak on one of the sensor pipes, egr valve, etc. Without a code reader all you can do is have a look under the bonnet for anything obvious such as a loose pipe or connector on a sensor. Rather than go to a garage you would be better buying a code reader.

Good to see you have managed to fix it. Something we have learnt from your experience is to replace any worn parts before adjusting the tracking. Were the worn parts picked up at the MOT tests ?

Off hand I do not know the pipe diameter without measuring it but when I have made up brake pipes I have used the old fittings again if still in good condition.

You have not given the year of your car but in the Haynes manual for the 2004 to 2010 model C4 under the section for door refitting (page 11.8) it has Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Once the door is fitted, adjust the striker plate so that the door opens and closes easily but firmly. With the door handle pulled out, shut the door and check that the lock slides over the striker plate without scraping. Before you slacken the striker plate torx screws, I would mark its position so it is easy to check how much it has been adjusted or to put it back in the original position. As well as adjusting the striker plate, you could check for wear in the door hinges which may have allowed the door to drop slightly.

I've had our C5 since it was 4 years old so I must have found the pipe problem soon after getting it, well before it had the time to wear through but long enough ago to not remeber it. So if you include our car as having this problem and the one on ebay, then it is 4 out of 4 cars. I will add this topic to the Common Problems one so hopefully it will be seen by more people.

When our 2015 C4 1.6 hdi had its 2018 service at the dealer, they replaced the aux belt tensioner as a recall without charge to us. It is not classed as a safety recall so you are not contacted and if the car had not gone to a Citroen dealer it would not have been done. It looked as if the old belt was re-used so possibly they just inspect the belt and if ok will not replace it.

When our 2015 C4 1.6 hdi had its 2018 service at the dealer, they replaced the aux belt tensioner as a recall without charge to us. It is not classed as a safety recall so you are not contacted and if the car had not gone to a Citroen dealer it would not have been done. It looked as if the old belt was re-used so possibly they just inspect the belt and if ok will not replace it.

I have checked our 2007 C5 estate where the small diameter hydraulic pipe leaves the side undertray just in front of the fuel tank. I was pleased to find it is clear of the tray by about 5 mm and is not damaged. There was some grease on the pipe though so maybe I found this before and bent the pipe a bit out of the way, using grease to prevent pipe corrosion where the plastic covering was damaged.

Welcome to the forum. What car is it ? There is a problem with the site that is keeping new members on validating but there should be an email for you to validate.

You might be able to put some white paint/tippex across the face of the pulley and with the engine running see if the line separates but a strobe light might be needed to see it or if it is bad when the pulley stops the lines will be separated. The rubber might also look perished/split so a mirror and torch will be useful. I do not know what can happen if the pulley is left for some time if it is perished. Looks as if the pulley is common to other Citroens such as the Berlingo 2.0 hdi and a quick ebay search comes up with this for £38.88 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FEBI-24628-Belt-Pulley-crankshaft/292021590801?epid=1005801628&hash=item43fdd7db11:g:XlwAAOSwv89ZejRi The RPO number change equates to 2nd June 2002 https://bartebben.com/map/citroen-peugeot-rp-dam-orga-number.html The pulley bolt will be tight and the torque I think might be 70 Nm followed by 82° but I am not sure since I have also found in the service box and also the RTA manual 40 Nm then an angular tightening of 51° using loctite on it. To undo it the flywheel will need locking plus I have read the bolt could have adhesive on it, so when undoing if it gets tighter do it up a bit more and then undo a bit, repeating this until undone, otherwise trying harder and harder might snap the bolt. The following is from the Citroen service box: This bulletin describes the procedure that is additional to the methods for removing-refitting the timing belts on DW engines.1. ToolingEquipment :Reversible torque spannerHot air gun with adaptors2. Presentation : The crankshaft pulley fixing bolt "a" : Zone pre-coated with "thread-lock" type adhesive.The crankshaft pulley bolt (1) has on its thread an adhesive "a" which activates on tightening. This adhesive makes the assembly of the crankshaft belt drive pulleys safe.On slackening, particles of adhesive could possibly accumulate in significant quantities in the threads, thus rendering the operation particularly difficult and also possibly leading to the bolt breaking inside the crankshaft.It is important to keep to the slackening procedure so that the operation will succeed.3. Slackening procedureCAUTION : Use of an impact wrench is prohibited : Risk of the bolt breaking inside the crankshaft.CAUTION : Keep to the method "Removing - refitting : Associated timing belt".3.1. Slackening at the correct torque CAUTION : The flywheel immobilisation tool must be in place.Slacken the bolt (1) ; Using a wrench (Do not exceed 1 turn).CAUTION : During the slackening, make sure that the resisting torque does not exceed 200 Nm ; By using a reversible torque spanner.Slackening the bolt (1) :Unscrew the bolt (1) ; Monitor the resisting torqueIf the effort increases, redo up and then renew the slackening (More than once if necessary)Alternately repeat the above operations until the bolt is completely slackenedN.B. : As the slackening effort increases, it is important to retighten fully so as to spread the adhesive which has accumulated in the threads.CAUTION : Stop the operation if the slackening effort is too great ((greater than 200 Nm). Go to the next section.3.2. Slackening with heating of the bolt CAUTION : The heat of the gun can damage the rubber sealing on the ancillary drive pulley. Do not exceed 4 minutes of heating.Heat the head of the bolt (1) for 4 minutes ; Using a hot air gun fitted with a small calibre adaptor.CAUTION : Monitor the slackening torque, using the torque spanner, do not exceed 20 m.daN.Undo the bolt (1) immediately.Repeat the operation for 1 minute if the slackening effort still remains too great.4. Checked - CleaningCAUTION : Check the state of the rubber sealing on the ancillary drive pulley. Check the state of the target of the engine speed sensor. Replace parts that are damaged.Always replace the bolt (1) if the slackening torque reached 200 Nm.Clean (M14 x 150 tap) :The threadThe tap

The rear seat belts have different part numbers to the front so must be different. You could also try a bit of sticky tape on the belt metal bit since it may only be a small amount of wear that needs taking up. You could try a screwdriver in the buckle to see which bit is pushed to turn off the warning and that will give you an idea of which area of the metal part has worn and needs making slightly larger by tape or card. Come MOT time though any bodge might not be acceptable so you could ask your garage about this before submitting your car for testing. I am not sure about this, but it might be if the car thinks the belt is not fastened then in a crash the pretensioner might not be activated. If you have the belts crossed over then the pretensioners might work on the wrong belts. If you are certain the metal part has worn, then at the end of the day, you may need to replace the belt, either a new one or one from a breakers. If from a breakers do not get one from a car that has crashed since the belt could be damaged. If you post your VIN I can check which is the correct part number or if you register on the service.citroen site you can access the parts diagrams as a free service and look yourself. Register as an other professional non emergency services and as a member of the Citroen Owners Club. Once on the site use your VIN top left to find your car. The seat belts are under Equipment, Front Seat Assembly, Front Safety Belts. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres you might need to select your language bottom right first.

If you swap the front belts over they will not work since they are different and have different part numbers. Remember they work as the car stops rapidly going forward and if you swap them over they would only work when going backwards since the reel is turned round 180° if swapping sides. The part numbers also vary, so to get the right one you would need to use your VIN in the parts diagrams. As a guide to the cost of a new one, we had to buy a rear seat belt for a 2010 C3 and it was £175 at a dealer. From the parts diagrams the pyrotechnic part is built in at the base of the buckle at the side of the seat, so if only changing the belt you should not need to worry about the pretensioner. However, if you need to deactivate it, make sure the air bag light works and then after removing the ignition key, just disconnect the battery and wait 10 minutes. In the Technical section pinned Common Problems topic is a procedure for disconnecting/reconnecting the battery that will not cause any odd electrical problems which allows the bsi time to shut down. Before spending any money, why not try a bit of card in the buckle to see if that can take up the play/wear.

You could also check if the crank shaft pulley rubber insert is failing since I think this might give a similar noise to a tappet.

Thankyou for posting this, I will check our C5 later and also pin the topic.