techbod

lets try to put it another way ( what happens when you join the poles on the battery ) ill call it a bang/short the battery is part of all the electrics, so if you had a short or bad ignition switch ( that the black box on the rear of the ignition switch ) http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...=/images%3Fq%3D ignition%2 switch%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den ill leave it to your imagination to guess what happens http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...v%3D2%26hl%3Den as you say it only happens when you put the ignition key in so I can only guide you from what you tell me

im a lost soul this music is like yesterday to me :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYqYYnxhtgo...ed&resnum=2

read between the lines and expand your mind, the issue only happens when you insert the ignition key

only sex can beat that :)

your second pic shows nothing so perhaps you could add yellow pointers to the area your on about

the clamp on the anti roll bar breaks and the fitting between that ( plastic ball joint fitting ) locates the height corrector to set the height if the clamp on the anti roll bar breaks you can only have two settings and that the lowest and highest and no in between which means the stabilizer is not working and that's the plastic link ( in most cases its the clamp round the anti roll bar that's broken

in most cases the door card doesn't need to come off as the bolts are behind the plastic on the inside of the mirror inside the cab, lots to look at there http://images.google.co.uk/images?gbv=2&am...+mirror+removal

how did you manage to get a V plate on a 2001 car, when you have a real problem then ask :) what yu smokin

BUT you still have to reset the ECU otherwise it will throw a fault code because of the FAP system and its a dealer job unless you know some one with the diagnostics, the FAP is linked to the emissions and its a filter in the catalyst which has to be set approx 56k and they clean the filter with diagnostic tools ( basically a rip off ) because they tend to say the catalyst is screwed and the cost is £600 ish but im sure its been covered and that's why I wont buy one ( the cost of today's technology is painful ) so called GREEN TAX

height corrector/ stabilizer link arm, your second picture is a disaster but the 1st isn't, the height on the rear end is too high. the books says how but difficult to understand so here is how it works, the stabilizer arm is linked to the anti roll bar and it can be adjusted ( on the anti roll bar ) it has one clamping bolt so you can rotate it but by minimal degrees for results ( one millimeter and you will be surprised at the height correction ) so don't go mad like your lowering the car and keep to the correct settings ie: front equals the rear in height, -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- in your case the link arm has broken cough I should have been more clear :) but the info above is valuable and the part is about £20 ish from the dealers

the picture to you left is called an avatar and all can be accessed in the ( My Controls )

its happening with both fobs when they are put into the ignition? that rules out the fobs, it only happens when you insert the key and that's chipped which is the immobilizer so the problem has to be related to the ignition switch which is causing the fobs to short and act funny, just a guess :)

not 100% sure with the later Citroen but it might be a button on the end of the wiper stalk, thats where mine is

seen it before and it came down to poor connections on the rear of the dash and they needed cleaning with dielectric spray from Maplin ( the stuff you clean PCBs on computers ) its happening to many of the newer cars due to the wiring thickness which was reduced to save weight, the older cars used much heavier wire which could carry more amps so the thing stuff overloads the connectors and they fur up loosing continuity ( sound daft but ask anyone who owns the newer Mercedes as its a major issue with them, other things t check is the earthing wire connections to see if they are furring up with the usual green powder stuff you see on the battery and cleaning the dimmer switch contacts

so you set the timing up as the book says (engine and pump ) and connected the fuel shut off electrical connector on the pump, get any of them out of sync and its a no start

1/. yes 2/. every thing has problems :blink: 3/. yes for a second only 4/. sort of yes but switching, pump doesn't run all the time but it always has power with ignition on, things to check are inertia fuel pressure switch ( if you have a spike in the electrics it shuts the fuel system off and you need to find the switch to reset it ) others are mobilizer/fuses/ crank-cam sensors/ coil packs/ spark at the plugs and lastly the coolant temp sensor ( this has been a topic on many sites im on and due to poor quality and it will kill the engine from starting

quite simply no water should be getting in that part because the cab is supposed to be sealed from water leaks so I would be looking for accident damage or botched repair

sounds more like an immobilizer or ignition problem to me or simply the ignition black box on the rear is shot ( ignition switch its called ) and Audi are famous for it lol its cheap plastic and it failes

I doubt the fans will be part of the radiator but you need to remove the front grill to get at them and no need to remove the radiator

that's true with most cars today because the only make the one wiring loom to fit them all so you have plenty there that go nowhere or can be used for adding the missing bits

its a sad state of affairs when even the dealer cant sort it what they need is a qualified proper tech in there that does everything and not just the basics

the fault code might have helped resolve the problem, without it we can only guess but here are a few problems with the C series, http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?cont...nd_tips#citroen

http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?cont...esel_technology Citroen know about it and BBA seems to know more :blink:

its a recall issue and software update, what happens is fuel pressure is lost at a crucial time and the engine dies but will fire up straight away and also injectors leak air and that's a recall as well