coastline taxis

if you go ahead with the plan how much do you want for your old auto box

Hi gear lever knob just pulls of it feels realy solid but its just held on with a rubber cup that forms a vacum so just pull as hard as you can

scrap yards

check the cables and gearlever box under gear lever check for frying/siezing of cables. then go daft with wd 40 on the cables using the straw to get inside the cables. then plenty of white grase in the lever box. If beyond repair then new lever and cable assembly only a £100 and very easy to install

GOT ONE JUST THE SAME AND WAS THINKING OF DOING THAT BUT CHANGED OUR MINDS AS THE DONOR CAR WAS IN BETTER CONDION THAN THE ONE WE WERE GOING TO FIX. THE BOXES ARE EASY TO GET OUT BUT IF I WERE YOU ID TAKE ENGINE AND BOX OUT AS IT WILL GIVE EASIER ACSESS FOR THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER AND THE PEDAL BOX ALSO THE ELECTRICS WONT BE A ISSUE AS THE AUTO BOX HAS ITS OWN ECU. THE ONLY PART OF THE JOB THAT WE WERNT LOOKING FORWARD TO WAS THE PEDAL BOX AND INSTALING THE CLUTCH HYDRAULICS THE REST IS STRAIGHT FORWARD. AND YES THE PUG 406 BOX WILL FIT ALTHOUGH SOMETIMES YOU MAY HAVE TO SWAP THE SELECTORS OVER AS THE CIT CABLES ARE BIGGER THAN THE PUGS BALLS ON THE SELECTOR. AND YES I NO IM GOT THE CAPS LOCK ON BUT ME SON WHO KNOWS EVERYTHING AT 14 ISNT HERE TO TURN IT OF HA HA

just checked our data and it definatley states 3.5 and 5 bar. if you tell me how to then il copy and paste it on to the site or if you email me il send you a copy and you can see for yourself. We are at present pumping 5 bar through the rail and the engine is running steve

There you go we were both wrong

as far as im aware its more or less a sealed unit. if the rest of it is workng fine then i realy would just live with it

im affraid not the pressures for you parusale are 1.8i 16v= sagem s2000 injection system is 3.5 bar 2.0i 16v= mmarelli 48p2 injection system is 3.5 bar 2.0i 16v hpi = siemens sirius 81 injection system is 5 bar (this is the one we doing) 3.0i 16v = bosch me 746 injection system is 3.5 bar

what type of auto box is it and whats the fault on it. To swap over youl ned inner cv joints/flywheel/clutch/gear lever and cables/pedal box and pedal/master and slave cylinders/brake resorvoir and starter motor.

Im willing to try anything that anyone suggests as the pumps are only 40 quid to buy so its a hell of a saving. The pump does work and the engine runs fine at also sits nicely where the original pump goes and brings a 500 quid fix down to under a 100. Will order the bits today and get back to you many thanks steve

Well the old fellow turned up today with his pump its of a boat its 12v and goes up to 5 bar. after blanking the cam of we got the pump sited for him connected it up and it works no bother at all.Now dont be jumping for joy as we had a few issues with him and the job is now at a stop after we refused to work on it over the following issues wich both sides have went away to consider for round 2 tomorrow 1 he wants us to wire it via a fused switch in the car straight from the battery. we refused on the ground that if there was a accident and fuel rail was damaged then the pump would continue to pump petrol out 2 he wants us to pick the power up from the wiring that goes to the low pressure pump in the tank again i refused as i have no idea wht effect this would have on the ecu or how it would work in the event of a accident The car dosnt have a inertia cut off either. Now while this bloke has sort of solved the problem and i belive the pump will work and with a bit of fine tunning it will be safe.But at the moment id be leaving myself wide open to a claim.Spoke to citroen dealer and understandably he wanted absolutley no part in it. So any one got any ideas on the wiring side of it many thanks steve

lift up the back seat youl see a black plastic circle removve this and youve see the tank and the unit

Thats right it stores all the little particles of soot in its filter then 9 out of 10 times when you have a problem with it the best way to fix it is to blast it down the road in 3rd at 70mph so it can clear the filter out. So instead of putting a bit out every day its saved up a let out in one go. cant see the point of it. I would of thought that car owners who realy want to do there bit for the enviroment should get electric cars

how much are you wanting for it

We do 2 or 3 a week and just remove the plastic covers as stated in davidad posting. Just dont put cheap bulbs in as they just dont last

Its a fairly straight forward job to do nothing tricky. remove the cylinder from the servo with the brake pipes still attached then tirn cylinder so that the brake pipes are pointing up then remove them that way youl probaly get away without having to bleed them

Volvo lovley safe car for you and your family to drive round. Loads of creature comfort only problem being its just one thirsty car. The mpg is shite

Me neither but ive told a few they need a pump. In my opinion you just cand beat the 2.0 hdi

Hi when you put your foot on the footbrake you should her a thump from the gear selector if not then its a fuse/footswitch/lose wire or a faulty solenoid. A diagnostic will tell you straight away

Hi Your first mistake was getting the 2.2 diesel as its realy a finacial time bomb with the particle filter. the second mistake has been that youve allowed all the faults to build up intead of getting them sorted straight away. Some of the prices youve quoted are very hi 1 oil leak = probally comming from the turbo/rocker cover/sump or oil seal. Not realy expensive fixes 2 coolant leak = again probally a daft leak as if it was something major i.e head gasket youd no about it 3 new pads and disc= just done one for a customer 4x discs at 22 quid each (local discount store) and 2x pads at 15 quid a set total bill 180 4 big service= dealers 5 rear exhaust= 56 quid at local discount store including new clamp 20 for fitting 6 trip computer= you fix 7 central locking= remove drivers door panel squirt of brake cleaner then wd 20 quid (done loads) 8 cuts out = diagnostic at dealers= probally get it done a bit cheaper if there doing your big service Now im obviosley in love with these citroen as they are the most reliable and cheapest both in purchase and parts that ive used for taxis in 22 years. You may think citroen are bad well heres a few. vectra 2.2 diesel= diesel pump every 100.000 = 2800 quid dealer fix only also all vectras over 100.000 keep throwing up ghost fault codes. mondeo 2.0 diesel duratorq= flywheels every 6 monthe at 750 quid a pop and i have seen grown men cry with these also wishbones every 2 months vw passats love water pumps the list is endless I would shop around for better prices for repairs if i were you not forgeting the main dealer as they will give you discount on a list like that also for parts aswell. or have a go yourself as it not as hard as people make it out to be cheers steve

Hi Your driving what is basicly a big brick with no areo dynamics at all. ive got a swb semi hi top and does the same also right down on any kind of hill wont go up in 5th even if im doing 70 when i hit the bank still got to change down. have checked everything even opend the pump up to give it more oooomph and it made no difference. we just live with it now as apart from that slight problem the van runs great

Its the fluid that controls the hydraulics aswell as the power steering lds fluid DONT put ordinary power steering fluid in

Are they the same as the c5 and would just a bottom end do