techbod

OBD = on-board diagnostics and OBD1/II/III/CAN are derivatives of it as things improve supposedly

its a long story and all down to the manufacturer holding all the pulls for business reasons, ill go back a long while when cars didn't have the electronics of today and everything was mechanical ( no computers ) then obd came in and thanks to the Canadians and emissions laws came in then the manufacturer used it to make you pay because they owned the tools to diagnose faults and you didn't. basically people have now become smarter and now we have control and you can learn and buy cheap diagnostic tools to cut the dealers out which = cash in your pocket and the dealers sell cars which is what they are supposed to do :rolleyes:

not sure if that much has changed but 2008 is totally different due to CAN ( control area network ) which is now law and its fully implemented whereas the EOBD+CAN would be your car

your right of course I don't own one and ive tried to get information through googling but not much on there and other Citroen sites and through Citroen direct but still no information or images I could put up to help so it would be good if you took pictures of your work to help others and for me to understand how this new system works :rolleyes: if I had a car for every time I fixed one or gave advice I would have many ( im not a citroen tech im a tech for all cars ) and help many sites on the net

hmmm interesting? obviously is fuel pressure related or the lack of it which could be fuel is being cut off and you should get those codes so you need to look at the fuel feed and that's the fuel pump, lift pump in the fuel tank, wiring to any fuel feed items loosing power due to poor connection live or earth. problem with a bad earth is when it over heats it becomes live and burns then you loose continuity this is often seen on the battery earth when the wire is aged so looses stability and engine cuts out and as you have replaced all the main parts except the lift pump and if that was sticking/ loosing power it would shut the fuel off, other not so obvious things are the fuel cap seal and tank vent and they could throw an emissions fault because they are linked to the EVAP system and not so easy to explain but hopefully some of the things Ive mentioned could assist on things you might have missed, the codes your getting are not so important as they are only doing what they should because of fuel cut off issue so no components are at fault

if the hazards work then the relay is ok the problem could be bad earths on the indicator or the indicator stalk also check the connections on the indicators to see if they have rust/water on them which would give a poor connection with the bad weather we have had it seems to be causing issues with car electrics

not a good electrician if he cant find that out :lol: do the hazards work ok? if not change the relay as that's the main feed for the indicators, cant figure out why the head lights would come on though unless the is a short in the wiring or a poor earth on the lights

they should have a clip on the ends then they just pry off like a ball and socket fitment unless they bolt in but shouldn't need to take the door of just get at the bolts and prop the door up with a broom handle

cant understand how they don't know of the new loom that was from Citroen/PSA group I got the information from :lol: but as you say there is no short cut and I would rip out and replace to save time and stress

I was thinking the same but I really do enjoy it and much better than getting under the bonnet and getting dirty :lol:

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...6GB297%26sa%3DX a little bit more info

what I'm seeing here is the fuel is being cut off at certain revs which leads me back to that wire you found a short in ( think of a wire that gets hot because when its hot enough it looses continuity ) the shield round the wire melts so the wire could be burned further down and the same problem is there and that's why the made an upgrade loom to overcome this problem, its all down to modern cars when they changed the thickness of the wire to save on cost/weight for so called fuel consumption but the problem they created was you get blips of over speaking with too much power the older cars have much thicker wire so don't suffer this problem so much unless excessive power amps are used without fitting relays to control the power, basically you need to strip the old wires out and replace them or fit the new loom and see if that sorts it it has to be something in that area because you have results on your work then it reappears and that tell me its an overheating wire. just an idea I have :lol:

if im teching then its worth my while being here :) which makes me feel better so ill stick around for a while longer but a little less than I have been ( I have a few things to do myself ) :lol:

aussie frogs great site, french cars also good and this site is good lot of very good techs on them and here of course, anything personal l help with can be posted to techbod@live.com im taking some time out of fixing cars :lol:

im not here to be better than thy " I am " but old tech at least Ive learned a lot and know what im talking about as I can relate, im no master but I understating the basics of engine and electronics ( that's not bragging ) im no fool I vent the future because im learning and very quick and learn fast ( you don't need to be a master tech to do that ) in my time computers were not in existence so you young trots have been spoiled but ive learned both sides and have the advantage :lol:

to brag is to gain providence over, to get retired is an age thing so no competition the younger get good at computers and don't know anything about old tech so when its all new cars then im redundant but while technologies converse im still good and as im a learner I have a head start :lol:

late answer but chances are its the drivers door where the problem is as that's the main part of the central locking check the servo see if its working then see that all the rods to the lock as still connected

not quite? as you found the problem and I still think is that part of the wiring breaking down, you found only 1 bad part so the wiring could be damaged in other places due to it shorting and that could burn the wiring further back and weaken it so when you drive for a while it overheats then it shorts out so it might be worth changing or at least check that part of the loom :lol:

its fairly common for this to happen when the wheel is of the floor and ignition turned on then you press the break to close the gap on the pads the ABS ECU see it as a fault and logs a code but most time it resets when driven a few miles ( your didn't ) very strange or there might have been some dirt on the sensor head and it cleared then the code should have reset, its not like the engine ECU and doesn't store codes but if something is wrong the codes can be extracted with the right tools and when the issue is fixed then the code should clear its self but in some cases it needs to be reset and that's more the newer cars like the C5/6

oh I believe you and no I don't know everything and still learning but I'm an apprentice served mechanic and now im really into diagnostics for the last 10 years and trouble shooting is my 4T but now im retired I offer my experiance for free, never do I brag what I know and I know a lot :lol:

bulling indeed :lol: nothing wrong with eBay I use it a lot its much cheaper than the dealers as ive said many times so where do you get the bulling from? my aim is to tell you how to repair things not to point you to where to buy things unless its nessicery then I would tell where the cheapest place would be helping is what these sites are for

sounds good but not real the MAF dosent work like that

yes this was a noted issue because it alters the timing like the vtec engine so the cam sensor gets incorrect information as to TDC so throws the engine out of sync ( my alfa did that )

actualLy im hearing a lot of this lately but as for the rattle the injector could cause the engine to be unstable so hopefully its sorts its self out :D

ive had 3 clutches fitted to one of my cars and never had to change the flywheel so its up to you if you want it fitted but ask for proof that its bad or ask an independent to check their findings like trading standards check this out for the price of the clutch then tell me where £650 for parts come to? http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trk...-All-Categories I mean :D how much does a flywheel cost and it wont be £500 that much I can tell you ebay prices http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Citroen-C5-1-6-HDi-D...A1%7C240%3A1318 I couldn't find one for the C8 but they are the same as they use the same engine