paul.h

Welcome to the forum. How many miles has the car done and is the servicing and timing belt replacement up to date (belt 10 years or x miles if sooner) ? I am not sure if pumping the accelerator pedal will be of much help, not like in the old days on a petrol engine where this would squirt extra fuel in the carburettor venturi. You might try switching on the ignition so the dash lights up and leaving it a few more seconds before trying the starter and also check if it does it only first start of the day or every one. If you get a code reader with live data you could check the coolant and inlet temperatures to see if they are correct and the fuel pressure.

Welcome to the forum.

The Haynes manuals are always worth having if you do your own maintenance and even if not, it helps you understand what a garage will do/charge you for. £12 is a good price though. Was it easy enough to swap the engine ?

Citroen's procedures say to remove the engine undertray, the right front wheel, the right headlight and the engine mounting to help access but it may not be necessary to do all this. Then the alternator/pump belt tensioner pulley bolt is turned anti clockwise to release the tension and pegged with an 8mm rod so the belt can be removed. If you have air conditioning you should not need to touch its flexible belt unless you want to replace the water pump belt. There are 5 bolts holding the pump and its gasket on, 1 long one and 2 lots of 2 different ones. The 10mm bolts are done up 50 Nm and the 8 mm ones 25 Nm so may be tight to undo. A new gasket will be needed. I could not find the coolant capacity if you need to change it, maybe a dealer may tell you if you get the water pump and gasket from one. Note that the water pump removal procedure is part of the one for stripping the engine down and not just for pump renewal but I do not think the engine needs removing since the official time for pump replacement is nearly 2½ hours but engine replacement is 19 hours

Welcome to the forum. I guess your car is the 2008 on model since a leaking steering rack is a common fault on this one. If the electrical faults were not there before the steering rack was replaced, then maybe the garage doing the repairs caused the battery to go flat. A low battery voltage can give odd electrical problems and a check of its voltage should be made before anything else is replaced. Before starting the car it should be about 12.5 to 12.7 volts and once running about 14.4 volts. If the car is more than about 5 years old chances are it will need a new battery anyway, so buying a new one is unlikely to be a waste of money. If it has the electric tailgate it has been mentioned on here that a low battery voltage can stop it working. If the engine management light is on then there will be fault codes stored. If you have them it would help if you can post them on here but it is possible a low battery voltage could be a cause.

If unplugging the MAF sensor makes no difference then I would think that means it could be faulty since it may be in limp mode. A search suggests it could be the dpf temperature sensor that is faulty http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/407-41/fault-code-p2084-9428/index2.html for P2084. P2562 suggests it could be something to do with the turbo http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/?t=88917

Welcome to the forum. Does the engine light come on for a few seconds as the engine is started to show that the bulb is working ? You might need to have a diagnostic check but you could look to see if there are any air leaks on the air inlet or if any hoses have come off from actuators. Also check to see when the fuel filter was last replaced - off hand I do not know how often it should be done but could be every 2 or 4 years and 20 to 40k miles. Similarly the engine air filter. The air flow meter could need a clean with something like a spray carburettor cleaner or it may need replacing but if bad it would most likely give a fault code and the engine light would come on - you could do a quick check to see if the performance changes by unplugging it, the car will go in to limp mode and the engine light should come on but if the performance gets worse then it likely is not faulty.

Welcome to the forum. If the brake squealing noise went when the pads/discs were replaced in November 2014 but it came back again in November 2015, then probably the brakes now need cleaning since the brake dust that builds up can cause the pads to seize in the calipers. The brakes should be cleaned every year or so depending on how many miles are covered each year. A service interval is not often given in the Maintenance and Warranty guides supplied by Citroen but if there was a Haynes manual it would say to clean them every 12 months as well as checking for wear. If the clutch is hydraulically actuated then when the brake fluid is replaced every 2 years it should also be replaced in the clutch master and slave cylinders. So you could try bleeding the clutch cylinders since there could be a build up of dirt in them that is causing a piston in one to stick. It is also possible the return springs in the slave and master cylinders have worn and broken or maybe one of these cylinders has a worn seal and is leaking internally or externally.

Welcome to the forum. A quick look at Citroen's service box procedures and parts diagrams does not come up with anything but relays are often built in to fuse boxes or near the battery. If you have the part no. post it on here since it will help with searching. If you find the relay please let us know where is is located.

When a garage gives a good service it helps other members if they are given a mention. In this case they have probably also learned something they will now check as part of their repairs so can offer an even better service.

It helps if you put the car details and mileage in your posts or you could edit your profile and put it in your signature. I have already put a bit in your signature from your previous topic but if you could add the engine info it will help. Anyway, on all C4s, the cabin pollen filter should be changed every year or 2 and if you look at the bulkhead where that matting is hanging off, the left hand end as you look from the front of the car hides the pollen filter. Simply remove the clips and pull off the mat and you should have access to the filter. The clips are not that good at holding the mat in place and it can get wet but probably nothing to worry about. Do you have the exact wording of the dash message since common ones for the exhaust particulate filter may be something like anti pollution fault, particulate filter blocked or risk of blockage and the engine management light coming on and fault codes being generated which need a code reader to read and delete. On the 1.6 hdi the exhaust particulate filter is at the front of the engine. There is a Haynes workshop manual for the C4 up to model year 2010. For the tailgate, I would have a look at the parts diagrams to see if anything is missing. This is a free service if you register as an other professional non emergency services and as a member of the Citroen Owners Club http://service.citroen.com/pages/index.jsp Once registered use your VIN (VIS) top left to find your car.

A quick look at the parts diagrams shows the injector rail includes the pressure sensor, part no. 1570E5 but this should be checked using your VIN. The pressure regulator is fastened to the pump and may be part no. 193329. So possibly the garage think the pressure sensor is at fault and not the regulator which could have been done by measuring the fuel pressure and comparing it with the value given by the sensor. The part 1920GW in your link is the fuel pressure sensor (not regulator) for the 70 bhp 1.4 hdi engine and would not fit the 90 bhp 1.4 hdi which uses 1570E5 noted above. You can see the parts diagrams as a free service and use your VIN (VIS) to find your car. Register on service.citroen as an other professional non emergency services and as a member of the Citroen Owners Club http://service.citroen.com/pages/index.jsp

The repair cost will depend on what needs doing and whether you are able to do the work yourself but if done by a garage: A crankshaft pulley will be £10s, a clutch/dmf £100s, an engine mounting £10s. You can get an idea of parts costs from the eurocarparts website but from a Citroen dealer they could be similar or a bit more.

Welcome to the forum. The price you have given will be very similar to a Citroen dealer so you may be better using a dealer which will give a 12 month guarantee on the work. The dealer will order the key/fob against your VIN and the key will not need cutting so it will not have any wear copied from your existing key. You could try something like wd40 sprayed in the lock to see if it helps clean/lubricate it. If you obtained a used fob it would not have the correct immobiliser chip for your car so may not start it.

If it is doing it when the car is not moving then you could add the crankshaft pulley to the things to check. Some of these have a rubber insert that perishes.

A fast worker with a hoist might do the pads/discs in an hour or so but it would take me all afternoon on our drive with all the cleaning up and checking the disc runout. Similarly the oil/filter change but depends on how long you want to leave the old oil draining out. Within the £75 there will be liability insurance and a guarantee to cover as well as disposal costs and the labour charge and other business costs. If he does not have liability insurance then what happens if something goes wrong - this stops me giving too much help on other peoples cars.

It is difficult trying to understand/make sense of something written without punctuation and possibly puts people off reading it. Hence I have tried to make it better and maybe there may be some replies. However, first - what is meant by squib ? A possible problem could be a rotary contact that lets the steering wheel turn without breaking the wires through the column.

Lighting faults are sometimes caused by poor earth connections. On Citroen's the lighting stalk could also be faulty but it is part of the comms 2000 unit under the steering wheel so replacement can be expensive.

Welcome to the forum. What year is the car and which engine size and is it a full automatic ? Juddering could be something mechanical and therefore it may not cause the engine management light to come on so you may be better off using a different dealer/garage. Possibilities could include: - a driveshaft/cv joint fault - clutch/dmf fault depending on whether your car is not a full automatic - a brake fault such as excess runout of discs or badly worn rear drums (if not rear discs) if it happens when braking

Welcome to the forum. I suspect many people would not have used the car after the noise started in case it made something worse and may have called the RAC/AA/etc. Did any warning lights come on ? Possible problems could be anything but could include - low oil level, - low oil pressure (does the oil light come on when the ignition is first turned on ?), - crankshaft pulley failure (some have a rubber insert that can perish and then it becomes noisy), - clutch failure, - crankshaft bearing failure, - gearbox bearing failure, - air leak on the engine inlet or exhaust, - fuel injector failure, - loose spark plug, - timing belt jumped a tooth.

Before you even start the job or buy any parts, ask your Citroen dealer service department since Citroen have replaced coil springs free of charge on many occasions. We had a front one fail on a 2003 C3 at about 5½ years old and a rear one on a 2010 C3 at just over 5 years old and in both cases they were replaced as an axle set (both sides so they were the same) with Citroen paying. The dealer will contact Citroen to see if Citroen will pay so all you need to do is visit the dealer. Citroen use coloured bands on the springs so you can check which ones are in place and to make sure you get the same ones to replace them, otherwise the suspension will not be the same (noted by Simple in his detailed post).

The pressure after the rack should be quite low unless there is a blockage in the pipework back to the oil reservoir. If so, this could increase the pressure in the low pressure side of the rack.

Welcome to the forum. On one of the C5 sections there is a pinned topic of people able to help others with diagnostics.

If the servo bolts (studs) are cut, will they still be long enough for the pedal bracket to fasten on or does it fasten to somewhere else ? Citroen's procedures have nothing about cutting the bolts (studs) on the servo, only gives: 1. RemovingRemove the air cleaner . Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the servo.Disconnect the wires from the brake fluid level indicator light.Unclip the brake pipes from the bodyshell .Remove the master cylinder mounting bolts .Detach the master cylinder from the servo.Remove the pedal bracket (see the relevant operation). Remove :The servo nutsThe brake servo2. RefittingProceed in the reverse order to removal. N.B. : Check the set back of the brake servo thrust rod.Thrust rod set back with reference to support face : 0,1 mm to 0,3 mm.Tighten the servo nuts to 20 Nm.

Welcome to the forum. I would try the new flasher relay before anything else since your checks suggest these are ok. I do not know where it is located so perhaps you will provide the info after you have replaced it and report back how you got on.