coastline taxis

Im not saying the following is what caused it but its plastic and heats up and cools down so it could of just become britile and failed or could just be defective. just noticed yours is 2005 so that will be the other bleed screw as for draining just undo the bleed nipple on the bottom of the radiator and remove the expansion bottle top. Then just top up and bleed

The part your describing is a bleed valve for bleeding the cooling system. sounds like its just come loose when engine is cold pour water into filler and slacken the valve of again till you hear and see all the air come out then a bit further down the engine theres another bleed screw on one of the main water hoses slacken that one of till you hear and see all the air come out again. Now start engine up and allow to idle till you hear the fan cut in 3 times. Allow to cool and check level in expansion tank and top up if needed. Sound like its just been one of them daft thing and nothing to really worry about best regards steve

Give it a go it as easy as it sounds. Having said that ive never tried one of the cones as was taught to alway take the joint off to clean out the old grease and clean the joint up. Dont know about the M.O.T side of things but recently on the taxi tests (the majority of our work is taxis) they have been failing the cv boots that have been secured with plastic fastners and making them put the metal bands on instead.

seem to remember something about condensation causing water in the bottom of the heater unit. Then goes stale and gives you the smell sure its as said by gs remove pollen filter and wipe inside with cloth and then spray it with antibactirial spray( from the chemist). Could be wrong though as its a long time since we done one

£67 is a very good price as 10 packets of fags is at least £50

meant to say center console and not center heat shield

the cable isnt a bad job to do as it sits in a tube that comes with the new cable. You have to remove the front exhaust bracket and heat shield and part of the center heat shield then its just 2 10mm brackets and a bit juggling about and its out

If your confident enough then go ahead and do it although i would recomend removing the shaft as a whole unit (2two 11 or 12mm nut and its out). Replacing both boots is good workmanship just be carefull that you dont let one of the outer races come off the inner cv joint as you cant get a replacement and have to buy a whole shaft

listen to mygaren and youll be ok

Once youve got the shaft of the car secure it in a vice or workbench remove the old cv boot twisting the metal ties of with a pair of plier now clean all the grease out of the cv joint or it will end up everywhere (and youl have new grease in the kit. Now secure the shaft and keep the cv joint level with the shaft and tap the rim of the cv joint with a plastic or rubber hammer if yove got one if not then a normal hammer .It will seem like its not going to come off but it will. Once off youl see the splines on the shaft and a circlip give them all a good clean Now put new rubber boot on and push it right down the shaft so its out the road. Now line the joint up with the splines on the shaft and push it down itl go a inch or so and stop you now have to comprsee the circlip into its grove so that the splines can go into the joint use a couple of screwdrivers for this. its better if you can get a xtra pair of hands to help you for that bit if not turn the shaft round and use your stomach or chest to apply pressure to the joint. once on fill joint with grease and pull the rubber down into place and secure it Job done sounds hard but isnt

yes the n/s one is as easy as that. done loads of them and would advise if its your first one to put a bucket under the gear box as youve chance to pull the shaft out of the box also it will probally be easier if you do take the shaft out altogether and do the job on a bench. If you havent got the tool for clamping the metal bands onto new boot then use a jubilee clip as the plastic ties dont last very long and youl end up doing the job twice

Weve been busy at work the past two weeks (thankfully). And it would appear that everyones cars must bee running ok.

check where the cap goes into to see if the plastic lip has snapped if so youl need a rocker cover

Your imobiliser is stopping the car from starting. the economy mode on the display is normal and will disapear as soon as the car fires up.. have you got any remote that locks/unlocks the door and do you have a key that will fit and take the steering look off

just a daft one but try resyncing the key 1 put key in barrel and switch ignition on 2 pus the lock button on the key fob and keep it down for 10 seconds 3 switch ignition of and wait 3 second 4 lock then unlock the doors using the key fob 5 Now try starting the car is the display saying imobiliser fault

I take it thatThe key that snapped had the buttons on for to lock/unlock the doors and the spare key youve got dosent. The spare key fits and turns the ignition on but dosnt work the imobiliser. Thats why your car has went into safe/economy mode and wont start. Your just chasing your tail looking for faults in the engine. Take your log book and some ID and go to the dealers and get a new key/fob just a daft thought when the key was snapped had they been repeatidly pressing the buttons on the key fob because if the had it might of put the remote out of sync with the imobiliser. does the fob lock and unlock the car

Forgot to say its got 12 months M O T and 2 or 3 months tax and il take £600 for it

Does the car spend most of its life doing shopping run or running round the town..take the car onto a motorway and give it a good boot get it up to 70 in 3rd and watch the crap come out the back, That should half your emmisions also make sure the engine is hot and had a good run prior to the retest. And as JD says put a additive in the tank to help it

Hi ive got a auto ecu sitting here doing nothing and your more than welcome to it if its anygood to you. will get the numbers of it tomorow if its compatable il post it to you. Also check with kfk and ianezz to see if they can be swapped and whats involved with reprogramming them

very sound advice mate. Im sure youl be able to do that as its booked into your place tomorrow ha ha.

think for that kind of info youd need to ask kfk or ianezz to see if they can source it out for you

the c5 has a built in alarm and immobiliser and is activated by the key fob when locking and unlocking the doors and i would imagine that your old car had exactley the same on it

Could be a couple of things Is it the right spare key have you tried it before also have you switched the imobiliser of with the key fob or via the door lock If still no luck then I would be checking the ignition barrell as car was running fine till the key was bent inside of it then it wouldnt start so thats where your problem is. probally a wire of the back or the ignition barrel is goosed anything could do it

c5 red 1.8 petrol only done 77k had it on road as a taxi(5 monthts) but just not economical enough for a taxi. Not a mark on the car spotless inside and out runs perfect even got a few months tax on it sell or swap

c5 wanted must be diesel anything considered needed A.s.a.p