paul.h

Just thinking, if it is an electric handbrake then I guess you put it on but it puts itself off, so effectively the same as hill start assist. This is copied from a 2011 handbook: Release The electric parking brake releases automatically and progressively when you press the accelerator: ï† with a manual gearbox (first gear or reverse gear engaged) press down fully on the clutch pedal then press on the accelerator pedal and move off. with an automatic gearbox , accelerate with the selector in position D, M or R .

In the handbook for our C5 it gives under the CLIM button section which gives access to the air con controls as well as going through the multi function display: --------------------------------------- To deactivate/activate the differentiated air conditioning adjustment for the driver's side / passenger's side. After a selection using the arrow controls, press 'OK', or on the control, to validate your modification of the activated/deactivated status of the differentiated dual-zone air conditioning. Activation of the function renders the adjustments on the passenger's side identical to those chosen by the driver. Note: Any manual action on control 1b or 4b will return the adjustments to independent mode. (1b is the passenger temp control, 4 is the fan speed control so 4b may be a misprint) ---------------------------------------------------- Looking in a handbook for your car, it seems you do not have a CLIM button and your temp controls are dials rather than press buttons but you could try pressing on one of these or the large OK button to see if it does anything after you alter the temp on the driver's side.

Do not worry about the eco message, that is normal and will go once the engine runs again. If you have a volt meter you can check if 12 volts is reaching the starter motor when the ignition key is turned and this will eliminate the ignition switch if you do get 12 volts. First thoughts are it could be the starter motor, possibly the solenoid or the motor brushes. When trying to start and it does not turn over can you hear a click as the starter solenoid moves ? You could also try a wire direct from the battery to the starter motor solenoid with the car in neutral - if the starter is ok it should then turn over the engine. As well as earth wires to the body, there will be one to the engine/gearbox that needs checking.

The other 7 Citroen cars have not given any problems. Before Citroens I had 3 Saabs and these took up a lot of time and expense doing diy repairs. The Saab 900i though was on 200k miles when I replaced it at 14 years old after 8 years use, the 9000 on 150k miles but the 9-5 only 99k miles and this was the worst needing a turbo and steering rack. Other cars have also needed body repairs due to rusting which has not been a problem on Citroens.

I would not put our C3 down as that bad, but had problems I would not expect. Other than these it was reliable and gave good service, just the BMW design (I think) engine is not that good and other makes of car with the same engine have the same engine problems such as the Mini. It has not put us off Citroen cars but I will avoid the vti petrol engine. It has now been replaced by a C4 Cactus 1.6 hdi since the C3 was now a bit small. So within our family over the last 12 years we've had 2 C5s, 3 C4s, a Xsara Picasso, 2 C3s (both petrol, the other cars all diesel) and now the Cactus. Prior to getting Citroens I used to spend much of my spare time fixing cars but this ended when we changed to Citroens but these have been newer and lower mileage cars which helps. If you can, I would try Citroen UK before you pay the bill since comments on here suggest it is difficult to get anywhere with them and once you have paid they might show even less interest. I think I read somewhere it is better to contact them through social media which can get a quicker response - see this topic as an example http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21266-brand-new-citroen-ds5-plenty-of-faults-and-bad-paint-job/page-0

70 miles away our previous dealer Bentleys in Warrington were always good before we moved. Just over an hour from Llandudno if you can not find anyone.

There have been problems with our 2010 C3 which I also would not have expected and effectively made the car expensive, 1.4 vti petrol vtr+. It got more use than your C3 though, bought 2013 at 12k miles and on 55k miles over 4 years when replaced. The heater warm air control cable started bending since the warm air flap was seizing so the heater could not be set to warm. A sign of this is the heater warm control knob does not turn easily over its full range. In the end a new heater was needed at about £1400 fitted by Citroen. A drive shaft oil seal needed replacing as it started to leak (about £180). The timing chain needed replacing at only 55k miles - we have now changed the car with this fault but the parts alone were up to £300 and about £400 labour (or about £50 for timing tools if DIY). The rear drum brake cylinders do not seem to last that long and I have replaced 3 over the last 3 years, about £40 each from Citroen but a diy job and found leaking slightly during the annual brake clean. There have been oil leaks on the engine - the timing chain tensioner had not been fully tighened when built (a common fault), a solenoid on the oil pump was leaking when the car was 3 years old but fixed under warranty. One of the rear suspension coil springs broke whilst out of warranty but again fixed by Citroen without charge as a good will gesture (Citroen do this if coil springs break). This engine has always used engine oil, about 1 litre every 3000 miles, the first on a car we have owned since the 1980s. It also seemed to use a bit of coolant but there were no leaks. One of the cam shaft sensors failed but only about £30 to replace diy.

Welcome to the forum. On the C8 a common problem is the timing belt can snap well before replacement is due from water dripping on to it. If the belt has not been replaced recently it should at least be checked.

At only averaging 500 miles a year it would possibly be cheaper to use taxis than own a car. Even though it is low mileage, it will still need annual (or 2 year) services at around £200 a time, on top of the other car ownership costs and depreciation - probably together giving in the region of £2000 a year. However, using your own car is more convenient.

As well as a new ecu, other options include replacing with a used one plus all the immobiliser involved parts or getting your ecu repaired by somebody such BBA reman (this could cost about a quarter of a new one). First though I would check its connections to see if any have water damage since I have read that water can get in to the wiring from the washer pump and work its way back to the ecu.

It does not matter too much where you post unless specific to one model. This forum does not have a large following of active members, just a few regulars and often it can take some time for a response.   As far as I know, Citroen radios are coded to the car they were originally installed on and if the battery is disconnected they do not need a code to be used to get it to work again. However, this might be different on ones more than about 15 years old. If the radio is then used on another car it may not work properly or beep until it is recoded to the new car with a diagnostic. There might also be places or radio repair shops that can decode a radio so it can be used elsewhere but a quick internet search did not come up with anything.

I would not drill holes in the discs, it will weaken them and as a modification you would need to tell your insurance company. The rear discs on our C4 (manual handbrake) are slightly scored unlike the fronts and when I cleaned the brakes a few weeks ago I used 180 grit emery paper on them to remove the glaze and also on the pads as usual.

Welcome to the forum. I had not heard of cxoc until now but this forum has been going from at least 2003.

Welcome to the forum. On the C5 Technical section there is a pinned topic of Common Problems that is worth a look at. The steering racks can leak fluid needing a reconditioned one and the fluid pipes connecting to it can also leak - a bit of grease on the column shaft where it joins the rack ans some on the pipe joints may be able to prevent these problems.

Did the RAC plug in a code reader to find out what was wrong - if so did they give you the code ? If it starts again once cooled down then it could be a faulty cam shaft sensor or crankshaft sensor but you should still read the codes before buying any parts. It is very unlikely to be a blocked particulate filter since this would not cause it to cut out. Both these sensors are about £30 so if one of these it should not cost much to fix.

Welcome to the forum. If you are going to the bother of removing the timing chain cover you should also consider replacing the chain/guides/tensioner/water pump since the job to remove the cover is most of the work needed when replacing the chain. Book time is around 5 to 6 hours to replace the cover and about 1 hour more doing the other bits to replace the chain. The job seems to be similar to replacing a timing belt on a car but since the cover has a sealant gasket (E10 mentioned in the procedure) this is released with a knife blade starting at the top. The following is copied from the Citroen service box procedures for timing chain replacement for the Relay 3 with the 2.2 hdi 100 engine but does not include the pictures since these do not copy from the dvd. If only doing the cover it will not be necessary to fit the timing tools. Note the torque values are given in daN.m multiply these values by 10 to give Nm. 1. Recommended tools [1] flywheel locking tool (Double flywheel) (-).0198.A[2] Timing cover centring pin (-).0198.G[3] camshaft gear setting rod (-).0198.B2[4] roller locking pin (-).0198.J[5] crankshaft seal fitting tool (timing side) (-).0198.D[6] Crankshaft drive tool (-).0198/2.A 2. RemovingESSENTIAL : Respect the safety and cleanliness recommendations that are specific to high pressure diesel injection (HDi) engines.CAUTION : After switching off the ignition, wait 15 minutes before disconnecting the battery (to guarantee that the initialisations of the various ECUs are memorised). (Disconnecting the battery may not be necessary)Place the vehicle on a 2 -post lift.Remove the front right-hand wheel.Disconnect the battery negative terminal. (If deciding to disconnect the battery)Remove :The right-hand protector under the engineThe front right mud shield (see the relevant operation)The upper central bumper (see the relevant operation)The right-hand headlamp (see the relevant operation)The right-hand bumper (see the relevant operation)3. Removing (continued) Remove one accessories drive pulley (2) fixing bolt (1). Fit the tool [6].Secure the tool [6a] ; Using the screws [6b].Fit the driver [6c].Tighten the bolt [6d] .Remove :The auxiliary equipment drive belt (see the relevant operations)The alternator and air conditioning compressor drive belt guide rollers Check the electrical operation of the equipmentESSENTIAL : Do not slacken the bolts securing the top dead centre sensor support on the engine.Remove :The air filter casingThe engine speed sensorPeg the crankshaft, using tool [1].Remove :The tool [[6]]The bolts (1)The ancillary drive pulley (2)Support the engine ; Using a workshop crane. Remove :The upper engine mounting (3)The intermediate engine mounting (4) Release the timing cover crank shaft pulley ring oil seal (6) ; Using the tool [5] and turning through 1/4 of a turn anticlockwise.CAUTION : Detach the timing cover (5) ; Using a knife blade, starting at the top.Remove :The sealing ring (6)The cover 19 bolts (7)The cover nuts (8)The timing cover (5)Peg the camshafts ; Using tool [3]. Insert a screwdriver at "a".Move aside the chain tensioner ratchet (9) (Outwards).Compress the timing chain tensioner (9) ; By means of a screwdriver.Lock the timing chain tensioner ; Using tool [4]. Remove :The tool [3]The upper chain guide (11)The camshaft drive sprockets (14)The timing chain (12)The timing chain guide (13)The timing chain guide (10)The chain tensioner (9)4. CheckESSENTIAL : Just prior to refitting, carry out the checks below.Check the condition of the timing chain.Check the condition of the chain guides.Check the condition of the chain tensioner. 5. Refitting Refit :The chain guide (10)The chain tensioner (9)The bolts (18)Tighten the bolts (18) to 1,6 ± 0,3 daN.m.Position the timing chain (12) on the camshaft drive sprockets (14).Align the links marked in black "b" and "c" with the teeth marked "d" and "e" on the camshaft drive sprockets (14).Refit the timing chain (12) and camshaft drive sprockets (14) assembly on :The double sprocket (17)The exhaust camshaftThe inlet camshaftRefit :The screws (15), (16), without tightening themThe tool [3]The chain guide (11) ; Tightening to 1,6 ± 0,3 daN.mThe chain guide (13) ; Tightening to 1,6 ± 0,3 daN.mRemove the tool [4]. Unscrew :The (15) boltThe (16) boltCheck that the screws (15), (16) are not at the end of slots.Tighten the bolts (15), (16) to 3,3 ± 0,3 daN.m.Remove the tool [3]. CAUTION : Clean the cover gasket faces with an approved descaling product. Do not use abrasives or sharp tools on the joint faces. The seal faces should not show any traces of impacts or scratches.Apply a bead of index "E10" sealant to the periphery of the timing cover (5).Refit :The timing cover (5)The 19 bolts (7)The nuts (8)Centre the timing cover (5) ; Using tool [2].Tighten :The 19 bolts (7) to 1,1 ± 0,2 daN.mThe nuts (8) to 1 ± 0,1 daN.m Refit the ring oil seal (6) (Fitted with its fitting cone).Engage the ring oil seal (6) in the timing cover (5).Remove the fitting cone from the ring seal (6).Lock the ring seal (6) ; Using the tool [5] and turning through 1/4 of a turn clockwise.Refit :The intermediate engine mounting (4)The upper engine mounting (3)Tighten :The intermediate engine mounting bolts (12 diameter) to 8 ± 1,1 m.daNThe intermediate engine mounting bolt (10 diameter ) to 4,8 ± 0,6 m.daN (without air conditioning compressor)The intermediate engine mounting pillar screw to 4,8 ± 0,6 m.daN Check the electrical operation of the equipmentThe upper engine mounting bolts to 10 ± 2,3 m.daNThe upper engine mounting nuts to 11 ± 1,2 m.daNCoat screws (1) with LOCTITE FRENETANCH E3.Refit :The ancillary drive pulley (2)The bolts (1)Tightening method for the screws (1) :Tighten to 4,5 ± 0,4 daN.mAngular tighten to 120 ± 5°Remove the tool [1]. Refit :The engine speed sensor (19)The (20) boltCAUTION : When refitting an engine speed sensor, the air gap between the sensor and the target must be observed.ESSENTIAL : Set the engine speed sensor by positioning a 1,2 mm thick shim at " f " before tightening the screw (20).Tighten the bolt (20) to 0,7 ± 0,1 daN.m.Refit the air filter housing.Refit :The alternator and air conditioning compressor drive belt guide rollers Check the electrical operation of the equipmentThe auxiliary equipment drive belt (see the relevant operations)The right-hand bumper (see the relevant operation)The right-hand headlamp (see the relevant operation)The upper central bumper (see the relevant operation)The front right mud shield (see the relevant operation)The right-hand protector under the engineThe front right wheelReturn the vehicle to its wheels. Tighten the wheel bolts.Reconnect the battery negative terminal.Start the engine.Check the voltage supplied by the engine speed sensor ; Using the diagnostic equipment.CAUTION : The voltage must be 3,2 ± 0,2 V.

Apart from taking it for a run, I would not spend anything or do anything to it without reading the fault code. You could have a look for any obvious loose connectors but to start spending money in the hope of guessing the right fault can result in a waste of a lot of money. Whilst the engine light is on the car will be in limp mode so will not perform as well as normal and this could result in shortening the life of the exhaust catalyst. Where in the country are you, on one of the C5 sections there is a pinned topic of members able to help with a diagnostic check so you could see if any are in your area. Looking in the handbook for the car on page 30, it gives a warning symbol for the dpf (exhaust particulate filter) blocking and gives this advice As soon as driving conditions allow, regenerate the filter by driving at a speed of at least 35 mph (60 km/h) until the warning lamp goes off. If you do not have the handbook available, it can be read here after selecting your language, the car and model year http://service.citroen.com/ddb/

It could be the dpf blocking or it it could be something else and you will need to use a code reader to find out. Check your handbook to see if your car gives a warning if the dpf (FAP) is blocking before the engine light comes on. It is cheaper to buy a code reader than pay a garage to read the codes. As an example of one that also gives some engine live data https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT200.html

Both common problems, this is from the Common Problems topic: 25. New C5 (mark 3/X7) steering rack oil leaks - at least 8 cases so far. We have 2 members jefflad and Howiec with steering rack leaks that are proving difficult to fix. Where the supply and return pipes join the rack, the seals are leaking fluid. It seems Citroen want to replace the pipes to fix this and that just replacing the O-ring seals does not work. Citroen also do not sell the seals separately. An additional 2 members, Parkesie and johnfing, have found a leak from the steering column shaft input seal on top of the steering rack, which initially was thought to be the pipe seals. This seal also is not available so replacement racks have been fitted. The column shaft has badly rusted so may be the cause of the leak - applying grease could possibly prevent this. See http://www.citroen-o...uid/#entry75684 . See also this topic for info on replacing the rack http://www.citroen-o...ent/#entry81594 There are 2 more cases here and one being caused by corrosion of the rack where the alloy oil pipes connect http://www.citroen-o...-leaking-fluid/ Have a look at this topic from C5greener for another leak point in the piping near the rack http://www.citroen-o...-steering-leak/ This topic from taximan61 for his 2011 C5 (X7) had the leaking rack and pipes repaired in Wakefield. This is the youngest C5 with a leaking rack so it is not just the early ones that leak. http://www.citroen-o...-steering-leak/ The company in Wakefield also recommend replacing the low pressure pipe since it is alloy at the end but is held by a steel clamp which causes corrosion.

Is the abs working as you brake since this would give a rapid pulsing felt in the pedal ? Otherwise, a pulsing pedal could be the run out on one or more discs could be too much or possibly a brake piston is a bit seized or a caliper slider. When the discs are replaced the runout should be checked and if high the hub/disc contact faces checked again for being clean/smooth and possibly the disc rotated against the hub 90/180 degrees and checked again. If it is high then problems may not happen immediately but come to light later, which could be your case. I think the max runout is 0.05 mm and needs to be checked using a dial gauge resting against the disc face as the hub is turned. You can still do this check with the wheels removed in turn. The dial gauge needs to be clamped to something and I usually use an axle stand base on the ground with the dial gauge clamped to it with something like mole grips. Then position it so the gauge rests against the outer area of the face and rotate the hub watching the readings on the dial. I would also check the front discs so these can be eliminated. Whilst you have the wheels removed it would help to clean up the brakes so everything is easy to move and not seized by brake dust. Something that should be due anyway after 15000 miles. This may not be that easy with the electric handbrake and if new pads are fitted I think you are supposed to have the handbrake calibrated with a diagnostic. I have seen on our cars the rear discs do not seem to wear as smoothly as the fronts so this in itself may not be too much to worry about. This is also some thing else to check from the Common Problems topic: 59. C5 X7 front discs warping. Something to check, copied from a post by taximan61: Got the car October 2015 when it was 4 years old and had 115k on. One owner and with a full dealer history, paid £4500 for it. Had a recurring problem with front discs warping, 2 sets only lasted a couple of months. Garage eventually sorted it, inside the caliper pin rubber guides there are plastic spacer rings, these go brittle with the heat and jam the caliper, used to be a problem on the old AX models I'm told. These were removed and all is well.

On this topic C 5 Estate has posted he lives in Preston and has a Delphi which I am not sure if this will do what you need but I would try a message to him to see if he can help. He has been on the forum this week as well so is an active member on the forum. steve18gls has posted on this topic he has a lexia and was last on the forum May 2016 so could be worth a message. He is in Blackburn.

If the air con still smells it will need disinfecting. On our C5 the best way is to remove the pollen filter and then using a lance type garden sprayer in the pollen filter hole, insert the lance and spray Dettol non bleach surface cleanser on to the air con evaporator matrix so it is all covered. If too much is used it will run out of the air con drain. From the parts diagrams it looks as if the C5 X7 has a similar heater where the pollen filter is accessed in the passenger footwell. https://www.tesco.com/groceries/en-GB/products/255282067?sc_cmp=ppc*GHS%20-%20Grocery%20-%20New*PX%20%7C%20Shopping%20GSC%20%7C%20Top%20Offers*PRODUCT%20GROUP255282067*&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvsCL7qjG1gIV7Z3tCh3yzAMXEAUYAiABEgJm8vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds The diesel fuel filter looks to be at the right back corner of the engine as you look from the front. It has 4 bolts on the lid which need removing so the filter element can be lifted out. The following is the procedure from the Citroen Service box but without the pictures which do not copy. ESSENTIAL : If raising the vehicle on a lift, wheels hanging, remove the cap of the LDS fluid reservoir. Refit the cap of the LDS fluid reservoir, once you have lowered the vehicle.1. Recommended tools [1] plugs kit (-).0188.T. These usually come with a new filter if from a dealer.[2] Degreasing product SODIMAC. To clean out the filter body but something like carb cleaner should do.[3] Brush.[4] Cleaning tray.[5] Diesel substitute (kerdane-dilutine or paraffin).[6] Blanking cover for snap-on unions 5705-T.[7] Connector for diesel filter bleeding. 2. RemovingCAUTION : Keep the luggage compartment lid open.Disconnect the battery. (This is probably not needed and I did not do this on our C5).Remove :The protective panel under the engine (This is so a container can be put under the filter to drain in to - when doing our C5 I just held a cup under the end of the drain hose without needing to remove the panel under the engine)The engine coversThe air cleaner (complete)The air inlet duct from the rear turbocharger (The procedure does not mention when to fit this and the air cleaner back).N.B. : Place a draining tray under the engine.Slacken the 4 bolts (4) on the filter lid.Open the bleed screw (1). This looks to be under the pipes connected to the filter. Before doing this make sure the drain hose is in place on the filter underneath so the diesel drains through it or it will spray out.Clean the pipe unions on the filter at "a" ; By means of tools [2], [3] and [4].Disconnect the pipes (2) and (3).CAUTION : When uncoupling the pipes, plug the holes ; Using the tools [6].CAUTION : Plug the pipes on the fuel filter ; as "a" ; Using the tools [1].Remove the bolts (4).Remove :The filter cover (5) and filter element (6) assemblyThe seal (8) of the cover (5)3. Cleaning the fuel filterCAUTION : Do not clean the fuel filter with a cloth. Do not use compressed air.Let the fuel in the fuel filter (7) drain out. Unscrew nut (12) and bolts (9, 10, 11) holding the filter body in place and then remove the filter body (7). Pour the product [5] into the tray [4].Clean the fuel filter body; Using tool [3].Drain the fuel filter.Dry and wipe the fuel filter using a high-precision wiper (available from Replacement Parts). 4. RefittingCAUTION : Open the sachet containing the new filter element just before refitting. Refit :A (new) seal (8) on the cover (5)The (new) filter element (6) on the cover (5)The filter element (6) and cover (5) assembly in the fuel filter (7)The bolts (4)Remove tool [6] from pipe (2).Connect the pipe (2).Reconnect the battery (if this was done). 5. Bleeding the supply circuitHere it uses pipes to by pass bits but probably all it needs is the normal flow pipes reconnecting and the engine switching on/off a number of times. On our C5 these by pass pipes were not needed but it has a priming pump which was used. Hence the following may not be needed to be followed. Couple the female union (Ø 10 mm) of the tool[7] in place of the pipe (3) ( as "b").Disconnect the fuel return pipe (13) and insert the union (Ø8 mm) of the tool [7] into the fuel return circuit.Switch the engine on and off 10 times in order to fill and bleed the fuel filter.Remove :The tool [7]The tool [6] from the pipe (3)Couple up pipes (3) and (13).Switch the engine on and off 2 times. 6. Checking the sealStart the engine.Check the absence of leaks.7. Refitting (continued)Refit :The engine coverThe protective panel under the engine8. Bleed during service (presence of water) Place a draining tray under the engine.Open the bleed screw (1). (Check the filter drain hose is in place fastened to the bottom of the filter)Switch the engine on and off 3 times.Close the bleed screw (1).

Next you will be doing the cabin filter, brake cleaning, brake fluid change, diesel filter drain (or replace depending on mileage) and that will be the complete service for another 1 or 2 years. Should save you £200 to 300 on labour costs compared to a dealer so well worth doing your self.

Have you checked if there are any warning messages to go with the Service light ? Somewhere through the radio menu you ought to be able to read any. Things I can think of that could bring up the message could include brake pad wear if the pads have wear indicators (or a wire problem), low battery voltage - a possibility since the battery is about 8 years old and the message is likely to come on as the car is started when the voltage will drop and will probably be worse on the first start each day and when cold weather, low brake fluid level, the service indicator possibly not being reset, possibly a light bulb failed, electric handbrake fault, etc. If you are thinking of changing your car to one with a blue hdi engine, these use Total 0w30 First oil so I would not stock up with 5w30 oil for your existing engine. Our C3 has been changed and I had bought enough 5w30 oil for it and the C5 for a year to cover servicing/use, but now the C3 has gone I have enough oil for 4 years, hope it does not go off.

Only way to find out what the car thinks is wrong is to plug a code reader in but you could have look round to see if there is anything obvious such as a connector loose or air duct loose. It is cheaper to buy a code reader than pay a garage to read the codes, as an example of one that also gives some live data https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT200.html