paul.h

The RPO should be 19737, I think the U9 is not needed. KLMC is the paint code.

It seems that maybe the key is not being recognised, you could try the spare but maybe there is a wiring or connection problem from the previous work or possibly if the battery was disconnected too quickly before the bsi shutdown, then the ecu was affected (there is a battery disconnection procedure in the C5 Technical section Common Problems pinned topic). You have tried bsi resets, so have a look at the wiring/connections but then it may need a dealer visit for an immobilser diagnostic.

Welcome to the forum, a good choice of car. On the C5 Technical section there is a pinned topic of Common Problems and some are for the 2008 on C5 (X7). A couple of them are a leaking steering rack and the front wipers not working. If you need a workshop manual the Citroen service box comes on 3 dvds through such as ebay and is installed on your pc. It includes procedures, wiring and parts diagrams.

Welcome to the forum. Maybe there is a problem with the left hand curtain air bag and it needs replacing or it could be a wiring problem. The rain sensor might be the sensor or a wiring problem, you could check its wiring and connections - the sensor should be on the inside of the windscreen near the top middle.

This topic has a post by randombloke which says how to reset the trip computer, a steering wheel button is pressed http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/24125-c5-x7-08-exclusive-miles-kilometres/ On the steering wheel centre, when the car is stationary with ignition on and engine running: Press the left hand thumb wheel briefly, not a long hold as this resets the trip.

For the correct oil look in your handbook but it could be Total INEO ECS 5w/30. A dealer will sell this for about £40 for 5 litres but it can be bought for a lot less online.

have you tried replacing the blower yet or are you hoping to repair the existing one ? The Haynes manual shows the blower/resistor gets its 12 volt supply from the heating control panel which gets it from the engine fusebox which has the relays and fuses.

You should be able to change this through the menu on the radio, could then be configuration and units. If you have the handbook it will be in there somewhere, if you do not have one these can be read/copied/printed in sections from here http://service.citroen.com/ddb/ you may need to select your language first.

I am not sure if correct, but are you saying the engine oil/filter was last changed 2 years ago and you have done about 14k miles since then ? The gunk could be the result of not using the correct oil and not changing it often enough and if the oil changes were done by sucking the old oil out then any thick oil/sludge could be left behind. Other engines suffer from this and if you dismantle an engine there will likely be thick oil/paste stuck inside various parts and if you want you could remove the sump and clean it out. On the 1.6 hdi the oil should be changed every 12k miles (or 2 years if sooner or brave enough to risk 2 years) whereas other Citroen engines are 20k miles or 2 years if sooner. Citroen reduce these frequencies for arduous use which is short trips to 10k miles or 1 year if sooner. Coastline's comment about letting the engine idle so the turbo can cool and slow down before switching the engine off (which then stops the oil flow to the turbo) is usually mentioned in the car handbooks and is normal practice for any turbo car.

Have a look at this topic, possibly a flap is sticking a bit and when you switch off the flap is moved/reset. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22766-air-blower-not-kicking-out-much-air/page-2

In the oil supply pipe there is a filter mesh that should be removed and not replaced. When refitting this pipe the banjos have to be held whilst bolts are tightened to prevent the pipe/banjo twisting. The oil return pipe should be replaced (or at least cleaned out). An oil/filter change could be done and if there is no play in the turbo bearings you may want to refit it and see how you get on, but see if anyone else provides any advice. If the turbo bearings are worn you can get replacement cartridges and there is a topic by citrophile who has done this a couple of times.

For our 2007 Navi drive you go in to the map menu (press Menu button and then find the Map menu) to change the orientation to the north setting. I find the north setting though is confusing, preferring to see the map the same as the road layout in front of the car, but see how you get on. I managed to delete the previous owner's address list, possibly through the configuration or navigation menus but I can not remember how and I can not find anything in the handbook. It does say the previous destinations list only holds the last 20 but there can also be ones stored in a directory.

One problem looking on the internet, not many people post about how reliable their cars are, most posts are asking for help on a problem so a false impression on reliability is found. All our Citroens have been reliable, hence over the last 11 years that is all we have bought but they have been low mileage which may help. I have also found that buying a younger, lower mileage car is usually more reliable than an older car but whilst it costs more to buy, it costs less to maintain so overall costs of ownership are not that much different. Previous cars owned were not that reliable and I used to spend a lot of time fixing them. We never had a diesel until our first Citroen and things like turbos, egr valves, catalysts have been on the petrol cars. We had a 1988 Saab 900i on which I had to clean the egr valve each year, a 1998 Saab 9-5 on which the turbo failed towing a caravan on the M6. If you like the C5 and do not want to worry about turbos failing at low miles or exhaust filters, then a 2001 to 2004 2.0 hdi would be a good option. A later diesel will have the exhaust filter but if you go for the 2.0 hdi it has a better reliability record than the 1.6 hdi. Our latest 2007 C5 has the 2.2 hdi 173 bhp engine and it has not been any bother but it is low mileage and used mostly for a few long trips each year so should not give any dpf problems. Similarly the previous 2004 2.2 hdi C5. The C5s have been bought to pull a caravan, needing a heavy car and the hydractive suspension is good for towing. The size is also good for moving large loads. About 45 to 50 mpg or 30 mpg if towing. The C4 is a good all round car, large enough for most use, is comfortable and good on fuel economy - we are on our 3rd 1.6 hdi but previous ones have been changed when about 50k miles and 4 years old before any mechanical issues could start. We have the diesel due to high annual mileage with frequent long trips. Other than cleaning of brakes, these have not been diy serviced due to warranties. About 50 to 70 mpg depending on use. The only petrol Citroens we've had in our family are a 2003 1.4 C3 and a 2010 1.4 vti C3 - both reliable and easy to diy maintain. These started as a learner car, for short trips but on the vti for the extra power since longer motorway use was expected and at the time of purchase a diesel was too expensive. About 45 mpg from both, depending on use. If you want something a bit different the Xsara Picasso is worth considering. We had a 2005 2.0 hdi, no exhaust dpf, reasonable economy about 50 mpg, lots of room inside and the rear seats are easy to remove and you almost have a van. Being high up it felt to roll a bit on bends. This engine was replaced by the 1.6 hdi about 2005 but then the turbo and dpf problems need to be considered. We tried this pulling the caravan but it was not really heavy enough so was not stable enough for my liking.

The service will be engine oil/filter change, pollen filter change, air filter change, diesel filter change, a few checks but these are mostly the same ones as the MOT. Anything else such as cleaning the brakes, brake/clutch fluid change will be extra. Coastline has indicated the gearbox oil change is about £100 and a full price MOT is about £55 so the service element is about £135. Apart from the gearbox oil change, these are all fairly straight forward diy jobs and OEM parts from Citroen are about diesel filter £65, oil filter £7, 6 litres of Total INEO ECS 5w/30 oil about £50 (internet will be less), sump plug washer 40p, air filter £20, pollen filter £20 - so the parts total about £165 to do DIY. Since this is more than Citroen are charging for the service element you need to check what is covered. The slight steering knock could be a worn anti roll bar drop link and this would be picked up at the MOT. If the noise is from the back of the car, the C5 can be a bit clunky noise wise when going over bumps, but if squeaking then it could be the rear suspension arm bearings are worn - if the tops of the wheels are leaning in then this could be a sign. If when you reverse and apply the brakes the back ones clunk then that is normal but if bothered there are shims that fit over the top of the pads but where not originally installed and are now on the parts diagrams. If there is a squealing noise from the back brakes the corrosion that forms between the rear calipers and suspension arm neds cleaning off - there is a pinned topic on cleaning the rear brakes.

We could do with coastline taxis to help on this or you could try a message to him. If going the used route, I think you need the ecu, the remote keys, the radio or to program it to the new ecu, possibly immobiliser bits but I am not sure, the fuel injectors might need programming to the new ecu but I am not sure. To change the ecu would not take long, it is probably a case of disconnecting the battery, unplugging the ecu and then removing/fitting the new one, then any other bits that need doing and then the diagnostic work to configure everything. You could also try the reconditioning route of your existing ecu so your existing other parts do not need changing or need any diagnostic work.

Welcome to the forum. This is a common problem and replacement metal handles are available through ebay. This topic shows how to open the glovebox using a screwdriver in place of the handle http://c4owners.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.2.185

Thanks for getting back to us. Unless something has happened to the bsi, then this fault may have been there since new and to be a recall there will be a lot of cars with the same fault - pity Citroen did not get in touch about the recall. Maybe the previous owner never tried the asc button.

If you use your insurance to cover the side window replacement you may find the excess to pay is not as much as for the windscreen (usually £75), plus it will not affect your no claims. The Haynes manual covers removing the door glass and it seems straight forward - remove the door card/loudspeaker/plastic sealing sheet (new needed since it is cut out but duct tape may fix it), put the window about three quarters down, depress the tab on the window regulator lifting channel and lift the glass free from the support, lower the glass at the front and remove it from the outside of the door frame. I have put your car details as your signature to save you telling us what it is whenever you start a topic or leaving us to guess.

Citroen will often replace failed coil springs without charge if you ask your dealer. This was done on both our C3s - on the first a front one failed and the second a rear one failed. When they do this the springs on both sides are replaced to make sure they match.

How many miles has the car done and has it had frequent oil/filter changes using the correct oil ? It could be the turbo is badly worn and needs replacing/overhauling which is a common thing on the 1.6 hdi. During this other bits also need replacing to prevent the new turbo also failing early. If it is worn then if not sorted it is possible the turbo could beak and put bits of metal in to the engine causing further damage.

The Haynes manual is worth every penny. It covers most things on the car and if you need to do anything to it from changing a bulb to servicing the brakes etc it will be invaluable and it does cover the engine sensors. You can also get the Citroen service box on 3 dvds through ebay or also on a download (see the C8 section for this). These are installed on your pc and include the workshop procedures, parts diagrams and wiring diagrams - however, to use it you will need to put the computer on. There are some pinned topics on here to help, such as servicing the brakes and common problems.

Welcome to the forum. Previous comments about FAP removal are no longer valid since a few years ago it became illegal and checks are made at the MOT to see if the FAP is still there, although they could miss one that still appears externally to be present. People on here have said that provided there is eolys fluid in the tank, it will continue to be dosed, even if there are messages saying the level is low. The level is not measured but is a calculation based on the number of fuel tank fills and when the level is topped up, the ecu needs to be told how much has been put in, hence the need for the diagnostic to stop the warning messages. The type of eolys fluid changed a few times but on the eolys tank there will be a coloured clip on a connector which shows which type it is. You could also check at a dealer using your car details (VIN, etc). If you do an advanced search on the forum on eolys fluid you may find the info - I have tried but my internet is very slow so I have given up.

The rear brakes may still need cleaning up, despite the test on a roller. You could do your own test by setting the suspension to max height, switch off and remove the igntion key, then jack up and spin the rear wheels and see if the wheel is stopped by the slightest touch on the brake pedal - if not then the pads are a bit seized. When I got our 1st C5 it was about 1½ years old, the rear discs were rusty and driving/hard braking did not clean them up. The dealer service manager gave some b**t about a pressure reducing valve limiting braking effort at the back, not wanting to sort it. Anyway, I took the brakes apart and found the pads had seized in the calipers. After cleaning/greasing the problem went but eventually I replaced the discs/pads. Note that since you have the hydractive suspension, if you are going under the car axle stands should always be used to support the body since if a height adjuster is caught the suspension can quickly drop to a very low level. The suspension should also be set at maximum height before jacking up to avoid possible suspension problems - this will be in the handbook somewhere.

I do not think there is anything different to normal you need to do to your car, other than remove anything inside on view if it is being left outside. You should not have any problem with the battery so no need to disconnect it. It is the 2001 to 2008 C5 that flattens the battery over about a month if not used. If you are in the RAC or similar and you found the battery was flat when you come back, they will jump start the car from their battery and it will then be ok. I keep our C5 in a garage and it often does not get used for a few weeks so I leave the handbrake off (but in gear), since the brake discs can rust a bit and the brake pads stick, especially if the car was wet when put away. If I was leaving the car on a slope or on a road I would keep the handbrake on to make sure the car did not move, as well as leaving it in gear. When they have stuck, it takes a few goes at moving the car before they release but I have not caused any damage to the pads/discs, however, I need to make sure the car is not going to jump forward/reverse in to something as the brakes release. Unless your tyres are leaking, they will also be ok - not many people check their tyre pressures evey week or even every month so over your holiday I do not think you need to do anything special.

Unless you are having starting problems, I would be tempted to ignore the P1351 fault and you have already done the obvious thing of replacing the glow plugs.