techbod

a time when it wasn't used, http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=ne6FBXa8R6I

go with the dealer as thats cheap ;) ish

no they shouldn't because its Citroen PLC and if they do then search for the cheapest price and they have to comply with it or beat it

I agree with kfk here because the problem wasn't solved and fitting a new intake manifold was just a cash cow so it might happen again ( they get rich through this sort of practice ) and we don't need it, when they do a job like this it would be nice of them to tell you what caused the problem!

kfk is always right lol but considering the prices you quoted it would be cheaper to have a stainless system made and de-cat it and its garanteed for life ( dont ask how long is life ) ill let you know ;)

it has to be programed no other way round it

any advice is good advice because it gives Pam something to think about and use in here favour so its positive advice ;) its so easy to demoralise someone with wet blanket replies even though its they are required and good advice ;)

EOBD = European on board diagnostics, OBD = on-board diagnostics and that's all basically it was a law implemented by Canada on emissions and the diagnostic connector was required to test the system. as for getting one diagnostic tool to work with all the on board computers ( ECUs ) you would need several tools unless you go laptop then its software driven via a multiplex interface like lexia3, its all down to protocol's like Engine/AC/ABS/CAN which are all different, http://www.obdii.com/connector.html CAN is implemented in only parts of the system before 2004 because it was being tested by the manufacturer so its a case of what components were linked to it so the diagnostic tool having CAN will help even those cars before 2004 after that date it's absolutely required

a crank sensor will always give a failed reading if the engine isn't running that's called a static diagnostic test via a diagnostic tool and that's normal because it only gives a signal when the engine is running so any fault with that would be intermittent unless it was loose and in both cases it would produce poor engine responce, if it were shot then the car wouldn't even start no spark/fuel pressure because it switches them on when ignition is switched on which is called a dynamic test via diagnostic tool and that's that one covered now the throttle body on the C5 is motorised and not cable driven and if it were gunked up with carbon and oil deposits the butterfly valve would hesitate or stick and cause engine to idle poorly and impair throttle responce, it gets interesting when you know how they work ;)

check these symbols out at the very bottom of the link ans see if the overheating lamp is the cat over heating and not the coolant, http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...en-GBGB285GB285

obviously the belt and its components would need checking to prove otherwise and Gates who supply the belt and components have the ability to do that as do Citroen but I know what your saying about guarantees and recommendations which is a legal grey area, still though I would let Citroen do it because i'm sure they would like to prove blame to some one to help the owner out financially since she is going there to get the work done ( anything is worth a try ) you never know your luck ;)

just answered a similar question, so it has over heat light and temp gauge ( the fans cut in but do you get heat into the car? ) if not then air in the system,if yes then its probably a wire short issue and will require a diagnostic by an electrician or simply check all the wires are on tight and not fouled with the disastrous green fur caused by bad earth which would short it out, just a guess though

all the vacuum lines and EGR pipe have to be fitted ( if the EGR valve is still in the system and the pipe has been blanked you will have response problems ) it cant see the valve so will throw it into limp mode

you cant reset an over heat light but you might have a bad connection or the coolant temp sensor is shot which causes the temp gauge to read over heat because its shorted so a new temp sensor should sort it ( hopefully ) I hate those things with only a light and no gauge edit# update is it the cat that's overheating and not the coolant check this link out and look at the symbols of the bottom of the post. http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...en-GBGB285GB285

your car is 5 years old with 57k on it and they say the belt has a life of 75k or 10 years and under severe conditions 60k and it failed before that? sounds to me like you have a case with the timing belt manufacturer and the dealer because they sell the car with this guarantee ( trading standards is a good idea ) they have broke their contract because it didn't last as long as they stated ;)

cam belt timing belt are the same thing http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...l%3Den%26sa%3DG

check the state of the spark plugs/leads and coil packs a catalyst doesn't cause a misfire unless its blocked and you would know if it was so the cat is doing its job because a misfire would cause uneven fuel/air mix and the o2 sensor would give a fault

you need to have it scanned for codes but it doesn't sound like its a real problem because it goes off, no point guessing what it is

in most cases a code is just a guide and the sensor is doing its job ( does your code reader store soft codes? ) these are not important codes and only put the engine warning light on when it happens 3 times, a fault code reader is a tool you need since OBD 1/II/EOBD/CAN came in so not like the old days when you could track a fault by simple tests today you need much more like an oscilloscope/multi meter/ data and that's all supplied through a laptop and with good software and only thing that isn't supplied is knowledge of how things work, main thing to remember is when a fault code comes up you have to think what else could cause it and not just the sensor and I call it the domino effect

stranger as it unfolds so the timing belt pulley woodruff key part is ok and only the woodruff key alternator side is shot? if yes then jb weld might work, you could also place a large washer before the crank bolt then drill and tap it so you could fit a locking bolt and bend one side of the washer up the side of the bolt to prevent it spinning loose, just a thought and would eliminate the need to weld

this is an interesting one because its does CAN bus so should work on the newer cars even though CAN wasn't made law till 2004 and completely takes over in 2008, early C5s have CAN integrated into the system though your not supposed to know that cough and what makes this system harder to get into is the fact its multiplex so keep an eye open for old OMITEC stuff on eBay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAUNCH-CREADER-4-OBD...id=p3286.c0.m14 this next one is much cheaper and should still work with the 2000 to 03 cars but doesn't have CAN protocol http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAUNCH-CREADER-4-OBD...id=p3286.c0.m14 only problem is they don't communicate fully with all the cars ECUs so mainly engine and tranny

I have E.L.I.T which is dedicated to Citroen but doubt it would work on the C5 2001, the ones listed for the newer cars are proxia and lexia3 and too expensive for DIY but one consolation is the newer cars are more open to hand held diagnostic tools due to newer laws making if user friendly and not dealer secretive ( there is lots of data on the Internet on how OBDI/II/EOBD/CAN are used ) im sure other who have the later cars will add what diagnostic tools they use

ahh so that's why you need to remove the pulley, I doubt the crankshaft has broken and more like what you said ( the woodruff key has disintegrated and screwed the pulley up ) so get a woodruff key and pulley from a breakers yard, jb weld lol no chance that will hold it however I have seen them mig welded in place as long as you don't put too much heat into it because it will melt the timing belt so pulse welding is best ( a little at a time and let it cool to prevent overheating) a quick edit# to do this you have to lock the flywheel at TDC then torque up the center bolt locking the pulley on then weld the bolt to the pulley that's if you cant replace the woodruff key and pulley of course

the vent will be on top of the tranny and should be approx 10mm, diagnostics is a mine field there are so many but the best is used from a laptop or PC to get to all the diagnostics engine/tranny/ABS/SRS/body computer http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/psa_diagnostics http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q...earch&meta= other types of plug and play hand held can only do the engine and tranny and can be had cheaply on eBay, in new to the C5 system but i'm sure the throttle body doesn't have a cable to adjust as is controlled through the ECU ( fly by wire ) so you would need diagnostics to set/check it ( it might be worth cleaning the throttle body out ) the butterfly valve might be oiled up and sticking.

well meet many other on here with the same problem but still no resolve ( its down to the tranny going into limp mode ) and very dangerous and I'm surprised it isn't on a recall list