iannez

you sure its not just a flat battery and the vans in eco mode. turn the headlights on and see if the dash lights go dim.

leave the engine in as theres loads of space. put a jack under the sump with a bit of wood to protect it. remove the gear box mount and lower the jack so the engine hangs down (gearbox side) and you will get it in and out no probs. make sure you remove the 2 earths from the top of the box before trying to remove it.

is your spare wheel cage loose.

diagram for what. airbag, engine ecu, electric windows. whats the fault with the car.

it's bsi mate and stands for built in system interface. it recives signals from horn, indicators, wiper switches etc, translates them and then sends a feed to whichever component you activated. faults can be anything. airbags, hanbrake light, milage incorrect. could go on forever.

hdi???

yes kfk. seen it today. something to do with some of them not being filled up with brake fluid.

pulled a 51 reg c5 taxi with 180k on clock into workshop on wednesday with costomer complaning there was a knocking noise and jumping out of third gear. checkd the car and found o/s/f strut was shot, n/s drop link had play and after stripping box found 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th syncros, reverse gear were all worn and recomended bearing kit, priced bits and over all costs (parts and labour) came to £1100. costomer said he was more than happy to pay as the car had not cost him a penny since the day he bought it. not bad for a c5 with 180k.

its made up of 4 letters. ezrc = silver for example. it should be at the bottom of the sticker. if its met green its most probs rainforest but not sure of the code.

first one arrived yesterday. looks loads better in the flesh.

there is not 2 wires. its one wire with a breaker in it (the switch). ignition live travels down wire to the switch. when the switch is pressed (de-pressed in this case) the connections make contact allowing the ignition live to continue down the same wire to the brake lights. if the high level brake light is working it can not be the switch thats at fault.

today we had a picasso in for mot but had to harvest it out as we were over booked. 04 hdi with 42k. came back with v30 faliure sheet saying it failed on emmisions so put it on our smoke tester and it fast passed (only needed to rev it once because it was so clean). bad enough doing it to a member of public but think its going a bit far to do it to a main dealer that they know fine well has testing equipment. any way we help them out with quite a few airbag faults so the next job they book in there getting charged time on. lazy arse tester that cant be botherd to give the car a quick run up the road.

the only ones i have used that work apart from dealers (proxia + lexia) are the snap on and mac ones but these are around £1500 and you have to have the right keys at extra cost and the can bus lead.

agree. i just cut them out and solder them together but just thought it would be easier for him to try and tighten the plug.

no need to disconnect handbrake. the rear pistons need to be turned anti clockwise as you push them back. the hand brake works through the calliper, the piston screws out and cant return so every time you press the foot brake and as the pads wear it keeps the handbrake adjusted up. try and get a big screwdriver in and push and turn at the same time as they normaly go back quite easy. if this does not work you will need a wind back tool. i only use torque settings on cylinder heads and common sense on eveything else.

dubs40 contains silicone (non conductor) so might make matters worse. best way without removing the plug is, if you disconnect the plugs you will notice on the female plug 2 realy small flaps. lift the flaps with a pick or a pin and you will see a sprung bit of metal underneath that raises and keeps pressure on the male plug terminals when its inserted. just bend these down further so they apply more pressure to the terminals. make sure you have the plug disconnected or you will not be able to bend them. the plug is a bit awkward to disconnect so be careful as they break easy.

idle controll regulator. its the black battery shaped drum on the back of your throttle body.

nice and easy. push the piston right back, remove 13mm nut (the lower one) and the calliper hinges up. if youve done pads before these will be a piece of cake.

other way round. if the rear callipers were bosh they replaced with trw ones and as someone has already said they have now stoped doing them under warrenty. c2's had the same fault but just replaced the calliper bracket with a stronger one. cant do this with c4's as the bracket is part of the calliper.

slide the front seats back and forward and see if it goes off. xsara's and saxo's used to suffer a lot from this fault and had a picasso with the same fault last week and that turned out to be the plug under the passanger seat.

if the car had done a burn cycle you would know because it raises the revs to about 4000rpm for 3 to 4 minutes. think you would notice this. the part under the car that you have circled is an additional heater. it works just like a oil burner using diesel straight from the tank. if you look close you can see a small exhaust. if the fire started in this area i would dare bet this was the culprit.

the recall is there to catch the spring if it snaps to stop it going through the tyre. all dealers will put prior approval down to citroen uk. i have never known them to refuse.

just use the dipstick. the oil level sensors are crap and never read right. you will probably have the same problem after a few thousand miles even if tou have a new one fitted. we've had qute a few ppl in due to over filling because they take notice of the guage rather than the dipstick.

they only use heater plugs if its -5 or less.

as paul said one winds back clockwise, the other anti-clockwise so you need a tool with a reverse thread to push back the anti-clockwise side.