coastline taxis

havnt seen a bent valve on a 8 valve engine yet. what happens is that the hydraulic lifter arms snap and saves the valve. sounds bad but its not its very easy to do and dosnt need the cylinder head off. And to be honest if your car drove home ok after the belt went then the valves and timing are ok. the trouble you have is people are scared of citroens.

I really really cant see you wanting a pump. but if you phone up europarts and speak to them weve had 3 or 4 pumps of them theres 2 versions and yours is the cheaper one at $200 the other one is for a 16 valve engine. In order to say its a pump the youd be looking for the management light to be on then when plugged in youd should be getting a low rail pressure fault code. If a c5 dosnt have a fully charged battery then youl get all kinds of ghost fault codes. Your way forward with this is to check the timing then fully charge the battery and see if it will start

where abouts are you

where are you at then is it far from newcastle

Sounds to me like they havent got a clue what there doing. Done hundreds of snapped belts well they shred then snap and the bits of belt get everywhere. tell the garage to look between the pulley and the body of the power steering pump there they will find bits of old belt. remove them and itl free off and probally be fine. iits the tensioner that needs replacing None starting Firstly the pump is NOT coded in fact its not even timed to the engine its just a pump thats all and europarts do them new for £200, the problem you have is that bits of the fanbelt mite have getting caught in the timming belt. i have seen this a quite a few times, So print this of and give it to them heres what they have to do 1 remove the timing covers and make a visual inspection for bits of fan belt and remove any found if none there thats a good sign. 2 using timing pins check the timing (crank pin goes into hole behind the starter motor and the camshaft mark is the hole in the cam pulley into the hole in the head. 3 If they all line up then thats good new if not then its not that bad as youl will of just snapped 1 or 2 lifters. 4 Assuming they all line up then replace the covers and the tensioner and belt give the battery a good charge and i would be very surprised if your car dosnt fire straight up. If the timing marks dont line up then let is no and il post how to change the lifters. theres nothing hard or awkward and quite a easy job to do. I have never know a high pressure pump to sieze it just dosnt happen and unless theyve removed the timing belt it would be impossible to tell as the timing belt would stop you from spinning it with your hand. Also a repair bill of 2 grand how. lets say you replace all the parts suggested it should be as follows 1 x high pressure pump £200 (europarts) 1 x tensioner £36 ( discout autoparts) ! x timing kit £60 ( duscout autoparts and there gates belts) you need timing belt changed when replacing pump 1 x water pump £30 ( discount autoparts) 1 x fan belt £13 ( disount autoparts) 1 x gallon antifreeze and thread lock £20 ( discount autoparts) 1 x power steering pmp £25 ( scrapyard) So total for parts is £375 then labour of 4 to 5 hours at say £50 a hour comes to £625

hi Have sent you a pm

go on the internet and download a program called ecusafe

do a search and youl see a post on how to change these bulbs

firstly due to the fact the people will sue you for every penny you have im advising people not to do this in fact im telling you to buy a new caliper. But if you want to have a go at unsiezing yours then il tell you how we do ours. Often thought that its impossible for the inside of a caliper to sieze as brake fluid is a lubricant so it has to be a external componet that seizes. weve got a pile of about 15 calipers that have come of a car coz there seized (keeping them to way in for beer tokens). so we grabbed 2 of them and decided to have a look The main cause of them seizing is the handrake lever and very simple to put right 1 take a photo of thr spring and lever in situ 2 remove the spring very easy to do and very little tension 3 wire brush the lever very hard and thorough 4 remove the torx screw holding the lever to the caliper 5 Weve had to hammer and pry the handbrake lever off and it does come of 6 with handbrake lever removed thoroughly wire brush the caliper were the lever sits and also the reverse side of the lever 7 wire brush or sand the whole lot again then brush copper slip onto it 8 reattacch the lever and spring and cover in more copper slip (use your photo if your not sure were the lever goes) We got 7 of them working again seized piston 1 remove the brake pads and swing the caliper away from the disc 2 pump the brake peddle on some of them we had to hit the piston with a hammer to help it 3 it will come out just keep pumping and hitting 4 once its popped out remove the rubber sealing band on the piston . youl see how clean it is inside the caliper 5 emery cloth the piston and replace the sealing rubber after coating it in vaseline 6 remove the dust cover if its still there if its not then dont worry 7 if you look into the caliper youl see a threaded bar just screw the piston onto this) check to see if its left or right thread) 8 if youve got the dust cover put it back on if not then copper slip were the piston meats the caliper This sorted another 5 calipers out the other 3 we had to do both of the above to get working. we have since put all these caliper back onto cars free of charge and they have worked and passed mot,s and taxi tests. we now clean the whole caliper and spray with wheel silver and they look and work ok. Remember i advise against this as i dont want to be sued

well all ours pulled in today and marked up. Cant understand citroens thinking behind this. Understand the green as that means earth but why o why have a black cover on a live terminal. mind been doing citroens both here and in holland for over 20 years now and have never given it a thought until yeasterday

weve encountered this on a few ocasssions normally going up or down a local hill. when it happens most seem to have a quarter tank or under. we think ( just think mind) thats it down to the quantity of fuel in the tank because when there full they dont do it on the same hill. Years ago a tank had a swirl pot built into it now the intank pumps have them built into the housing. if you ever take one out youl see that to keep the pump lubricated and running then by what weve seen it needs more thatn quarter of a tank or youl start and suck air into the pump which will allow the engine to idle but not rev. then the car goes onto flat ground and fuel restored and power back to normal.. cant prove none of this other than it dosnt happen with a full tank

had car in today that had been jump started and let of a big bang and stopped. turns out that the car battery was dead this morning so he got his mate to give him a jump start. they connected the leads up and instantly saw sparks and smelt burning of both cars. turns out the leads had been put on the wrong way. during talking to the owner he sort of made a valid point 6.30 am its cold and dark outside and battery flat removed battery cover to reveal a green and a black terminal. and to most of the world black is negative. but on a c5 black is live so the negative lead went to the live terminal and as they say the rest is history. how to fix paint a red cross on the terminal or mark it anyway you can or right it on the battery cover so everyone can see it. the car has went on to make a full recovery after replacing a couple of main fuses

have gettuing a few of these. think new members are having trouble getting onto site Private message Posts: 12 Joined: Mon May 28, 2012 9:27 am Location: Thornley Citroen owners club Delete message Report private message Quote message http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/styles/we_universal/imageset/icon_post_target.gifWed Jun 27, 2012 11:45 am From: iwoo55 To: coastline taxis I have joined theh COC forum nut the approval thing has not gone through, I am unable to post, contact admin etc, just wondering if you could help? I have a 2002 C5 HDI 110 2002 C5 2.0 110 HDI Manual Estate with 135,000 on the clock

after to many john smiths in the pub i ended up buying a nissan primera ( still trying to figure out why). Anyway it a 55 plate and got reversing cameraa,cruise control,6 stack cd player,dvd thing under sear,cental locking, 4 x elec windows and loads of other toys. Its got 150k on it but weve just put another engine in it(37k on it). taxed till march next year will check on mot but will probally just put 12 months on it. Anyone wanting to swap for a c5

Going to post a guide on how we unsieze a caliper. tried it on a few of them now and it seems to work out ok. will try and get it posted for the weekend

Hi is your management light on if so what symptom have you got. If not have you plugged it in and just found these codes sitting there

sent you a pm dave

Your right about the spam loosing people. Just for future reference 9 times out of 10 ive always got a c5 that im breaking so if you ever need anything just drop a line

guess all the c5s in the world must be running fine or all the common faults have been listed so people dont have to ask anymore they just search.

theres a silver 02 c5 60k on the clock £510 and less than 2 days to go. thats the kind of donor car youl be wanting

if your going down that route youd just aswell to put a diesel lump in it. youl get a runner of ebay with everything you need on the donor car. just had a look and theres loads on there starting at 300. then youl get a few quid back for scrapping it. labour for the job should be 5 to 6 hundred. If you decide to just convert your box over then youl need the parts that gman stated also possibly the driveshafts aswell. i wouldnt worry about the software side as the autobox has its own ecu so i would start by simply unpluging it and see what happens. If that dosnt work then its just a case of going into the ecu and telling it that its no longer a auto

Very easy if youve got a lexia. If no lexia still very easy only difference is youl end up covered in lds fluid 1 remove plastic cover on offside of engine bay 2 remove pump multi plug 3 with lexia depresurize the system and remove pipes 4 without lexia remove pipes and get covered in lds fluid 5 unbolt pump and throuw away 6 put new pump on and do the above in reverse order 7 top up lds fluid and raise and lower suspension a few times. the system is self bleeding so just play with the hydraulic button and itl be fine. should take no more than a hour. only hard bit is the price of the lds fluid

if you look on the internet for PIN DATA for a c5 it will show you wich wire in the pump multi plug corosponds with the same wire in the ecu multi plug that way you can start checking the wiring for shorts. Or unplug the muti plug on the suspension pump and see if the fuse still blows

had the car been jacked up when the suspension pump died. if so did you pt suspension on full befor jacking it up

You might of blown the fuse when you shorted it out. and jump starting it wont hurt it at all But youl get absolutley no where till you replace the fuse 1st