paul.h

New glow plugs may help a bit on the first few minutes of starting the engine, especially when the weather gets cold again. With a charged battery, from our experience, economy mode ought to cut in about 15 to 30 minutes after stopping the engine. When in economy mode I think the electric windows will not work.

The C4 is a good car, we have had a 2008, a 2011 and now a 2015, all 1.6 hdi and had no bother with any of them.

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I do not know if this is any help in deciding if it will work on your car http://www.outilsobdfacile.com/vehicle-list-compatible-obd2/citroen

If the P0238 code comes back you could try cleaning the egr valve. In this topic it seemed to cure it http://www.citroenpicasso.org.uk/picasso/index.php/topic/22082-fault-codes-p0238-and-p1351-16-hdi/page-2

Do the side lights work, just thinking there may be a problem with the light switch. Does the head lamp height adjuster work ? The oldest handbook on the Citroen site is for a 2008 Relay and in this it has separate fuses for the right and left dipped headlights (as well as for the main beams) in the passenger side fascia panel fusebox: Fuse 12, 7.5 amp Right-hand dipped headlamp Fuse 13, 7.5 amp Left-hand dipped headlamp - Headlamp height adjuster

What year is your car, is it an auto gearbox, do you have cruise control ? Have you checked the bulbs have not failed and if any fuses are ok. Also on the C4 the wiring between the body and tailgate in the rubber pipe is a common failure that needs checking. Do all the other lights work and the rear wiper ? From the Hayne manual for the 2004 to 2010 C4, the switch is located on the brake pedal crossover shaft in the passenger footwell. The auto and cruise cars have 2 switches. The switch is removed by unplugging the connector and then twisting it 90° anti clockwise. To refit, check the red locking latch is in line with the locating lug on the side of the switch, fit it back in the bracket and turn 90° clockwise, fit the connector, check the switch plunger is up against the brake pedal lever bracket.

I think coastline is saying he would not spray anything in the turbo and that if the spray is flammable then it will act as a fuel and burn in the engine with the diesel. This extra fuel could cause the engine speed to increase whilst it is being sprayed in. Wynn's instructions for this mention this http://www.wynns.eu/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/28679_Turbo-Cleaner_EN.pdf and they have a video showing it being used but I would not put my fingers near the turbo inlet as shown and it also shows them using protective clothing http://www.wynns.eu/product/turbo-cleaner/ . There is also a material safety data sheet http://www.wynns.eu/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/W28679-Turbo-Cleaner-Aerosol-E01.01-EN.pdf The doser valves blue and green are after the turbo so anything you did there would not go to the turbo but straight in to the engine. If you remove the red hose then you would see the turbo impeller on the air inlet and you may see that it is clean. The turbo might be a variable vane type and if you can move the actuator you may be able to check if these are sticking. To see the exhaust side of the turbo will probably need a bit more dismantling. I would suspect anything you spray in to clean the turbo would need to be just after the air filter but before the mass air flow (MAF) meter since if you remove any hoses after the MAF then the engine would not run properly giving a fault code and limp mode - however, Wynn's instructions clearly show the turbo inlet hose removed to spray the foam in to it but do not mention any engine management problems and then possibly the foam could damage a MAF.

If it is still the 2.0 hdi 2004, then as well as the clutch there may be a dual mass flywheel which will need replacing or as a minimum checking to make sure it is not worn. However, a quick look on the eurocarparts site does not show a dmf for your car so maybe it does not have one. You could also check the cv joints are not worn in case it is not the clutch.

Does the cabin fan work ? If this is not running the air con will not work. Does the engine radiator fan work ? This will run when the air con is running. Next, if these work is the air conditioning not cooling down much, if at all ? Can you hear the air conditioning compressor clutch clicking in when the air con is switched on ? At the age of the car it is probable the refrigerant gas needs recharging since it gradually leaks out until there is not enough left and then the pressure is too low. There is a low pressure switch on the refrigerant that prevents the compressor working so it does not become damaged. I had to have the refrigerant recharged on our 2004 C5 when it was about 7 years old and also on our 2007 C5 when that was also about 7 years old. On these the air con worked but not well enough to cool both sides of the car. This is from the C5 Common Problems topic: ----------------------------------------------- 10. The air conditioning only gives cold air at one side or does not cool much. The evaporator matrix cooling the air on the C5 is long and if the amount of refrigerant is low then there will not be enough to cool all the matrix for both sides of the cabin. First step should be a regass then if that does not work and there are no leaks then look at replacing the air flap control motors. A regass may be about £50, a flap new motor about £60. It could also be damage to the air flap shaft motor fitting - see this post http://www.citroen-o...c5-2002-aircon/ . I had to have both C5s regassed when about 7 years old, on the second one there was a printout that showed there was only 93 g of refrigerant left and that 525 g were put back in yet the air con was working and gas could be heard going through the pressure control valve but the air was not cooling much. Also have a look at this topic for a possible fix to a broken heater flap connection http://www.citroen-o...or-air-bag-ecu/ Have a look at this topic for alternative ways to fix the broken flap connection by extending the motor spindle using one from another motor or buying a motor already with an extended spindle http://www.citroen-o...ulation-aircon/ Have a look at this topic for a case where a new comms 2000 unit fixed the manual air con not working http://www.citroen-o...-manual-aircon/ In the May 2015 Car Mechanics magazine there is an excellent article by Rob Marshall where he dismantles a 2004 to 2008 C5 heating system with climate control to replace broken heater flaps (the shaft on one had broken completely and the other was breaking). This involves removing the dash and then the heater unit from the car and then fitting new flaps from a dealer (6480E3 for dual zone and 6480E4 for mono system, both £58.53). There are 63 photos showing all the steps.

There is some very basic info here on injector cleaning but I would imagine it is not as simple as suggested http://www.ebay.co.uk/gds/How-to-Refurbish-a-Diesel-Injector-/10000000177770568/g.html

Just remembered that if the battery is low the stop/start is prevented from working, so another reason for the battery to be checked but you would think the Citroen dealer would have done this before deciding the alternator needed replacing.

Only 2-3 minutes before economy mode kicks in is a sign of a battery that is not charged. On our C4 it is a lot longer than that, more than enough for a motorway lunch stop with the radio on and the engine switched off. If you have a volt meter check the battery voltage, should be about 12.7 volts before the engine is started.

Citroen sell the cushion with the cover on it so I do not know if the foam cushion is separate to the cover. There will be slots in the cover for the seat belt which will be on one side but if the cover can be removed from the foam then possibly a passenger one can be used. To get a new one you will need to use your VIN since there are many different ones depending on the colour/material.

I think the alternator may start the engine when in stop/start mode so is not an ordinary one and is expensive. You could check the battery voltage to see if it is still charging the battery, if it is and the voltage is low then possibly the battery may be due for replacement as well unless you are only doing short trips. The stop/start may be a good idea to reduce emisions in towns but it can be at a high maintenance cost which wipes out any possible fuel cost savings, just as well it failed when under warranty since it may be in the high £100s to replace. Similarly the battery is a special one that seems to be a few £100. I do not know if it will affect the exhaust particulate filter either. Our C4 has stop/start and I am reluctant to use it since I do not think it will do the car any good long term. I have edited your profile to add your car details to save you mentioning it every time in a new topic.

The parts diagrams are a free service if you register on service.citroen as an other professional non emergency services and as a member of the Citroen Owners Club http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres You may need to select your language first. Once on the site use your car VIN (VIS) top left to find your car. You can look under the left column Characteristics for specific details of your car. The heating system and pollen filter comes under the left column Electric section and then heating and then something like air puller. You can also pay for other services such as workshop procedures but I have not done this and if you need the Citroen workshop manual it is probably better to buy the Citroen service box 3 dvds through such as ebay, but make sure you get an up to date copy so it covers your car.

This is Citroen's procedure for a 2.0 petrol 138 bhp manual gearbox: 2. RemovalPlace the vehicle on a 2 column lift.Drain manual gearboxes only.Remove the wheels. Fit the tool [0606-AY / 6310-T] which is like a long bar that bolts to the wheel hub to hold to stop it turning as the hub nut is undone.CAUTION : Never brake to loosen transmission nut because this is likely to shear the screws fastening the brake disc.Take down :The hub nut pin (1)The hub nut steel cage (2)The drive shaft hub nutRemove the tool [0606-AY / 6310-T] Unclip :The wheel sensor harness (at "b") ; Move aside the harnessThe brake wear warning lamp harness (at "a") ; Move aside the harnessTake down :The steering track rod ball joint nut (4)The strut lower nuts (7)The brake hose to strut bolt (6)Move aside the brake hose (3).Uncouple the steering ball joint .Remove strut lower bolts (5). 2.1. Right hand drive shaft Loosen bearing thrust plate bolts (8).Tilt the bearing thrust plate (9). 2.2. Removal (continued)Move the strut towards the outside.Detach the drive shaft from the hub.Remove the drive shaft. 3. RefittingCAUTION : Observe the tightening torque values. Tightening torques : hub nut 345 Nm, drive shaft bearing 20 Nm.CAUTION : Always fit new Nylstop nuts.Check :The absence of play in the driveshaft jointsThe condition of the gaitersThe condition of the bush bearingOverhaul the driveshafts (if necessary). Always replace the ring seals ; Using tools [0332-B] / [0317-U] / [0346-S] and [0332-A] / [0317-T] / [0346-R].Apply grease to the space between the oil seal lips.Grease the outer cage of the right-hand driveshaft bearing.CAUTION : Take care not to damage the gearbox output shaft seal lips when replacing the drive shafts. Reinstall the driveshaft.3.1. Right hand drive shaftRelocate : The bearing thrust plate (9).Retighten screws (8).3.2. Refitting (continued)CAUTION : Always fit new Nylstop nuts.Reposition : The suspension unit.Fit :The screws (5)The nuts (7)Couple up the steering ball-joint.Put the brake hose (3) in place.Fit :The bolt (6)The nut (4)The brake wear warning lamp harness (at "a")The wheel sensor harness (at "b")Fit :The tool [0606-AY / 6310-T]The drive shaft nutThe steel cage (2)The pin 1Remove the tool [0606-AY / 6310-T].Fit the wheels. Tighten the wheel bolts 4. Refilling : GearboxThe gearboxes are lubricated for life (Without routine inspection).After the gearbox has been drained, it is filled by means of a breather on top of the gearbox.Grades of oil used : TOTAL LUNARIA S, ELFRIMA, TEXACO CAPELLA, CASTROL ICEMATIC 299, SHELL CLAVUS OIL, MOBIL GARGOYLE ARCTIC 300 : ESSO 75W80 EZL 848 or TOTAL 75W80 H 6965.Oil capacity of the ML6C gearbox : 2,6 litres.Oil capacity of the BE4 gearbox : 1,9 litres.Oil capacity of the ML5C gearbox : 2,1 litres.N.B. : If topping up is required this is carried out by draining the gearbox and filling it with the correct quantity of oil for its capacity.

I have looked at our 2015 C4 and the parts diagrams and it looks as if the pollen filter is in the same place but to get to it if you look below the sound proofing that was previously removed and there looks to be a plastic cover on the bulkhead. So maybe the soundproofing no longer needs to be removed - but I did not remove anything so I am not sure. Let us know how you get on.

In the Haynes manual for the 2001 to 2008 C5 under drive shaft removal for the right hand one (your N/S) page 8.2 section 7, it gives that the nuts may first need removing and then the bolts turning 90° before they can be removed.

Welcome to the forum. In your signature I have put your car details but if you want to add to this by editing your profile with the model (exclusive ?) and engine it helps if you post and need any help.

If there is a problem with one of the 4 fuel injectors you might get a fault code but I am not sure.

We had a 2003 C3 that had the front coil springs replaced free by Citroen when one snapped. After there was a noise which was a strut top bearing that was damaged during the spring change but went through the MOT. A year later I also replaced the front drop links which were an advisory at the MOT and one was knocking. You could also check the anti roll bar mountings, these usually have a rubber insert which might have perished. If you could get somebody to bounce the car you might be able to detect the noise/any play by touch.

If it is the flywheel and it needs changing then it could be £500 to £700 from what I have read on here. The clutch would be done at the same time. Probably for now you are best ignoring the problem unless anyone advises differently.

I did a google search for some possible problems and they gave things such as the crankshaft pulley could be worn (some have a rubber insert that perishes), the clutch dmf could be worn, maybe a fuel injector fault, a worn engine mounting and there may be more. Of these the pulley one would be a relatively low cost one and may be part no. 0515T3 or 0515V8. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-XSARA-Belt-Pulley-Crankshaft-DP0682-BGA-0515T3-0515-T3-515-T3-New-/231743998889 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-Crankshaft-Pulley-TVD1025-Belt-Gates-0515P8-0515R0-0515T0-0515V7-0515V8-/331757493465

I do not know if there is a fix but Citroen's procedure for removing the vents is: - unclip the speedo surround trim by unclipping top and bottom of the outer dials - unclip the gear lever gaiter - unclip and pull back to remove the centre console surround around the gear lever and radio - unclip and detach the fascia trim panel that has the central vents and undo the switch connectors - I am not sure if the vents are still fastened to the fascia trim panel when it is removed or they may need unclipping