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Everything posted by paul.h
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The P1133 might suggest the inlet lambda sensor is faulty (or its wiring) and the P1112 might suggest the MAF sensor or its wiring is faulty. You could start checking the connections at the sensors and the ecu. If you had a code reader that does live data you could see what values the sensors are giving to help with your diagnosis. The IAT should be ambient temperature before starting the engine but then may go up a bit so yuo should be looking for values from about 10 to 30°C. The inlet lambda sensor should be about 1.0 and switch every second or so by a small amount as it adjusts the fuelling. The outlet lambda sensor should be steady if the catalyst is ok but if this has a problem the running is not normally affected, unlike the inlet one.
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Not all Citroens have an alarm as standard, out of our Xsara Picasso, 3 C4s, 2 C3s, only the 2 C5s had an alarm. However, all had an immobiliser which I think is a legal requirement from some date.
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If you had managed to get a used speedo cluster the car would have adopted the higher mileage of your car or the used cluster, so something to be aware of. it is possible to have the mileage altered but you might need evidance to show the original mileage, or if you kept the higher mileage you would need to inform your insurance company in case the car appeared to have done more than your notified annual mileage.
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Maybe note what rpm the turbo kicks in at, I have noticed most seem to be around 1800 rpm, much below and the turbo is not doing much.
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For the 2008 on C5 (X7) model in Citroen's service box procedures, the lds tank can split if it is jacked up and the wheels left hanging if the tank cap is not slackened before jacking up and there has been a topic on here about it where a garage (not a Citroen one) did some work on a car and the tank appeared to explode. If this applies to the earlier model I am not sure. So you need to see if the apparent overflow of lds fluid is actually a split in the tank since the cap seals the tank which is normally under pressure and should not leak. When checking the lds tank level, the suspension should be put in the low position, the tank cap removed (as it is slackened there will be a release of pressure) and the fluid level should be at the bottom of the filling neck strainer. The steering rack oil leak is a common failure on the C5 (X7) and there are topics on here about it. Replacement with a reconditioned one seems to be the lowest cost fix for about £300. This is from the Common Problems topic: 25. New C5 (mark 3/X7) steering rack oil leaks - at least 8 cases so far. We have 2 members jefflad and Howiec with steering rack leaks that are proving difficult to fix. Where the supply and return pipes join the rack, the seals are leaking fluid. It seems Citroen want to replace the pipes to fix this and that just replacing the O-ring seals does not work. Citroen also do not sell the seals separately. An additional 2 members, Parkesie and johnfing, have found a leak from the steering column shaft input seal on top of the steering rack, which initially was thought to be the pipe seals. This seal also is not available so replacement racks have been fitted. The column shaft has badly rusted so may be the cause of the leak - applying grease could possibly prevent this. See http://www.citroen-o...uid/#entry75684 . See also this topic for info on replacing the rack http://www.citroen-o...ent/#entry81594 There are 2 more cases here and one being caused by corrosion of the rack where the alloy oil pipes connect http://www.citroen-o...-leaking-fluid/ Have a look at this topic from C5greener for another leak point in the piping near the rack http://www.citroen-o...-steering-leak/ This topic from taximan61 for his 2011 C5 (X7) had the leaking rack and pipes repaired in Wakefield. This is the youngest C5 with a leaking rack so it is not just the early ones that leak. http://www.citroen-o...-steering-leak/
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Two Faults In Six Days - Trip Computer Reset And Rusted Rear Discs
paul.h replied to KeithE's topic in C5 - Technical
Officially your car is a mark 2 with the 2004 to 2008 model being a revamp of the mark 1. However, it causes confusion so usually yours would be referred to as a mark 3 but it is better to call it the C5 (X7) to avoid the confusion. -
Failed Rear Left Suspension In Switzerland
paul.h replied to silasthesailor's topic in Problems and Fixes - C5
Maybe just the seal between the cylinder and sphere is leaking. However, to guarantee a repair a garage may want to replace the cylinder, seal and sphere. A rear cylinder (strut) in the UK is about £150, the seal not much and a sphere at a guess £50 plus you would need about £20 of lds fluid. Labour time to replace these bits is up to 1 hour so you ought to be paying about £300 for the job - I had a rear cylinder replaced 3 years ago at a Citroen dealer and it cost £244. So it would appear the garage you are using is hoping to rip you off since the parts prices will be the same across Europe but maybe their labour charge is about £800 an hour. -
Two Faults In Six Days - Trip Computer Reset And Rusted Rear Discs
paul.h replied to KeithE's topic in C5 - Technical
We need somebody with the same car as yours to help with the trip computer, it appears Citroen are using different buttons for it than other models and I had a quick look in a handbook and could not find it. -
If it is still under warranty you could try your Citroen dealer to see if they will replace them free. The nuts though should be hidden by the chrome plastic caps so if they do show any rust it would not be seen. You should also have the yellow plastic tool needed to pull off these caps. If these caps are not on your car then maybe when new the dealer did not fit them, we had to ask for them on our latest C4 and did not need to pay. If the wheels have not been removed from the car since new then they may be rusted to the hubs and need knocking off - I have used a piece of wood against the inside of the tyre (not against the alloy wheel which would damage it) and hitting it with a large hammer. Once off the car the wheel/hub contact points should be cleaned up and a smear of copper grease applied so it can not happen again. The wheel bolts should be tightened using a torque wrench to 100 Nm. You could get new locking nuts from your dealer and then the car remains standard and uses the same size 17mm wrench/socket.
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Two Faults In Six Days - Trip Computer Reset And Rusted Rear Discs
paul.h replied to KeithE's topic in C5 - Technical
The trip computer switch is on the end of the wiper stalk, not the indicator stalk. When it gets to about 6200 miles (9999 km) it stops going up since it would need an extra digit, so it needs to be reset by holding in the button on the end of the wiper stalk. Sounds as if the rear brakes need servicing since the pads may be seized and need cleaning up. Could also be a seized caliper. Being a 2008 on exclusive C5 (X7) the handbrake is electric and if you need to fit new pads it may need a diagnostic to calibrate it again. In your handbook it tells you how to manually take the handbrake off so the old pads can be removed but keep your fingers out of the way in case something happens and the handbrake comes on. Relevant topics found by an advanced search on 'handbrake' - 1st a seized caliper and 2nd replacing the rear pads - http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22759-c5-woes-brake-pad-warning/?hl=handbrake&do=findComment&comment=84303 - http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22636-c5-tourer-rear-pad-change-with-electric-handbrake/ I have put your car details on your signature to save you mentioning it every time you post. -
You can get the Citroen service box procedures which include the workshop manual, wiring and parts diagrams from ebay as 3 dvds to install on your pc. As an example http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-Service-Box-1-2014-TIS-EPC-WDS-/381321373493 . You can also get them as a download but it will take many hours this way.
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First make sure the ignition key is not in the car. The trim around the dials is unclipped/pulled off - there are 4 clips located top/bottom of the side dials. Then remove 4 bolts that hold the cluster and it should pull out. If you do not disconnect the battery then I would not unplug the cluster electrical connector to avoid any possible problems. I do not know if the bulb/led can be replaced but let us know what you find.
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With the timing belt you will also replace the tensioner and any other pulleys the belt goes around, including the water pump. You could also do the same with the auxiliary belt since that will be removed to do the timing belt. The anti freeze is probably a long life OAT type but at 10 years old it should be flushed out and replaced. One of the first things I do on a new to me car is check/clean the brakes. If it has an exhaust particulate filter it may need the eolys fluid topping up. The brake/clutch fluid should be changed every 2 years so it may be due for doing and if the previous owner did not provide any record of when it was last done then this is a must - we recently had a C5 owner whose brakes failed going downhill due to old fluid that had not been changed for a long time. When you opened the air filter did you remove it to check the other side which will be the dirty side, it is easy to take the lid off and seeing the filter nice and clean think it is ok. The pollen filter is often an annual replacement. The diesel fuel filters are often not replaced but should be done approx every 4 years/40k miles and if not done can lead to running problems. I would check if the new clutch also included a new dual mass flywheel since these are usually replaced at the same time since if worn they can lead to early failure of a new clutch.
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For future use, you can see the Citroen parts diagrams as a free service and use your VIN (VIS) to find your car and the parts on it, rather than relying on third parties or things you may see on-line. You need to register on service.citroen as an other professional non emergency services and as a member of the Citroen Owners Club http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres You may need to select your language first, then once on the diagrams use your VIN (VIS) top left to find your car. Look under Mechanical, Air and fuel supply, to find the various sensors. If you look under Characteristics it will give you info on your car. Any part numbers you find on parts are the manufacturers and not the Citroen ones, so if you did find any numbers on them they may not be of much use.
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Welcome to the forum. We sometimes get people asking on here for discontinued parts, could you give an idea of which cars they are for and year or if not too difficut, you could put a link on here to a list of them. I will pin this topic and edit the title to prevent it getting lost in the other posts. If you have any spare time, it would be appreciated if you can help out with people's problems on here.
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Bridge the pins on its wiring connector and see if the lock then works.
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The sensor is built in to the lock on many Citroens, so if this applies to your car you may need to replace the lock. You could also close the lock around a screwdriver to see if it is locking fully. Also check the wiring between the door and body in case there are any damaged/broken wires.
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It could be the door switch contacts are dirty. To test it, if you remove its electrical connector, bridge across the wiring connector pins with a bit of wire and if it is the switch the lock should work since all the switch does is earth the supply wire. If you have a meter you could also check the switch for electrical continuity whilst you have the connector removed.
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The economy mode comes in to stop the battery going flat if something is left on. It is a Citroen/Peugeot thing but should be a lot longer than a few minutes. I would check the battery voltage in case it needs replacing or possibly if the car has been at a dealer for some time it may just need the car using or charging a bit. Should be about 12.7 volts before starting and about 14.4 volts with the engine running.
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The glow plug tip if left inside the engine might have found its way out by now through the exhaust valves. If not though and if it is still in one piece, removal might need the cylinder head to be removed. I am not sure about the windscreen clip. If you look on the parts diagrams under Bodywork, Windscreen, Windshield and windscreen glass, they do not show any clips other than aluminium rivets (possibly part 697305) . You may need to visit a dealer to get the right part.
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The garage could have damaged the wiring for one of the front wheel abs sensors which are used in the esp/abs systems. To check you may need to remove the front wheels.
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Welcome to the forum. There are a few C8 owners on here who should be able to help out with advice if needed. At 10 years old it will be due for the timing belt replacing based on age rather than miles.
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Welcome to the forum. If it is the exclusive it will have the hydractive suspension and will glide along as opposed to a VTR which will have struts and coil springs. On the C5 technical section there is a pinned topic of Common Problems to have a look at, most are for the earlier C5 but the C5 (X7) apply to your car. Common ones include a leaking steering rack which needs a replacement rack to fix, front wiper motors seizing, front window winding mechanism breaking, odd electrical problems if the battery is due for replacement. At 8 years old it may be due for the air con regassing if it does not cool down much but that can apply to any car and does not cost much. If the Mazda was a diesel, I think they may have a reputation for early engine failures due to the oil diluting with diesel from regenerating the exhaust dpf.