paul.h

Did you have the smoke before the turbo was replaced - if not then maybe the garage has not put everything back such as a sensor electrical connector or vacuum pipe or maybe there is an air leak. Could also be the egr valve is not working/closing fully.

What car is it ? Was it a Citroen dealer that did the work, if not what diagnostic equipment was used to tell the ecu the fluid (presumably eolys fluid unless it is a more recent car using adblue) had been filled. People have said that on early C5s if there is eolys fluid in the additive tank then it will continue to be dosed if there are low level warning messages being given. Note that a level sensor is not used for the eolys fluid tank, it is just a calculation based on the number of fuel tank fills and when more fluid is put in the ecu needs a diagnostic to give the correct level. Also on early C5s the additive ecu needed replacing when the tank was filled since a diagnostic on its own could not reset the level - but since fluid is still being dosed the low level warning messages can be ignored to save the cost.

What car is it ? You could look in the handbook and see which fuse it is on and remove the fuse. Then later check the on/off switch to see if it is broken or maybe a relay is stuck on.

On our 2004 C5 and on our current 2007 C5 I have found if the car is not used for about 4 weeks the battery goes flat, probably due to the alarm. I also have found the towbar electrics have a slight current draw so when not needed for towing I remove the fuses for it. It has been possible to jump start it or to remove the battery and charge it up without the battery getting too low to ruin it. If you can leave the doors unlocked, then it would be preferable to disconnect the battery to save the effort of jump starting or charging the battery before you can use the car again. In the C5 technical section pinned Common Problems topic there is a procedure for disconnecting/reconnecting the battery to prevent odd electrical problems but it is just doing it slowly to give the bsi time to shut down and start up again.

Are you saying the lock is not unlocking when you push the tail gate switch or is it unlocking but the struts/hinges are seized so the tail gate will not lift up or it will lift up with a bit of help but the struts are low on pressure ?

Try this to see if it works: http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23529-digital-display/?hl=digital

You might have set the dark panel or whatever it is called. I vaguely remember this being posted before but can not remember the fix.

Welcome to the forum. A quick search suggests the complete towbar would be about £200 for a Thule detachable so I can understand just going for the towball. This Thule brochure has contact details so you can try Thule directly for the part http://www.thuletowbars.com/downloads/catalogue/ENGELS_TOTAAL.pdf if you can not get the towball then it would be cheaper to fit a towbar with a fixed towball and the electrics would not need changing. Our last few towbars I fit myself and were from Towbars Direct and you could also contact them for the missing towball, as well as the cost of a replacement towbar which seems to be about £114 for a fixed towball http://www.towbarsdirect.co.uk/towbars.htm

What are you using to get the message - interior left wrong install ? If it is a Chinese Lexia copy then there have been reports that sometimes these can affect the programming of the parking sensors requiring them to be reprogrammed. This is from the C5 Common Problems topic: 35. Front parking sensors do not work after using a Lexia to check for a rear sensor fault. It has been reported a few times that after using a copy Lexia to diagnose a rear parking sensor fault, and then replacing the faulty rear sensor, the rears then work but the front then do not work. The cause is a glitch in the Lexia messing up the sensor programming which then needs to be redone using different equipment. See this post http://www.citroen-o...t-strange-this/

I have just looked at the handbook for your car on the service.citroen site http://service.citroen.com/ddb/ and your sat nav is a lot more complicated than the Navidrive one in our C5. On the Navidrive to find an address already used you simply go to select destination, then previous destinations and they are listed so you can choose one. Citroen sat navs have not used post codes previously so this is an improvement for your car.

Some info here on con rod failure but it does not say if they are 2.2 hdi engines http://www.peugeotcentral.co.uk/ftopic-14528-next.html

You can see the Citroen parts diagrams on-line as a free service if you register on service.citroen as an other professional non emergency services and as a member of the Citroen Owners Club. Once on the site use your VIN (VIS) top left to find your vehicle. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres you may need to select your language first and then click on the registration button top right to start.

Welcome to the forum. What year is your car and does it have Navidrive or Myway ? Our 2007 C5 has the Navidrive built in sat nav and looking in the handbook it only seems to use the centres of interest that are already programmed in to it, it does not mention personal POI's.

Did you replace the brushes or just get another starter motor, whichever, where from and how much for the parts ?

You might also check the wires at the starter are connected up. When the clutch is replaced the starter motor is removed after disconnecting the battery and the engine earth lead is undone so the gearbox can be removed, so maybe one of the wires was not tightened up/connected properly on refitting. You could also take it back to the garage for fixing if nothing obvious is found that you could do.

It is good to hear your car is getting sorted, you should be able to enjoy it now.

I have reached the limit of my knowledge on this topic so I can not suggest anything else other than suggest you visit a dealer.

Welcome to the forum. The car handbook lists the fuses. In the one for our 2015 C4 it gives the dashboard fusebox has fuse F13, 10 amp as being the 12 volt socket. It is probably the same in your car but you should still look in the handbook. If you do not have the handbook you can read/print/copy in sections from here but you may need to select your language first http://service.citroen.com/ddb/

When coastline taxis sees this topic he may have comments on doing the bearing replacement since I am sure he will have done them. The Haynes manual is useful for just the routine servicing and especially the brakes which need cleaning frequently. The rear brake calipers need removing every couple of years to remove the corrosion that builds up between the caliper and suspension arm. There are pinned topics on the brakes which are worth a look if you have not seen them. Post 13 by Shenden in this topic has links to pages from the Haynes manual so you can see what you are missing by not having one http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/8163-haynes-manual-for-c5/?hl=%2Bhaynes+%2Bmanual

Also possibly the file type on the cd is one the radio can not play. In the handbook somewhere will be a list of the types it will play.

What year is your car ? If the 2001 to 2008 model the Haynes manual covers replacing the bearings but there is a bit too much to put on here but it does not seem much different to other wheel bearing replacements. The bearing seal has a magnet for the abs so this needs to be in the correct side when refitted (driveshaft side). The bearing is held in by a large circlip. I have not replaced bearings on a C5 but on other cars I have used the outer shell of the old bearing against the new one and a hammer to tap it in, never having access to a press. The kit in the ebay link effectively does the same but instead of using a hammer, the bearing is pulled in by tightening on a threaded bar - you could do the same with a bit of threaded bar, a couple of nuts and washers and something against the new bearing and hub but make sure it works against the bearing outer shell. Threaded bar can be bought for a couple of pounds from Toolstation. I have also used various bits of wood to support the hub, tubes, screwdrivers/chisels, hammers, pullers when removing/tapping out the old bearings and an angle grinder if the inner shell has been stuck. Make sure the hub/bearing contact surface is not damaged before fitting the new bearing so it goes in ok and maybe a quick wipe with emery paper will clean it up.

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=23&t=625270 This discussion has some info on what the DVLA consider to be an auto car - one without a clutch pedal or lever. The car V5C should say if the car is an auto or manual.

Thankyou for getting back to us. It is always good to know how a problem was fixed.

I am not quite sure what keys you now have - is it a key without the remote locking buttons or a remote key - or is it a new and old key, both none remote ones. The following assumes you have a new key without the remote buttons and an old remote key with a worn key blade. Best thing will be to get a new remote key case through ebay for about £5, take it to a key cutting place and get the blade cut to your new key blade. Then put the insides from your old remote key case in to the ebay one. This way you end up with a good remote key and a spare none remote key. Note that the remote key blades can be removed by part opening the key blade so you can see at the case end a small roll pin in the blade - if you push out this roll pin the blade can be removed and swapped for another blade and the pin pushed back in. If it is a none remote key on which you want to fit a new blade, then these seem quite solid so you can only try to break it to get the blade out, hoping the internal chip for the transponder is not damaged. You could also see how far away the key needs to be from the ignition for it to not work the immobiliser, if a few inches then you could just get a cheap key cut and clip it to your worn key.

I could not hear the latest noise in the video. On the first one, in the middle of the dash is a hole with slots across - have a listen to see if the noise is from there since behind the hole there could be a humidity/temperature sensor with a fan built in that makes a noise.