iannez

go for a second hand one then mate and fit it yourself. should take you no more than 10 min. 2x torx 20 screws under the cowl and it drops down and the stalk just slides into the slot. they will need to configure the engine ecu as well as the bsi so make sure they know what there doing before spending any money. did you check for a clutch switch. the main thing that goes wrong on the config is its listed as cruise control in one ecu and vvc in the other. both of these need to be activated for it to work. the bsi also needs to be left to go to sleep before the config will take effect so its no good test driving it straight after config as it wont work.

i think your talking about the swirl chamber actuator. adjusts the way the fuel and air is drawn in to the engine.

the newer ones have a speed limiter control so you will need the older style. one from an exclusive Picasso should fit no probs but i'mm sure the stalk's are only around £30 new. you can fit a clutch switch if theres not one there but this will also need to be configured to the bsi.

if the noise is from the top end it sounds like your loosing oil pressure and starving the top end from oil causing the hydraulic tappets to run dry. look through the oil filler with a torch to see how much oil is being flung around. could be the oil pump or just a blockage so try a decent engine flush and some fresh oil before getting to involved.

a remap would take you to around 120bhp. much easier option if you want a bit extra power. the engine codes john posted are from the 2.0 hdi engines. yours will be a 1.6 hdi and this will probably be the reason why the letter r is missing from your vin.

you have a comms so you will just need to buy the stalk for the other side and then have it configured. just make sure you have a clutch switch before you start spending any money. there should be a grey 2 way multi plug on the pedal box just next to the clutch pedal going to the switch.

you should be able to fit the citroen stalk to a hdi berlingo as long as it has a comms unit. you would need to have the bsi and engine ecu configured. where are your radio controls.

the 2.2 16v hdi (dw12) should rev to around 5200rpm. these have 130bhp and a massive 314nm of torque so if it feels sluggish in any way you have a problem. turbo electro valves and the rods coming off the dozer valves are the 2 main causes of power loss on these engines.

you need to replace the airbag ecu and have it configured to the car. no where near 3k. or you could find one at a breakers as long as no airbags have been activated and then have it programmed to suit your car. if you can get one from a car with the same spec as yours it would be a straight swap (no config needed).

glow plugs on a hdi will only be used if the outside temp is lower than -5. you need it on a tool that reads live data to see what pressure you have at the fuel rail and what the engine speed is when cranking from cold. if the ecu is not seeing enough pressure or high enough rpm it will stop the car from starting. had a nightmare with one of these a few year ago. finally traced it to a tired starter motor. sounded fine when cranking but engine speed was just below the set value to start the car.

had one with this problem last week. removed the gearbox and found 2 of the 3 spring fixings on the pressure plate had broken causing the clutch to stay slightly engaged when pressed.

clutch pedal switch is the usual culprit.

your right mate. i checked on the testers guide and it said exactly that. as long as the rear doors are secure there is no other reason for rejection. when i was training to be a tester we coverd this and the rear doors had to open from the outside. vosa must have changed this since then. anyway, take no notice of my last post as its wrong. sorry all.

the fuse will burn out long before the wiring unless the wrong amp fuse is used. the wire will take at least 4x as many amps as the fuse in its circuit before it burns out. if a component used 14 guage wire the wire will take upto 20amps so no more than a 5amp fuse should be used making it impossibe for the wiring to burn out. so as long as the right fuse is used no matter what is plugged into the socket the worst that will happen is a fuse will blow.

that's strange. i will need to check to be sure but i don't think its right. never known there to be 1 p-code for 2 faults. i always use this site and have never had any probs. http://www.scangauge2.co.uk/DTC/PSA.html

it will be a iat fault. its a psa code so will be the same on all there cars. did they check the live data when it was connected to the diag tool.

i think you are forgetting that once the tool is paid for the garage still has peoples wages and other overheads like rates etc to pay. its all well and good looking in as a consumer and expecting things for free but this is the real world people and a buisness is there to make money. i am sure you all know what happens to a buisness when it starts running at a loss. 3 garages in our area have closed down in the last few months due to lack of work. you all know how hard things are at the minute and you still expect a company to work for free. most of you will have jobs so do the companys you work for do anything for free. i doubt it. its sad but this is the way of the world of today and the reason its in this state. everyone expects something for nothing and they are always looking for something to complain about. but theres no complaints when there in the pub paying £2.50 a pint, over £5.00 for a packet of cigs or over £10.00 for a takeaway. its sad but its true.

the only way you will get it to work is with one of these. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PEUGEOT-PLANET-CITRO...A1%7C240%3A1318

techbods right with the first one. its a red 10 amp mini fuse. it will have f14 stamped under it. dont forget it's in the engine bay.

i'mm sorry mate but paying £7000 for diag tools and then doing free diag checks does not make good buisness sense. you would have people from non franchise garages posing as joe public queuing up with problem cars for starters. there is a difference between running and ruining a buisness.

techbod. why are you so quick to condemn main dealers. i work for a main dealer (the one mentioned by coastline taxi's actually) and no one in our garage fits parts without component testing. we try to be more than fair. we even discount the price of the diag check from the bill if we repair the car. i know there are some bad dealers out there that charge the earth for a poor service but dont tar us all with the same brush mate.

remove the door card and check the membrane to make sure its sealed all the way round the bottom. the sealer comes away at the bottom so when water runs down the inside of the door it runs straight into the footwell. also make sure the rubber washers are fitted to the lower door card clips.

if its the front all and its just the pads you will need a 13mm spanner and a piston wind back tool. if its the rears you need 2x 8mm spanners and a screwdriver to push back the pistons. torx bit is only needed if changing front discs. its a t55 if you need to do this.

it will fail. rear doors have to open from outside only. front doors have to open from both inside and outside. the front seats dont fold forward in a 4 door car so there is no access to the raer seats from the front door.

check the fuse first. its f14 in the engine bay fusebox