coastline taxis

Well the lexia software bought of ebay dosnt work with vista so dont wast your money. Even put them into the local computer shop and still no good/ Old xp lappy has now been taking down to shop along with the disc and the elm interface so they can get it up and running

check your reversing lights for blown bulbs and bad earting

car comes to us quite regular with the same fault. it will just stop and no matter what you do it wont start there is no fault codes and lights on the dash leave it overnight and it will start first time and runnfor anywhere between 1 and 3 months. had it into dealers for diagnostic and nothing found

No its not a mot failure although i would tell the tester how to open the door as hell need to be in to check the seat belts. If it opens when you bang it then think about removing the panel and spraying the look with grease or wd40 before it goes altogether

well told the owner today that we really havnt got a clue and it needs to go to dealers. Anyway he was fine about it and when he came to collect it he was chatting away and casualy saidl he had just had a new taxi meter fitted on the morning of the problem occouring. Well went straight to the meter switched it off and pulled the fuse and hey presto car back to normal so checked wiring for taxi meter and there was the problem. Taxi meter has 4 wires + and - then 1 wire that connect to the speedo wire and picks the pulses up of the speed sensor so it knows what distance and speed its doing then the last wire connects to the top sign relay to switch it on and off. Phoned the meter firm up and told them what was happening anyway the car was taking back to them and it turns out that the new lad had fitted it so that the pulses from the speedo wire was getting fed back into the network wires and sending it haywire. anyway car now fine, but now cant help wondering if half the problems that people seem to have with the c5s could have something to do with incorrectley fitted aftermarket products eg stereos/satnavs/handsfree. also even after having been corrected could this do any lasting damage to the ecu or will it get over it Well im having a half day now as si just cant be arsed and im cold

the plan is to use the lead and interface of the elm we got. weather it works or not is a different matter

the plan is to use the lead and interface of the elm we got. weather it works or not is a different matter

No further forward with this one. Definatley no water getting into anything,charging system is fine and tried new battery,all wiring is intact and secure also all terminals are ok and no corrosion. key fob works fine locking/unlocking car. it just seems like the hole electric system has a mind of its own, Have just oredered ilexia diagnostic system of ebay so lets hope that sorts it out

compression test showed one of the cylinder really low so started to take the head off. Halfway through the job the fault was found the cam follower had cracked right where the roller bearing sits. 2 new followers and its running fine now

The car never broke down it was recovered because of the lights flashing and werent sure about it. the only time it wouldnt start was when i cleared the fault codes. the fault is connected to the pulsing on the dash so got to find something on the c5 that pulses and start from there

Will check for that tomorrow any other suggestions gratefully acepted

This car has never been a pick of bother in the 3 years weve looked after it untill today when it was brought in on the back of a AA wagon. It starts up and runs as if there is nothing wrong with it driving perfect loads of power and ticks over nicley. The problem is that every light on the dash is blinking on and of at a regular pulse. display goes form economy mode to anti pollution fault to hydraulic disply then says its raising and lowering the suspension then miles per gallon then just keeps going round in a loop. Windows wont work no stereo or blowers so it is in economy mode. So plugged it in and got 32 fault codes ranging from abs fault to low oil pressure . Here are a few p1101 p1108 p1110 p1112 p1169 1305 p1320 p1402 p1519 p1604 p1613 u1000 u1003 u1600 u1706 Have checked and the u codes mean that the can bus system isnt talking to each other and theres a imobiliser fault code in there. but the car drives perfect . Cleared the codes and the car fired up and ran with no light or faults for 10 mins then the reverse warning bong cane on and back came the lights on the dash and fault codes back. Have checked ecu plugs/earth leads/ign barrel and wiring also put new battery on. In my mind i cand help thinking that it has something to do with the dashboard as the lights are pulsing at regular intervals or its a ecu failure or am i going in the wrong direction

Any fault codes or not. Mind it has been cold today and no doubt quite a few cars will have had to use there heater systems to get started only to find that the system that hasnt been used for quite a while now dosnt work. If its been fine then wont wont start on a very cold day then you need to start checking your heater plugs/relays/wires etc etc. A diagnostic should show this up straight away in the meantime give it a tow and it should fire up then itl probally fire up fine for the rest of the day

Just been asked to find out where this is. Lad i work with has plugged a car in for a airbag light illuminated and got the following. Drivers side seat squib ok so what and where is a squib and dont say its in the seat (ha ha). And is it a easy change or would a replacement seat be the easier options

Sticking valve never even thought of that cheers will have a look the morro. cheers

Went to a breakdown yesterday as car wouldnt start anyway when we got there the car would start and only rough idle with a banging coming from the top end of the engine near the cam belt, It would fire up idle like a bag of sh-te then cut out. Started thinking that it could be a slipped belt so brought it back plugged it in and got the following coolant temparature malfunction engine misfire no 1 cylinder detected egr malfunction so we checked the timming and all is fine so turned engine over and it ran fine with the faults still showing so we cleared tham and all is ok. Any ideas

Hi you can get a sniffer of ebay for 30quid use it and put it back on ebay or sell it on here or to me. Your problem though sounds like you need to bleed the system as there is another bleed valve that you need to ooen its on the hose that goes into the heater matrix get engine running then open heater matrix bleed screw till its just water then go onto other bleed screw but only after the engine has done 3 cycles(fan cumming in). Weve never bothered with the last bit and it works fine

forgot to mention that i think you need to get a sniffer test done first as it could be water pump/blockage or as said b4 a thermostate issueand you could be pulling the head of 4 nothing what millage is on it best regards steve

Might be worth checking the ignition barrel while your at it

Rear axle bushes are fairly straight forward to do and nothing to worry about what milage is on the car. and is it the dealer telling you all this or just a local garage

Hi Before you take the head off make sure you can get the injectors out as the one nearest the g/box often siezes in. We have found it easier to remove siezed ones with the engine in place, If the end one is siezed in then turn it a bit to the left and right (using the bottom of the injector) and keep squirting wd 40 down in whilst turning sometimes its took 4 to 5 hours to work it loose. Head gasket has notches on it to tell you what thickness youl need also head bolts need tohave lenght measured to see that they havent stretched to far. also when you have the head of give the inlet manifold a good clean inside so that the engine gets a good smooth airflow also clean out the egr valve and al pipes. in the past we have used discount stores for parts but have found that the dealers are better yes you pay a little bit more but if you asked youl get a print out on the correct tighten procedure and lenght for the bolts also they will be the right parts and they will give you any advice that you need.

its very quiete on here at present. Just goes to show that c5 arnt all that bad as they all appear to be running well aas no ones has any faults to list. Or could it be the credit crunch i know we are really quiete at work both taxis and repairs. And everyone i talk to seems to be in the same boat oh well happy easter

is it a whine or does it sound like compressed air with a slight whistle

Hi does it do it when hot aswell as cold could we be looking at a cold start issue. if you havent got the fob key you will be dependend on the door lock to engage/disengage the imobiliser and with the door locks not bieng that reliable it could be that it sometimes opens the door but dosent take the imobiliser of. so maybe try removing the door panel and cleaning everything with brake/contact cleaner or if you can dont lock the car for a few days to see if it goes away. not saying it is that but its a start ps have you contacted the previous owner to see if they have the key or no what the fault is as thats why it might of been in the auctions