paul.h

If you have the air conditioning on Auto that will vary the fan speed. Put it on manual and see what happens.

I would do some of the checks mentioned above, the battery voltage using a meter, any wiring damage (particularly in the sleeve between the tailgate and body) or earthing problems. If you are only doing short trips then the battery may not be recovering enough between all the starts. Have you got any aftermarket additions to the electrics such as a phone or sat nav or a tow bar ? If the problem is just caused by the short trips, then maybe you need to get a trickle charge for the battery and leave it on charge when the car is not being used. It may be possible to leave some of them on charge without having to disconnect the battery but you would need to check this. If it is due to a voltage leakage then you could check for this by disconnecting the battery and then putting an ammeter between the battery and positive cable and see what reading you get, should only be a few mille amps with nothing switched on and the bsi shut down. Before starting the car though it will need to be reconnected normally since a meter will not take the starting current. If more than this, you will need to start checking across fuses to see where the current is being used.

Fan possibilities could include the motor needing replacing/repairing, the motor speed control resistor being on its way out, a wiring problem or connector problem. I have not been able to find any details of your car, what year, engine size, petrol , diesel, trim level ? The easiest thing is to edit your profile and put the info as your signature and then you do not need to mention it every topic.

Welcome to the forum. You should have a validating email to respond to, it could be in a spam folder if not already found.

Welcome to the forum. On the C5 tecnical section there is a pinned topic of things to look for on your car with leaking steering racks being one that might be prevented by putting grease on the column shaft. There have been a couple of topics on the V6 not running smoothly so if you do find one it is something to check since it may not be curable.

Have you run the engine with the belt off to see if the noise goes ? Turning the steering will put more load on the belt from the power steering pump. When I replaced the aux belt on our C5 I was going to also replace the tensioner until I found it was expensive but it had only done about 30k miles and it seems ok. Rather than a new one, you could try a used one from a breakers yard. The Citroen part number might be 5751A2 for cars from RPO 9156 (production date 3/12/2001). If you search on this you can probably find it a lot cheaper if you need one, as an example http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tensioner-Pulley-V-Ribbed-Belt-Fits-CITROEN-Xsara-PEUGEOT-206-1-1-1-6L-1996/141763397417?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D46150%26meid%3D581bc31504ae4176b150c145134549cc%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D132026996504&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 Have you checked the power steering oil level, just in case it is a problem with the pump, was there any play in the belt pulleys which might be letting the belt be misaligned ? Useful info http://www.daycoproducts.com/diagnosing-misalignment-and-belt-noise

I hope you do not have any more bother with the car and good luck with Citroen UK. The front towing eye is Citroen part 7212SQ, a dealer will sell you one or you can get one through ebay for about £15, as an example https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Genuine-Tow-Hook-Towing-Eye-Ring-Bracket-CITROEN-C4-Picasso-Ds3-C-elysee-7212SQ/721474567

Welcome to the forum. I have not had an egs gearbox so have no experience of one but possibly it may need calibrating http://c4owners.org/plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?160651.0 Could also be an engine or gearbox mounting http://www.citroenpicasso.org.uk/picasso/index.php/topic/23268-clunking-sound-changing-gear/

Welcome to the forum. Never having used handsfree I am unable to help but maybe it is a new government initiative to stop people using phones whilst driving, whether holding the phone or handsfree. Have you tried turning the phone off and back on, sometimes helps phone problems ?

Welcome to the forum. Yes, there are seals between the 2 halves. Before removing the bolts holding the calipers to the suspension arm and after removing the brake pads, the pad cover retaining bolt should be put back and done up so the 2 halves stay together. The seals are Citroen part number 444205 and you will probably need to get them from a Citroen dealer. On the C5 Problems and Fixes section there is a pinned topic on cleaning the rear brakes which might be of use http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/6881-removal-of-rear-brake-calipers-pad-replacement-c5-to-2008/ There are also topics covering the front brakes.

Welcome to the forum. You should have an email for you to validate and become a member. It could be in a spam folder. You must have the car year wrong since the model of C5 in your picture ceased production in 2004.

To clear the economy mode the engine will need to run. Having the doors open, other things using the battery since the engine last ran will have put it in economy mode. How many miles has the car done ? Check the battery to starter wiring and earths as already suggested but if before you were just getting a click as you turned the key, it suggests the starter solenoid was moving but possibly the solenoid internal contact is worn/dirty or the starter brushes are worn out if the battery is ok.

Welcome to the forum. Chirping belt noises could be an incorrect belt tension, possibly the auxiliary belt but also the timing belt which will be behind some covers. So as well as a worn belt or pulley it could be a belt tensioner fault. How many miles has the car done and how old is it and which engine does it have ? When was the timing belt last replaced ?

The adjuster is listed in the parts diagrams as part no. 6224S7 but the other parts of the light do not seem available. As an example from an ebay search http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-C5-08-ACTIONNEUR-MOTEUR-REGLAGE-DE-PHARE-93161736-8200402521-6224S7-/171691471564

To help, I have edited your profile and put as your signature details of your car that I have been able to find from your other topics. It would help if you could edit this and also add the engine size/type and whether a tourer or saloon. This way it saves you having to mention it when starting a new topic or the rest of us having to guess. If the grease has been lost from the bearing there are probably traces of it on the bodywork. Without grease in the bearing it would wear out quickly. I have replaced worn gearbox and wheel bearings and they make a whining noise which increases with speed so maybe you might detect the noise. These days car makers spend as little as possible so a heat shield is unlikely to be used if not needed and not all the different engines have then on the parts diagrams - so maybe your car does need one. I do not know about the bush but if missing it might let the bearing move out of place and maybe the driveshaft. Different engines seem to have different bushes or seals on the parts diagrams so maybe they do not all have one.

A reply is better late than never so we know how a problem was sorted.

If you do an ebay search on Citroen dispatch key fob it comes back with lots of sellers. Just need to get one the same as yours and then you fit the insides from your fob including the key blade, into the new fob. I have done this a few times and found the ebay cases are better quality than the Citroen ones, despite only being a few pounds. If the immobiliser chip is separate to the printed circuit, make sure that is also moved in to the new case. The key blade is removed from the old case by part opening the blade and then using a pin/small screw and pliers to push out the retaining pin. Use the pliers to squeaze the pin back in again. If you do not remove the battery from the circuit when swapping it over, you will not need to re-initialise the fob but if you do this is in the handbook somewhere under fob battery replacement and will be something like put the key in the ignition and turn so the dash lights up and immediatley hold down the fob lock button until the locks work. If the locks do not work, remove the key from the ignition and see if they work but if not remove the fob battery for a bit and then try again. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313.TR3.TRC2.A0.H0.Xcitroen+dispatch+key+fob.TRS0&_nkw=citroen+dispatch+key+fob&_sacat=53908 For the spare wheel carrier, if you do not use it then why not just remove it so the problem will not happen again. Is it possible to bend the carrier back to shape - if not then a Citroen dealer will sell you a new one or you could try for a scrap yard one. This one on ebay includes the wheel so is a bit dear at £69.99 but maybe they will let you just have the carrier http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-DISPATCH-HDI-90-VAN-2007-2015-SPARE-WHEEL-CARRIER-/192321925661?hash=item2cc747b21d:g:XtEAAOSwqU5Z0M9J Another one without a wheel for £53.99 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-DISPATCH-SKUDO-EXPERT-SPARE-WHEEL-CARRIER-CAGE-HOLDER-D17-Y1228-/262659387575?hash=item3d27b830b7:g:e4UAAOSwNRdX9QVQ You could do though with checking the Citroen part number against your van RPO number (should be on a tyre pressure sticker and possibly the service stamp book) since there were a couple of changes - to RPO 11269 the carrier Citroen part number is 7603R9 plus it needs a support screw 7615F2 - from RPO 11270 to 12403 Citroen part number 7603R9 - using a RPO calculator this gives vans from 17/9/2007 to 24/10/2010 so should apply to your van - from RPO 12404 part number 1440169980 Once you have the correct part number you can then search using that number.

Welcome to the forum. Unless there is something obviously wrong around the engine, the only way to find out the fault is to use a code reader to read the fault code which will indicate what could be wrong. If you do not have access to a code reader then it is cheaper to buy one than pay a garage for a diagnostic. An example of one that also gives some engine live data https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT200.html The fault could be any of the engine sensors and if you tried to guess which one is faulty you could waste a lot of money before finding the right one. When the light is on the engine may be running in limp mode which will limit the performance to prevent excessive exhaust emissions. You can still use the car but it could reduce the life of the exhaust catalyst.

Can you hear the motor working in the light when the switch is adjusted ? If so the motor might have become disconnected from the light reflector.

The old fault codes remain until they are deleted using a code reader so the garage might have deleted it. You can also get pending codes which also need a code reader to see but if there are any it would suggest the problem is still there but not bad enough for the light to come on or for a warning message to be given.

Does it squeak when you take it up and down on the suspension ? You could check if the strut gaiter is making a noise if it rubs on the strut, then you would need to check the suspension joints and anti roll bar drop links. If you are going under the car make sure you use axle stands to support the body since it a height sensor is caught the suspension can quickly drop to a very low level. Once on stands you can also check the height sensor and it has been reported the arms on these can break but are available from Citroen. If you are going to jack the car up, the suspension should first be raised to max height and the lds fluid tank cap slackened off until the car wheels are back on the ground (if not it can split).

Did you get the old fault code from when the light came on, just in case it comes back again it will give you an idea what might be wrong ?

Welcome to the forum. You should have a validation email, possibly in your email spam folder which you need to validate to be able to post in the forum.

Welcome to the forum. On Citroens, usually a single washer pump does front and rear windows but runs in opposite directions but the water goes through different pipes. If one is blocked then the water will only come out of the other. If you can hear the pump running when trying both the front and rear washers then it could be the pipes or washer jets to the front are blocked. It could be when the pump was replaced some dirt got in to the pipework that has caused a blockage. It might need the pump removing again to sort it or you could try disconnecting a pipe at the washer end under the bonnect and trying to see if something flushes out when trying the washer to the front.

Leaking seals where the injectors seal at the cylinder head might be a common problem but surely not at 3000 miles. It needs doing sooner rather than leaving it though to prevent carbon build up stopping easy removal of the injectors. Makes you wonder if they were not tightened up enough when built.