paul.h

From the Citroen parts diagrams the part no. for a new Garrett turbo is 0375E6 and an exchange turbo 0375E7. I would try these on ebay but you should check the part no. using your VIN.

I have put your car details from a previous topic as your signature since it helps to know this when trying to reply since not all cars are the same. This is from the Citroen service box for the DW12TED4 engine (not bi turbo) which you can get on 3 dvds to put on your pc through ebay, but without the pictures since these do not copy: 1. RemovingDisconnect the battery.Remove the shield under the engine .Remove :The front RH driveshaft (see the relevant operation)The catalytic converter /particle emission filter assemblyThe turbocharger outlet supply duct (1) Remove the turbocharger lower support ( 2).Uncouple :The upstream exhaust gas temperature sensorThe turbocharger lubrication supply pipe ( 3) (on cylinder block)The turbocharger lubrication return pipe (4) Remove the turbocharger air supply duct fixing screw ( 5).Move aside the turbocharger inlet air supply duct union ( 7).Remove the turbocharger fixing nuts on the manifold flange ( 6). Remove the turbocharger .2. RefittingESSENTIAL : Check the absence of foreign bodies in the inlet circuit.Tighten the studs on the manifold to 10 Nm.ESSENTIAL : Systematically replace the nuts ( 6).Refit :The turbocharger (8)The bolts (9) (if changing the turbocharger)The turbocharger lubrication piping sealsTighten the turbocharger lubrication supply pipe union ( 3) on the cylinder block to 45 Nm.Tighten (if changing the turbocharger) :The screws (9) at 12 NmThe lubrication supply pipe union on the turbocharger to 22 NmFit the union ( 4).Fit the turbocharger lower support ( 2).Do up the screws by hand.Tightening torques :Nuts ( 6) to 25 NmThe turbocharger lower support screw on the cylinder block to 25 NmThe lower support fixing on the turbocharger to 30 NmReplace the front right transmission (see the relevant operation).Refit the catalytic converter and particle filter assembly.Continue the fitting operations in the reverse order to removal.

There is a picture here of what to expect if the wires are damaged https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=citroen+c4+tailgate+wiring+loom&espv=2&biw=1172&bih=879&tbm=isch&imgil=RAJVnuKW7LwetM%253A%253BCkYWjz40oTiCxM%253Bhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.youtube.com%25252Fwatch%25253Fv%2525253D62rheHBvD4U&source=iu&pf=m&fir=RAJVnuKW7LwetM%253A%252CCkYWjz40oTiCxM%252C_&usg=__yqK0FT_fF-zVhSNMuxqwPl6cU1Y%3D&dpr=1&ved=0ahUKEwj_zruJz6zMAhULIMAKHWDzDVMQyjcIUg&ei=EIkfV_-GGovAgAbg5reYBQ#imgrc=RAJVnuKW7LwetM%3A There was a recall of the C4 some time ago on this wiring so something you could check at a dealer.

Possibly the clutch master and slave cylinders need bleeding if the pedal is not lifting smoothly. The fluid should be replaced anyway every 2 years at the same time as the brake fluid is changed. Also if the revs can not be gradually increased as the accelerator pedal is pushed down then possibly the pedal needs replacing due to wear in the electrics.

An internet check will come up with lots of topics on dmf failures and this is a good one http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/160805-dual-mass-flywheels-dmf/ On a recent C3 topic on juddering caused by a cv joint, when the car was jacked up and the wheel turned, the drive shaft was seen not to be rotating central in the wheel hub. A usual cv joint wear check is to run the car in a circle left and then right and listen for knocking.

Open the tailgate and pull back the rubber bellows at the top left between the door and body to check the wiring.

If the 2008 on model it has been reported it can suffer from tyre noise, especially on the lower profile tyres, so if you could use the Uniroyals then it might increase the noise level.

Have a look at the service interval for the dpf in the Warranty and Maintenance guide but at 8 years old it could be at the mileage for the dpf to be replaced or at least removed and cleaned.

Over the Citroens we have owned it has to be the good reliability.

I used to put Castrol Magnatec 5w/30 A1 full synthetic in our C3. If you check the car Warranty and Maintenance book it will give you the oil type to use but I think you may find 10w/40 is not one of them. Make sure it is full synthetic since with a service interval of 2 years or 20k miles if sooner it needs a good oil. I also found between services the oil still looked clean and did not go black as with most other cars I have owned.

If you have halogen headlights, this may be the part you need, I am not suggesting you use this supplier but it just has a good photo on the ad http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-C5-08-ACTIONNEUR-MOTEUR-REGLAGE-DE-PHARE-93161736-8200402521-6224S7-/171691471564 . You still need to check the part no. against your VIN but it may be 6224S7. First I would check the electrical connector and its wiring. To r place this part the headlight does not need removing, it is accessed from behind/on top of the light with a bit of wiggling about to unclip it.

Could be a drive shaft cv joint needs replacing. If there are any noises you could also suspect the dual mass flywheel.

This is likely to be damaged wiring between the body and tailgate, common on the C4.

Welcome to the forum. I would not go back there again, you have been told a lot of rubbish and if they think you can be lied to like this then what else would they do. If you need the suspension checking then I would use a Citroen dealer and not a fast fit type of place so that it should be done correctly. Where on the car are the tyres - front or back, is left when sat in the car looking forward, what make are they and how many miles have they done ? Also do you keep the tyre pressures correct and what is your driving style and are there many roundabouts where you go ? Is the servicing of the brakes up to date so they are not sticking ?

The C4 is known for the wiring to break between the body and tailgate so have a look with the tailgate fully open and at the top in the rubber bellows.

There is one on the front and one on the back, about in the middle on each anti roll bar. Do not go under the car without the body being held on axle stands since if you touch one of these sensors the car can quickly drop to a very low level, quicker than you can get from under the car. Adjustment is in 2 parts, first to get the height about right by altering the sensor position and then the final adjustment of up to 10 mm needs a Citroen diagnostic. There is a pinned topic on checking the height. Possibly when the sensor was last replaced the height was not set correctly.

I think the type of eolys fluid has changed over the years even before adblue came along. The eolys was dosed in the fuel tank to burn off the ash in the dpf but the adblue is dosed in the exhaust to reduce nitrogen oxides.

We had a recent C3 topic similar to this and that was fixed by replacing the drive shaft complete with the cv joints with a used one.

If you do your own oil changes beware that the Haynes manual has the wrong amount (too much) of oil for the 1.4 petrol and there is a pinned topic in one of the C3 sections on here about it.

Welcome to the forum. If you are getting a new front strut then that seems about right. I had one replaced at a Citroen dealer 4 years ago and it was £442 including £338 for the strut and £32 for 2 litres of LDS fluid. When taking a C5 for the MOT it is normal to wipe the front struts since they can have a misting of oil on them that is normal but a garage not familiar with the C5 will fail it. If it is a rear strut then I had one replaced at a dealer 3 years ago for £244 including £143 for the cylinder, £13 for LDS fluid, £3 for the sphere seal and £1 for a new R clip. If I remember I will move this topic to the C5 section later.

On here gives P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction P0352 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction P0353 Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction P0354 Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction This link may give a few ideas on what to check such as a common 12 volt supply, earthing fault, maybe the ecu. http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/Bluegorilla/2009-07-24_162303_2005_vibe_p0351-4.pdf This is copied from another forum: http://c4owners.org/plugins/forum/attachment/1/1321373074_1_FT147533_p0350.png

Sounds as if the jerry can is just becoming a crude carburettor. These were replaced since they could not give the mixture control needed to give low exhaust emissions - or maybe the jerry can has special software in the ecu to fool the emissions tests. I would not be surprised if the cans occasionally explode since the vapours mixed with air must be in the flammable range and with the liquid splashing around there is bound to be a build up of static electricity.

If the clutch is hydraulic then it may help to bleed the master and slave cylinders, which should be done anyway when the brake fluid is changed. I had a drop link wear on a C3 and that rattled/knocked when going over bumps but it was easy and cheap enough to replace.

Is your car a 2004 to 2008 or a 2008 on model C5 ?

I am not sure how much is put in each time, maybe it uses the fuel level to adjust the amount but I do not know. You need to get the right fluid since there have been some changes over the years and they are not all compatible with each other. The eolys tank pipe connectors should have coloured rings on them that help determine which fluid is used.